johnsmachines

machines which I have made, am making, or intend to make, and some other stuff. If you find this site interesting, please leave a comment. I read every comment and respond to most. n.b. There is a list of my first 800 posts in my post of 17 June 2021, titled "800 Posts"

Coppering Bellerophon -1

Most British war ships in the Napoleonic wars had a layer of copper sheets attached from just above the waterline to (but not including) the false keel. It had been discovered that the copper prevented infestation by the Toredo worm which could cause major damage to the wooden hull planks and frames, even to the point of causing ships to break up and sink, or at least cause major costly and time consuming repairs. The British navy had experimented with various metals and paints and fasteners over the decades, and copper was found to be the most effective solution, albeit the most expensive.

As well as the problem of the Toredo, the copper also dramatically slowed the infestation of barnacles and weeds, which caused the ships to gradually become slower. Careening the hull of barnacles and weeds was possible at substantially increased intervals, if coppered, allowing ships to stay longer at sea, sometimes for years at a stretch during the blockade of French ports during the Napoleonic wars.

The copper sheets were typically 14-15″ x 48″ x1/4″ and weighed 22-32 oz per square foot, which in modern units equates to approximately 350-380mm x 1200mm x 6.3mm and weighing an average 2.8kg per sheet. A 74 gun ship required about 2700-2800 plates which weighed a total of approx 7.5 tonnes. The copper plates overlapped each other by about 30-40mm. They were held in place by copper nails 38mm long, 5mm shaft, 8mm dia head, approx 100 per sheet. Initially iron nails were used, in ignorance of the salt water electrolytic effect between the iron and the copper, with the inevitable loss of the copper sheets. And damage to iron bolts in the ship’s planking and frames. The copper nails were also problematic, being too soft, but a later copper-zinc alloy proved succesful.

The nails were spaced 25-38mm apart around the plate borders. Later, the central areas of the plates were also nailed. As far as I can ascertain, the central area nails were in rows, staggered. But I could find no existing examples of original copper plating. Nor any repaired museum ships with copper plating which definitely retained the old patterns of nailing. USS Constitution has had her hull planking and therefore the coppering, replaced and I could find no record that the pattern was the same as the original. HMS Victory seems to have no coppering at all now. HMS Trincomalee, constructed in India to British frigate plans, is coppered, but again I think that it is unlikely that the coppering is original. If any reader has information to the contrary I would be very happy to be corrected.

HMS Trincomalee in drydock. A nice view of aged copper and nailing patterns. It would be great if the copper is original, or at least an accurate reproduction. Does any reader know?

Now. At 1:72 scale, the Bellerophon model plates measure 17x5mm and 0.08mm thick. They overlap each other approx 0.5mm. The vertical overlaps are front plate overlaps the rear. There is confusion about the long horizontal overlaps. Some authors state that on British warships the lower plate overlapped the upper. That seems a bit counterintuitive to me, particularly when authoratative authors state that coppering started at the keel and worked upwards. Merchant ships of the period, including later clippers, the upper plate overlapped the lower. In the above Trincomalee photo, the upper plate overlaps the lower. I am yet to decide what happens in my model.

I will use copper on my model. I know of no model ship parts supplier who has accurate coppering designs. So I will make my own. I will probably use electricians copper tape again, but I need to do some experimentation regarding nail marks, nail head sizes and patterns. Awaiting some supplies to arrive.

Nelson’s Checkers -2

With the serious mistake of not removing all pencil marks prior to painting the yellow ochre stripes, I consulted my AI. It advised NOT scraping the yellow stripes back to bare wood, but just living with the mistake, on the grounds that scraping, sanding and repainting was likely to look worse than the persistent lines.

I agreed with that advice, but did add 2 layers of undiluted yellow paint, which makes the pencil marks visible only to those in the know. And you wont tell will you!?

Then, after 2 days of waiting while the yellow cured, I applied the masking tape. I used Tamiya 3mm wide tape, which was highly recommended on the modelling sites. The sites also recommended painting the edge of the tape with yellow paint after appliction of the tape to the yellow stripes. That was to increase the sealing of that edge before applying the black paint.

Then I applied the black paint, with a brush. Well actually it is a very dark grey. “German Battleship Grey”. Recommended by the AI to slightly soften the black which might look too intense in a scale model. SWMBO agreed, and since she is a talented artist and architect I do follow her advice regarding painting and colours.

See the previous post for the ochre yellow stripes. Here is a photo of applying the black. The masking tape is over the yellow. The first layer of paint always looks pretty rough. You ignore that and press on, making sure not to have any runs or drips. I follow the advice of experts and try to always brush in one direction and never go back over a previously painted stroke until it has dried. Well, almost never. A glob or run has to have its volume spread or reduced. So I use a very small brush, and dip it into the paint only half the length of the bristles or less. The paint is acrylic, and slightly diluted with water. A few drops of water are added to the pot from time to time if the paint shows any sign of thickening.

3mm Tamiya masking tape applied then finger tip massaged flat. A pointy probe is used on the joins and crevasses. I leave the ends long where possible to aid eventual removal. The first layer of paint always looks patchy and bare spots appear. Do not fill those spots until the first layer is dry. It is excruciatingly tempting, but the acrylic paint is dry within an hour, and a thin skin appears within a few minutes. If extra brushing is done within a minute or two of intial application that skin turns into tiny lumps which become embedded in the paint. How do I know? Not telling.

So, I am learning from my mistakes. And the final result is reasonable IMO.

2 coats of the black-grey. Between the second and third lower gunport you might see slight bleeding of the black into the yellow. I used the 1mm wide chisel shown to gently scrape off the black bleed (and a few others) and touched up the yellow.
The junction between the lower black stripe and the bare planking is the waterline. When viewed from the horizontal it is actually flat.

The next step is the coppering of the hull.