Mini 4 Axis CNC Mill-8. Finished!

I have finished the Mini CNC Mill. It is working, and I am satisfied that it will do the jobs of making small 3D pieces accurately.

Had to sort a few problems.  First there was excessive play between the hardened steel 8mm rods and the linear bearings.  I had measured the rods at 7.97mm diameter, so placed another order, and eventually received some slightly better rods, at 7.985, but no improvement in the play, so placed yet another order, (different supplier each time), and the final ones were 7.99, and still the play was excessive.  Then the penny dropped, and I got some new linear bearings, which solved the play problem.

Next issue was excessive backlash in the acme screw nuts, but that was solved by installing them correctly, after some advice from my engineer friend Stuart.  But it did involve a complete tear down of the machine several times before I did it properly.

Finally, I installed all of the boards, switches, power supply, fuse, in the electronics control box.  That was fairly straight forward, but I knew that I was not capable of doing the wiring and booked my expert friend Stuart to do the job for me.  Despite the fact that he has done the same installation on many occasions, it took him about 4 hours.  I was taking frequent photos and making copious notes, so I could post that information here, but frankly, despite having a reasonable understanding of the principles of the workings, when issues arose on first testing, I had no idea how to do the trouble shooting, or how to fix the diagnosed problems. Stuart however sorted the issues quickly and efficiently. ( I imagine that if I was teaching Stuart how to do a Caesarean Section or a hysterectomy, the roles would be reversed.)

So, I am not going post the details of the electronics wiring.   But I will post photos of the completed job. (see below).

If anyone does decide to go down a similar path, and is not an electronics expert, my strong advice is to have an expert do that part of the job.  It is not for amateurs.  The making of the mill, and installation of the electronics components was simple compared to the wiring.

The mill is accurate and adequately rigid for 3d machining of plastic, wood, aluminium and brass parts, using cutters up tp to 3mm diameter.

The final cost of the mill and the electronics control box and manual handpiece, excluding repeat purchases due to quality of some components, was approx $AUD1000.  That does not include Mach3 and Vectric V Carve  Pro which I had purchased several years ago.

When I make some model ship building components I will post some videos and pics.

The most expensive component was the electronics box of controls (ESS board, breakout board, stepper motor control modules, switches etc) which was about 2/3 of the total.  But with all of those red and green LED’s it is quite a nice display!

Although “finished”, I am planning to add a sacrificial wooden work surface, and a tailstock for the 4th axis rotary table.  I think the tailstock will be useful for example for making spars.

And, I will be able to use the electronics box to run the CNC serving machine which is well underway.  Again, waiting for components, this time from China.

The mini 4 axis CNC mill, electronics control box, and computer running Mach3 and V Carve Pro, sitting on my desk in our TV room at home. The plastic tube is connected to a small aquarium pump which provides suction to the aluminium plate on the mill table and is used to hold down small plastic objects for machining. In this case making name badges. The rotary table will be removed for most CNC machining functions, but I can envisage that it will be used in conjunction with the vertical spindle to make pieces like spars for the Constitution.
The electronics box has a lot of appealing flashing lights, indicating various functions. The transparent lid was a must, just for the entertainment.

And some progress on the Constitution. I have made the masts and bowsprit, and they are now siting in position, ready for the standing rigging.

Since this photo was taken I have used fine copper wire to temporarily hold the masts in position.
Carefully lining up the masts and getting the rakes correct. Sailing ships captains could vary the fore and aft masts angles varied to improve the ship’s steering and handling. I have chosen 2deg rake for the foremast, 3 for the main and 4 for the mizzen.

And here is the first standing rigging. On the bowsprit, showing the initial blocks and stays. Also showing the temporary copper wiring. I do wonder about the size of the blocks as supplied in the Mamoli kit. Maybe a bit too big? My seizing has improved a little with experience, but still not good enough, Now waiting until the CNC seizing-serving machine is finished.