MAKING BAND SAW BLADES
I have a band saw welder, but I find that blades joined with silver solder are more reliable.
The silver solder should contain at least 50% silver.
The jig below makes sure that the ends of the blade are held exactly correctly in position.
The blade ends need to be tapered at about 20 degrees to maximise the contact area to be soldered.
Band saw blade material is bought in 30 meter lengths, often very cheaply on Ebay. Silver soldering requires a gas or oxy torch, a container of flux, and some silver solder (from plumbing or welding suppliers). The technique of silver soldering is quickly learnt (practice on some worn out or broken blades). The blade is cut square with an angle grinder and bevelled on a belt sander. The jig needs to be made but it is simple. I could supply dimensions if requested.
Reblogged this on Stu's Shed and commented:
While John is discussing metal cutting bandsaw blades here, I am sure his observations also cross over directly to woodworking bandsaw blades
Definitely applies to woodworking blades also. (I still get into the woodworking occasionally).
The only difference between wood and metal cutting bandsaw blades is the tooth configuration. As far as I know The steel is identical.
And thanks for reblogging!
Hi.Thank you Sharing
please let me know: What is the best band saw blade?
I need a best bandsaw blades.
Thank you again
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Excellent info here, I am currently doing some research and found exactly what I was looing for.
thank you for the feedback.
So I have been noticing a lot of burning on the wood every time I use my band saw. I have been expecting that it was time to get a new band saw blade but I am just a novice and didn’t know which thickness of blade to get. Now all I have to do is decide what sort of work I want to use the blade for and then I can produce better quality. Thank you for sharing!
Burning is usually due to the blade being blunt, or possibly too many teeth per inch (or per cm… )
Suggest that you take your old blade to a supplier for advice.
Good article. However, it should be noted that some teeth are deliberately offset, particularly those used for cutting “green” (fresh, wet) wood. They are offset in order to provide a wider kerf to pass the wet sawdust out of the cut, as well as to reduce the tendency of wet wood to, in some types, close back together, binding the blade. With this blade, the offset tooth is regularly spaced, for example, every 4th tooth. Fresh wood is often favored by woodturners as it turns very easily.
Interesting. But my blades are mainly used for cutting steel and other metals these days.