johnsmachines

machines which I have made, am making, or intend to make, and some other stuff. If you find this site interesting, please leave a comment. I read every comment and respond to most. n.b. There is a list of my first 800 posts in my post of 17 June 2021, titled "800 Posts"

Tag: Hull coppering

Coppering Bellerophon -1

Most British war ships in the Napoleonic wars had a layer of copper sheets attached from just above the waterline to (but not including) the false keel. It had been discovered that the copper prevented infestation by the Toredo worm which could cause major damage to the wooden hull planks and frames, even to the point of causing ships to break up and sink, or at least cause major costly and time consuming repairs. The British navy had experimented with various metals and paints and fasteners over the decades, and copper was found to be the most effective solution, albeit the most expensive.

As well as the problem of the Toredo, the copper also dramatically slowed the infestation of barnacles and weeds, which caused the ships to gradually become slower. Careening the hull of barnacles and weeds was possible at substantially increased intervals, if coppered, allowing ships to stay longer at sea, sometimes for years at a stretch during the blockade of French ports during the Napoleonic wars.

The copper sheets were typically 14-15″ x 48″ x1/4″ and weighed 22-32 oz per square foot, which in modern units equates to approximately 350-380mm x 1200mm x 6.3mm and weighing an average 2.8kg per sheet. A 74 gun ship required about 2700-2800 plates which weighed a total of approx 7.5 tonnes. The copper plates overlapped each other by about 30-40mm. They were held in place by copper nails 38mm long, 5mm shaft, 8mm dia head, approx 100 per sheet. Initially iron nails were used, in ignorance of the salt water electrolytic effect between the iron and the copper, with the inevitable loss of the copper sheets. And damage to iron bolts in the ship’s planking and frames. The copper nails were also problematic, being too soft, but a later copper-zinc alloy proved succesful.

The nails were spaced 25-38mm apart around the plate borders. Later, the central areas of the plates were also nailed. As far as I can ascertain, the central area nails were in rows, staggered. But I could find no existing examples of original copper plating. Nor any repaired museum ships with copper plating which definitely retained the old patterns of nailing. USS Constitution has had her hull planking and therefore the coppering, replaced and I could find no record that the pattern was the same as the original. HMS Victory seems to have no coppering at all now. HMS Trincomalee, constructed in India to British frigate plans, is coppered, but again I think that it is unlikely that the coppering is original. If any reader has information to the contrary I would be very happy to be corrected.

HMS Trincomalee in drydock. A nice view of aged copper and nailing patterns. It would be great if the copper is original, or at least an accurate reproduction. Does any reader know?

Now. At 1:72 scale, the Bellerophon model plates measure 17x5mm and 0.08mm thick. They overlap each other approx 0.5mm. The vertical overlaps are front plate overlaps the rear. There is confusion about the long horizontal overlaps. Some authors state that on British warships the lower plate overlapped the upper. That seems a bit counterintuitive to me, particularly when authoratative authors state that coppering started at the keel and worked upwards. Merchant ships of the period, including later clippers, the upper plate overlapped the lower. In the above Trincomalee photo, the upper plate overlaps the lower. I am yet to decide what happens in my model.

I will use copper on my model. I know of no model ship parts supplier who has accurate coppering designs. So I will make my own. I will probably use electricians copper tape again, but I need to do some experimentation regarding nail marks, nail head sizes and patterns. Awaiting some supplies to arrive.

Coppering the Hull of USS Constitution model.

The Mamoli plans and instructions call for applying wooden rectangles dyed green to substitute for copper metal plates on the hull. On the original ship the plates were 48″ x 14″ x 1/4″ each. And there were 1700 of them, each one fastened with ~100 copper nails.

The wooden blocks in the kit were basic, a bit rough and way too thick for the scale. The scale is 1:93. Let’s say 1:100 approximately.

1/4″ = 6.35mm. At 1:100 the copper plates would be 0.0635mm thick. About 2.5 thou”.

I wondered if I could find some narrow thin copper strip with adhesive backing on Ebay. And sure enough I found multiple suppliers on Ebay and Temu. The thickness was always the same, about 0.05mm, close enough. And pretty close to the scale thickness of 1/100th of 6.35mm/1/4″.. And various widths 3-6mm were available. And 20 meters was only $AUD15 inc postage. So I purchased 2 rolls. About double what I required, I calculated. I figured that if the copper strip was unsuitable I could revert to the wooden blocks supplied.

After finishing the first layer of hull planking, I spent some time sanding the hull reasonably smooth, then used a wood filler to fill some concavities and cracks. I was happy with the curves and contours of the hull. I retrospect I should have been more particular.

When the filler hardened I used a sealer to paint the planks and filler in preparation for the next phase, which was applying copper strips and the second layer of planks.

The Constitution hull with the first layer of planks, cracks and divots filled with “Multifill”, and painted with “Peel Stop” sealer. The sealer just vanished into the wood as it dried.
Marked the border of the copper plates, slightly above the water line. A good use of my mini Kant Twist clamps and Mitutoyo height gauge.

Next I started applying the adhesive backed thin copper strips. Each strip was 4mm wide, and 0.05mm thick. It did take quite a lot of effort and time to learn how to handle the copper strip. Think of the worst properties of fly paper, fine clock spring steel, and tissue paper. The adhesive backed copper strip has all of them! I had to throw way early efforts. I did gradually improve.

The hull with a dozen or so strips applied. Each strip had to have a dent made at 15mm spacings to simulate the copper plates. I found that clipping the length to the cutting board made the job easier. The photo shows the starboard side which I applied from the keel upwards, with a marker strip at the finish line.
To simulate the plates, after clipping the strip to the cutting board, I pushed the end of a steel ruler into the copper strip, making a permanent mark. Too much pressure and the strip was transected. Too little pressure and the mark was too faint. Quite tricky.
I marked the application line prior to handling the adhesive backed strip. The peeled off about half of the backing, and gradually applied the strip. Not easy. It took 2 days, of about 10 hours/day, to apply all of the strips. Then a few hours more to fix the mistakes.

And then end result was not too bad for a first effort!

I have not yet decided whether to fully cover the false keel with copper, or just paint it black. I suspect that the false keel was regarded as a wear item to be replaced from time to time, and not covered with (expensive) copper plate. Do any of my readers know?

Next step is to add the second layer of planking to the bulwarks and hull above the water line.