LATHE RESTORATION
by John
I have been busy with selling farm equipment in my spare time lately and have only been in the workshop to get stuff ready for sale. New starter motor and starting solenoid on the mower, for example, took a lot of time to identify the problems, source spare parts and then fit them. Another story.
So to find some material to post I decided to show some pics of a lathe restoration I did several years ago. Actually, it was two lathes, both Smart and Brown, almost identical except that one was single phase and the other was 3 phase. They had been imported from UK by the seller, a second hand dealer, and sitting in his back yard, uncovered, for 5 years. There was quite a lot of extra stuff, such as 6 cross slides, a capstan tool changer, 2 complete sets of collets, several tail stocks, several 3 and 4 jaw chucks, and all of this was interchangeable between the 2 lathes. No lead screws, but 100mm of travel on the cross slide longitudinally. I think that these lathes are termed “2nd process” or something similar. They date from the 1940’s-50’s. The shape of the base, cupboard, and headstock really appealed to me, so I decided to try to salvage them.
Amazingly, after I cleaned up the slides and beds, they were in excellent condition. Whatever they had been coated with was incredibly effective. There was minimal surface rust and no pitting at all.
The following photos are mainly the single phase machine. Both machines looked fantastic after repainting. At some stage I will have to sell both machines, because I have totally run out of space in my workshop. I just really like the design and appearance of these lathes, and although I do not use them often, they are lovely to look at. My architect wife appreciates the designs and says that whoever designed them was as concerned about form as much as function, which is unusual in machine design.
The two Smart and Brown lathes sitting on my ute, ready for unloading. One was made of cast iron, the other of cast aluminium.
The capstan, after partial disassembly.
The capstan was frozen solid with rust. I had to crack it to complete the disassembly, by putting it a 20 tonne press after pre-soaking with WD40.. With huge pressure, it eventually went “bang”, and then showed some movement. I was then able to take it apart. Nothing broken or bent.
The collet closer on the three phase machine, after some cleaning and lubrication, and prior to disassembly.
The single phase S&B after restoration, painting, new tool post, attention to motor and wiring and switches. A lovely, quiet, accurate machine. Just no thread cutting.
Cast aluminium brand plate.
I did install a quick change tool post. No apologies. Not historically accurate, but very useable.
A good selection of collets.
New, modern belts for both lathes.
The 1 morse taper tail stocks are a pleasure to use. Smooth, no discernible play. Modern lathe makers could take a lesson from these handles.
The motors on both machines were checked by a motor rewind specialist. No major problems with either motor.
johnsmachines 
Very nice. What shade of grey did you use?
I suspect that on a small lathe designed for capstan work there is no need for a screw cutting facility since any threads would be made using a diehead.
john f
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Thanks John.
A die head would work well if I had one. Quite a few on Ebay, but the cutters never seem to be metric.
The paint was quite a success. It was brushed on, after preparing with “Marine Clean”, and as it dried, the brush marks vanished. It was quite thick, and filled many small defects and marks. It is a rust preventer, often used by car restorers on suspensions, exhaust pipes etc.
I am trying desparately to remember the name. Only problem is that the colour faded from the lovely grey in the photo to a more dull battleship grey. Other aspect was cost… $100 for one litre.
When I recall the name I will amend the post.
John
The paint was POR 15, dark grey. I would definitely use it again, and recommend it.
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Hi John, Matt again. So I am sorta doing the same thing as you regarding the Model L’s. I now am the owner of 2 of them, an older one with S&B collet nose and a newer one with the Burnerd multisize chuck nose. I was going to make an uber-Model L from the 2 but now I think I might have them both set up as the parts are interchangeable. A 1st and a 2nd operation lathe!
Anyway, what I wanted to ask you was this – my capstan looks like it is very, very slightly out of alignment. After looking at the tachnical drawings in the manual and also at your pictures it looks like the plate that locks the turret head in place has been re-made and is a little off. So what I wanted to know is what does the original part look like? Maybe if you could give me some dimensions, that would be awesome!
You know the part I mean? On the top of the capstan are 4 screws, it is the plate under that, the thick one that slides in and out. Is your plate in 1 piece? From your picture I can’t tell but I can discern what looks like a little square chunk that is removed near the rear of it (not the big one that the arm interacts with). This would tally with the drawings – what does it do? Is it there to adjust the orientation of the capstan head? From the drawings it looks like 2 adjustable plates that slide against each other, a bit like adjustable parallels. Or am I talking nonsense?
Thanks and keep up the good work!
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In the next few days I will pull it apart and send you some more pics and dimensions. John
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Hi John, I stumbled upon your blog while researching Smart & Brown Model L’s. I have an old one i am painting and doing some work on so was very interested to read about your restorations. You mentioned you have left over parts & bits and pieces. Would these by any chance still be around the shed somewhere? Would be keen to discuss further. Thanks, Rob.
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Rob, I would like to sell my 2 model L’s. Each of them has sets of collets, chucks, faceplates and lots of other tools. I also have several spare cross slides. Contact me at jviggers@iinet.net.au if you wold like to see photos or inspect them in person. John
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