johnsmachines

machines which I have made, am making, or intend to make, and some other stuff. If you find this site interesting, please leave a comment. I read every comment and respond to most. n.b. There is a list of my first 800 posts in my post of 17 June 2021, titled "800 Posts"

Armstrong RML Model Cannon Parts

Firstly, on the subject of metalworking lubricants, I have previously mentioned my homemade mixture of kerosene and olive oil.   And here is my favourite lubricant…..posing with the not quite finished cannon chassis girders…..

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For this model cannon I need quite a few sheet metal parts.  At 1:10 scale the final metal thickness is 2mm and 2.5mm.  Having had a good experience with laser cutting the HSS cutters for the rifling tool, I decided to send an electronic file to the laser cutting firm, and see how the parts turned out.  I decided to not include the rivet holes, thinking that the final positions might not be completely predictable.  If all goes well I will probably include all of the holes in future orders.

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I ordered enough parts for 2 cannons, and some spares for the inevitable stuff ups.  (or should it be stuffs up?).  If I do not use the spares I might offer them for sale later, along with my plans.

The accuracy and quality of the cuts seems excellent.  All of the parts will require final fitting and drilling for rivets, shafts, etc.   I was pleasantly surprised at the modest cost of these 30 parts.

 

So next I can start assembling the chassis.  Lots of riveting.  About 500 rivets per cannon. Another skill to be acquired.  Fortunately for me, one of my model engineering club colleagues used to work in aircraft manufacturing, and he has spent a session teaching me the ins and outs of installing solid rivets.  And loaned me a riveting gun suitable for the 2mm rivets which I have chosen.  Thanks Neil!

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The gun is about 40 years old but it works well.  The snaps are all imperial, so I made one, and modified one to fit the metric 2mm size.

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The blank snap in the ER collet is an unhardened punch blank.  Here being drilled with a carbide ball nose end mill.  Not exactly the right size, but with some fiddling I got it very close.  Since I am intending to use copper rivets I will not harden the snap.

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My initial riveting practice run in aluminium was a bit unimpressive…..

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….but I did improve.  These are almost up to scratch.   In aluminium.

And finally for this post, I drilled some holes in the muzzle of the barrel.  Do you know why they are there?

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A staged photo, using the 3D printed barrel, to show the drilling setup.

 

Armstrong RML Chassis Girders

 

chassis R rear obl

 

Having made the decision to try to mill the girders from solid steel bar, I bought some 50x16mm bar and cut it into 400mm lengths.

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Then milled it to 46.4 x 14mm, then used carbide end mills to form the girder profile.  This process produced a large amount of hot, sharp chips, and took 2 full day sessions in the workshop.  Each evening I spent about 30 minutes pulling bits of swarf from the soles of my boots with pliers.

And I discovered the limits of my milling machine.  The 5hp spindle motor never hesitated.  Nor did the axis AC servos.  I did manage to chip the cutting edges of  a 12mm carbide end mill when it dropped onto the milling table.  And I blunted another one.  Not sure how that happened.  Maybe hit a hard bit in the steel.   No, the limit of the machine was the ability of holding the end mills in the ER40 collet chuck.  If I pushed the depth of cut or the feed rate too hard, the cutter would start to move in the chuck.  I managed to ruin one work piece in discovering that fact.

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There is virtually no distortion resulting from the milling.  The apparent bend in the photo is photographic distortion.

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The Vertex milling vices are within 0.02mm for height.  I picked up the second vice cheaply on Ebay a couple of years ago, with this exact purpose in mind. (milling longish workpieces)

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3 made.  One to go.  Plus the bottom 6º shape and the 4º ends.   Each 4.5mm deep pocket takes about 25 minutes, at 300mm/min feed rate, 1.5mm depth of cut, 2700 rpm.

I should be able to finish the girder shapes tomorrow.

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These milling marks are visible but very not finger tip palpable.  Any suggestions for a good method of improving the finish?

Then to mark out the rivet positions, and insert about 100 rivets into each girder.  In the model these will mostly be decorative.  In the original they held the components of the girder together.  Luckily for me, a fellow member of our model engineering society is a very experienced riveter, having worked in aircraft manufacturing, and he has offered to spend a session teaching me some basics.  In the original cannons, the rivets are superbly neat, regular, and obsessively carefully laid out.  I will try to do likewise.

Armstrong RML. The Chassis -1

 

I will start by making the main girders.  At 1:10 scale they will be 400mm long, 11mm wide and 46mm deep.  Some fabrication will be required.

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Many rivets required.  I will need to improve my riveting skills.  One issue to be decided. Do I use copper (easy) or steel rivets (authentic)?.  Whichever, they will be eventually painted the same colour as the girders.

 

chassis R rear obl

And another decision.  Your opinions invited.  2 methods for fabricating the girders.

TIG weld the flanges top and bottom (right).  Or, (left) join 2 pieces of angle iron, then TIG weld the bottom flange.  I don’t like the top groove to be filled.  I do not really want to paint the surface that the carriage wheels roll along.

It is a very long time since I did any TIGging, so maybe some practice runs first…

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And another option comes to mind….   just to machine the shapes out of solid bar.  I think that I will try TIG first.

Later….   just remembered.  I don’t have any TIG gas.  Easter.  Bum.  OK.  Back to square one.  Maybe I will try to mill the shape from bar…..

Model Armstrong Cannon. Machining the trunnions-3.

On my “reject” barrel the silver soldering was problematic, and one trunnion was subsequently glued into place with Loctite 620.  This proved to be so effective, clean, and controllable that I used the Loctite for the main barrel.  The following video shows the Loctited trunnions being machined, and showing no signs of being dislodged.

It also shows a possibly dodgy but successful method of rounding the ends of the trunnions.

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The finished trunnions and shoulders.  Resting on a 3D printed platform which is quite handy.

Click on the arrow to see the 5″ video.

Armstrong RML Cannon Trunnions – 2

Silver soldering the trunnions into the barrel and the squared blocks did not go well.

For a start, I did not know the composition of the steel of the barrel.  The trunnions were/are silver steel, and the blocks were mild steel.  So it is possible that I did not use the best flux.

And the barrel is quite hefty, so I knew that it would require a lot of heat to get it to temperature, and to keep it at soldering temperature.  So I used a large oxy-propane torch, and heated it to dull red heat.

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The steel pieces fluxed and wired together, ready for heating

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It was a cool day, but the heat output from the red hot barrel was ferocious.

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Soldered, but one side was not good, and a hammer blow dislodged it.  Damn.

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The good side, partially machined.

I dithered about how to deal with the faulty side.  I was not enthusiastic about re-soldering it, expecting that the good side would fall apart.

So I cleaned up the pieces, and used high strength, high temperature, Loctite 620, to join the pieces.  The machining will test the strength of the joins, so I will give it the full 24 hours before testing it.  This is the “reject” barrel.

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Still pondering how to join the trunnions of the “good” barrel (front).  I will discuss it with my colleagues tomorrow when we have a Model Engineering Society meeting on “Zoom” video link.  The 3D printed barrel at back is a handy “how it should look” example.

 

 

 

Armstrong RML Cannon Trunnions 1.

cannon from above front

The 80lb Armstrong RML cannon trunnions were probably heat shrunk into the sides of the barrel.  (WRONG!  See post from July 2020.  The construction of these barrels was much more complex than I had imagined.  The trunnions were part of a forged ring which was heat shrunk then welded to the other components of the barrel).  The squared off barrel sides would have been part of the original wound and welded steel rods, and machined to shape before the trunnions were inserted.

The hole above the trunnion is to hold one of the 4 sights.

For the 1:10 model I considered various construction methods. This is what I decided…

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The 20mm diameter trunnion is fitted into a milled steel block, and the 2 pieces on each side are then silver soldered into prepared recesses in the barrel.

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The the barrel is mounted in the CNC rotary table and tailstock.  15mm deep holes are drilled into the barrel….

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and widened to 20mm diameter (drilled then milled)……  (for cutting fluid I use a mixture of olive oil and kerosene.  It produces a lot of evaporated fluid but is very effective at keeping the job cool).

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….then complete the recess.   The bottom of the recess is 8mm clear of the bore.

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Next step is to make the blocks, the trunnions, and silver solder them all together.  Not entirely authentic, but compromises are required when scaling down.   Still on the reject barrel, as a trial run.

Rifling the Model Armstrong RML

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The HSS cutter is mounted in a tight 3mm wide slot in 16mm silver steel.  The 4 mm cap screw pushes the cutter up by 0.2mm per full turn of the screw.

The following video shows an air cut of the rifling cutter in the CNC rotary table on the CNC mill table.   Then some actual cuts in a 1:10 scale cannon barrel.  This barrel was a reject, and was used to practice the rifling cuts.

You can click on the arrow in the box below, or see the video full screen in YouTube.

 

Laser Cutting High Speed Steel

As previously detailed, the rifling cutters which were made from a broken Brobo blade were unsuitable because I had not taken into account the thinning of the blade due to hollow grinding.

So I bought some high speed steel in the form of woodworking thicknesser blades, which were 3mm thick.  Also, I redesigned the cutters to be a bit more robust, and take a 4mm pin instead of the previous 3mm pin, which looked a bit spindly.

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6 cutters from one thicknesser blade 225mm long, 3mm thick

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3.03mm thick.  Just right.

 

Bronze Casting 3. Equipment.

I have been unwell for 1-2 weeks with a respiratory disease.  I twice requested Covid-19 testing, but was declined because I fell outside the guidelines.  At the same time my wife fell ill with similar symptoms, but her situation rapidly worsened with severe asthma, and she required a hospital admission.  She was given the Covid test, but it was negative, and it turned out that she has a different virus named RSV (respiratory syncytial virus) which causes croup in infants.  So it seems likely that I have the same virus.

The  problem is that we are coughing constantly, and sleep is very interrupted.  And we need to continue self isolation just to avoid coughing near other people.  I feel some empathy for infants with croup.

So not much happening in the workshop.

But I have been accumulating various bits and pieces  that will be used for bronze casting pieces for the Armstrong cannon project.

First, the metal melting furnace.  10amps, 240v, 2600w, 1200ºc.  Graphite crucible.

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This should melt alu, copper, bronze, but not steel.  Is there a town named “Italy” in China?AUD$405

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And some quite reasonable gloves.

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A second furnace is needed to prepare the mould.  This was a quite old pottery furnace, used by a lady for ceramic painting.  Purchased by me second hand, (AUD$700) and knowing that some repair work would be required.

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It is a good size, and heating coils are intact and well seated.  I do not know if the thermocouple works so I have ordered a spare.

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The firebricks are in excellent, almost unused, condition.

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It is using the rated 2600w.

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The electrics work, but most of the joins and fittings are rusty.  I will clean up the joins, and replace the fasteners.  I also intend to replace the power switch with a digital control.

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To make the mould I have chosen (on advice) a jewellers investment powder, normally used to mould rings and brooches with very fine detail.  It is not cheap (AUD$130), and must be handled carefully and not inhaled.

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The steel mould cylinder, and rubber end piece.

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Wax cylinders to be used as supports, sprues and vents.

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And finally, the vacuum unit, for removing air bubbles from the investment powder mix, (AUD$200)

A significant financial investment, and not finished yet.  And no guarantee of acceptable results.   I did obtain a quote from a professional caster, but it was even more expensive.  So, I will be giving bronze casting a trial soon.

 

 

Boxford TCL125 CNC Lathe, 3rd AXIS.

Below is a video which was recorded by my machining mentor friend, Stuart Tankard.  Stuart made a milling attachment for his Boxford CNC lathe, and he demonstrates it in the following video by making some lovely small valve control handles.

I followed in Stuart’s footsteps by making a similar attachment for my identical Boxford 125 CNC lathe, but I have not yet video’d it in action.  Not much point when Stuart’s video is so good.  I really like the absence of irrelevant, irritating music.  Just machining sounds.   Enjoy.   (if you want to see it full screen, copy the YouTube address from the settings icon).

Bronze Casting -2

When I looked closely at the rifling cutters which I had lasered out of a broken Brobo saw blade, I realised that I had boobooed.  I had measured the thickness of the blade at 2.5mm, which was actually a bit thinner than I wanted, but would have been acceptable. But when I measured the cutters, they were only 2.2mm thick.   Reason?  The saw blade had been hollow ground, and the blade inside the teeth was thinner.   Too thin, I decided.

So after some wailing and teeth gnashing I have ordered some 3mm thick tool steel in the form of planer blades, which I am pretty sure will not be hollow ground, and I will ask the laser cutter to cut me some more blades.  So waiting waiting.

And I am setting up the cannon barrel for rifling.  The CNC rotary table (stepper motor hidden behind) will be bolted to the CNC mill table.  The barrel is held in the jig which is held by the mill quill.  The cutter, (not seen in this photo) will be drawn out of the barrel by the mill X axis, while being rotated in the A axis by the rotary table.   That is the plan anyway.  But still waiting for bits to arrive so I can finish the cutting tool.

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The Armstrong cannon barrel held to the mill quill, and the rifling cutter will be held by the CNC rotary table.

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The rifling tool which I will not be using because the cutter is too narrow.  The cutting edge just peeping out of the slot will be dragged and twisted through the barrel bore.  The cap screw adjusts the degree of protrusion.

 

BRONZE CASTING

Meanwhile, I am accumulating various bits of gear to do some bronze casting.   An electric furnace with graphite crucible from China, Some jewellery investment material for the moulds, and a second hand pottery kiln for preparation of the moulds, and melting out the PLA 3D printed parts.   I will take some photos when it is all here.

And SWMBO has conscripted me to assemble and install some kitchen cupboards for a property which she is renovating.

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These are flat pack units.  Kaboodle.  Well designed and CNC cut and predrilled.  Not quite finished.  Waiting for the stone bench tops to be made and installed, and for appliances to be wired and plumbed.  Frankly I would prefer to be tidying up my workshop, but hopefully I am gaining some “Brownie Points”.

NBN. At Last!

And about the last.  The fibre optic network was commenced about 3 years ago, and I applied for a connection shortly after.

Despite living in the centre of Victoria’s second biggest city, my house was not connected to the National Broadband Network until today.

Until then I have coped with download speeds as low as 1mb/sec, and uploads as slow as 60kb/sec.  Do you wonder why I upload so few videos?

Today, the NBN was finally connected.  The download speed is a blistering 50mb/sec, and uploads 25mb/sec.  Wow!

Just to celebrate, I am posting some pictures.  Not much to report from the workshop, but I am accumulating some items in readiness for rifling the model cannon bore.

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This photograph would typically have taken 60-120 seconds to upload previously.  Today it took about 5 seconds!    As you can see it is a cold saw blade which has seen better days.  My bad, unfortunately.   But I saved the pieces,  because these blades are made of high quality tool steel.  I have had some parts laser cut .

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The laser cutter left the tabs intact so the tiny parts would not be lost.

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The 2.5mm thick part popped out with a bit of finger pressure.  Not much tidying up required here, but I will sharpen the cutting edge.  This will be the cutter for the rifling of the model cannon.

This is the first time I have had parts laser cut, and I am impressed by the accuracy and smoothness of the cut and the narrow kerf (0.2mm).    Oh, and the cost.  It was surprisingly inexpensive.  ($AUD26).

 

Repairing Failed 3D Prints

As a beginner, I have a fair percentage of unsatisfactory prints.

Print breaks free of plate.

Supports fall over.

Overhanging areas insufficiently supported.

Holes appearing due to wrong settings.

etc. etc. etc.

Most of the time I just bin the failure, change the settings or setup, and make another print. And wait another 2, 9, 12 or 24 hours……  Not a huge financial cost, but does involve waiting.  And I am not very good at that.

I used to grow olives and make olive oil.

Sometimes the bottles of oil were sealed with wax.  Melting point 85ºc.

After a failed print of 6 items today, due to inadequate supports of overhanging areas, I wondered if the holes and thin areas could be fixed with the bottle sealing wax.  After all, lost PLA casting is just a descendant of the lost wax method in the metal casting process.

So I found the left over remnants of the bottle sealing wax, and heated up a soldering iron.

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One of the failed prints.  This is a wheel trolley bracket for the model Armstrong cannon.  The moth eaten area was overhanging, and the support had fallen over.  The area was thinned and the holes were not properly formed.   If a brass or bronze casting was made from this, it would have been unusable.

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The 850g slab of bottle sealing wax, and soldering iron.  I do not know if this supplier is still available.  It was not expensive.

The soldering iron is heated, dipped into the wax, and the molten wax carefully dripped onto the deficient area of the print, gradually building it up.

The wax can then be shaped with the soldering iron, or a heated knife, or even a finger or thumb.  I also tried a blade shaver and sharp knife.  I think that my soldering iron, and finger were the best tools.

 

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The repaired area.  It looks unsightly, but of course the wax will all disappear during the casting process, along with the PLA.

I am probably reinventing the wheel with this idea.  Again.  But have not seen it used anywhere else.  So there it is.  I think that it will be useful to me.

PS>. 12 hours later.  I now realise that this is so old hat that I am embarrassed that I posted this.  Reinventing the wheel,… that’s me.

 

 

Bronze Casting. 1.

My model Armstrong cannon has some components which will be difficult to machine, and would involve silver soldering many tiny pieces.

For example, the steel brackets in which the wheels are supported, and the centre column.

rear trolley

There are 4 trolleys like this.  Each one has 2 or 3  wheels.  It is a Z shaped profile with 3 gussets visible and 2 more inside.

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The centre column.  It could be fabricated.  

But being basically lazy and always looking for the easy way out, I have decided to investigate the possibility of casting these parts.  And some others.

So I have printed them in PLA filament, with a view to a “lost wax” type of casting process.  It will be “lost PLA” of course.  Maybe doing the casting myself.  But also checking the possibility of having it done professionally.

The PLA printed parts which will be melted and burned away in the casting process, have to be as well finished as possible.  So I have been experimenting with various settings in 3D printing.  One problem is that the molten plastic thread has to be supported.  Overhangs up to 45º or even 60º can self support.  And even horizontal overhangs can self support if the gap is not too big.

print unsupported threads

But this gap, about 20mm, proved to be too big…

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The threads are partly bridging the gap…

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Horrible.  It is the underside, but even out of sight, it is unusable.

So, I am printing up some supported versions, even as I type this.  And I am going to look at some casting equipment which I might be able to borrow.  Apparently the gas furnace is very noisy, and it needs a home with no close neighbours.   List…. a furnace capable of melting bronze, a crucible, investment casting powder,  protective gloves, helmet or face mask, leather apron, tongs, slag ladle, a casting box.   There are many YouTube videos on the subject of lost PLA casting.    Watch this space.  But if the quote for professional casting from my printed molds is not too fierce, I will probably take that path.

3D Printing Question

3D printing is really slow.  So slow, that the machine is left unattended to continue the print, overnight in many instances.  The print head is set at 205ºc and the table at 60ºc, and it does bother me that this hot machine is left unattended, unwatched.  I do not know if any fires have resulted, but fires are of some concern, particularly here in Oz.

A substantial component of the printing time is the hidden, internal structure of the object being printed, the “infill”.

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In this photo I set the infill at only 3%, but to compensate for that I increased the wall thickness.  The result was a nicely rigid article, but it was a 24 hour print.

My question.   At this point in the print job could I have paused the printing, and filled the cavities with a substance which set hard.  It would have to be done carefully of course, and keeping the level below the printing edge.  It would also have to be cool or cold, so the PLA did not melt or distort.  It would also need to be able to be poured, or injected.  Plaster of Paris comes to mind.  Car filler bog would be too viscous.

Any suggestions?

Model Cannon Barrel. (T)rifling Thoughts.

My aim (as it were) in making this model cannon is to have a high visual quality exhibition piece.

It is a 1:10 scale model, 1866 Armstrong 80lb, rifled muzzle loader, blackpowder cannon.

One question which always arises is whether it will be actually fired.  My answer is that if it could be fired legally, it would be nice so I could make a video.  However, Australia has very strict gun control laws, (with which I totally agree), and I do not intend to flout those laws.  So this gun will not be capable of being fired.  It will have no touch hole.

To satisfy the visual appearance of a touch hole there will be a laser printed dot at the location.  Along with laser engraved Queen Victoria insignia, sight lines, etc.

But, it IS a rifled cannon, so I do intend to rifle the barrel.  And that needs to accomplished before the trunnions are fitted, and after the cascabel is fitted, so the orientation of the rifling is as per the original.

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The original rifling.  The 3 grooves are each 30mm wide, (clockwise or anticlockwise, not sure) and extend up to the edge of the powder chamber.  They are about 2 mm deep.  The powder chamber is slightly wider than the barrel bore, being continuous with the depth of the rifling grooves.  It is academic, because it will not be visible, but I will make it (the powder chamber, and the whole model) as accurately as I can, for my own satisfaction.  Fortunately the powder chamber is accessible to machining from the breech end, because the cascabel is screwed into position, and is removable.

Yesterday I started making the cascabel.  It was difficult.  The steel thread is lathe cut first, then the shape is lathe CNC’d.  Then there is milling the insides, and making a removable pinned rope retainer.  The third attempt was the most successful, but I am still not satisfied, and so there will be another one made today.   This is what I have so far…

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The turned barrel, threaded to accept the cascabel.  More work is required on the cascabel.

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The cascabel is mounted in an ER40 chuck.  It has been drilled and milled, and a removable insert is temporarily glued into place pending more machining.

 

Rifling.  Searching YouTube reveals multiple tools and setups from US sites.  Here are a few screen shots to show you some varieties.

From the sublime ….

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to the other extreme…

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No.  I will not be using a PVC pipe lash up.

The amateur designed and built machines are interesting….

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Sine bar on the right.

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Then there is the method of pressing a button cutter through the bore.  My bore is an odd size, so if I used this method I would need to make my own cutter.

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This one is a computer animation of a 19th century rifling machine, now a museum exhibit.   Can you see the barrel?   Armstrong probably used a much larger version of this type to rifle his cannons.

 

But I think that I will use none of these methods.  I have a CNC mill and a CNC rotary table.  Mach3 can control both of these machines simultaneously.   If I mount the cutter assembly in the rotary table, and the cannon barrel to the mill quill, I should be able to cut the rifling grooves.  Still working on this one.

Naval Gunnery. A Book Review.

Naval Gunnery.  A Description.  by Captain H. Garbett.  R.N.  360 pages.

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Was originally published in 1897, and is a book which has been considered by academicians and scholars as being of great significance and value to literature.  As such, it has been reproduced by Alpha Editions in an inexpensive, facsimile, paper back edition.

I came across an article about rifled muzzle loading cannons which referenced the book, and led me to purchase it from the Book Depository for $AUD20.

It, the book, is fascinating.  1897 English, is beautiful to read, non ambiguous, and unusually, does not provoke the grammar Nazi in me.

And the book has answered my questions about cannon construction.  Not completely, mind you.  I still do not know how they managed blind rifling.  But most of the first 78 pages are about muzzle loaders, particularly Armstrong muzzle loaders.  With diagrams.

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One question which was answered was about the “recoil tube” located below the barrel of the Port Fairy 80 lb RML’s.  I wondered whether it was like a gas shock absorber.  The book explains that these long cylinders had a piston, and were filled with “Rangoon Oil”, (look it up.  It is in Wikipedia), and they were indeed designed to moderate the rate of recoil of the cannon.

Another fact about rifled cannons…   the rifling causes the projectile to emerge from the cannon slightly to the left or the right of the cannon axis, depending on whether the rifling is clockwise or anti-clockwise.

The book has chapters on breech loaders, naval mountings, quick firing guns, magazines, shell rooms, loading arrangements, sights, powder, cordite, projectiles fuzes, battleship development (up to 1897), battleship organisation and manning.

360 pages, 12 plates (black and white), 113 text illustrations.

If you have an interest in pre-dreadnought naval guns, this book is highly recommended.

 

Another Model Cannon Builder

One of my US readers has made a model rifled cannon, an Armstrong 110lb breech loader, 1:9 scale.  And it looks superb!  Best of all, he has made 2 videos of firing it.  I definitely recommend checking out the build and the firing in the link below.

I will substantially copy the rifling setup which Jeff used.  My sincere thanks to him for the information.   (ps.  although Jeff’s setup was tempting, eventually I used a CNC rotary table and CNC mill to do the rifling.  See later posts.)

http://jefenry.com/main/110PounderArmstrong.php

Armstrong RML barrel

After 3D printing a plastic 1:10 barrel I decided to have a go at turning one in steel.  I had a length of steel 70mm diameter and 290mm long, which was just too short to turn the entire barrel, so I decided to make one of the breech reduction rings separately, when I make the cascabel.

I did not know what the steel grade was, but it was off a machine so I thought that there would be a good chance that it would be reasonable quality.

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The length of rod next to the printed barrel.

The turning was initially fairly routine.

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and I was really pleased with the finish which was appearing.

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Mountains of hot swarf.

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The roughed out barrel.  I used the 16mm drill bit to drill the bore from both ends, but there was still 50mm or so beyond the reach of the bit.  So I silver soldered the drill bit into a length of silver steel (drill rod).

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And quickly completed the drilled hole. 

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Then transferred the piece to the CNC lathe, and shaped the barrel exterior.

I experienced 2 problems with the CNC turning.  The tapered chase of the barrel, and the rounded fillets came out really well, but the straight sections of the breech developed chatter marks.  I was preparing to take a skim to remove the chatter marks when I bumped the manual CNC control, the cutter dug in, and I got a deep score in the breech.  And broke the carbide cutter.  I turned away the dig in, but it left the breech diameter 3.5mm undersize.

I have no more steel of that size, and it will be quite a while before I get an opportunity to buy some.  So I persisted with the slightly undersized barrel.  It will be 62mm diameter rather than the intended 65.5mm.   I still have not decided whether to scrap it and start again.  But if I can get some more suitable steel I will remake it.  I might even use the undersized barrel to make a 64lb Armstrong RML, which had a smaller diameter breech than the 80lb RML which I am making.  (note added 19 Jan 2021…  The Armstrong 64pd and 80pd barrels had the SAME dimensions.  The main difference was that the inner tube of the 64pd guns coiled iron, but in the 80pd guns was solid ended steel. “Naval Gunnery” Garbett pp52-53).

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I showed it to SWMBO.  “That is beautiful” she said, somewhat to my surprise, and being surprised by its 3.5kg weight. 

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Ah…  if only…

Armstrong RML. Roughing Out the Barrel

Today was humid.  But I hardly noticed.  I was attacking a piece of 72mm diameter steel rod for the Armstrong 80lb model cannon barrel.   Enough of the plastic printed shit.  Now for the real material..

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It was a piece of an axle.  No idea of the exact material.  But it is magnetic, turned beautifully.  So not stainless.

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The roughed blank, and the plastic printed model.

Next problem was to produce the 16mm bore, through 285mm.

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None of my 5/8″ (15.87mm) or 16mm drill bits were long enough, so I drilled from both ends.  Still have a substantial chunk in the middle.  The cutting fluid is my own mixture of olive oil and kerosene.   I used to grow and make olive oil and I have quite a bit left over.

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The roughed barrel, ready for CNC finishing.  And a 16mm drill bit which I turned down to a 10mm shank, and a piece of 5/8″ drill rod/silver steel drilled to 10mm, which I will silver solder to the drill bit to make it adequately long to drill through the whole barrel tomorrow.

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The roughed barrel, and the 16mm drill bit ready for silver soldering.  Yeah.  It is a bit longer than necessary.

Turning cannon barrels is really satisfying.  Still considering how to manage the rifling.

3D Printing a Cannon Barrel

There is quite a learning curve to 3D printing, and most of my prints so far have exhibited considerable room for improvement.  There are some helpful YouTube videos on the subject, but at my beginners level there is still a lot of trial and error.

I am still planning my next cannon model build, and printed some cannon barrels to improve my printing skills, and also to have a plastic model of the barrel to help decide about construction methods of the metal model.

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This is a 1:20 print, but was unsatisfactory because the cascable, and the rifling did not print.

The next prints took 22 hours (vertical orientation) and 24 hours (horizontal orientation) each.

Firstly the vertical orientation..

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It starts with a thin line which marks a little beyond the outside outline of the model to ensure that it is properly located on the printing plate.  Then a thin base to ensure adherence of the model to the printing plate, for the duration of the printing.  My plate is heated to 60ºc, which is not essential with the PLA filament which I am using.  I changed the filament colour for aesthetic reasons.

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Each layer of filament adds another 0.2mm of height.  The rectangular columns support the overhanging parts, and increase the overall support of the model during printing.

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The printing is finished after 22 hours.  I can already see some mistakes.  The barrel should be smoothly rounded, instead of faceted.

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After breaking off the supports.  Next to a bit of workshop rod  which I will use to make the actual cannon model.   Not quite long enough, but the rifled gun tube and cascabel will be made separately so the steel rod will be long enough for the rest of the cannon.

The next print was horizontal…

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I made the supports more densely placed to improve the support.  The cannon barrel is just appearing in the centre.

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I left the printer to continue overnight, and this is what I saw next morning.  Note the longitudinal placement of the plastic fibres.  Infill set at only 3%, which was adequate.  I increased the outside wall thickness to 5 layers, which was plenty thick enough.

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The finished horizontal print on its supports (front) and the vertical version (behind).   Apart from the facets, the appearance of the vertical version was better IMO.

Now I am ready to turn the barrel in steel.  I have obtained a facsimile book about naval artillery which was written in the late 19th century, it reveals that the Armstrong barrels were made in concentric pieces, and heat shrunk together.  I will adopt a similar method, making the cascabel and the central rifled tube separately from the breech sections.   Not decided whether to heat shrink them together, or silver solder, or Loctite. (ps. a week later.  Changed my mind.  Making the barrel from a single piece of steel)

The artillery book also answered my question about 64 -80 lb cannon and bore sizes.  When round shot was replaced by pointy cylindrical projectiles, the projectile weight could increase by increasing the length rather than the diameter of the projectile.  And some 64lb cannons were redesignated as 80 lb cannons, after modifications which did not necessarily alter the bore.  Unfortunately the book does not answer how the rifling was accomplished with a closed breech.

And I made another workshop tool.   This one is a lathe tool height gauge.

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I expect that the tough PLA will stand up to workshop treatment quite well.  It is light, very visible, will test upright and upside down tool bits, and will hang on a conveniently placed hook. Also, it is within 0.01mm of the required 38.05mm tool height.  A light rub of the base over fine emery paper will get the dimension right on.

 

 

3D Printing is FUN! (but still slow)

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My 3D printer.  Bought from Amazon on a special offer.  $AUD279.  Worked straight out of the box after minimal assembly, and using the supplied plastic filament (PLA).  You can see the large gear on the platten which I drew up using a CAD program.  I used the software (Cura) supplied by the printer manufacturer (Creality).   The printer is a Creality CR -10S.  The “S” refers to a “filament out” sensor which I have not yet installed.  I read some reviews of the printer before spending my money, and so far I am very happy with it.  You might notice some bracing bars which I bought separately on Ebay.  Not sure if they are necessary, but they might improve the print quality by reducing vibration in the printer.

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These gears and shafts were printed.  They were used to check the sizes of parts for my next model cannon build.  I used a program called “Gearotic” to plan the gear module, teeth numbers, distance between centres etc.  Gearotic is also great fun.

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The printed gear and pinion quadrant on a background of a photo of the real cannon.  On my model the gear and pinion will be made of steel or brass, machined from bar stock.

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Another part sitting on a photo of the original.  This demonstrated that I had got the corner chamfer a bit wrong.  Much better to discover the fault at this stage! 

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A half size print of the barrel.  This was just for fun.  The final part will be ~300mm long, and will be machined from steel.  This print took almost 4 hours.

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A print of the centre column which the cannon chassis sits on and traverses around.  It is ~60mm tall.  It will be tricky to machine from solid bar.  Could be fabricated in pieces and silver soldered together, but I am considering using the printed part to make a mould and cast the part in brass or bronze……   The original cannon column has an 5-600mm extension into the concrete base which my model will not need.

So far all of these prints have been made from PLA filament, which I read is easy to use, tough, rather brittle, and has a low melting point.  It is also inexpensive (about $20-25 for 1 kg).  I am still on the supplied small roll which came with the printer.  Future prints will be in colour!

The weather is a bit cooler today, so I might get back into the workshop and make some metal swarf.

 

 

Armstrong RML

Some images of what I am planning to be my next model build.  As mentioned in a recent post, I photographed and took lots of measurements of this Rifled Muzzle Loader at Port Fairy, and have been searching the web for more information.  It is said to be an 80 pounder, but the bore (6.3″) is more consistent with a 64 pounder.  Can anyone shed any light on the discrepancy?

(note added 20/12/20…  I have now completed the model of this cannon.  See photo at end of this post.  To answer the question above, my reading indicates that the 6.3″ bore was used for both the 64lb AND 80lb cannons.  The 64/80lb refers to the weight of the projectile.  The Port Fairy cannon in the picture is indeed an 80 lb cannon.  The extra capacity of the projectile and the gunpowder charge was permitted by extra strength of the barrel provided by a more advanced construction method.)

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Yes, there will be some interesting machining challenges.

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Not looking forward to all of that riveting.  Considering options.

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Most of the photos were taken with a Panasonic Lumix camera, but some, like this one, were with my iphone, using an App named “My Measures” which accepts annotations and measurements.  The barrel “diameters” above are actually circumferences.  And the “19” is the plate thickness.

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The emblem on the barrel surface.  I am hoping to engrave this on the model, but there would be a lot of time cleaning up the image.

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A web search turned up this image, which will be easier to clean up for laser engraving on the model.

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And some basic diagrams of similar design

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The rifling grooves are 1″ wide.  3 of them.  How to make them?

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I asked about rifling grooves at a GSMEE meeting, and Rudi showed me how it is done.  He made these 2 rifling tools.   They are pushed through the bore to create the grooves.  The bottom tool was most succesful, because it has a pilot diameter.  But, the tools cannot be pulled backwards, so both ends of the bore must be open.  But what about the cascable end of the cannon.  It is not a breach loader.

Then the penny dropped…..I remembered seeing this diagram…

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The cascabel screws into the barrel.  That opening will allow me to broach the rifling.  I do not know how the rifling was made in 1866!  (does any reader have information on that point?)  Note also that these barrels were usually made with some concentric tubes of steel.  I expect that the model will be one piece of steel, with the trunnions silver soldered.

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And I have started drawing up the cannon, massaging the field measured dimensions (which were obtained with a builders’s tape measure)…

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And doing gear calculations for the gear train and rack.  Lots more detail to go into the drawing and plans.   And thinking about construction methods meanwhile.  Now who has a metal sintering 3D printer for loan?

See posts on this site throughout 2020 for construction of the model….

 

 

The completed model at 1:10 scale.

3D Printing is SLOW

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Crealty CR-10s 3D printer.  The machinists parallels were my solution to ensuring that the horizontal arm is parallel to the base frame.

So, I took delivery of the 14kg box, and spent a couple of hours assembling the printer.  It was partly assembled, as delivered, and if I had known what I was doing the final assembly would have been done in a fraction of the time.  The assembly instructions were adequate.  The wiring connections were well labelled.  The wiring connectors were delicate, and I took care not to bend or break them.

The vertical frame bolts to the base frame, and it is surprisingly rigid.  There are 2 Z axis stepper motors, and when not powered up, they can be individually turned.  It occurred to me that the horizontal arm which the Z axis motors raise and lower should be exactly parallel to the base, so I placed the machinist’s parallels as shown in the above photo and screwed the horizontal arm down onto the parallels to set the horizontal position.  I assume that the Z steppers will move the arm equally. (Hmm… I will check that assumption later.)

Next day, I downloaded the operating software.  An older version was supplied with the machine, and the newer version would not work on my old XP Pro Windows computer, so I used the old version.

I spent some time manually levelling the bed, then ran the automatic bed levelling software.

The printed operating instructions are very basic.  An Internet connection is assumed, and I did not have one available, so my first printed object was with default settings and the supplied white filament.

Somewhat to my surprise, it worked.

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The platten is aluminium.  A glass plate was also supplied, so I used that on top of the aluminium.

The filename was “dog”.  I had no idea whether “dog” was a 3D dog, a picture, or whatever.  Neither did I have any idea of its size.  After an hour, I had printed a disk about 125mm diameter and 1.1mm thick.  Then the disk came off the platten, so I aborted the print.

Today, after getting some advice from Stuart T regarding print adhesion I removed the glass platten cover and applied some special adhesive 3D printer cover.  It is called “3M double coated tissue tape 9080A”.  Then I printed 2 more items.  Neither broke free.  in fact they were difficult to remove at the conclusion of the prints.

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This tiny Tyranosaurus was printed from a 3D file which I found on my computer.  It printed in about 20 minutes.  Default settings again.  The supports were too big for the object, and when I broke them free I also broke off the T Rex arms.  Some settings for supports need to be changed.

The next print was a tool which I planned for the 3D printer…..

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The item is a speed handle for a milling vise.  It is 80mm diameter with some grippy indentations on the circumference.  The tricky feature to make is the hex hole, to fit a 19mm hex shaft.  This is the 3D drawing, imported into the Creality software, so the G code can be generated.

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First layers.  Each layer is 0.2mm thick

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The internal framework is a bit lighter than I wanted.  I thought that I had chosen 90% density.  (ps.  a couple of weeks later.  The speed handle seems to be standing up to the usual rough treatment in my workshop, despite my misgivings about its lightness.)

 

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The speed handle on the vise.  Nice fit.  The print took over 2 hours.

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Not perfect, but too bad at all.

 

?Next Project

I am home after a short holiday at Port Fairy, Victoria.  Port Fairy is on the “shipwreck coast” of Victoria, labelled for the number of ships which were wrecked in the 19th century.  Dozens and dozens of them, including the tragic “Loch Ard”.   Port Fairy was a sealing, whaling, fishing village in the 19th century, but now survives on tourism and dairy farming.  It was also the site of horrendous massacres of aboriginals.

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Port Fairy was part of the coastal defences against a possible Russian invasion in the late 19th century, when Britain was the enemy of Tsarist Russia.  Not that any invasion eventuated, or probably even contemplated by the Russians.  But no doubt they were pretty pissed off by the defeats in the Crimea, so an invasion of a weak but gold rich British colony was not not totally ridiculous.

So Port Fairy, and nearby Warnambool and Portland were fortified with decent shore based artillery.  The coast is incredibly rugged, with few landing places.

Today I saw some of the fortifications.  And my next project?….

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It is a muzzle loading, rifled bore, 80lb, black powder cannon (RML).  The associated machinery is in poor condition, but much of it is present, and its original form can be inferred.  Most of the external brass and bronze fittings such as sights and gauges have been removed, probably stolen.

The barrel itself is in good condition.  It is fired to entertain the tourists every Sunday at 1200, and on New Year Day at 1400.  Just a blank charge of course, about 1/8th of the charge which would have been used to fire a projectile.  I was fortunate enough to be present at the January 1 firing, and it was awesome!  Very loud.  A sharp “crack”, and gout of flame, and air shock wave.  Very impressive.   Rated as an 80lb cannon.  Far from the biggest ever RML, but still awesome.

And our model engineering society has a connection with the gun.  One of our GSMEE members used to prepare the demonstration charge, and conduct the weekly firing.  He operated a stone quarry, and was qualified to handle black powder and other explosives.  He tells a story of one firing which had a funny ending.  Someone else had prepared the charge, inserted it ready for firing, which was done.  Unfortunately he had neglected to remove the powder container, which was a “Milo” tin.  A few minutes after the firing, a very irate cop demanded to know who had fired the gun.  The Milo tin had landed on his patrol car which was about 100 meters away.

No (legal) charges were laid.

And another connection…   my son in law grew up in Port Fairy, and has fond memories of the town.

So I have taken many photographs of the gun and its carriage and machinery, and many measurements using a builder’s tape measure.  The overall length is 4 meters plus protruding barrel, and if I use the same scale as my previous 3 cannons, 1:10, it will be about 400-500mm long.  At this time I am preparing some drawings.  Thinking about materials.  Possibly steel.  With some bronze and brass for the fittings.   But I will finish the Southworth vertical steam pump first.

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Found this photo of a very similar gun which was mounted at Port Jackson, NSW.

 

Back home now, and watching the news about Australia’s climate change fires, politicians posturing, and the president who ordered a murder.  Absolutely appalled. “We got him”.   WTF.

So Many Mistakes! Am I Too Old for this hobby? Or is it the heat?

Having completed the model Trevithick dredger engine, and not having an inspiration to start another major build, I decided to make another steam driven boiler feed pump.

Earlier this year (2019) I made a horizontal, duplex, twin cylinder feed pump for the 6″ vertical boiler, but I had also purchased the castings and plans for a vertical, single cylinder feed pump, not having decided which version to fit to the boiler.  The horizontal twin version fits and functions very well, but I decided to make the vertical version while I am thinking about another major build.

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This is what it will look like.  Hopefully.  Single acting 3/4″ steam cylinder top, and 1/2″ water pump bottom.

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The plans, O rings and castings.  The castings have been cleaned up on the RadiusMaster, and the steam cylinder (top) is almost finished.

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The 7 pages of plans are excellent.  Imperial measurements and fasteners.  I will use metric fasteners.

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But I work in metric.

So over the past few days, excluding the ones over 38ºc (100ºf), I have been machining the gun metal castings.  And making a real mess of it.

The Mess.

  1. The steam cylinder bore.  Bored with a boring head on the milling machine.  Turned out nicely, but I decided to run a 3/4″ reamer while it was set up on the mill, thinking that the dimension would be more accurate.  I did not notice until too late that the reamer was damaged.  It badly scored the bore.  I considered making a new cylinder from bar stock, but used the boring head to remove the scores.  Now 0.75mm oversize.  Annoying but not fatal.
  2. Steam passage not centered.

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    The steam passage in the cylinder cutout is meant to be centered.  It is off at a 15º angle, and is centered with the cylinder top, but not the bottom of the cutout where it should be.   OK, it will not be seen, will not affect the function.  Just a trivial mistake.  That is the final oversize bore.

    3.  This one could have been fatal.  All of the center drill holes for the screws and steam passages in the cylinder valve face were off by about 1mm.  The workpiece had moved in the milling vice between setup and machining.  I really thought that this would probably require a new part, but I decided to proceed and see what eventuated.

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    The middle 6 holes are the steam inlet and exhaust passages.  Fortunately they are in the correct vertical position, and have just been widened horizontally by the incorrect centre drill holes, which should not effect the function.  The screw holes merged into the incorrect holes, and were pulled a fraction laterally, but should be OK.   At final assembly I will fill the incorrect holes with something, probably epoxy or gasket goo.

    4. This was the most obvious error.  Moved the mill table in the wrong direction, and the rectangular hole ended up with an extension.  I don’t think that it will effect the function.  And it wont be seen by anyone except me, and all of you blog readers.  Oh, and now I have to kill you.

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    Bugger bugger bugger

    5.  This was another mill problem.  I had changed the tools to a 1.6mm drill bit, and reset the Z axis zero.  Or had I?  Maybe I had neglected to hit <enter> after the reset.  Anyway, the chuck crashed at high speed into the job, impaling and snapping off the drill bit, gouging the steam chest, and the drill chuck gouged the milling vice.  The chuck survived but required some remodelling on the belt sander and then a diamond file.   The vice jaw also needed some impact craters to be flattened, then swapped out to another less critical vice.

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    I flattened the gouges in the steam chest face, and I will make sure to fill those with something at final assembly.  The embedded drill bit can stay there, after flattening it with emery paper.

 

There were some other more minor issues, which do not bear repeating and prolonging this missive.  This all happened over 2 days.  Mistakes are made, and I console myself with my father’s advice “he who makes no mistakes makes nothing”.  But, this is the worst run of blues which I can remember.   It IS hot, which is not ideal machining conditions.  So what do I do?

Well, maybe it is just a bad patch, and things will be better next session.  And, I will try to be not SO impatient to get things finished that I don’t double check.  I (and you) will just have to wait and see.

BTW, have a safe and happy new year. 2020.  It is 101 years since we had a double number year (1919), and most of us will not see the next one (2121).  So make the most of it!

 

 

 

30 watt Laser in action.

Not mine, unfortunately.  This one is Stuart Tankard’s.  It is a Ytterbium generated, 30w, fibre laser, and the wavelength is such that the 0.01mm diameter beam will burn holes in metal.  Ytterbium, for those who can’t be bothered to look it up,  is a rare earth metal, atomic number 70,  Stuart has used the laser to cut parts from a 1.2mm thick hacksaw blade.  And in the following video he is making marks in a work-tool rest which I will use on my Radius Master sander grinder.

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It is a 360º protractor, and grid lines at 10mm intervals.   Looks purposeful.  Time will tell if it is useful.

Watch the video.  I am experiencing tool envy.

 

Listening to my own voice is pretty painful.  I hope that it doesn’t grate too much on you.

 

Melbourne Society of Model and Experimental Engineers. Xmas meeting.

The December meeting includes the competition for best model, best workshop tooling, and best engine.  The 3 happy winners were all from Geelong.

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Stuart Tankard, John Viggers, Swen Pettig

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Trevithick dredger engine model by John

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CNC lathe tools, toolholders and toolpost milling attachment by Stuart.

Following is a video of Stuart’s toolpost milling attachment in action.  It has been posted before, but is worth watching again.  It is quite remarkable.

(Photo of the flame gulper to be added.)

But, the best part of the meeting was this demo of a model aeroplane which was made by Don.  The plane weighs 2.5 grams!!!   The wing material is mylar which is 1 micron thick!!!  The flight was cut short by hitting a ceiling projector, but apparently the world record for a flight by a similar plane lasted for over an hour!  This YouTube video has had 360,000+ views in 5 days!

 

 

A modification to the Radius Master

The Radius Master is a quality 48″ x 2″ belt sander which is impressively versatile with its 7 work stations.

The work station which is vertical, and against a platten is the one which I expect to use most often.

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Vertical belt, and using the backing platten.

But the supplied work – tool rest is a bit narrow for my taste, and I decided to make another one.

I really like the one which was supplied with the Acute Tool Sharpening System (ATSS).

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The Acute Tool Sharpening System from Eccentric Engineering.

So I bought some 4mm steel plate and cut it to size (150 x 150mm), and CNC milled a support bracket to fit the Radius Master.

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The Radius Master with larger work-tool rest.

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The rest is adjustable for angle and distance from the belt.  Copied from the original.  The bracket is screwed to the plate.  I did not want to risk heat distortion by welding the join.

Then the penny dropped.

Why not use all of the ATSS fittings and fixtures on the Radius Master?  So that is what I have done.

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The ATSS system looks quite at home, yes?

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Hey Gary Sneezby, maybe you should do a deal with Radius Master.

I can quickly swap the ATSS fittings and fixtures between the CBN grinding wheel and the Radius Master.  It will be interesting to see whether the cubic boron nitride wheel or the belt is preferred for different applications.  I expect that the belt will be best for quick removal of material and the CBN wheel for tool sharpening, but we will see.

Oh, and by the way, the bigger work plate does not interfere with any of the other work stations.

And I will ask my friend Stuart to laser engrave some guide lines on the plate.  I have a new design to try.

And finally, here is a link to the video of using the ATSS, by Eccentric Engineering.  It is worth considering.  If you have not done so, I suggest that you look at Eccentric Engineering’s other tools too.  They are very interesting.  The lathe parting tool is the best one which I have used.  And the Diamond lathe tool gets more use on my lathe than any other.

 

 

 

Between the Classical Greeks and the Romans. The Hellenistic Kingdoms!

OK, now I realise that few of my metalworking, engine modelling, machinist friends will be interested, but just in case……a history book review….

THE RISE OF THE HELLENISTIC KINGDOMS 336-250BC

Philip Matyszak

Hardcover.  £20 RRP

It is satisfying to read a book which plugs a gap in the history timeline.  I chose this title because Philip Matyszak is a terrific author and I always enjoy his books, but once I had read the initial chapters I realized that I knew very little about the kingdoms which remained after the split of the empire of Alexander the Great.

The first third of the book summarises the career of Alexander and his wars of conquest.  Then the maneuvering and wars which determined how the empire was to be divided, and who the rulers would be.  Then a closer look at each kingdom.   The west (Greece, Macedonia), the Seleucid empire (Syria, Persia, parts of India and Afghanistan), and Ptolemaic Egypt.

Matyszak emphasizes that the Hellenistic kingdoms period was not just an interregnum between classical Greece and Rome, but a period with its own significance in warfare, the arts, philosophy, etc.  Three of the seven wonders of the ancient world originated in the Hellenistic kingdoms.

Unfortunately, there are many place names in the text which do not appear on the four simple maps.   Why can’t decent maps be considered an essential component of history books?

(If any of my metal working, modelling, machinist friends would like to borrow this book, just ask.)

 

 

 

 

Bucket List. A Book Review leading to..

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GLASGOW MUSEUMS THE SHIP MODELS

A HISTORY AND COMPLETE ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE

Emily Malcolm and Michael R Harrison

Large format, hardcover.  £35 RRP

 

Doesn’t sound particularly interesting?  That was my thought when I read that this book is a catalogue.  After all, who reads a catalogue?

 

However, the artwork on the covers is attractive and interesting, and I do have an interest in ships, models, modelling and history, so I opened a few pages at random.   And was transfixed!  This book is glorious!   Back to page one, read a few pages, then worked through every one of the 373 pages.

 

The photographs of the models are beautiful and expert.  Most are laterals, but some are of smaller details.  There are many historical photographs, pictures of modelers in action, previous exhibitions.  To describe the pictures as “lavish” would be an understatement.

 

Glasgow and the River Clyde was (and is?) famous for ship building.  Most of the 676 models in the Glasgow Museum’s collection are of ships built or owned in this region, over the past 150 years.  So this book includes models from the age of clippers and steam dredges, through the age of steam and dreadnoughts, to Queens Mary and Elizabeth, and later.  A wonderful historical tour.

 

Chapter 1.  Models in Shipbuilding (the whys and wherefores of making model ships)

Chapter 2. Professional Model Making (there were companies which made models for ship builders and owners for industrial and marketing reasons)

Chapter 3.  Amateur Models.  (including models made by French prisoners of the Napoleonic wars)

Chapter 4.  Ship Models and Exhibitions

Chapter 5. Building the Collection

The Catalogue  (220 pages)

 

Glasgow is now on my bucket list.

A few random pages to tempt you.

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Yes, I do find dredgers interesting.  Note who bought this one.

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A Modification to the Acute Tool Sharpening System

I have several tool sharpening machines, including an industrial Macson 3 phase machine, a Harold Hall grinder rest, and a Quorn Tool and Cutter Grinder.

But, the one that I use most often is this Eccentric Engineering “Acute Sharpening System”. It was made from a kit and plans supplied by Eccentric Engineering.

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Photo 1: The Acute Tool Sharpening System (Photo courtesy of Eccentric Engineering)

The system consists of a table which is adjustable for tilt and height, a work arm consisting of parallel links and a work head, a straight arm which is adjustable for position and angle and which the work head will slide along, and various fittings for holding lathe tools, ER collets, and others.

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Photo 2: My ATSS. The ATSS with cubic boron nitride wheel on the LHS, and the elegant but less frequently used Harold Hall grinder rest with diamond cup wheel on the RHS.

I purchased the kit of laser cut and spotted parts and the excellent 32 page bound plans from Eccentric Engineering. The parts in the kit require final machining, including drilling, reaming, tapping, turning and milling. It would be quite possible to use bar stock for the parts, having purchased the plans, but the kit is good value ($AUD 250 + GST) and it made the job quick and straightforward. A completely machined, assembled system is also available.  Details at https://eccentricengineering.com.au.

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Photo 3 These are the fittings which I made from the kit, and some extra parts which I bought later.

From the left: hex keys for quick adjustments, angle and gauge templates – most bought from Eccentric, but some made by me, tool holder centre, and collets on the right. Some of the collets are blank to be machined as required. Top right is an ER collet chuck.

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Photo 4 This collet holds a 6mm lathe tool.

This post was not really intended as free publicity for Eccentric, although I am very happy to give it a good rap. It is actually to show a modification which I made to the ATSS table. Shown in the next photos…

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My colleague Stuart Tankard recently acquired a CNC laser engraver which will engrave steel and brass and cut thin metal. I thought that it would be useful to have some accurate lines on the table in a grid, and others at angles to assist with setups. The grids are at 10mm intervals, and the angles are 30/45/60 degrees. In the above photo the straight slide is easily set parallel with the wheel face.

Of course, the cubic boron nitride wheel must first be accurately set to the table, and the grid assists with that….

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Photo 5 Straight edge lined up with the wheel edges and grid.

 

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Photo 6 And here the tool holder base is set at 60º to the wheel.

The angle gauges supplied by Eccentric will serve the same function.  Time will tell if the table marks are useful.

Also I am thinking that the work table on the RadiusMaster could use similar guide lines!

RadiusMaster

I have been watching Ebay for a year or more for one of these belt sanders, but they just never seem to appear second hand.

Then I wondered about making a 72×2″ belt sander.  I even bought a set of plans.   There are many versions of these sanders on YouTube, of varying complexity and sophistication.  The plans by Jeremy Schmidt looked very promising, well explained in his YouTube video, and the plans are thorough.  But the sander appeared to me to be fairly large and very heavy, and it was not going to be a cheap build.  I estimated about $AUD1000 by the time I bought a motor with speed control, and other materials.

Then, a stroke of good fortune.  SWMBO really wanted me to do a rather unpleasant job for her, and I was not enthusiastic.  She is renovating a small house.  The previous tenant had a cat which was either incontinent, lazy, or constantly locked inside the house.  Or maybe it was the tenant.  Anyway, the carpets stank to high heaven.  So bad, that SWMBO felt that she could not ask anyone else to remove the floor coverings and take them to the tip.   But she was prepared to ask me.  She knew that I really wanted to buy a RadiusMaster, and said that if I did the job, she would not object to the rather self indulgent purchase of the sander.  I had not really decided what to do about the sander….   buy or build…. but it would leave me free to make the choice.  So I did the job for her.  After the initial assault on the olfactory senses, it was not too bad.  Took a couple of hours.  And very thorough washing afterwards.

I still had not made a final decision about the RadiusMaster, so a few days later I drove to the dealer, and had another close look.  Meanwhile I had been reading reviews.  And I bought one.  The obvious quality, compact size, plentiful power, rave reviews, and ready re-saleability were all persuasive.

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It came with a stand, not yet attached to the floor because I have not finalised the position.

It is made in Australia, and I was looking forward to understanding the instruction manual for a change

Assembly was straight forward, took about an hour.  The instructions recommended a 2 man lift, but I managed OK solo.

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Enough power for my uses.  240V 8.19A.  No speed control, but that might be added in future.

Overall this is a quality machine, but one aspect was not up to standard.

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The vertical grinding table was noticeably not square to the platen.  In fact it was 2 degrees out.

I considered rejecting it and insisting on another table, but that would have involved another 2 hours each way to the dealer, so I fixed it myself.  The angle bracket was quite solid 6mm thick steel, welded to the table.  Some persuasion with a heavy hammer in the 6″ vise did the trick.

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The grinding table is now within 0.25 degrees of the platen.

This table will be temporary anyway.  I am intending to make a larger table, with fence slots, and and indexable protractors.

The RadiusMaster takes 48×2″ belts which are widely available and inexpensive.

The machine has 7 separate stations, which are selected within seconds.  I expect that the vertical one pictured above will be most used.  Others are…….

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The 8″ 200mm rubber wheel, for hollow grinding (used in knife making)

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The unsupported section of belt, and the notching wheels.  The guards swing easily out of the way.

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Horizontal positioning for pipe notching.  3 wheels are provided, and quickly selected, and other sizes are available. The horizontal position can also be used with an optional horizontal platen, which I have ordered.  Vertical-horizontal positioning takes a few seconds.

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Underneath view of the horizontal pipe notching rest.  If it looks confusing, it is.  This was one aspect where the instructions were vague and unclear.

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That large, heavy,  gold casting is the heart of the machine.  A lot of thought has gone into the design.

When I have had some experience with using the grinder sander I will write a review.  No buyer regret for a change.

 

 

 

Lathe Toolpost Milling attachment (CNC)

 

Although my recent posts indicate that I have spent  a fair amount of time recently on Google Earth Pro, I have also been busy in the workshop.  Mainly finishing the toolpost milling attachment for the Boxford CNC lathe, but also fiddling with the laser attachment for the CNC mill.  Neither of those projects is completely finished, but I thought that you might be interested in some progress photos.

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This is what the Boxford TCL125 CNC lathe now looks like from the front.  It is substantially modified from the original which I purchased 5 years ago.  To mention a few changes…..

the axis stepper motors are bigger and more powerful than the originals

the ball screws are now 10mm diameter, compared with the original 8mm

there are some adjustable axis limit switches

the 3 jaw chuck is replaced by an ER32 collet chuck

there is a removable toolpost milling attachment with ER 16 Collet chuck, with a speed controller, cables, and panic switch.

there is a removable safety screen (not seen in the photo)

And hidden in the electronics compartment….

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There is a 750 watt AC Servo spindle motor and controller (RHS, under the coiled cable)

The electronics have been replaced with a Mach3 compatible breakout board and associated peripherals.  Anyone with an original 1985 machine will hardly recognise these components.

And the software is now Mach3, running off an old Windows XP computer.  And using “Ezilathe” for most of the G coding, especially threading, and interpreting shapes which have been drawn as CAD dxf’s.

The new toolpost spindle works, but the software  needs a bit more fiddling to tie it into the CNC controls of the lathe.

The Boxford has provided an excellent base on which to make these changes, and I look forward to producing some videos soon of the renewed machine in action.

 

Tycho

Crater that is, on the moon.   One of the few areas shown by Google Earth Pro in high definition.  But I wonder if those nice sharp views will continue when these pictures become better known.

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This is the northern half of Tycho crater.  Tycho is approximately 80km diameter, over 3000m deep, with a prominent central mountain peak.   This picture is taken from 80km above the surface of the moon.

As we zoom into the northern rim of the crater…..

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Hmm.  Those rocks look interesting…. some right angle shapes….

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You would swear that those are buildings…    And look at the shadows that the biggest white shapes are casting.   Hang on, shadows.   Those big white shapes are not only rectilinear and big, they are up above the ground surface.  The yellow line is 1000m long, for comparison.

At this magnification some pixellation is appearing, so there is no point going closer.

Take another look at the biggest white shape.  Does it remind you of anything?  V?  Antarctica?  The following picture is from my post in December 2018.

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The Moon co-ordinates are there.  Take a look for yourself, using Google Earth- Moon.  While it is still available.

Surveyor 7 landed 40km from here, in 1967, ostensibly to check potential landing sites for later manned moon missions.  I bet that NASA has some nice clear pictures of the area.  I do hope that I am still around when the truth finally comes out.

 

Antarctic Sphinx

When scanning Antarctica with Google Earth Pro today, which I do from time to time, I came across this flattish circular shape on top of a mountain…

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Zooming in….

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The Disk pin locates a tiny dot of interest…. 6 Nov 2012.  Moving the Timeline date does not change the image.

It is 10km diameter, and fairly flat and smooth.  The above photo was taken from 10.5km altitude.

You will note my marker labelled “Disk”.  It marks a black dot, which I zoomed into….

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Well, that looked a bit odd…  quite circular, intense white and black areas.  31 meters diameter.   The co-ordinates are on the screen if you want to check this yourself.  Note the shadow to the west.  It indicates that the central round lump with the “face” is actually a substantial pillar, with straight sides.  There is nothing anything like it that I have seen, anywhere else in Antarctica.

So what is it?  Zooming in closer (in 2012) does not improve the clarity.  ?an odd heat vent causing local melting?

A bit of further checking reveals that the area is an 11352′ (3460m) volcano, which protrudes 2100m above the surrounding ice sheet.  Mount Takahe.  76.28S,  112.08W, in West Antarctica.  It is a large  “shield volcano” which last erupted in 5550BCE.  It erupted massively 17,700 years ago, and is thought to have accelerated the end of the last ice age.  The smooth flat area in photos 1 and 2  is the caldera of the volcano.

That is very interesting, but does not answer the question… what is the strange “sphinx” like protrusion in the 3rd  photo.

The above images were made in 2012.  I cannot find any other zoomable satellite images of this area, despite other areas of Antarctica being photographed at least annually, and in some areas, several times per year.

Also, satellite images of  most of the world’s volcanoes are available at http://www.volcanodiscovery.com , but Mt Takahe’s images are blacked out!

Please excuse my paranoia.   And the clickbait heading.

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The flat top is the ice filled caldera.

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Almost worth travelling to inland Antarctica, and climbing an 11,000′ volcano to find out.  Almost.

Oh, and by the way, there is a pyramid, or a mountain which looks distinctly pyramidal, in Antarctica…  Look it up.

PS.  2 days later.  Doing some more checking on Mt Tahake, I came across this YouTube video.  I was not the first to think that there is some strange stuff there.

 

11:00 11-11 Remembrance Day

On the Remembrance Day theme, this one was sent by reader Jennifer Edwards, UK.  It is from WW2.

Hi John,

As long as we are thinking of Remembrance Day, this is a photo taken by one of those front line battle photographers of my father who was a medic being awarded the silver star.

His company being led by a green lieutenant (90 day wonder) into an ambush was caught in a murderous crossfire of machine guns and mortar.

The lieutenant was screaming for a medic from a crater up in front. My father felt compelled to run under this indiscriminate fire to help him because he sounded so desperate.

When dad made it to him he saw that all he had was a broken ankle. Angry that he just risked his life for a non-life threatening injury grabbed the Lt. and broke his nose!

A bird colonel watching from the safety of a nearby hill saw my dad’s act of bravery and said “give that man a medal”. The lieutenant pressed charges for striking an officer.

So dad was busted to buck sergeant and awarded the silver star on the same day!

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Thanks Jennifer!  What a great family story!

101 years ago, today.

At 11am, on November 11, 1918, World War 1 ended.  Or as many historians claim,  phase 1 of WW1 ended.  Phase 2 became known as WW2.

The following text and photos are about one of the allies main artillery weapons, and the modelling of it by reader Robert Irving, of NSW.

 

The 1916 Vickers 8” Howitzer.

The United Kingdom entered WWI with its traditional lack of preparedness. Defence funds had been lavished on the Royal Navy to maintain the ‘Two Fleet’ policy, whereby Britain could deter attack by having a fleet more effective than the combined force of the world’s next two largest navies. The Kaiser wanted a fleet to rival his cousin Edward’s and later cousin Georges. The ensuing arms race drained the tax revenue leaving little in the budget for the army. The army was still equipping itself for mobile warfare after the needs of the Boar War and had a good supply of very mobile light field artillery, very few machine guns and an inadequate inventory of mobile heavy guns.

The failure of the Schlieffen plan to take Paris and the channel ports, against stubborn resistance, resulted in the continuous trenches from the channel to Switzerland. German policy was to build a strong defensible line and hold their gains. To this end they employed their normal thorough approach and by 1916 had fortified their numerous layers of trenches with deep concrete dugouts to give protection and a modicum of comfort to their frontline forces. They had also retreated to gain the tactical advantage of high ground where applicable. France and Britain, understandably had an offensive policy and didn’t build strong or comfortable trenches. Break through, then attack with cavalry thinking dominated strategy and tactics . Germany began attacking the Verdun Forts in late February 1916. General Falkenhayns stated objective being to “Bleed France Dry”and this they were close to achieving. The British were rushed into the long planned attack between Serre and Montauban, nine miles of front, to relieve pressure on the French. The French were to attack on the British right flank, though this was scaled down due to the huge losses at Verdun. The British attack  plus the diversionary attack at Gommecourt were together, known as the Big Push. This being the first major attack by Field Marshal Kitchener’s Volunteer Army, morale was at peak, despite the average three months the new battalions had spent rotating through front line duty; the sector was a quiet one.

In August 1915 the Vickers 8” Howitzer was approved however an order for 50 was not placed until March 1916 and delivery began in July 1916. The Howitzer fired a 91kg, 8” diameter shell a maximum distance of 11,000 yards, it’s trajectory was high and therefore it gave plunging fire, ideal, with appropriate fusing, to penetrate deep dugouts. There were a few makeshift large calibre pieces in operation in June 1916 but these were thinly spread along the nine mile front, they were mainly stopgap weapons made by modifying old naval guns. The Royal Field Artillery staple weapon was the quick firing 18 pounder, firing a projectile weighing 8kg with a range of 6500 yards.

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1918  Vickers 8″ Howitzer.

 

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Australian 8″ Howitzer battery

The attack was scheduled for the morning of July 1st  and preliminary bombardment began one week earlier. Huge stocks of shrapnel and high explosive shell for the 18 pounders were in place, far fewer heavy shells were available. The plan was that the new spigot mortar, firing a basketball sized high explosive projectile, together with the 18 pounders would break up the fields of barbed wire and kill sufficient front line defenders to make the 100yard to one mile crossing of no-mans-land, without cover, survivable. Results on the wire were patchy and on the dugouts feeble at best. Only British forces adjacent to the French sector, with a high density of artillery, had a real chance success, near the villages of Fricourt and Montauban

The Attack began at 7.20am on that clearing misty July morning, with the explosion of a large mine under the German front line at Hawthorn ridge near Beaumont Hamel, followed by a series of similar mines at 7.30am. Orders to the first waves of infantrymen were to advance at walking pace with rifles at high port and occupy the German frontline. Later waves were to attack the second and third lines to facilitate a cavalry breakthrough. These orders ignored reports all week, from trench raiders, saying that the dugouts and occupants were intact and only the odd lookouts were killed by the bombardment. Also that the majority of the wire was undamaged.

In the first two hours of the attack, most of the 19,000 attackers who died on the first day were dead, or lying mortally wounded, without reaching the German lines. Likewise a further 40,000 casualties had occurred and the trenches were blocked by walking wounded and dead men. The storm of machine gunfire and precisely zeroed German shell fire, cut down attacking companies and battalions in rows that represented the waves leaving the trenches. The Battle of the Somme, as it was later known was doomed on the first day, the squadrons of lancers and hussars remained behind the British trenches unable to take part in the planned big break through. 1st July 1916 had the highest number of casualties for any attack by British forces.  By comparison on the first day of the landings in Normandy in 1944, there were 4,500 total allied forces killed.

The failure of this attack is attributed by most historians to the lack of sufficient heavy artillery in the preliminary bombardment like the Vickers 8 inch howitzer,. Had the 50 guns been ordered three months earlier, who knows what lives would have been saved on both sides by shortening the war.

1i Near complete Test Assembly
The almost complete model.   OAL 450mm

THE MODEL

The model was built to a firm budget for an individual in the U.K. The agreement was to build a fair representation of the Vickers 1916 8” Howitzer with no more than 250 rivets. The final number of rivets was over 500. Construction took just under 900 hours and only the nuts, bolts, two hand wheels and main gears were purchased. The model was not capable of firing having a rifled liner in the barrel (like the original) that did not extend to the breech. The breech was a four segment rotating thread type operated by moving a lever through an arc of 45 degrees. The upper chassis had elevation and traverse mechanisms and the barrel had a spring loaded recoil ability. Rifling the barrel liner was a problem. Testing the single cutter broach showed location and spacing problems. Multi cutter broaching exceeded the pushing power available, even on aluminium. These techniques work well on large production machinery cutting four or five groove barrels. This barrel needed thirty plus grooves. Having seen a toolmaker friends EDM set up I had the idea of making a copper male button to be passed spirally down a steel liner cutting electrically in the electrolyte. It worked splendidly first go and took about 20minutes. (editor’s note… “wow”)

The wheels were approximately 7” in diameter, classic traction engine types, with the rims machined from thick walled steel pipe and the spokes laser cut. The chassis, upper and lower, were cut from solid plate rather than fabricated, this was due to budget constraints.  The scale of the model was 11:1 and resulted in dimensions of : bore 19mm, overall length 450mm.

There were no engineering drawings used for the build only the line drawing shown and lots of web photographs, all of these were of later marks of the 8 inch and some were complicated by being shown in reverse from glass plates. The gun was still in service in 1939 though by then it had pneumatic tyres and lots of refinements.

Robert Irving 2019.

1a Best Drwg

The drawing which was used to make the model..

1 Boring The Barrel

Boring the barrel

1 Front

Note the rifling.

1 Gearbox

Wide track

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1f Hub Drill Jig.JPG

Wheel hub drilling jig

1g Laser cut Spokes

The spokes were laser cut

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Turning the barrel

7 In recoil

In recoil

8inch Breech

Breech

Early Assembly

Early assembly

1j Later Assembly

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Completed model

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Hand for scale

Rims 2

The rims

 

So, again, thanks to Robert for the photos and historical context of this superb model.

 

Zhiyun Crane M2 improvement.

This post will be of no interest unless you have one of these camera gimbals.  I found, like other reviewers of the gimbal, that the 1/4″w thumbscrew which secures the gimbal to the camera is not trapped.  I have lost it once already when I wished to use it.

There are two possible slots where the thumbscrew can be positioned, depending on the size of the camera, and I suppose that is the reason the thumbscrew was not trapped by the manufacturer.

The fix was not difficult for a machinist with a lathe and a 1/4″w tap.

I made a 1mm thick brass disk, 10mm diameter, and tapped a 1/4″w hole.  Then milled a 1mm deep circular matching recess in the joining plate after carefully determining the correct position. Put the disk onto the thumbscrew thread after checking the position, then glued the disk to the thumbscrew.

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Thumbscrew now trapped in position on the gimbal-camera joining plate.  The brass round nut is glued to the thumbscrew and sitting in a carefully positioned, machined recess in the joining plate.

Of course, the positioning is for one camera only.  But because the position is fixed, it makes joining the gimbal and the camera faster.  If the gimbal was to be used for more than one camera, a slot should be machined rather than a circular recess.  When I want to change cameras one day, I can easily melt the Super Glue, and machine an extra round recess or a slot in the plate.

 

CNC Lathe Toolpost Mill

Just a quickie to show you a progress photo of my current project.

It is a very small milling motor with a small ER collet, mounted onto the toolpost of my Boxford CNC lathe, which will convert the lathe from 2 to 3 axes.

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At this early stage the toolpost holder and cylindrical motor have been mounted to the water jet cut bracket on the right side.  Pulleys and drive belt yet to be fitted and I will trim the shaft at the left hand end of the motor.  Then the motor wires are connected to a speed and direction and on-off controller.

The usefulness of this tool is apparent in the following video of a completed unit in use.  The main spindle motor of the lathe is now a 750w AC servo motor, which can be controlled from Mach 3, to go to programmed positions and hold the position while a milling procedure takes place.  Of course the milling procedure will be with small cutters or drills, perhaps up to 3-4mm diameter.

The idea, plans, and some of the parts are courtesy of Stuart Tankard, my very clever friend, whose completed machine is the subject of the following video.

Stuart’s video is republished here with permission.  The original, with comments, is visible on YouTube.  If you have technical questions about the setup, I suggest that you contact Stuart via his YouTube post.

CONFESSION

When I was making the triple expansion steam engine I turned the crankshaft from a piece of 50mm diameter stainless steel rod.   One centre for the main bearings, and 3 other eccentric centres for the big ends.  I spent a long time marking out the centres, then turned the bearings, gluing in a packing piece after turning each one, so that pressure on the ends of the crankshaft would not distort it.

After a whole day on the job, I was pretty pleased with the progress, and I lined up the almost finished crankshaft with the bearings on the bed, to see how it would look.

#%&*##

I had made a 3mm mistake with the position of one of the big ends.  It was a fatal mistake.

So I made another crankshaft the next day, and that one worked out fine, and is on the triple to this day.

The ruined crankshaft sits prominently on a shelf in my workshop, as a reminder.

Today I am making another confession, of another stupid mistake.

This was a beautifully smooth, accurate, keyless Rohm chuck which I used often in my mill, mounted on a quick release quality JT6 Japanese fitting.  I used it successfully on drills down to 1mm size for several years.

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But lately it seemed to have a bit of runout.  Inspection appeared to show that the JT6 taper part of the chuck had dislodged a bit.  Not the taper itself, but the sleeve that the taper was machined into.

So, I put it in the press to snug it back home.

No movement, so I pushed a bit harder.  (stupid stupid stupid!)

BANG!

I don’t know what let go, but I think that I cracked the tapered sleeve.  The chuck was seized solid.  Would not move despite heavy persuasion.  I had really buggered it.

O well, you live and learn.  I figured that I would remove the chuck, buy a new one, and install it on the expensive Japanese JT6 spindle.

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So I applied a gear remover, one of those double C shaped ones, with the hardened steel jaws, and tightened the bolts.  But it would not move.  Tightened the bolts further, and further, until I was not game to apply more pressure for fear of breaking the gear remover or the Sidchrome spanner.   Considered applying heat with oxyacetylene, but I really did not want to wreck the Japanese fitting as well, so I put the question to a colleague at the model engineering club today.  As a result of that conversation, this is what I did…..with an angle grinder.

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As you can see.

I considered putting it on the shelf next to the crankshaft, but you know what…. I don’t think that I can bear to look at it, so it is going out with the rubbish to be forgotten as quickly as possible.  (ps.  now sitting next to the crankshaft)

The JT6 spindle seems to survived unscathed.

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The other side of the chuck and the spindle, after separation.

In retrospect, I wonder if I should have tried some heat, but the chuck was busted, so it would not have made much difference.

End of confession.  But I dont feel any better.

Model Krupp Gun from Emden

These photos and description were sent in by reader Robert, from NSW, Australia

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Robert’s model Emden gun

Emden Gun by Robert.
The cruiser HMAS Sydney forced surrender of the SMS light cruiser Emden in
November 1914, after a sea battle that reduced Emden to a non firing hulk;
a scene of carnage.
Sydney’s 6 inch guns outranged Emden’s 10.5cm Krupp’s. The surviving crew on
board Emden dutifully tossed overboard all the breech blocks, so the ten
captured guns brought to Australia are sans breech mechanism and none are
without significant shell damage. Two of the best preserved examples are
main deck guns, one in the Australian War Memorial and one at the Navy
Museum in Sydney Harbour. Both of these have gun shields, the third example
located at the corner of Hyde Park and Oxford St. Sydney, is a mid-deck gun
that fired from an armoured sponson and this was not fitted with a
gunshield.
The shore party sent to destroy the islands radio station escaped in a leaky
schooner and their story is real boys own stuff.
The sleek  lines and proportions of the Hyde Park example attracted me to
make a model of it. In research on the history of Emden and its crew
(captured survivors spent the war in Berrima, another interesting tale) I
came across the story of SMS Konigsberg, sister ship of Emden, scuttled in
the Rufiji river delta, East Africa, harassed by a British battle fleet.
These guns were salvaged by the crew and using huge numbers of native
conscripts, were dragged through the bush to the German railway workshops to
be fitted with carriages and wheels, others kept as fortress guns. The range
of these pieces dominated fighting in East Africa until the Brits. could
ship out long range artillery. One gun was fitted to the German steamer SS
von Goetzen based on Lake Tanganyika and was the inspiration for the great
(fictional) movie African Queen. The defeat of the Konigsberg used aircraft
for spotting fall of shot and was the inspiration for another forgettable
movie starring Roger Moore.
Model details are: Length 356mm, height 140mm. Materials: Stainless Steel
base, the rest mild steel or brass. Traverse gear cut, elevation gear
segments purchased . Scratch built from photographs about 600 hours. Breech
chambers but does not eject round, recoil spring based, traverse and
elevation work as original.

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Original Emden gun sans breech

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Krupp gun on the SS Graf von Goetzen, Lake Tanganyika

 

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Close ups of the model

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Thanks to Robert for sending these great photographs and commentary.   I have seen photos of some other of Robert’s superb model engineering, and look forward to publishing them on this blog.

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SMS Emden 1914

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HMAS Sydney

 

6″ Vertical Boiler, Triple Expansion Steam Engine and Southworth Pump, all working together. Fairly well.

2 videos of the triple and the vertical boiler and the Southworth boiler feed pump working together for the first time.  Not perfectly yet, but working.

 

A VIDEO GIMBAL

A gimbal is a device which keeps an object on a steady horizontal level, even as its support moves and tilts.   Such as a ship’s compass.

Hand held videos often show unwanted evidence of movements due to shaking, walking or distractions.

Expensive gimbals have been available to professionals for a long time.  Recently gimbals have become much less expensive, and available to people shooting videos on smart phones, mirrorless cameras, and DSLR’s.

The following video was shot on my iphone, without a gimbal, but about a gimbal, which I recently purchased.  The video is brief, and not intended to be anything but a glimpse.  To be honest, there is a bit of a learning curve with the gimbal, and I am just beginning.

I hope that it will help to improve my video shoots.

ZHIYUN CRANE M2

34 degrees. Is it summer already?

A beautiful spring morning became blustery, windy, hot yesterday.  But I hardly noticed.  I was in the workshop making these small steam pipe connectors.

Normally I would buy these fittings, because they are fiddly to make and not very expensive, but I have fitted new rings to the triple expansion engine, and I want to try it out on the vertical boiler.  (see the previous post)

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one of the tails was not drilled deep enough.

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I needed only 2 of these nipple-tail-nut assemblies, but having made a jig to fit the collet chuck it was just as easy to make some extras for future use.

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The jig is required because having made one end of the nipple, it must be turned around to make the other end and there is not enough material to hold in the 3 jaw chuck.  So the jig holds the workpiece by the first made thread, and the piece is finished by holding it in the collet chuck.   The jig will be saved for future use.  It has external threads for  5/16″x32 and 3/8″x32, and internal threads for 1/4″x40 and 5/16″x32.

The tiny tails were drilled in 2 stages because there is an internal step, and the outer shape was CNC’d.

 

 

Thinking about future exhibitions….

Still recovering from The Royal Geelong Show, where my beam engine and the Trevithick      dredger engine ran for ~8 hours per day for 4 days, and required almost constant supervision. I was very pleased that they did so without a problem.

For future exhibitions I would like to also run the triple expansion steam engine using the vertical boiler, for which I recently made the Southworth boiler feed pump.  And there are occasions where I might run the triple and the beam engine together from the vertical boiler.  That arrangement will occupy a fair bit of bench space, and in this post I am considering options for the arrangement.

But first, I needed a steam outlet manifold to handle multiple engines, simultaneously, and hopefully to avoid a big tangle of pipes.  Here is the manifold.

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The manifold has 6 x ¼” outlets and one 3/8″  outlet.    

Option one lines up the boiler and engine like this….

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Option two is more compact, but ?less appealing.  Pics following..

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The lump of wood under the engine is temporary,  just to give an idea of the heights.

OK, this post is just an excuse to show some pics.  I have decided to go with option one.  It is closer to the appearance if the boiler and engine were actually in a boat, and also will make it easier to add the beam engine to the right of the boiler if/when I run the two engines simultaneously.

And I doubt that I will be able to avoid a jumble of pipework.  The triple has 6 pipes attached, the boiler has more, then there is the beam engine.  And, I will need a water container from which to feed the boiler.  That will be located behind the boiler.  Still considering whether it should be a squarish box on a stand like the railway water towers, or a cylinder on a low stand.   Any thoughts?

 

 

 

Royal Geelong Show 2019

The “Show” was held over the last 4 days.  I will not bang on again about my republican leanings.  See posts from previous years if that persuasion is of any interest.  The weather was ordinary.  Quite a few showers and blustery wind.  But we were mostly warm in the Vintage Machinery shed where our Model Machinery cage is located.  Fairly good visitor numbers, but not much real interest in our model engine offerings.

I exhibited my beam engine and Trevithick dredger engines, both running on piped steam.  The vertical boiler and feed pump was on static display, of no interest to anyone.  My Stirling engine got the most attention from kids, who are attracted by the swirling spiral colours, and not much interest in the intriguing method of running.  I am convinced that models must be moving, colourful, and have some relation to what people and kids see on television if they are to have any traction with the public.

But, the model and full size engine exhibitors enjoyed the displays, and an occasional visitor engaged in conversation.  Here are some pics and videos of some of the shed displays.  There dog shows, bird breeding, monster trucks,  horse riding events, cattle and sheep judging, and side show rides but these were not recorded by me.   I did visit the Amateur Astronomy display, and will visit the workshop of one of the exhibitors soon.

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I had applied wooden lagging to the beam engine cylinder

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Steam for the engines is provided from this Package Boiler at 25psi.   Enough to turn them over.  Capable of much higher pressures.

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Cage Bench North includes the Trevithick dredger model, the beam engine and the Stirling engine.

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Cage Bench South.  Swen Pettig’s prize winning flame gulper, and 1″ Minnie under construction.

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Stuart and Swen ?discussing engine repairs.

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Model Engineering first prize!

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And the full size triple expansion engine.  The Vintage Machinery boiler is being upgraded, so there was insufficient steam to run the triple.

 

 

Boiler Feed Pump Pumping

Yesterday I reseated the pump valves, reassembled the pump, then tested it on steam.

Most of the following video has the boiler at only 25psi, but I did run it off camera at up to 75psi.

After making the video I redirected the exhaust steam from the pump into the firebox.  It actually seemed to improve the gas flame, maybe by acting as a blower.  Not so sure about this being permanent though, because the exhaust steam contains oil from the displacement oiler, and I dont want that oil to be deposited in the firetubes.

I will make a water tank to supply boiler water.  Maybe the exhaust steam could be passed through a heat exchanger in the tank, so the boiler feed water is preheated.

(if the video is not showing, click on the https link below)

 

First Steam for Boiler Feed Pump

 

 

 

Workshop with security

Every time that I open my workshop I wonder if it will have been robbed.  So far, I have had unsecured implements which are stored outside, stolen, and an attempt at stealing my Landcruiser ute, but no breaking and entering of the workshop itself.  Mind you, any thief would have a tough time working out what to take…   everything is scattered around, sitting where I last used it.  And then there are the tiger snakes….

Reader Brendan has a couple of guard dogs for his workshop when he is not present.

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They might not look too scary, but they do make a hell of a racket when a stranger approaches.

And Brendan’s workshop is not all in one location.  I counted 5 separate locations….

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The computer room and security monitor.  Mostly CAD and G codes here.

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The laser cutter occupies the entry porch.   See the backing board pattern?  That is from the gasket for my Trevithick engine.

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Then the main workshop.  Hmm… what is that red thing?

Brendan bearing press

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2 lathes in the garage.  Hafco with DRO, and CNC with Siemens controller.

Meanwhile, in my workshop…

I am taking some of my stuff to an exhibition at the Royal Geelong Show in a week.  The beam engine working on steam always gets some interest.   And the Trevithick dredger engine has not featured at this event before, so that can go.   I am currently working on the vertical boiler.   The Southworth Duplex pump which is attached to the boiler, was working on air, but it refused on steam, so another tear down is due.  If I can get it going that will be the third entry.  If not, well, there is always next year.   Fortunately Keith Appleton recently produced some videos on the Southworths, one of which had a similar problem, so I think that I know where my problem is.

Incidentally,  I showed the beam engine, the Trevithick, and the boiler at an exhibition in Melbourne last weekend.   Mostly well received.  But I had a succession of people who said of the beam engine “very nice.  Except for the cap screws.”  When it reached 6 separate commenters on the same theme I was starting to suspect a conspiracy from these rivet counters.   Yes it does have cap screws as the main fasteners.  And no, they are not true to the period (late 19th century).  But I quite liked the look of them.  But, one does prefer approval in preference to criticism, and after this concerted barrage of criticism, I relented, and spent a couple of workshop sessions swapping out the cap screws for studs with hex nuts.

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The before.  With cap screws.

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After the upgrade with studs and hex nuts.  Was it worth the 2 workshop sessions?

Sometime soon I will paint parts of this engine, and apply wooden lagging to the cylinder.

 

 

A Workshop as Dark, Messy, and Dirty as Mine! Well, almost.

These shots were sent in by reader Russ, from Tasmania.  He reckons that he will tidy up the shop after retirement…. Ha!   Little does he know, that there is less spare time after stopping work…  there is so much other fun stuff to do.

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Is that a Porsche 924 or 928?

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No!  Much better! It is a Jensen Interceptor Mk 1. Love that aesthetic rear window.   Beautiful Tasmanian landscape.  Number plate ablated by me.

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Now that is a real man-cave!

I think that I still win the prize for the messiest, dirtiest, darkest workshop, but Russ comes in a close second.  Note that Russ is a busy surgeon.  Hmmm.

 

 

Mounting the Boiler Feed Pump

Today I mounted the Southworth boiler feed pump on the boiler base, then started on the pipework.  Nothing is tested yet, but it is looking interesting IMO.

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The Southworth pump, located behind the hand pump.

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The steam supply pipe on the left, and the water delivery pipe on the right.  The hand pump and the Southworth pump deliver water to separate clack valves on the boiler.  There is yet another clack valve in case I ever add an injector.  The water supply tank and connections are yet to be added.   I am not planning to install a bypass.  Note the displacement oiler for the valve chest.

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I tried a new trick to bend the pipes for this installation.  I read about this somewhere.  Bent a piece of wire to use as a pattern when bending and cutting the copper pipe.   Worked a treat!

Looking forward to firing up the boiler and testing the boiler feed pump on steam.  If it works OK there will be a video.

 

Boiler Feed Pump -Working

I could not induce my Southworth steam powered boiler feed pump to work.

Initially I thought that it was a bit tight, and spent time easing the glands, and slightly deepening the O ring grooves.  That took a couple of days.  But no luck.

So today I took it to our model engineering meeting, with some tools to perform a tear down, and 2 of our senior members took a close look.  After some to-ing and fro-ing, the verdict was that I had reversed one of the steam passage blocks, and machined it back to front.  I had mis-interpreted the plans.  It was due to not really knowing the rules for rotating a part in 3rd angle plans.  Pretty annoying.  A 3d view of the part would have removed any confusion.  Fortunately the fix was not too complicated.  2 threaded holes to fill, and 2 new holes to drill and thread on the other side.

That done, I re-assembled the steam engine side of the duplex.  Hooked up a compressed air hose, and see the result….

This is on approx 10psi air.  There is no load, so it is running faster than it would if actually pumping water under pressure.

Next I will mount it to the boiler base, and hook up the pipes.  Then there will probably be another video.

Workshop in the Deep North of Oz. North Queensland.

This one is interesting.  It is located in the basement of a multi storey apartment building,  in the centre of a major city, and occupies a car parking space.  It is screened off from the other car parking spaces, with security mesh and visual blocking.

In the photos you will see some of Peter’s projects.  Woodworking, kids toys, and metalworking.  Peter also is involved in model railways.

Nice to see some mess.  Must be genetic.

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Nice bandsaw!  I wonder what the bell is used for.  Maybe to warn the other apartment occupants that Peter is about to fire up some machinery.

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Heavy duty lathe.

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It is obviously used!

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A grand daughter will be very happy with that!

Thanks for those photos Peter.  It is interesting to see another workshop in confined space.  I do wonder how the other apartment occupants respond to woodworking thicknesser noise.

Next Tool Project…A CNC Laser Cutter

The Southworth steam powered boiler feed pump has many gaskets.  I have not counted them, but there must be 15-20.  All with many 2mm and 4mm  holes.

And in the process of making the machine, I have broken quite a few of them with the multiple assemblies and tear downs.

But, fortunately, 2 of the members of my model engineering club have laser CNC cutters, so extra sets of gaskets has not been an impossible ask.  (Thank you Brendan and Stuart!)

So, some time ago I asked Stuart, if it would be possible to attach a laser cutter to the CNC mill.  His initial answer was NO.  But recently, he changed his tune.   He attached a laser head to his 3D printed CNC mill and started producing gaskets on request!   So, as is a recent pattern, I am walking in Stuart’s footsteps, and I have purchased a 15 watt laser head on Ebay.   Chinese of course.

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This is the kit.   Cost $AuD146.

Laser head

And this is the 15w laser head.  Now I have to work out how to attach it to my mill.  Shouldn’t be too difficult, as long as I don’t turn on the spindle while it is attached.

 

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My CNC mill, during the electronics upgrade.  Most recent photo.   Soon to have a laser head.

Stuart assures me that Mach3 can be configured to operate the laser….   turn it on and off, move the axes at an appropriate speed, etc.  I think that some trickery is involved.

And future gaskets will be as simple as ….

So watch this space .

Southworth Steam Boiler Feed Pump Progress.

With book reviews and OP’s workshops on this blog you might be wondering if anything is happening in MY workshop.

Well, yes.

I have been beavering away, making parts for the Southworth steam powered boiler water feed pump.  Today I made the final parts.  The machining has been fairly basic and straightforward, so no special photos or videos.

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These are the parts and assemblies.  Top is the steam cylinders left, the water cylinders right.  The water pump stack not attached.  The the tails for the valve rods, the valve rods with valves attached, the cylinder caps, the valve rod levers, and some of the gaskets.

I will make a separate blog about the gaskets.  These were all laser cut.  I will never hand cut another gasket.  Laser cutting is cheap, fast and accurate.  Way to go!

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The valve levers and fittings.   These are small, precise, and accurate.  Quite a pain to make, even with CNC.  I remade more than one of these, due to dropping and losing the original.  The fasteners are M2, and not finalised.  The off centre drilling of the left hand fitting is of no consequence (I hope).

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The valve rods, M2.5, and valves.  Cutting those threads, 2.5mm diameter and 25mm long, was also a challenge.  I learnt about fixed steadies, but too late to use on this job.  Subject for a future blog.

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And some of the cylinder end caps.  There are 8 altogether.

So now that all of the parts/components are made, I will commence the assembly, then the timing of the steam engine component.  Watch this space.

Book review of “A Military History of China” coming up soon.  Quite an eye opener.

If you have not sent in photos of your workspace, please do so.  The series has generated quite a lot of interest.

 

A European Workshop

Most of the workshop pictures so far have come from Australia, and one from UK.  This one is from Holland, sorry Huib, the Netherlands.

Interesting differences.  Huib built his own workshop, and he has some nice gear.  All of these photos came upside-down.  Funny how they consider Oz to be “down-under”.  Obviously their reference points are wrong. THEY are the upside-down ones.  I mean, we are walking upright, right?  They must be upside-down!

 

Hello John,

Here finally my contribution to your workshop series, as always I might want to show and share too much with others, that’s why I want you to show  what you can support and is in line with the possibilities you have on your blog. 

See if you can make one blog part of it or cut it into pieces. That’s up to you. I transfer the pictures with WE TRANSFER to you, as it is right you got a mail with the link to download the pictures.

It looks like the pictures that it is all clean and tidy maybe but appearances are deceptive, most of the time it’s not so tidy for me either, for the pictures I cleaned it up.

I have tried to be as complete as possible but if there are any questions please let me know.

I built the barn myself, so as the floor plan was drawn. First I built room 1 which is completely isolated and where I can work during the winter, there are also the most expensive machines. 

Later on I built room 2, to store also the wood for the stove. Finally, 5 years ago I built room 3, the largest room where also other things are stored as only hobby stuff, also our bikes and everthing els.

Room 1 is the room where I stay most in, coarse work I do room 2, such as sawing, sanding and coarse drilling.  In room 3 I mainly do business that need some space, the large, homemade workbench is a good tool for that. And as you can see, I can’t throw anything away and I keep everything I think of that can be useful in the next hundred years.

The photos contain references to the machine and the space where they are located.

I hope you like the total information.

Kindest regards

Huib

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The thing about Holland, is that they HAVE to make the world’s best pumps.  Otherwise they are under water.  Much of the country is below sea level.

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Now, that is nice!

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Ahhh!

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Ahhhhhh!

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Nice!  But I will stick with CNC.

Huib also sent a video of his steam plant.  Unfortunately I do not have the space to post it, but if Huib can remember the YouTube address I will include that later.

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Storage is always a problem no?

So, thank you Huib, for sharing your workplace with us.  It is very interesting to see how other model engineers work, and their equipment.  I have posted only a fraction of Huib’s photos, due to space limitations.    I hope that the chosen shots are of interest to my readers.

ps.  Huib, I found the YouTube video…Very nice work!

 

Book Review. Battleship Bismarck. A Design and Operational History.

No hesitation about this one.  It is magnificent.  A big, expensive, superb book.  Very detailed.  Lots of photographs, maps, diagrams, plans, tables.  And written by people who really know their subject.  All naval architects.  Very readable, but probably not in one session.  In fact, I have read it, selecting sections almost at random, then finding it very difficult to put down.

Here is my official review.

 

BATTLESHIP BISMARCK-  A Design and Operational History

By William Garzke, Robert Dulin and William Jurens.

 

This superb book, IMO, is destined to become THE authoritative account of conception, design, building, brief naval history and destruction of one of the most famous ships ever.  Written by expert naval architects, the 610 pages of double column text are illustrated by many original photographs, maps, and diagrams.

 

I suppose that some people will read it cover to cover, but I found myself being drawn initially into the design and building of the massive battleship.  In a later reading session, I read the incredibly moving accounts of the German survivors.  And in another session, the sinking of the Hood.   Then, not necessarily sequentially, the chapters leading to the discovery of Bismarck, the disabling of the rudders, and the final, fatal confrontation with the vengeful Royal Navy.

 

Recently we have been treated to magnificent Seaforth publications of books of plans of warships Helgoland, the Repulse and others.  I confess that I was slightly disappointed that similar detailed plans of the Bismarck were not included in this publication, but I understand that there are limits.  Perhaps a separate book?

 

Congratulations to the authors and publishers of this magnificent work, which I am delighted to add to my library.

Some pics of the book.

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At £55 it IS expensive.  But in this case you get what you pay for.

Seaforth Publishing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another John’s Workshop.

Now this is a workshop where I would feel at home…..

“Hi John some photo’s attached.

I work in my double garage 56 square meters. I have been self employed for the last 30 years but have reached the stage where I want to retire, some of my customers still send me jobs to do which I cannot say no to so it keeps the hobby going.
I have a Bridgeport copy converted to 4 axis CNC running Mach3 using MachStdMill screen set (love it).
My lathe is a Prototrak SLX on a King Rich lathe bed ( toolroom quality).
Misc other machines small surface grinder,tool & cutter grinder, compressor, 15 tonne press, bandsaw,welding gear electric & oxy acetylene, overhead crane ( 250kg capacity )
I am running out of space.
I am close to finishing my boiler will send some photo’s soon.
Cheers
John”
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Thanks for the pics John.  A bit of gear envy happening here.  Love the gantry!

Workshop Photos. Are all Modellers Obsessive -Compulsive Neat Freaks?

I am starting to regret asking for the workshop photos.  Another reader, John, has sent in photos of his super organised, super clean workshop.  We must admit that it looks quite inviting,….

and fairly safe, unlike my disorganised dirty mess.

Here are the photos.   Somewhere in Oz.

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And some notes from John….

“Thought you and possibly your readers might enjoy some pics of my ‘shop. All crammed into a two car garage! I really am running out of space and have to try and be as efficient as possible in that regard . Note the ladders etc hung on brackets from the ceiling in one of the pics. I also have an anvil and coke forge outside, plus materials, bolts and the like stored in one of the garden sheds outside the workshop.

A few notes to go:

103350 my ML7 Myford lathe lives behind the large red tool chest which is handily placed to mill and lathes. Parts washer (green lid) to right of pic, under cloth foreground is completed riding trailer to go behind current long term project 2 ½ “ Burrell traction engine. In welding area, BOC Industrial MIG, Unimig plasma cutter sitting on top, orange cabinet is sand blaster. Note also the copper pipes across the ceiling – they run across and back to help cool the air and dehumidify, with droppers and drain cocks at various locations, plus there’s two inline filters (one to 3 micron) to help ensure dry air for spray painting and sand blasting.

103407 ac/dcTIG, folder/g’tine/rolls (blue in corner), new welding/fab bench frames under construction on floor by current welding bench.

103450 press, tool and cutter grinder, bandsaw, oxy, compressor.

103575 mill, drill press and two grinders/linisher.

103558 ML7 – my first lathe

103633 bench area, tall grey cabinet holds lots of gear – taps, dies, tooling, roatab, dividing head etc etc

104041 recent mods to compressor to quieten the beast using an old Holden red motor air cleaner. Replaces the small plastic jobbies that screw into the heads. It’s been quite effective.”

So, thank you John, for further magnifying my inferiority complex regarding workshop organisation.  And I know that these machines are put to work, making a traction engine, and currently a beam engine.  Plus a full time job, unlike this retired medico who has time to kill.

Dear readers, if anyone has a dirty, disorganised, dark workshop, please send me some photos.  It will do wonders for my self esteem.

 

 

Bad Paint Job

As I reported on Sep 3, I was recovering from a decent dose of influenza, and feeling a need to do something after almost 2 weeks of inactivity, and I decided to put some more paint on the Trevithick dredger engine.  After all, what could go wrong?   Just a bit of gentle painting.

I was quite proud of the job.  No paint spills.  No brush marks on neighbouring items.  No brush hairs in the work, and minimal brush marks.

I wondered how long I would need to wait between coats, so I checked the paint tin.

O shit!   I had used the wrong paint….

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I had used the epoxy enamel instead of the high temperature resistant Pot Belly Black!  The brain had apparently not recovered fully from the ‘flu.

I decided to sleep on the problem.  Checked with my resident paint expert (SWMBO), and on her suggestion, next day applied some mineral turpentine.  The paint was dry, but the turps did seem to soften it.  So I applied some more turps, then attacked the epoxy paint with a rag.

To my delight, it mostly came off.  I was not too bothered by the paint in the deep cracks…. that could be a filler.

Then I carefully dried everything, another rub with clean rags, and applied another coat.  This time using the correct paint.  2 coats.

Reader Huib asked how it had all eventuated, so today I took some pics of the engine in its current home…  our kitchen.  The budgerigars are SWMBO’s decorative touch.

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The kitchen is due for a renovation.  I made those cupboards and benches 30 years ago.

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But the paint job looks ok hey?

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Another view.  In the background is a painting of a dog training group in the grounds of the MCG, by Samantha Lord.

Hey readers (male and female), waiting for more workshop photos to post.  It doesn’t have to be the whole workshop…. just a photo of your favourite machine would be great!

The Boer War. A Book Review. Excellent!

THE ANGLO-BOER WAR IN 100 OBJECTS

 

After reading this book, cover to cover, in 2 days, I felt that I had a real grasp of the reality of the 1899-1902 war which so shaped South Africa’s history. I now realise that my previous knowledge of the war was very sketchy.

 

The 100 iconic objects which are held in the War Museum of the Boer Republics, and 200 other objects, maps, and many photographs, are beautifully presented in this high quality book of 260 pages.  The story of each object is told in short essay style by gifted, expert writers.

 

The many subjects include battles, weapons, military personalities, politicians, places, civilians, equipment, prisoners of war, concentration camps, costs of the war, and longer term outcomes.

 

The book does not glorify the Anglo-Boer War.  If anything, it is an anti-war treatise.  It certainly has had a major impact on this reviewer.

 

Thoroughly recommended.

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Southworth Steam/Water Pump

I am progressing my Southworth pump.   Today, Stuart brought his completed version, so I photographed the incomplete and complete versions together.   Actually, it was very useful to see Stuart’s pump again.  An obvious difference in one of the components made me realise that I had made a mistake.   Now rectified.

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My incomplete version and the working version.

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Stuart’s working version.

Three more workshops. Why are they all so neat? Or am I just very messy?

Reader Tim from NSW, Oz, sent these pics

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Optimum mill, Chicago compressor “very quiet”,  Myford Super 7 lathe, drill press.

 

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Optimum 6″lathe, drop band saw, linisher.   Plenty of light.  No swarf on the floor (no snakes apparently).

And from Victoria Oz,  Neil sent these shots of his workshop, with some work in progress visible…

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Reading Neil’s signs reminds me of a sign which I saw on someone else’s mill or lathe… “Not to be operated by fuckwits”.   Maybe I should put up such a sign on in my workshop, but then, it might invite comments about the current occupant.

And finally, my friend and mentor Stuart’s workshop…

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This is Stuart’s kitchen, which he is putting to the best use!   Note the laser cutter, which will cut metal up to 1mm thick, and the optical comparator.   But does the laser slice the toast, Stuart?

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Stuart’s actual workshop is the garage.  The car, very sensibly has been expelled to the outside.  Note the Boxford CNC lathe (the same as my Boxford CNC lathe), and the old green manual lathe on the back wall, still gets a lot of use.  Disgustingly neat and clean.   Starting to get a complex about this.

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And in the other direction is Stuart’s CNC mill (blue base), CNC router on the bench.

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And finally, I decided to add a shot of the spare bedroom in my home.  Note the Boxford CNC lathe,

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This is the spare bedroom in my house.  You are welcome to stay, after moving some stuff.

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My Boxford CNC lathe in the spare bedroom.  Well, no-one comes to stay very often!

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Another view of the spare bedroom.  2 Boley jeweller’s lathes.  They do occasionally get used.

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And another view of the spare bedroom.  Plenty of bedtime reading.  And another jeweller’s lathe in case you get the urge in the middle of the night.

So there you are.   Please send your photos of your heaven on Earth.

 

 

TWO WORKSHOPS

This post was inspired by one of my readers sending me some photos of her workshop.  The photos grabbed my attention for several reasons.

Firstly, the metal working machines share the space with tomatoes!  Unusual, eclectic use of the space.  Secondly, the roof and walls are made of glass!   Great for natural lighting, and nice views for the machinist, and possibly the neighbours.  Thirdly, it is such a small space, requiring planning to accomodate quite a few machines and work space.   And fourthly, it is so neat and clean.  I do see an occasional bit of swarf, but it is so unlike the mess that I work in, that it is quite striking to see such a clean workshop.

Thanks to reader Jennifer for sending these photos.  For obvious reasons I will not publish further location details except to reveal that the location is in the UK.

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Jennifer tells me that it is all double glazed, and is open to the living area of the house, so it is heated.  Apparently it never becomes too hot in summer.

And as a complete antithesis, this is my main workshop in Oz.  Bigger, messier, dirtier, darker.    Actually, when I looked over my photos I could not find one decent view of my workshop, so I took some new pics.  Needless to say, there was no special tidying for the photo.

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It is a tin shed, unlined, but does have a wood heater.  This view takes in about 2/3 of the area.  There are 3 lathes in this shot.  Can you see them?  CNC lathe in foreground.  Also my CNC mill on the right.  There is also a tool and cutter grinder, vertical bandsaw, drop bandsaw.  And lots of ancillary tooling.

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And a pedestal drill, 2 linishers, grinder, and part view of the drop band saw.  The anvil gets quite a lot of use.  It is mounted on heavy duty wheels so I can take it to the job.

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My workbench in the foreground, A very heavy cast iron setup table (blue) with granite surface plate.  Shop made ring roller centre.

So, that is where I spend most of my waking hours.  The shed started life as a farm workshop, where a lot of welding, and repair and maintenance of farm machinery was done.   These days it is mainly used for model engineering.  In my working life I was an obsessively neat, organised and particular surgeon.  Not quite sure how my activities ended in this mess.  But you know what?… I feel totally comfortable here.

 

 

If you have some photos of your own workshop area, please send them in and I will publish them for the interest of other readers.  Big areas, small areas, old machines or new.  Show us where you spend your most enjoyable hours.   Send them to me at jviggers@iinet.net.au

 

 

 

 

Fit after 9 day influenza?

Today is the first day since I became sick that I have felt able to drive.  Until today I have been experiencing coughing paroxysms, severe headaches, dizzy episodes, even 2 episodes of hallucinations which were really weird.  Also requiring pain killers regularly.

My GP thinks that I have had influenza A, despite vaccination earlier in the year.  Certainly the nastiest bug which I have encountered in many years.

But as today warmed up, and I had not required any analgesics, and the coughing was settling, I decided to visit my workshop.   “Visit”, rather than operate machines.  I suspected that my mental faculties were not yet 100%.   It is a 20-25″ drive to my workshop, so off I went.

I was pleased to note that my neighbour had mowed the grass around my sheds.  It had become quite thick and high, and with the warmer spring weather today, I was not looking forward to walking through the thigh high vegetation which could conceal nasty poisonous fauna.  The neighbour has long term loan of my tractor and slasher, and the quid pro quo is that I get my grass mowed whenever required.

So what to do, not requiring turning on potentially dangerous machines?  I decided to look at the Trevithick dredger engine.  It has been waiting for some painting.  That would not be too arduous or too dangerous!

The engine end of the boiler was waiting for some flat black paint.  So I removed some appendages, filed and wire brushed the surfaces, and washed them down with mineral turps.  Found the paint, stirred it thoroughly, and carefully applied it with some small, new brushes.

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The engine end of the machine, with one coat of the flat black applied.  Hmm…. I don’t remember it going streaky like that before…..   Maybe the second coat will look better.

I used the paint to touch up some other areas also.

Then as I was cleaning up, before going home I took another look at the paint can.

O shit!  I had used the wrong paint can!

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I should have used the “Pot Belly Black”.  Somehow, I picked up the other one.  The “Rust Guard Epoxy Enamel” is good paint, but it might not tolerate the surface temperatures of the boiler.   And an etch primer is recommended for it, which would explain my application problem.

So what to do?   I know that most of you will be screaming at the screen, to strip off the epoxy paint and start again.  But, for better or for worse I have decided to apply another coat of epoxy tomorrow and see if the appearance improves.  I expect that it will.  Then a trial firing in a few days will demonstrate whether the epoxy will cope with the temperatures.  If it copes…. fine.  It is well away from the furnace.   If not, then a very time consuming strip job and repainting will be in order.

It seems that my mentation has not fully recovered.

Houseguests

Just to explain the long interval between posts.

About a week ago I felt a bit off, headachey, but I had just driven through Melbourne peak hour traffic, so was not too concerned.

But the next day my head was going to explode, my chest ached, my skin was painful, and I was experiencing chills and sweats.   That has all continued.  I assume it is a viral infection, but it is taking longer than usual to start resolving.   And now I have started persistent coughing.  Might have to see the quack.

So I have not been in the workshop for a week.  And I am getting a bit bored.

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They are eating a banana handed to them by my wife.  The baby came out of its mothers pouch about 2 months ago.   If the baby is a female, she will become part of the house fauna.  If male, he will be booted out at when about 12 months age.

No, they do not have names.  But they do come down when my wife calls “possum, possum”.

We have encouraged this family for many of their generations by not frightening them, and feeding them.    Possums live in many Australian roof spaces.  They are difficult to keep out, and it is illegal to remove them further than the confines of the property.   So trapping and removal is usually temporary.

They entertain us, and visitors.   Never cause bother.  Well, almost never…   they found a way into our pantry once, and raided every open packet of cereal, raisins, etc., throwing the unwanted packages onto the floor.   We just looked at the mess and laughed.

 

 

Southworth Steam Pump- first parts

A couple of days in the workshop, and the large castings are almost fully machined.  Straightforward machining.   Made a couple of mistakes, but none fatal.  Changing BA fasteners to metric.

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The steam cylinders block in the mill vise.   Almost complete water cylinders block sitting behind for the photo.

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Steam cylinders on right, water cylinders on left.  The temporary steel pins are to ensure accurate alignment of the 2 blocks.   Water and steam passages come later. 

This is the first model machining which I have done since April.  It should be second nature, but I admit to a bit of hesitation, nervousness, initially.  Especially starting on an irregular, slightly complicated shape like these.   But it is all coming back now.  And I am really enjoying it.

Steam Powered Water Feed Pump

My CNC mill is now mostly functioning, although several functions are yet to be connected.  The main spindle and XY&Z axes are working, and responding appropriately to Mach3 commands from the laptop computer.  It has taken longer than anticipated so far, mainly due to difficulty in understanding manuals supplied from Asia.   Axis limit and homing switches, oil pump, coolant pump, work light, and cooling fans still to be connected.

So there has been little of general interest coming out of my workshop.  Hence no posts on this site.  Not that I have been idle.

I disassembled the top slide on the Colchester lathe to discover the cause for excessive back-lash.  It was a worn acme thread bronze nut.   No luck yet in finding a new nut for this 45 year old lathe.   I will have to make one.  Meanwhile, I used a quick and dirty trick to reduce the back-lash which I will detail soon.

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The top-slide acme screw and bronze nut which needs replacing.

I also cleaned and freed up a 3 jaw 10″ chuck which I bought on Ebay.  It was frozen solid, so I soaked it in kerosene bath for a few months.  Actually, I forgot all about it while it was in the kerosene, and accidentally rediscovered it.   This time, after using an impact screwdriver, I was able to open it up and expose the gears and get them moving.  Might be worth a photo also.

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The 240mm diameter chuck.  I was tempted to buy by the removable, reversible  jaws.  Thinking that I could make some soft jaws.   Trouble is that it is an industrial production line chuck with very little movement.   But it is nice and tight.  Still deciding.  At least I can wind the jaws in and out a bit now.

And I finally got around to installing piston rings in the triple expansion steam engine.  Used Viton O-rings.  Not a difficult task, and it should not be difficult to replace them from time to time in future.   Will be interesting to see if the engine performance improves.

Now to get onto my next project.  I have plans and bronze castings for a Southworth design water pump, for replenishing the vertical boiler water while it is in use.  It was a surprise to me, just how much water is consumed by a boiler which is powering a model steam engine.  To date I have used a hand pump, but having seen a steam powered pump in action, I have decided to make one.

The steam is supplied from the boiler which is being replenished.  The pump has to use steam at boiler steam pressure, to force water into the boiler.  So the pump has to raise the pressure of the feed water above the pressure of the steam which is powering the pump.   The clever pump design uses large steam driven pistons to drive smaller water pump pistons.

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Larger steam pistons top right 5/8″ dia,  water pistons bottom left 3/8″ dia.

Here is a video of a Southworth pump in action.  It was made by Stuart Tankard.  Here it is running on compressed air, but I have seen it working similarly on steam.  I will be making one of the same design, hopefully approaching this level of finish.

 

 

A build of larger version of the pump was described by J. Bertinat in  a series of articles “Model Engineer” in 1993 (first article 18 June 1993).

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The unmachined castings.  Lumps of rough bronze.   And the plans.

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One of the castings after preliminary machining to establish some faces.  The “water cylinders” block.   Part no. 6

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Good quality castings.

 

 

CNC Mill Upgrade -8

Fitted the new VSD Friday.  Ordered Tues pm.  Arrived Thurs am.  Impressive.

$AUD315, inc shipping.   Job cost is mounting.  Still within reasonable limits.

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The old VSD, top right.  The axis controllers (top left) had not been wired when this photo was taken.

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The new VSD (variable speed drive) 4kw.  Fitted neatly with some new mounting holes, without any drama.  The rats nest looks less daunting every day.

Now, except for the main spindle motor, there are no more original major electrical components.  All have been updated and replaced, along with the cables.

Yet to be wired are the VSD, coolant pump, oil feed pump, limit switches, homing switches, and the Gecko driver and 48v power supply for the rotary table.   But the mill is useable now.   Video coming up soon.

 

CNC Mill Upgrade – 7.

2 steps forward, 1 step back.   That’s what this project is experiencing.

The axis servo motors, their controllers and connections to power, breakout boards, and computer connections are complete, and all working.

An old laptop has found a use.  Installed Mach3, Vectric V-Carve Pro.   And the connections to the Smooth Stepper board.  Windows 10.   Deleted all non CNC related programs to gain space on the hard drive.

A problem with the main spindle.  It is essentially unchanged from the original.  Same motor (4kw/5hp 3 phase), same VSD, and same 3 phase power which is supplied through a phase changer, because the property has only 2 phases supplied.  When powered up, it worked, but the RPM’s could not be altered from a very slow rate.  The controlling voltage from the breakout board was not changing despite changing the inputs.  ? due to a problem with the settings, or a faulty BOB.  Didn’t seem serious.

So I was a bit surprised when later I switched on the mill, intending to change some settings, to hear 2 significant pops, and to smell that disgusting burnt electrical component smell, with smoke coming from the electrical enclosure.

Quickly shut everything down, and waited for the cavalry to arrive.

Stuart found that a 24v power supply had failed.  No big deal.  Not an expensive component.  Maybe got a short circuit from a bit of swarf?   But further inspection revealed that the VSD had also failed.  A capacitor and diode burnt out.  ? caused by a surge from the failing power supply? Repairable, but I decided to buy a new VSD.  The failed VSD is probably as old as the mill (24 years), so it had a pretty good run.  If the old VSD is repairable, it will serve as a spare.

Meanwhile, as a consequence, the main spindle is not working.  I have a list of jobs that I want to get into, particularly the steam pump for the vertical boiler.   So I will reattach the high speed spindle and use that.  It is 2.2kw, but uses high revs to develop power, so I will be limited to small end mills and drills, until the new components (VSD and power supply) arrive.  The high speed spindle is single phase, and the speed control is manually selected.   Not quite as convenient but useable for the time being.

While Stuart has his head buried in the electrical enclosure, I have been his gopher and TA.  But also fitting in a couple of other jobs which have been on the “to do” list for ages.  Like clearing out rubbish from the workshop, tidying up etc.

One task which has been vexing me, was to remove a sheet of flooring board which was under the Colchester lathe.  The sheet was originally placed under the lathe to protect the vinyl floor covering, but it was not a good decision.  As the flooring board became wet with cutting oil and coolant, it would swell and shrink, and I was aware that the lathe levels and settings were changing.  So I decided to remove the sheet of flooring, and let the lathe feet sit directly on steel pads on the vinyl/concrete floor.

But how to remove the sheet of flooring from underneath the almost 1 ton lathe?  The lathe was originally placed into its rather tight position with a forklift, which is no longer available.  The wooden sheet was the same size as the base of the lathe.

So I made these…

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The bolt adjusts the height of the jack.

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From a piece of scrap I-beam.

I used a crow bar to raise the corners of the lathe enough to place the jacks into position.  A bit of trial and error to get the heights correct.    When the lathe was about 25mm clear of the flooring, I pulled the sheet out.  Then used the crowbar to remove the jacks, and lower the lathe onto its base plates.

I will reset the lathe’s screw feet in the next day or 2, using a precision level and test cuts.  There was an excellent YouTube video by “This Old Tony” on the subject recently.

 

CNC Mill Upgrade – 6. Where to put the computer?

Not much more to report today, but I have decided how to position the computer.

Not easy, because the computer needs to be protected from flying swarf and coolant spray from the CNC mill and the manual mill which is immediately adjacent.    And I want the computer to be close to the machine.  The CNC mill is NOT in an enclosure.

So this is what I have decided….

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The laptop is just low enough to reach while standing.   The E stop and other buttons are underneath.

And if the swarf is really flying, I can turn the PC away…

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Might need some adjustments.  The laptop is an old Dell ATG.   Said to be resistant to fluids and relatively resistant to shock/vibration etc.   Military specs.   I might add some side protection and perhaps a roof.

 

 

CNC Mill Upgrade -5

I have been putting quite a few hours into the upgrade, but not much to show photographically.

Finally got the new servo motors installed.  Replaced the X axis belt.  The most difficult servo to access was the Y axis, and of course that was the only one where the alignment of the timing belt was out.   Finally sorted by using a fibre optic camera to see why the belt was climbing onto the flange of the pulley.  The pulley was 1.2mm too far onto its shaft.  I know that, because I solved the problem by inserting washers under the motor mounts.  1mm washers did not work, nor did 1.5mm washers.  But 1.2mm washes did work perfectly.

Today Stuart arrived and removed more of the old wiring.

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Stuart, doing another CNC upgrade wiring.

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The old 7k computer has been removed, leaving some buttons.  I might be able to use those. The computer enclosure might disappear too.  Not decided yet.

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The old CNC mill has lost some weight.  Those cartons are full of old parts.  Note that the floor has been swept.  Stuart was concerned that we might be infested with snakes, but it is winter here, so we should OK until the weather warms up.

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The rats nest is disappearing.

CNC Mill Upgrade -4

I removed the old XY & Z axis servo motors from the mill.  Each one weighs about 15kg (33lb).

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The old servo motors.  The X and Z were working fine.  The Y was faulty, but I do not know whether the fault was in the motor, the encoder, the controller, or the connecting wires.  I will put them on Ebay as 2 working, one for parts.

Then I removed the belt drive pulley off each motor.  There was a grub screw, which would not budge.  Assuming that it had been Loctited, I applied some heat, judiciously.  The grub screw came out, but the pulley would not budge, so a little more heat, and a gear puller.   Two of the gears came off, but one still would not budge.

I asked for advice, and I was loaned a different type of gear puller. (thanks Rudi).  This time, some movement of the gear on the shaft was noted, and eventually the last motor gave up its gear.

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This one worked.

The shaft of the old motors was 16mm diameter.  The new motors had 19mm shafts.  So I spent some time on the lathe boring out the gears to fit the shafts of the new motors.  The keyways of the old motors were 5x5mm, and the new ones were 6x6mm.  So, I borrowed a 6mm broach (thanks Stuart), and enlarged the keyways in the rebored gears to 6mm width.   The new keyways needed a lower profile, so some time on the mill and surface grinder  to reduce the thickness of the keys to 4.5mm.

That was quite a few peasant hours hours on the lathe, mill, and surface grinder, but the end result was good.

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The new servo motors, with the timing belt gears fitted, with keys in place.  I will set each motor in place on the CNC mill, determine the final exact position of the gear on the shaft, then indent the shaft for the grub screw.  Then, when I am sure that all is correct, the gear, grubscrew and shaft will be Loctited.

Another small issue was that the boss on the new motors was 5mm deep compared to 3.5mm deep for the originals.  So the mounting plate for each motor needed the recess to be deepened by about 1.5mm.

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I used a boring head on the mill to deepen the first one, but it did not produce a good finish, so the next 2 (shown) were deepened on the lathe, in a 4 jaw chuck.

Meanwhile, back to the rats nest in the electric control enclosure….

 

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The bare space top left is where the old servo controllers lived.  They were removed.  Then I spent a half day tracing each wire from the controller to the old servo, and removing it.  That produced a carton full of wires.  The rats nest is now a little less tangled.  A lot more of those wires will be removed as the job progresses.

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The new servo controllers bolted into position.  They are fatter than the originals, so a bit of rearranging was required.  The yellow box top right is the main spindle speed control (VSD) which is being retained.

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And on the right hand side, newly bolted into position today, from the top down, are the smooth stepper, the C11 breakout board, and two C10 breakout boards.   Awaiting some expert wiring.  (Stuart, are you reading this?)

 

Upgrading the CNC mill -3. Moving a threaded hole in steel plate.

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this is the new Y axis servo motor, sitting on its mounting plate, after the old servo has been removed

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Unfortunately the existing M8 threaded holes in the mounting plate are just in the wrong position for the new motor’s 8mm mounting holes.

So, do I 1. make a new mounting plate and assembly?   2. machine or file the new motor’s holes to fit the old plate?   Or 3. Fill the old mounting plate hole, then drill and tap new holes in the correct position  ??

  1.  seemed a lot of work   2. would have looked ugly and probably voided the motor’s warranty      3.  Seemed tricky, but I decided to give it a go.   If unsuccessful I could always revert to 1.

Filling the old holes.  Could have used steel thread and silver soldered it into place.  In retrospect, would probably have been the best option.   Could have used steel thread and Loctited it into place…. decided against, in case subsequent machining  softened the Loctite.   Could have filled the old holes with bronze, and drilled and tapped new threaded holes….   well, for better or worse, that’s what I decided to do.

The new holes impinged about 25-33% on the old holes.

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The old holes were bronzed.   I improved my technique as I moved around the holes.

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After cleaning up on the mill, the new holes were center drilled 

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Then drilled to size, and tapped.  revealed that the bronze did not entirely fill the voids. 

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I wondered if the bronze would accept a suitable degree of tightening of the M8 cap screws, but all seemed fine.   Note the jacking bolts, to prevent distortion of the weldment in the milling vice.

The bronze-steel sandwich did cause the tapping drill to wander slightly, but not enough to cause concern.  Next time I will try silver soldering in a steel filler piece.

Meanwhile, I have been removing parts and wires from the electrical enclosure.

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The servo controllers are removed.  Bit of a rats’ nest hey!  About 90% to go…

 

Installing the lathe gear

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I neglected to take a photo of the completed gear.  In this shot it is almost finished.

I intended to reassemble the spindle and its cluster of gears, spacers, and taper roller bearings myself, but after talking to an expert on the topic (Swen Pettig), I realised that sometimes it is better to leave surgery to a surgeon.

I gratefully accepted Swen’s offer to help.  In his working  life Swen had performed this task on many, many occasions.

Firstly Swen reinserted the taper bearing outer races in the headstock.  The lathe spindle is approx 80mm diameter and 800mm long so it is heavy.  After careful cleaning, it was fed into the headstock, progressively loading the bearings, gears, spacers, clips and nuts, and moving and tapping them down the shaft as it was moved into place.

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Note the photo prints to remind us of the order of reassembly.  Board to protect the lathe bed.  Repaired gear laying flat.  Surgeons’ towels blue rags.

when it was all reassembled and tightened, the retaining disk at the chuck end was loosened, sealed with liquid gasket (Loctite product- cannot remember the name), and retightened.

Then Swen went through a lengthy process of checking the end play, using a dial indicator, tapping each end of the shaft with a copper hammer, and finally settling on 0.01mm of play.

Then we had a short test run at low speed, and he tested the end play again, with no change.

Then we set it running at 200 rpm, and went and had a cup of coffee for 20 minutes.  Came back and checked the bearings temperatures.   All cold, all good.

I reinstalled the external gears, the cover, etc, and took some decent cuts in some cold rolled bar.

All good.  Oil change soon.

 

German Battleship Helgoland – book review.

Seaforth Publishing, in association withThe National Maritime Museum Greenwich, is publishing a series of books of plans and history of famous warships, in this case the Helgoland.

GERMAN BATTLESHIP HELGOLAND

Detailed in the original builders’ plans

By Aidan Dodson

 

Wow!

I opened this large format, hardcover book of ship plans at midnight, expecting a quick flip through, and was able put it down 3 hours later.   But I will be returning.

The first 20 pages outline the development of German dreadnaughts and their wartime careers and fates, and a fascinating history it is.  The ship structure, armament, machinery (including engines), protection, pumping systems and damage control, and fire control are described in a degree of detail which was satisfying and not overwhelming to this non expert but interested reader-reviewer.

Then, all but 20 of its 144 pages are reproductions of the original builders’ plans of the WW1 German battleship Helgoland.   The plans are detailed, and beautiful and fascinating.  With original annotations in German, translated and explained in the margins.    The 940 x 290mm centre fold of the longitudinal section is just stunning!

Modelers, historians, ship aficionados, and anyone with a vague interest in battleships will love this book.  I certainly do, and eagerly await further volumes in the series.

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Front jacket

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Centerfold.  

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The German navy used triple expansion reciprocating engines rather than pay royalties to Parsons to use turbine engines.

CNC Mill Upgrade -2

The major components arrived this week, from China and USA.  Switches, and other components which go “ping” will be bought locally as required.  I am hoping that existing pulleys, belts, brackets will be adaptable.

The motors to drive the X, Y and Z axes are 1.2kW AC servo motors which can be connected to single or 3 phase power.  Each one weighs 6.7kg (14.7lb) .  From China, they are nicely finished.   Substantially shorter than the old servos which they are replacing and slightly larger diameter.  I am hoping that the slightly larger diameter will not cause major problems.

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AC servo.  There are 3 of these.  Kitchen knife to open the box and for scale.

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Old Y axis servo on the right, and the new AC servo left.

 

And each servo motor came with a controller and cables and connectors.

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And the electronics came from USA.

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C11 breakout board.

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C10 breakout boards x2

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And the Smooth stepper control board.  It is tiny, but the most expensive electronic component.

All up cost so far is ~$AUD2100, of which shipping is about 25%.

Next step is to swap over the servos.  The old shafts are 16mm and the new ones are 19mm.  I intend to machine the bores of the pulleys.  Hope there is enough meat  Tofu to allow that.

Cutting the Gear

Today Swen and I started cutting the gear.  Here is the setup.

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The gear was centered on the rotary table with an aluminium bush, which fitted the outside of an ER40 collet chuck.  The chuck had an M3 shaft which fitted neatly into the spindle of the rotary table.  3 bolts secured the gear blank to the T slots on the rotary table.

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This photo was taken after the setup was broken down.  Showing the M3 taper ER 40 collet holder, which I used to centralise the gear blank on the rotary table.

I started the mill conservatively at 200 rpm and a 0.5mm deep cut, but gradually increased the RPM to 450, and the depth of cut to 2mm.   Later adjusted to 300rpm, 1mm cut.

The CNC table performed flawlessly, with rapid advances between the 360/77º degree cuts (about 4.6º each tooth).  The feed rate was controlled by manually winding the X axis feed on the mill.

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We initially used water soluble cutting fluid, but changed later to raw Tap Magic, which seemed to work better.

As you can hear in the following short video, the cutter teeth are slightly off centre, but working well.  Didn’t quite finish the gear teeth in this session.  Some sparks later on, indicated that a cutter sharpening was required before the finishing run.  That will happen tomorrow.

The smoke is evaporation of cutting oil.

The setup will be left undisturbed by removing the gear cutter for sharpening.

I changed my mind about sharpening the cutter in the middle of the job, and continued cutting.

Instead, I lowered the spindle rpm, and the feed-rate.  The sparks stopped.  Maybe I was just pushing too hard, or maybe there was a hard spot in the metal.  Anyway, I finished the cuts.

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The finished gear cut.  Are those teeth looking a bit skinny at the peaks?

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Showing the setup from the operator’s view.  The CNC table worked brilliantly.

 

 

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Removing the burrs with wire brush and file.

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And testing the fit with a trial run in the headstock.  Thanks Swen, for helping (actually directing) the trial run.  The new gear on the left.

I made a video of the gear being rotated through 360mm, perfectly, but for some reason it will not upload.  (did upload eventually.. see below).    It looks perfect, with a tiny amount of backlash.   Full installation in a day or two.  I was quite surprised that making the gear to the specifications worked so well.

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Me, testing the backlash.

And afterwards, sharpening the cutter on the Quorn T&C cutter grinder which I made a few years ago.  An amazingly versatile tool.

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Just in case I need to make another.

The lathe headstock will be properly reassembled in a couple of days.  But I am finally feeling a bit confident about this job.

 

 

 

Not Antarctica Again! Groan…

For those readers who have not automatically skipped this post after reading the title, I had some time to spend on Google Earth Pro recently, and back to my area of interest, at the big black reflective rectangle 22 x 7km, photographed in 1999.  And the strange 300 x 150mm objects seen 2006 – 2007.

This time I went back a few years to 2002, and this line of objects caught my eye.

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This is Antarctica, Dec 31 2002.  The red, yellow and blue pins are 300 x 150m objects, seen 2002-7.  The big black rectangle is in the middle of the left hand cluster.   The area of today’s interest is the small red line to the left of the long red line.  The small red line, placed by me on the photo, is 20km long.   The next photo is zoomed in to the small red line…

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Still 2002, small red line. Those 21 black dots are 1km apart.  And there is another, to the right near the top of my red line.   Now to zoom in some more…

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Look at those shapes.  They are 300 x 300m each.  Similar but not identical to each other.  Exactly 1 km apart.

The black rectangle does not appear in these 2002 photos.

The co-ordinates are bottom right, so you can check this out for yourself.  What do those black shapes look like to you?   Unfortunately zooming in closer does not increase the clarity.

Now, do you want to know how I found this second row of objects?  This is where it gets even more interesting.

There appears to be a track or mark in the snow leading away from the big black rectangle, leading to the south east at heading 112º.  The track is 7km wide, the same as the black object.   I followed it on Google Earth, until it disappeared after 132km.  At that point on Google Earth I scanned the years 1984-2016.   And zoomed in and out.

And guess what!  That point is exactly where the row of 21 objects which are 1km apart, starts (or ends).   WTF?!

And just to complete this post, there is a site on YouTube which I have been watching with interest, called “Bruce Sees All”.  “Bruce” is an amateur astronomer with a decent telescope which he has been pointing at the moon, and making videos.  I have taken some screen shots, which I post here.  Hopefully this will stimulate some of you to go to the YT site and check it out for yourself.

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No scale unfortunately, but that white donut shape must be many kilometers wide.  And by the shadow which it is casting, it is way above the surface.  Similar shapes nearby.

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And look closely at all of the rectilinear shapes in this screenshot.  Square meteorites perhaps?

 

I will get back to gear making tomorrow, hopefully.

Preparations for gear cutting

Almost ready to cut the lathe gear.  It is 237mm diameter, 25mm thick, with a new rim Loctited and Scotch pinned to the old hub.

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I borrowed the 6-12″ Mitutoyo micrometer from a GSMEE member.  Thanks Rudi.  I had to learn how to read an imperial micrometer.  The rim is glued and pinned to the original hub.

And today I made a tool holder for the new-old gear cutter which I purchased from Russia.  It was meant to have a 27mm bore, but when measured was closer to 27.1mm, so I made an arbor to match.

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The cutter on the new arbor.  It required 2 attempts to get acceptable dimensions. It will be held in the vertical mill with an Er40 collet chuck.  It runs true.   Not bad for an ex gynaecologist hey?   Might need to sharpen the teeth on this old-new cutter.

Meanwhile, on advice from Swen, another GSMEE member, thinking ahead, and setting up to trial fit the new gear after it is cut.   Here is Swen, making some steel temporary bearings to try the new gear on the shaft, after the gear is made.  Tapping out the old taper bearing races.   This is what Swen did for a living when he was in the work force.  I have learned heaps just watching Swen doing his stuff.

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I admit that I would not have been brave enough to do this.  “Piece of cake” says Swen, tapping out the race with a copper drift.

CNC rotary table and preparing a gear blank

Hi readers.   Sorry for the long break.  Since my return from UK I have been severely jet lagged, then very busy, and not much time in the workshop.

The jet lag going westwards to from Oz to UK was minimal, but after the homeward trip it took 2 weeks to start feeling normal again.  It is a 22 hour flight, plus 2 hour stop over in Singapore.   I do not remember ever having such marked jet lag before, and  not much was done during those initial 2 weeks.

When I did venture back into the workshop, I discovered that my CNC mill was malfunctioning.  The Y axis has been a bit unpredictable for quite a while.  I found a broken wire and fixed it, but the problem returned.  After a previous electronic failure in the Z axis, my CNC expert advisor, Stuart,  suggested that I should  replace the electronics in a major upgrade.  The mill is a solid industrial machine, mechanically in sound condition, and is worth spending some time and money on.

It is a 1997 model, and the memory in the CNC motherboard is a whopping 7k!  I was able to get a fair bit done with the 7k, and the situation was improved by linking an external PC, and using V-Carve Pro.  But there was a limitation in that the mill is a 2.5 axis machine.  Not that I want to use 3 or 4 axes very often, but the lure of improving the mill is irresistible.

So I am in the process of ordering 3 new servo motors.  They will be AC single phase servos, rather than 3 phase motors.  I have installed one of these in my small Boxford lathe as a spindle motor, and it has proved to be reliable, compact, powerful and inexpensive (well, fairly inexpensive, comparatively speaking).  They have been ordered from China.  Cost-wise, the three axis motors will be much less expensive than one of the existing 3 phase servos.  On top of that I will need a breakout board, ESS smooth stepper to link to a computer, and various switches, wiring, power supplies etc.

I will document the steps of the rebuild.

But the item that I was getting to, was hooking up my rotary table to CNC.  I had expected to pick up a new gear for my big lathe on my return from the UK, to replace the one with the broken tooth.  I was pretty annoyed to learn that the gear maker had not done the job, and worse still he had not notified me that it had not been done.  Since he never answers the telephone, I drove to the factory, expecting to pick up the new gear, as arranged and promised, to be met with apologies and excuses.  Long story, I have decided to make the gear myself.

It has 77 teeth, an unusual number for a gear, which means that it has to be made, not purchased off the shelf.  I have a dividing plate with 77 teeth, but I could see plenty of potential for making mistakes using that, so I elected to finish the CNC conversion of the rotary table which I had started last year.  The mechanical aspects had been finished.  All that was required were the electronic hookups.   Fortunately for me, I have a friend who is an expert at these.

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In the center is the rotary table, an 8″ Vertex.  The stepper motor is a NEMA 36.   The intervening aluminium block is the coupler.  The controlling program is Mach 3.  Originally I intended to use an Arduino, but it seemed more complicated and less robust than this setup, which involved using the breakout board of the CNC lathe (right), and a new Gecko driver. (see next pictures)

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Looks complicated and messy.  Much better with the doors closed.  The rotary table Geckodrive is the one on the left.  The 2 on the right are for the lathe.  The black white and green wires 8,9,10, are from the breakout board.  The black and red 1 and 2 are from the 48v power supply, and the stepper motor power is from Windings A and B, 3,4,5,6, in the thick white wire.

I confess that I have little understanding of the wiring.  Stuart had it hooked up in under an hour.  A bit longer configuring and tweaking Mach 3, and it was working.  The extra Geckodrive, and some wires were the only extra components required to make the electronic connections.

I shot a video of it working, with giving a commentary.  But it is so bad that I will reshoot it, and add it to this post in a day or 2.   Sorry.  Not done yet.   But I have been busy preparing the blank for cutting a new gear.

I decided to retain the hub of the gear and to add on a new ring which will be machined, and then new teeth cut into it.

Firstly I had some 25mm steel plate water jetted approximately to size.  I chose water jetting in preference to laser cutting or oxy-acetylene cutting to avoid any inadvertent heat hardening.

I also had the original gear water jetted to remove the outer 25mm, including the teeth, because it had originally been heat treated hardened, and I did not fancy machining that on my other lathe and maybe breaking more teeth!

It was not cheap.  But a nice finish, which machined easily.  So the hub and the blank ring were machined with a 0.1mm gap, and glued together with Loctite 620.  Then Scotch pins were inserted.   Since my CNC mill is out of action, I reverted to calculating X and Y co-ordinates, using FS Pro.  See screen shot below.

 

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My CNC mill is out of action, so I reverted to doing some XY calculations on the manual mill with DRO, using FS Pro.   Screen shot above.

 

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And in the above shot, I have drilled and threaded some M6 holes and Loctited in some M6 grub screws.

Then machined it to size,

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The 6mm holes are the Scotch pins.  The 10mm holes are to attach the assembly to the CNC rotary table for cutting the teeth.

So, this post might be a bit ramshackle and disorganised.   A bit like my workshop at present, and possibly my brain.  My GP has started me on blood pressure medication, so I will blame that.

Watch this space for cutting the gear, soon.

 

Google Earth Antarctica Photos

Google Earth used to update the Antarctica photos annually, on 31 Dec each year.  BUT NOT SINCE 2016.

WHY NOT?

What is going on down there?

CNC Mill Upgrade

I was not planning any more major projects for 2019, instead intending to finish the triple expansion engine, the beam engine, the vertical boiler, and the CNC rotary table.

But… my hand has been forced.

The Y axis on my CNC mill has been a bit unpredictable for some months, and on my return from UK, it has totally stopped working.  It seems to be the encoder on the Y axis servo.  I could just repair or replace the encoder, but after discussing the situation with my expert advisor Stuart, I have decided to replace all of the electronics in the mill.  New axis motors, new breakout board, new drivers etc.  It is a 1997 model, and this is the second electronic failure this year.  Plus, it is only a 2.5 axis mill.  It will move in only 2 directions per move….   XY or XZ or YZ,  never XYZ in a single move.   Plus I would like to add a rotary axis, making it a 4 axis machine.

The in built computer in the mill has a 7k memory.  That’s correct, 7000 bits.  I have an external computer linked to it, which makes it a bit more useful, but the Fagor controller is clunky and idiosyncratic, and I would like to switch to Mach 3.

So, I will document the upgrade as it happens.  The mill is a good solid machine, with big ball screws, and 1000mm of x travel, 450mm Z and 450mm Y.  It is worth spending some money on it.  There are a lot of big, old, CNC machines with obsolete electronics out there for sale.  It will be a project which might just be worth watching.

Showing the handwheels for XYZ axis movements, including the broken X axis handwheel

 

Back to the Trevithick Dredger Engine Model – the lagging.

The only surviving Trevithick dredger engine, in the London Science Museum, shows no signs of ever having been lagged.  I know this, because I examined it closely, recently, during my UK trip.

No lagging, no marks in the paintwork, which would indicate wooden lagging strips ever having been attached.

But, we know that Trevithick readily adopted ANY improvements to his designs, and lagging was appearing on engines at about the epoch of the dredger engine design. Plus, his engines were in use as late as mid 19th century, and lagging was well established as a normal feature by that time.

And, my model definitely needs some efficiency improvement.  Using a 40kW burner to power an engine of this size is ridiculous.   So I Have added some lagging.

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Equipment for applying lagging, from the left…   scroll saw, super glue (I used 6 tubes), strips of wood (in this case, Australian Jarrah, grinder for shaping, Dremel for shaping, good light, and the engine with some of the strips glued in place.

I used about 48 strips of wood with some spares.  These were cut and sanded in advance.  5mm x12mm x 130mm.

The Super glue is used to hold the wood strips in place temporarily, until the brass boiler bands are installed.

I started at the top, and worked my way down on both sides.  Most effort is made in fitting around  pipes and boiler bosses.  Unsatisfactory strips are levered off and scrapped.

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A rebate was milled on every wood strip, to permit removal or tightening of the boiler end plate nuts.

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I used rubber tree ties to maintain pressure until the glue dried, but in most cases I just applied finger pressure until the wood stuck fast.

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Some pipes and fittings necessitated grooves being made with round files.

Super glue does not provide a permanent bond to copper for some reason.  And it certainly will not survive the heat from steaming.  But it is fine for a quick and temporary bond.

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After making and applying the brass boiler bands (this was covered in the “6”vertical boiler” posts) I used olive oil to seal the wood.  See discussion which follows.

I chose olive oil to seal the grain openings of the jarrah.  I know from previous firings that the temperature of the boiler shell does not exceed 100ºc.  Olive oil will not smoke or flame until the temperature exceeds  200ºc, which is higher than any other common oil.  Also, as a failed olive farmer, I have plenty of old olive oil.   At worst, my engine steamings might smell like a fish and chip shop.  And refreshing the oily surface will be quick, cheap and easy.  And the olive oil will not form a skin which might peel or flake.  Anyway, this is “model and experimental” engineering.  If it does not work, I will make some new lagging, alright!.

And I took some more photos with my Panasonic Lumix 100-2 camera…….

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Still some more painting required to the end plate, and some fittings.

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That domed boiler end with the cylinder protrusion also needs some paint.  But the lagging looks good hey?

Even SWMBO has relented…  “It can go with the other engines”.  It will, when it is finished.  Still requires more painting.

Model Engineers have Other Interesting Hobbies.

When I visited York, UK recently, I met up with a reader of the blog, Jennifer Edwards.  Jenny had set aside 2 days, and we visited the Kelham Island industrial museum in Sheffield, and the York Railway Museum, both of which have featured in recent posts, and both of which were wonderful.  It was made much more enjoyable by having a kindred spirit as company.  And fortunately both of these sites were new to Jenny also, and equally enjoyed by her I believe.

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Jennifer at the 12000hp steam engine, Kelham Island.

This post is about one of Jenny’s many interests.   Metal detecting.

I am not sure what attracted Jenny to this activity, but she joined a local detecting club, and spent many days checking English fields with the club, searching for interesting metal objects.   With fairly limited success.

Then one day she had the idea of checking a local rugby pitch.  Surprisingly, the rugby club agreed, with some stipulations I am sure, about replacing turf, minimal disturbance etc.

Within a short time, Jenny was getting positive signals, then carefully cutting out a square of turf, then digging out the ground, in most cases no deeper than about 150-200mm (6-8″).  And finding coins, rings,  (gold, platinum, some diamond), musket balls and other interesting objects.  Obviously, the field had never been previously scanned.  And research later revealed that the area had been the site of a village fairground.   And before that a walled area for defence against sea raiders.  Very old apparently, because some of the coins were Roman.  Others were of later vintage, medieval, Victorian etc.  About 200-300 objects of interest were found by Jenny.

The find was unusual, and was written up in a metal detecting magazine. (The Searcher, September 2018).

Jenny showed me some of the oldest coins, and I was flabbergasted when she said that I should keep one, as a memento.  I did say that I couldn’t possibly… but I confess that holding something so old, much less being given it, was overwhelming.  I accepted.

Here are some photos of the coin.  It is a silver denarius, minted in Rome in 137BCE.  i.e. it is 2156 years old.  Minted in the Republican era, before Julius Caesar, before Christ.

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The image is of Apollo.  “Tampil” is the family name of the minter.

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The reverse shows Apollo on a 4 horse chariot, holding a laurel branch in one hand and a bow and arrow in the other.  The words “Roma”  and “Baebilius” (part of the minter’s name) are clear.

The coin is small (about the size of an AUD 5 cent piece), silver, and the images are amazingly clear.  The Tampilius family was well known, having provided senior officers for the Roman infantry, and at least one consul of Rome.    The right to mint coins was granted to some high status private individuals in ancient Rome.  The value of the coin was roughly equivalent to its value in the silver it contained.

It says heaps about Jenny’s  generosity that she gave the gold and platinum rings to the rugby club.

 

 

 

 

Modelling Jeeps and Tiger Tanks (books)

I received 2 more books from Pen & Sword  for review, and these are both directed squarely at modellers.  They both contain interesting information about their use in WW2, but are mainly about the external appearances, and configurations.  Not much information about manufacture, strategic importance, or mechanical aspects.

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THE JEEP

Second World War

by Lance Cole

 

This large format, 64 page book is written for Jeep enthusiasts, Jeep modellers, and Jeep restorers.

This reviewer is an experienced 4×4 driver and owner, and interested in WW2 vintage Jeeps from an historical perspective, and for technical comparisons.

The book will have enormous appeal to its target audience, but less so to the casually interested reader like me.  It does include some general historical notes and comments, but these seem incidental to the main subject matter, which is about modelling of the body work and weapons.

There are many photographs of Jeeps in wartime configurations, and mounting various weapons.  Also lots of photographs of model Jeeps.

Modelers and restorers will love it.

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TIGER 1 AND TIGER 11 TANKS

German Army and Waffen-SS

The Last Battles in the West 1945

by Dennis Oliver

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This is another of the series of Tank Craft books which aims to provide model-makers and enthusiasts with photographs and line drawings of battle tanks which are popular subjects for modelling.

The 64 page , large format book has many such images, as well as notes about the military actions, as far as is known, of the German Tiger tanks in 1945.

The illustrations are of the tank exteriors only.  They are detailed, colour and of high quality.

A 15 page section lists and assesses commercially available kits from various countries.

Tiger Tank modellers and illustrators will love it.

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Large Scale Warship Models (a book review)

LARGE SCALE WARSHIP MODELS

From Kits to Scratch Building  by Kerry Jang

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This 110 page, hard cover book is aimed squarely at the model ship builder.  The title is slightly misleading because the book is more about methods of modelling, rather than models, per se.

The author, an expert and award winning modeller, describes the methods he uses to make superb, large scale ship models.  The methods include up to date techniques including 3d part printing, rubber mold making,  and use of modern adhesives, paints, materials etc.  There is a very interesting section on the why’s and wherefores of large scale ship modelling, including intriguing references to Zen and Nirvana.

The book is lavishly illustrated with many photographs of works in progress and techniques.  The text is clear and concise.

Although I am entranced by ship models in museums, my own interest in modelling is with stationary steam engines.  I found much of the advice and techniques in the book to be of interest and relevant to my own modelling efforts, particularly the sections on assembly, painting and finishing.

A handsome, useful book, which I am pleased to add to my library.

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“parts that don’t fit”. Now that will be useful.

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A handy painting technique which had never occurred to me.

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A lavish, quality production. £25.

 

London Museum of Science Revisited

I am back in oz as of a few hours ago.  Freezing and wet.  Was 26c in London today.

On my last afternoon in London I had a few hours spare.  So I caught the tube to have a final farewell to the Trevithick dredger engine and to reshoot some photos which I had messed up at my visit 3 weeks earlier.

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Trevithick dredger engine in the LSM.

…and I spent a very pleasant hour photographing the engines in the Energy Hall again.

And on wandering further into the building I discovered that on the previous visit I had totally missed about 2/3 of the entire museum, including the model of the Trevithick road vehicle which had been made as a concept model by Trevithick’s brother in law, a clock maker.

Unfortunately it was bottom lit and behind glass, so very difficult to get good photos.

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From above

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From the side.

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The model is more akin to his road vehicle “Puffing Devil” than the rail locomotive.

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Quite modern looking lathe by Richard Roberts 1807.  With lead screw and outboard gears for threading.

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Beam engine designed by James Watt 1797.

 

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Model of a steam powered workshop, with many tiny exquisitely modelled lathes, shapers, presses, saws, and a steam engine.  Those lathes are about 3″ long.

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And a 1:12 model of a pressure gauge of James Watt, 1794.  60 years before the invention of the Bourdon tube.

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And this one amused me.  It is a 1987 Colchester CNC lathe, with Fanuc controller.  It is 2 years newer than my Boxford CNC lathe.

This really was the finale of my adventures in the UK.

 

Final Day in UK. 2 more museums.

First, I was avoiding posting photos because I was at 99.9% of my allowed storage at WordPress.  So I have deleted a lot of old videos, and now have some headspace.  If you search my old posts you will find some blanks.  If they are crucial, message me and I will get them to you some other way.

Today was my final day of sightseeing.  Beautiful sunny weather in Portsmouth.  I am mentally gearing up for home and family, who I have missed.  But frankly, this tour of museums and engines and mines and ships could not have been done with wife/family in tow.  I consider myself incredibly fortunate to have been able to do just what I felt like, for the past 3 weeks.  And I have enjoyed making these posts in the evenings.

So today, I visited 2 more museums in Portsmouth, on the Gosport side of the harbour.  Smaller, specialist  museums.  Not for everyone, but I thought that both were terrific.  They were 1. The Explosion Museum and 2. The Royal Navy Museum of Submarines.

The explosion museum was quite close to my BNB.  A walk along the waterfront, past many, many leisure yachts, and the odd hulk.

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Fighting off the crowds on the waterfront, Gosport, Portsmouth

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The “Explosions Museum” is located in an old set of buildings, built as you can see, in1771.  The walls are 8′ thick.  

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And as I entered, I noticed this lump of steel, weighing 1.5 tonnes.  That is my tape measure.  I don’t trust OP’s measurements.  It is armour plating from the German battleship “Tirpitz”, sunk by British airplanes in a Norwegian fiord in WW2.   I measured it at 450mm 18″ but the notice says 15″.  Whatever.  

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Cutaway of a WW2 magnetic mine.

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The breech of a 15″ naval gun.  Massive.

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One of the buildings.  Those walls are 8′ thick!

There were many more exhibits, mainly of WW1 and WW2 vintage.  But a few more frightening, modern ones too.

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Where the gunpowder was stored.  Now used as a wedding reception venue!  Hence the balloons.

I noticed this as I walked back.

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Rotting away to nothingness.

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I have to protect my knees these days, so I drove the  2 miles to the Royal Navy Submarine Museum.

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This is a cold war, diesel powered sub.  I was surprised how big it was.  1600 tons.

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The bow (pointy end)

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And it is probably pretty obvious, but it is still just another boat.  With lots of pumps, valves, 2 engines, nav gear, torpedoes, and crew facilities.

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and dedicated volunteers, in this case an ex-submariner.

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Forward torpedo room.  The 1.5 tonne torpedoes were basically manhandled into the launching tubes shown, using a gantry (not seen).

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Torpedo stored against the wall, and the gantry above.

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There is not much room.  Crew bunks.

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Plenty of interest in the loo

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One of the twin diesels

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and the machine shop.  No brand.  About the size of a Myford.

 

The guide’s final comment was that this 1980-90’s technology is obsolete.  It is all about nuclear submarines these days.

Then into the actual museum, where there was a mini sub, and the first submarine in the Royal Navy.  And a lot of simulation games to amuse the kids.

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The mini sub.  British.  Used in WW2.  A six man crew from memory.

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1900.  9 man crew.  Canaries were actually rats.  Enlarge to read the details.

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Riveted hull.  Circa 1900. 

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Petrol engine when on surface.

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Single forward torpedo tube.

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Looking aft past the petrol engine

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The outer skin was about 3mm thick.

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No welding.  Entirely riveted.

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In the car park was an unlabelled, 7 blade bronze (?) prop.  ? off a nuclear sub.

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Submariner officers were in “the trade”.  I bet that you did not know that one.

 

So, tomorrow a drive to London to drop off the rental car, and fly out the day after.  I am planning another quick visit to Fort Nelson, where I am hoping to use a tape measure on one or two aspects of the Ottoman Bombard.  Maybe a model bronze version of the bombard in my future, hey?

So, I hope that you have found some of these posts of interest.  My usual workshop posts will reappear soon.  And maybe an occasional one about UFO’s and Antarctica.  See ya.

Portsmouth UK. 2 more great museums.

Not strictly museums.  Ships actually, but displayed as museum pieces.  Both incredibly interesting.  And I am not including Nelson’s “Victory”.  I had seen it 40 years ago, and after 5 hours of walking, my knees told me that enough was enough.

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“Victory” as seen today.  Still the biggest crowd pleaser.  Now sitting on props in a dry-dock.

My main targets today were “Warrior” and the “Mary Rose”.

Warrior was built in 1860.  The age of steam was well underway.  But to date, warships were still sailing ships.  However the French were rebuilding their navy after their humiliating defeat at Trafalgar, and they had built the first propeller driven, steam powered, iron clad (wooden ship with steel plate cladding).  The Brits were not going to stand for that, so they built “Warrior”.  The most powerful, fastest battleship afloat, and more than a match for anything else in the world.  By the time it was built, the French and the Brits were allies, for a while.  Warrior was destined to never fire a shot in anger.

Today it sits moored at Portsmouth’s Historic Dockyard, and is a fascinating mixture of steam and sail, muzzle loaders and breech loading guns, Steel and wood.  It is a big ship, 127.5m (418′) long, and 9210 tons.  It looks a little odd to our eyes because it has no superstructure, except 2 funnels, and the foremast and mainmast are widely separated.

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Steel framed, 18″ of oak lined, plus 4.5″ of steel plate.   The masts are steel, with wooden upper sections.  The figure head is a Greco-Roman warrior.   706 crew.

This ship could make 14.4 knots (27.7kph) under steam, 13 knots (24kph) under sail, and 17.2 knots (31.9 kph) with sail plus steam.  Not as fast as a clipper, but much faster than any other warship.

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4.5″ (114mm) armour plating, plus 18″ (460mm) teak planking.

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Traditional spoked steering wheels were duplicated on 3 decks.

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Hundreds of Lee-Enfield percussion cap rifles were available.

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And cutlasses, to repel boarders.  Muzzle loading cannon tools to left.

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And Colt 45’s for the officers.

But the main armament was of course the big guns.

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The gun deck was similar to that of the 120 year older Victory.   except that these are huge 68 pounders.  19 man gun crew for each.  A mixture of 10 x 110lb breech and 26 x 68lb muzzle loaders.

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And the crew still slept in hammocks on the gun deck.  And ate there.

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But they had washing machines  and lavatories (first ever warship with these)

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and baths!

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The steam engine, surprisingly was a relatively primitive, but powerful twin cylinder, single expansion, horizontal trunk engine of 5469hp, driving a single propeller.  The 10 boilers were box shaped, double firebox, no fire tubes.   22 psi only.

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Coal was delivered in small coal trucks on rails, and shovelled into the firebox’s.  No gauges,  except in engine room.   853 ton coal stowage.

I have many more photos of Warrior, but I am down to my last few megs of storage, and I want to show some pics of the Mary Rose, which is probably the most stunning museum display I have ever seen.  I know that I keep saying that, but this really is…..

Mary Rose was a 35 year old warship which sank in 1545 during the battle of the Solent, against a huge French invasion fleet, while Henry 8 was watching.  No-one really knows why it sank, but the most popular theory is that bigger cannons had been installed, requiring low gun-ports to be cut into the the hull, and that after firing a broadside the ship had turned and the open gun-ports shipped a lot of water, which sank the ship.   Whatever, the ship was unable to be raised. Most of the hull gradually rotted and broke away.  But the parts which were under silt did not rot, and were still there when discovered over 3 centuries later.  In 1985 the remains were raised, and painstakingly preserved.  A museum to house the remains was specially built.  And it is stunning!  No other word for it.  Here are a few pics from today.

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Mary Rose.  Pride of the English fleet.

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and you know who.

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About 1/3 of the hull remains, including most of the keel.

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The bronze cannons are in fairly good shape.  Only real remains are displayed.

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This is a breech loading iron cannon, made of strips and hoops of iron.  The ancient wood and iron has been treated for years with PEG (polyethylene glycol) before going on display.

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Hundreds of ewe long bows were found, many still in their storage boxes.

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And many skeletons.  This one was a bowman.  That humerus (upper arm bone) is massive.  There were 35 survivors out of the many hundreds of men on board. 

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And a reconstruction of the bowman.

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And sadly, a dog.

A most remarkable museum.  Add it to your bucket list.  Allow at least 2 hours.

 

 

 

 

 

Fort Nelson. The Ottoman Bombard revisited.

Just to refresh your memory, if you are a long term reader of johnsmachines.com, this is the model of the Ottoman Bombard which I made several years ago …

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…but it is not finished.  I could not find a picture or drawing of the touch hole anywhere.  Requests to the museum drew no response.

Plus, I had some questions about how the square holes were made.  These were designed for levers to be inserted so the cannon segments could be screwed together.  But were the round pegs cast with the barrel and breech, or were they somehow added later?

Also, I wanted to take a close look at the huge V threads to see if I could work out how they made them.

And frankly, I just wanted to touch it.

It is currently on display at The Fort Nelson Royal Armories Museum near Portsmouth UK.  And I visited it today.  I allowed an hour to inspect the bombard and have a quick look around the rest.  4 hours later I staggered out.  This museum is another fantastic place to visit.  I will do a more complete report in another post. For the moment I will deal with the bombard.

Firstly the touch hole.  Save these photos.  They do not appear anywhere else!

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Not much design finesse there!  The wide opening becomes narrower about 25mm in (just visible).

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Next, the bombard as it was today..and I touched it!

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It is 17′ (5.2m) long, weighs 16.8 tons (17000kg).  It was made in 1465 by Munir Ali, as a copy of the bombards made by Orban, a Christian (Hungarian? German?) for Mehmet 2, the conqueror, who took Constantinople in 1453 on 29 May, (today in Oz).  Orban’s biggest bombard, named Basilica reportedly was 27′ (8.2m) long!

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That’s my hand underneath the “pins”.  Actually levering braces, cast integrally with the breech and barrel.  You can see dents, probably made by the levers.  In doing this I realised that the “pins” are not cylindrical, they are half a cylinder (split lengthwise).  The half cylinders allowed clay or something similar to be placed around the mold, under the half cylinders, and for the gaps between the half cylinders to be filled with clay pieces, to be broken out after the cannon casting.

And the huge threads…

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Well, I am no closer to understanding how these were made.  They are rough and irregular.  I would guess that they were carved in wood, then a clay mold made from the wooden model and baked, then the clay shape used in the final casting, and broken out afterwards.  Any other ideas?

I really enjoyed this visit.  If I have any WordPress storage remaining I will post some photos of some of theother artillery pieces later.

When I finally run out of space, I am afraid that will be the end of my posts.  Thankyou all for following.  It has been great fun posting, and answering comments.

Just in case this is the last post, I have to post these pics of the WW1 British rail gun.  It is truly awesome.

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Cannon caliber 18″.  The Yamato (Japanese WW2 battleship) had 9 guns of this caliber.

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The breech OD  is at least 5′- 6′

 

BT. Before Trevithick.

Before Trevithick were Savery, Newcomen and Watt.  And way before them, Hero of Alexandria (1st century AD)

Thomas Savery, a military engineer from Devon, took out a patent in 1698 for a steam operated pump.  It had no moving parts, except some valves.

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It had 2 low pressure boilers.  Steam from one boiler was introduced into one chamber, and water was then introduced which condensed the steam, forming a partial vacuum, which sucked up water from below.  Steam from the other boiler was then introduced, which pushed the water upwards.  As a pump it was a failure, and it is not known if any were made.  Modern reconstructions have also been unable to pump water successfully. But the patent lasted, and forced Newcomen to involve Savery with his invention in 1712.

Thomas Newcomen was an ironmonger and Baptist lay-preacher from Dartmouth, Devon, and he is the reason that I am currently in this pretty Devon town.  There is an original Newcomen “atmospheric engine” in Dartmouth.

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(taken at an angle to avoid window reflections)

The Newcomen pump, (for pumping water from the mines was its purpose) also used the condensation of steam creating a partial vacuum, as its principle of action, and it was quite successful.   So successful in fact, that more than 600 of them were built, and they continued to be built well after the improvements of Watt and Trevithick, into the nineteenth century.  In the diagram above, the 22″ power cylinder is on the right, and the pump cylinder is on the left.  The genius of this design is that the pump can operate in the depths of the mine (or canal or military trench) while the engine remains above ground.

It is incredibly inefficient in thermal terms, converting only 1:200 of the energy from burning coal into the mechanical energy of the pump, but it was by far, more powerful than any pumps driven by man, horse, wind or water at that time.

The room in which the Dartmouth engine is housed is just bigger than the 15′ high engine, so pictures are difficult.

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All wood, except the power cylinder on the right, and the pump and pipes (not seen).  The curved ends of the big wooden beam keep the piston rod and pump rod vertical.  Cylinder boring had not been introduced yet, so the gap between piston and cylinder was up to 1/4″.

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The valves to admit the steam and water were originally operated by hand, but later some automated simple levers were introduced.  Note the square nuts (original).  It appears that the woodwork is mostly original, albeit repaired in places.

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The pump connection

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This power piston has a bore of 22″ (560mm), but they were built increasingly bigger, up to 80″ (2032mm).

The Newcomen engines were simple, and effective.  Their main problem was that they consumed vast quantities of coal.  They were widely used, but there was/are no coal deposits in Cornwall, and transporting coal from Wales was costly, and taxed.

James Watt‘s big contribution to steam engines was to add a condenser to the engine, which was separated from the power cylinder.  That doubled the efficiency.  He also sealed the top of the cylinder, so both strokes of the piston rather than just the down stroke, were power strokes.  But it was still a vacuum powered engine, and therefore had an absolute limit of working pressure of something less than atmospheric pressure (15psi).

Richard Trevithick‘s main contribution in 1800 was to increase the steam pressure available, by inventing the “Cornish boiler” which produced steam at 50psi, and even up to 145psi.  This more than doubled again the thermal efficiency of the steam engine, and made it much more compact, leading to his applications of steam engines in road vehicles, railway locomotives, ship engines, and industrial stationary engines (like my model dredger engine).

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Watt modified Newcomen engine on the left, Trevithick dredger engine on the right. Size comparison.

Tomorrow I am driving to Portsmouth.  So I will leave the west country inventors of steam engines.  It has been a fascinating journey.

First stop, Fort Nelson.  To renew my acquaintance with the Ottoman bombard, which was the subject of my blogs several years ago.

 

Tin Mines

One of the essential discoveries by our ancestors, in taking us from being hunter gatherers to “civilised” sapiens, was how to make metal implements, weapons, instruments and engines.  Copper was the earliest.  Probably found by lighting a  camp fire over a rock containing copper, and seeing it run.  It could be moulded into useful implements, but it was soft, and maleable.

Copper and tin often are found close to each other, so it is possible that the ancient camp fire melted both tin and copper to form bronze, which is much harder, and still used in the space epoch, as a hard, good conducting, mouldable metal.  Or more likely, that some copper which was melted and cast into something useful, was contaminated with tin, and the accidentally resulting bronze was found to be much harder and more durable than copper.

The problem is that tin is a relatively rare metal in earth’s crust, and its most common occurrence is in the form of crystals of cassiterite, which are inclusions in granite.  There is evidence that tin has been used since ~2000BCE.  Ancient man probably mined surface deposits of cassiterite in various locations, most particularly what is now Cornwall, UK.  Tin was traded from Cornwall long before the Romans arrived, and by then, was obtained by deeper mining.  Mining continued even though iron was available.  Bronze lasts  much longer than iron.  Indeed, many more bronze implements and weapons have been discovered from antiquity, because the iron ones have rusted away to nothing, and the bronze items often are in close to perfect condition.

Tin and copper mining continued in Cornwall until very recently.  I am not aware of any commercial mines currently operating.   But the evidence of mining in the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries is everywhere to be seen in the form of smoke stacks, and engine houses, which once housed mighty steam engines.  In the past 2 days I have visited 3 mines, which have differing approaches to tourists.  They were The “King Edward Mine Museum”, “Geevor”, and “The Levant”.  I did photograph Ding Dong from a distance, because that was the mine of which Richard Trevithick was the captain.

King Edward Mine Museum.  Although the site of a mine, this is a museum of mine engines, boilers, and machines to separate the tin ore from the parent granite.

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From a steam beam engine which provided power for the winding winch, the beam and connecting rod.

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19th century photo of miners on a “man engine”.  To decrease the time it took for miners to climb up and down ladders, sometimes up to 2000 feet(!) to get to and from the working face, this was devised.  There is a series of wooden beams, fastened together end to end, totalling the length of the depth of the mine, and every 12 feet there is a small step.  A steam engine at ground level raised and lowered the wooden beams and steps every few seconds by 12′.   The miner had to step onto the moving step, be raised 12′ then step off onto the platform above.  Perfect coordination and timing was required.  Even using the engine, it would take 30 minutes to go up or down 2000 feet.  Needless to say it was dangerous, and many injuries, amputations, and some deaths occurred from miscalculation.  There was a disaster at the Levant Mine where the main beam broke, killing 31 men who were on the man engine.  OH&S is not total BS.

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The remains of the engine house and chimney at King Edward Mine.  Granite blocks were preferred to hold the weight of the large beam engines.  And the beam weight was taken directly by the walls.

Geevor Mine closed later than King Edward, and the ore processing machines are substantially intact, and date from early 20th centuery.  It is on the coastline of Cornwall.

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Geevor Mine.  The tower with the wheels is the headframe.  The engine house is on the right.

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Like gold sieves, the denser tin ore is sieved from the lighter rocks.  The bottom machines are a last phase of grinding.

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Boilers.  Lancashire type I think.  (my bad.  Not Lancashire.  Egg end

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Ore train, battery powered.  Earlier they tried small steam engines, but the smoke was a problem, so they used horses to pull the empty trucks back to the loading areas.  The loaded trucks went to the bucket lifts down a gradual slope, using gravity.  The horses spent 2 months under ground, and were carefully looked after because of their cost, and the trouble of getting them down and up.  At the end of two months they were blindfolded and legs tied, and were lifted using the ore lifting whim.  They were kept in a dark barn for 2 weeks, then allowed out for 6 weeks, before going undergound again.

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Water wheel powered ore crusher.

The final part of this tour, was a walk undergound, through a 350 year old mine, later used as an access tunnel.  They issued us with a helmet and raincoat, and both were absolutely necessary.  The tunnel was about 5′ to 5’6″‘ tall, so the helmet took a battering. The walls were wet, and the roof constantly dripped and ran.  Sometimes the walls were not vertical, but sloped markedly.  Our guide used to be a tin miner, and he told us that they disliked the irregular access, because after placing a charge of black powder, they had approximately 30 seconds to clear the area.  Falling over, or being too slow was a bad option.  And it was pitch black when the lights were out.  This tour is not for everyone.

Prior to pneumatic drills, water fed tools, the charge holes had to chiselled by hand.  One person holding and rotating the drill (chisel), and one or two miners swinging heavy sledge hammers.  Typically it would take 2-3 hours to chisel the 6-8″ hole to take the charge of powder.  They made their own fuses using goose quills end to end, and filled with black powder.   This was granite containing the tin ore.  Very hard stone.  Very few timber props were required once the mine was well undergound.

 

 

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This is a 3D model of one mine’s shafts, adits, and tunnels.   100 miles altogether.  2000 feet deep, and extending inland, and out under the ocean floor for 2000 feet!   Surprisingly, the part under under the ocean was the driest, and was fresh water, except when they accidentally mined up too far.

The final mine which I toured was the richest.  The Levant mine.  It is of great antiquity.. 3000 to 600 BCE and intermittently mined until 1930.  It never really recovered from the Man Engine disaster of 1919.  It is now a National Trust site, and the tour was one of the best I have experienced anywhere.  Again the tour guide was an ex tin miner.  He looked the part, with missing teeth,  west country brogue, and built like a T34 tank.  He was a superb raconteur, with a wealth of stories and knowledge, and answered every question with assurance.  We visited many parts of the complex, including a trip into a mine, with a huge vertical shaft at the end.  Counted the tourists in and out, and radioed the manager in and out.  The tour ended with a visit to the steam driven whim engine.  It was the only engine saved after the closure.  The rest were scrapped.

 

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Levant mine is perched on top of rugged Cornish cliffs.  The cliffs were mined by ancients.  The adit (water drainage tunnel and mine entry is down near sea level.  We did not venture down there) opens near the bottom left of the pic.

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A small part of the Levant above ground complex.

 

 

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The valves of the beam engine

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The beam.  Not the biggest, but it is working on steam.  1840.  Restored 1985.   24 rpm.  690mm bore, 1200mm stroke.  Direct drive to the winding drum.

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I do not have enough space for videos of the engine operating, But will put them on YouTube later.

I have not touched on the topic of women and children working in the mines.  It happened until well into the 20th century.  Look up “Bal maidens” for information on women in the mining industry.  They were a strong lot.

Another highly recommended place to visit.

First Steam Locomotive.

In 1802 a Richard Trevithick designed engine was made by the Coalbrookdale company.  Not much is known about it, but is recorded that the steam pressure reached 145psi!  Trevithick had previously operated his road steam locomotive up the Camborne Hill, but this was the first one to run on rails.

The next one was made for the steelworks at Merthyr Tidfil, Wales.  It was a Trevithick engine which ran on rails.  The owner made a 500 guinea bet with a rival (an astronomical figure.  Somewhere I read that it would be equivalent to a million dollars these days), and in Feb 1803 the engine towed 5 wagons, loaded with 10 tons of iron ore (or coal, not sure), and 70 odd bods, a distance of 10 miles.  There was dispute about whether the bet had been won due to some technicalities, and no record of it being paid, but it was a moral victory.  The age of steam had really begun.

The biggest problem was not the locomotive, but the rails.  They were not strong enough, and frequently broke.  It took the genius of George Stephenson to solve that problem, by using forged iron in preference to cast iron.  And his son Robert to increase the efficiency of the engine and boiler in the form of “Rocket”.  But that is another story, for 30 years later.

Unfortunately the original of the Merthyr Tidfil loco has not survived, but several replicas have been made, based on original drawings.  I saw one of them at Swansea, Wales, not far from Merthyr Tidfil.  Not a steaming day.  It does run.

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Not great photos.  The lighting conditions in the National Waterfront Museum were difficult.

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The typical big, skinny Trevithick flywheel, and driver’s wagon.

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Square main shaft.  Hex nuts were not around in 1802.  

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And that is a view that you don’t often see.  The pressure gauge is definitely a modern requirement, as I discovered with my dredger engine.

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Notice the fish belly rails.  Originals were cast iron.  “Fish belly” shape to increase the strength, but alas, not strong enough.  Hex nuts again!  And those gears have modern shaped teeth.  Quite a few compromises in this replica.

And I have now arrived in Camborne, Cornwall, Trevithick’s home, and the site of his famous trial of the steam road loco.

I made a pilgrimage to Fore St (“Camborne hill”), then to his statue, to pay homage.

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Richard Trevithick.  Genius.

 

Bolton Steam Museum

I was a bit unsure about visiting this one.  A smaller museum, and I knew from the web site that it was not a steaming day.  But it was only a half hour drive, so off I went.  I arrived at the address, and there was a supermarket, but in a corner of the supermarket block there was a tall, old,  sizeable red brick building with no windows.  And a sign… “Bolton Steam Museum”.

In I wandered, and a gentleman in overalls approached.  This was a volunteer working day.  But Ian (apologies if I got the name wrong), stopped his task and spent over an hour showing me around, explaining the finer points of his babies, starting some of them on electric motors to demonstrate the movements, then invited me to a cuppa with his mates, where there was further discussion, mainly about rope drives and stone engine bases.

No parking or entry fee on a non steaming day, (but a donation was appreciated).

The machines were not the monsters of Kewbridge or Kempton pumping stations.  They were mostly from the industrial age of the midlands 1840-1930, powering textile mills, sawmills, and factories.  Some were quite big.  All were beautifully restored and presented, and for once, the descriptive labels had lots of information about the physical characteristics and histories of the engines.  A nice aspect was the elevated walkway down the centre of the room, allowing a good view above the engines.

Some photos follow.  Not as many as the museum deserves, because I am nudging my  Wordpress limits.

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The twin beam engine of 1840 is the oldest engine in the museum. It started life as a twin, but when higher pressure steam became available it was converted to a compound twin.  Note the non identical con rods.  That happened during the conversion to compound.  Partly seen is an excellent collection of engine lubricators.

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This is a “non dead centre” engine.  It has 2 con rods, one for each piston, but only one crank.  Watch the video below and see if you can figure it out.  It ran 100 looms in a textile mill.

 

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Two of the barring engines.  These were small steam engines which were used to rotate the flywheel of a much bigger engine, to its correct starting position.

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For the first time ever, I saw rope drives in action.  Rope made of cotton was preferred, but these days sisal is usually used.  Each rope could transmit 54hp if made of cotton, 30hp if sisal.  They worked in V shaped grooves, and hung rather loosely between the pulleys, the weight of the rope wedging the rope into the groove.  The splices, joining the rope into an endless loop were made by specialists, on the engine, and unlike marine splices, barely increased the diameter of the rope.  The splices which I saw extended over about 2 meters of the rope. 

This museum is another gem.  I have described only a few of the 24 major items on display.  There are many more, including engine lubricators, gauges, and valves.  It was well worth the stay in Manchester, and more than made up for my disappointment at the  Museum of Science and Industry.  Try to see it on a steaming day.  The dates are published on the website http://www.nmes.org

Also, the 36 page “Souvenir Museum Guide” is the best guide of its type I have encountered and contains detailed descriptions and colour photographs of the major exhibits.  It is a steal for £2.  The History of the Bolton Steam Museum is 64 pages, crammed with photos, and after a quick browse I am looking forward to reading it.  Also IMO, a steal at £3.

Sincere thanks to the volunteers who shared their enthusiasm for steam engines with me today.  I do hope to return one day to see the engines running on steam.

 

 

Museums Have Changed. “Rocket”.

I visited the Manchester Museum of Science and Industry today.

As I entered I had to remove my hearing aids.  The noise was deafening.  It sounded like a rock concert with someone screaming into a microphone, as they do.

At the same time, I could see in front of me, Stephenson’s “Rocket”, and that was exciting.  Better still, there were only 1 or 2 people looking at it, so it was possible to get up close or more distantly, to examine it and take photos.

But there was a large crowd on the other side of the room, where the noise was originating.  I was informed that it was “a history of industry in Manchester” lecture, with sound effects and a live performance directed at kids.   Fair enough I suppose.  That sort of presentation might introduce kids to science and museums.  But I am skeptical.  More likely it is an introduction to entertainment, and not much to do with science or industry.

So, I made the most of it and spent quite a while examining Rocket and taking photographs from every angle.  Photos later.

Then I changed buildings to see the Power Hall exhibition of industrial steam engines.  This was the second major reason for my visit to Manchester.   But the Power Hall was closed!  “Temporary” said the sign.  “For one year” said the attendant.  Bummer.

Had a look in the “Air and Space Hall” and was impressed by the size of the twin rotor helicopter, and some other interesting old string and rag airplanes, but that is not really my thing.

Anyway, back to “Rocket”, which you know was the winner of the 1829 Rainhill trial, to pick a locomotive design which would be used to power a railway line between Manchester and Liverpool.  I had seen a replica of Rocket at York.  But this is the real one.   It is almost 200 years old, and it looks the part.  The timber bumper slab has partially disintegrated, and it is likely that some parts have been upgraded.  But those changes are now part of history.

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The firebox water jacket is missing, causing the incomplete appearance.  Wooden front wheel, with iron rim.  Cylinder is horizontal so this is mark 2 or later.

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Rocket firedoor

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Firebox without copper water jacket, from the top

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The only other steam engine on display, (because the Power Hall was closed), was this very elegant beam engine.

Beam engine unlabelled

The flywheel must be 8′ diameter, which makes it a tall, thin machine.  I do like the fluted columns, and symmetrical entabulature.

Beam engine cylinder end

Now, that would make for an interesting model.

 

 

Pontefract. Where playing around can cost your head.

Catherine Howard, Henry VIII’s 5th wife was beheaded in 1542 because she had an affair with Thomas Culpepper in this castle.

The castle, the second strongest in England, after the Tower of London, and considered impregnable, because it is built on rock at the top of a hill, was actually captured during the civil war by the roundheads.  The roundheads had learned that officers of the castle garrison were trying to buy beds.  So some of the roundheads got access to the castle by pretending to be bed merchants, and the castle was taken.

After that the castle was demolished, encouraged by the locals who were fed up with being the target of many armies.

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Not much of the huge castle remains

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There are 3 cannon ball impact craters in this photo.

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Is that a nuclear power plant?

Pontefract is mainly infamous because Richard 2 was murdered here.  A red hot poker allegedly.

Then, after this cheery history lesson, I drove on through the beautiful country of the Derbyshire Dales.  Winding roads.   Deep rocky gorges.  Open fields with stone fences.  To my destination of The Anson Machinery Museum.  This is a smallish museum, recommended by a Melbourne colleague (thanks Ian, if you are reading this), but containing some absolute machinery gems.  Many photos, but I will show just a few.

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It must be 5-6meters long

 

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Ah.  This looks like my sort of museum!

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WTF?  ” A single cylinder, double acting wall engine of 1800.  Note the parallel motion bars, designed to (successfully) circumvent James Watt’s patent.  The gothic arch surrounds are actually steam pipes.  About 5″ tall, plus a large flywheel (partly seen).

 

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The beam engine stands about 5′ high.  Made by Fowlers of Leeds 1872.

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And my personal guide for an hour or two,  an expert steam head, Geoff Baker.

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And just feast your eyes on this beauty!  It is a compound twin, about 3’6″ – 4′ tall.  The propulsion engine for a 63′ torpedo boat 1880.  Not yet formally displayed.

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This is a compound twin from a paddle steamer,  a rich man’s toy.

There were many more engines, including a huge atmospheric engine, a very large compound twin horizontal mill engine, which was difficult to adequately photograph, many oilers, diesels, a steam driven workshop, a steam driven hammer.  A really interesting smaller museum in a beautiful country location.

 

 

National Rail Museum, York, UK.

I am not really “into” trains.  More a stationary engine enthusiast.  But so many readers and friends advised me to not miss the Rail Museum at York that I went today, with my local guide and blog reader, Jennifer Edwards.  To my surprise, Jennifer had not previously visited the museum either.

The museum is located outside the city walls, (the longest city walls in UK), and next to the railway station.  Parking was easy, but not cheap.  $AUD20, which seems to be the standard parking fee in many UK places.  But entry to the museum was free!

There are 3 big halls and an outside area.  The first hall contained a number (didn’t count, but maybe 8) of complete trains with carriages, including a couple of royal trains, with monogrammed carriages, double beds, elegant dining tables with fine china and silverware.  The paintwork gleams.  The metal surfaces are polished.  Altogether a magnificent spectacle.

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Express passenger locomotive nicknamed “Spinner”, 1890-1920.  Average speed 60mph, maximum 90mph.  (we could use some of these in Oz)

For some inexplicable reason I did not photograph the royal trains.

The next building housed the interesting locomotives.

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This is KF7, the largest loco in the collection.  Designed for use in an area of China with steep hills and weak bridges.  The weight was spread over many axles.  Jennifer is 5’6″ 

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This is a replica of Stephenson’s Rocket 1.  It is particularly interesting because many covers have been sectioned or removed, showing the innards.

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This section shows the internal structure of a power cylinder and D valve.

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And the multitube boiler.

I took many photos.  This is showing just a tiny fraction of them.

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And, of course all steam engine buffs will recognise the fastest steam locomotive in the world.  Mallard could reach speeds of 126mph (203kph), towing a full complement of carriages.  Not bad for 1938

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Guided tour of Mallard controls

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Magnificent green livery.  Did not record engine details.

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And this was a full size locomotive, found in a scrap yard and beyond restoration, so it was sectioned to display the workings.  Quite fascinating.

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The “Agenoria” 1829, reminded me strongly of Trevithick’s designs.  The info says that the designer,  John Rastrick, had worked with Trevithick.

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That boiler end, firebox door, water level taps and square nuts could be straight off the Trevithick dredger engine.

We did not see the last areas, because after 4 hours or so, we two seniors had aching joints.   Nice to leave something for the next visit.

Thanks guys, for a wonderful recommendation.

If you have not seen this museum, definitely add it to your bucket list.

And sincere thanks to Jennifer Edwards, fellow model engineer,  for being great company over the last 2 days.

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Jennifer collects clocks, as well as boilers and steam engines.  Here she is admiring a railway station pendulum clock.

 

 

 

The Most Powerful Steam Engine in the WORLD (?).

Excluding nuclear powered steam turbines and some others.  But 12,000hp is not to be sneezed at.

At Sheffield’s  Kelham Island Museum  we (Jennifer Edwards, a blog reader of johnsmachines.com, and I), saw a steam engine which was big, but not as big as the triples at Kempton.  So how can it be “the most powerful etc”.

Well, it is a triple, but not a compound triple.  It is a simple triple.  Double acting.  so each cylinder puts out power like it is the HP cylinder of a triple expansion engine.  It must be a prodigious consumer of fuel and energy.

Why so much power requirement?  Well this engine was used to power a rolling mill, to curve the armour plating of battleships.  Plates up to 16″ (400mm) thick.  The steel was red hot while this was being done, and the plate was rolled back and forth until the desired curve was reached.  Several re-heatings of the plate was required until the desired curve was achieved, so it was important that as many passes as possible were done in the shortest time.  So this engine is capable of full power reversals, very quickly.  Unfortunately there was insufficient room in the museum to fit the rolling mill.

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This large crucible sits at the Museum entrance.  (Jennifer for scale.)

And we saw that happening today.   It was very impressive, and apart from some clanking of the huge spur gears, very quiet.

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Cylinder bores 40″,  stroke 48″, installed 1905, used until 1976.

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50 ton flywheel

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And pinion

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Reversing gear

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Current modern boiler is no match for the original 10 Lancashire boilers.

 

The demonstration lasted only 3 minutes, before the large gas fired boiler ran out of steam at 100psi.  And they had been heating the boiler since yesterday.  Under industrial use, 160psi was used.

Jennifer is trying to obtain some plans to model the engine.  Hmm…I might have discovered my next model too…

Harrison’s Clocks

I have seen these famous clocks in the past,  before I had read “Longitude”.  But now, knowing how incredibly important it was to have an accurate marine chronometer, and knowing the story of how a carpenter, John Harrison, invented, developed, and made the world’s first accurate marine chronometers in the early eighteenth century, I could not miss the opportunity to revisit the Royal Greenwich Observatory, on my visit to Greenwich.

Amazingly, 3 of the 4 clocks are still working accurately.  I am not sure why the final, wonderful, Harrison 4 is not working.  That is the clock which finally made Harrison a wealthy person.

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Harrison 1.  Intriguing mechanism, but had wooden gears and other wooden parts, and was not quite accurate enough.  It weighs 30kg.

 

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Harrison 3.  More compact.  All brass gears and shafts. No bobbing pendulums.   Still heavy, but a bit less bulky.  19 years in development, and still not up to scratch according to Harrison, who was probably a bit OCD.  One aspect which really impressed me with these clocks, was the incredibly high standard of metal work and metal finishing.

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Harrison 4.   Like a big pocket watch. But won him the prize, and made him a very rich man.  Unfortunately Harrison died not too long after winning the prize.

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John Harrison with his final chronometer.  And a picture behind him of number 2 (I think).  (Actually H3)

The board which was determining whether his chronometer (number 4) was worthy, dallied and prevaricated to avoid paying Harrison the 20,000 pound prize.  Fortunately, King George 2 intervened and took up Harrison’s cause, and eventually he was paid a total of 23,000 pounds, which made him the equivalent of a modern multi millionaire.

His Harrison 4 kept time on a moving, rocking ship, within 1 minute in 90 days, which was a quantum leap in accuracy, and resulted in vastly more accurate navigation, and saving sailors lives.

“Longitude” is an excellent read.  And seeing these timepieces in reality, was an experience which I will not forget.

Another 1000 ton Machine

I saw Cutty Sark for the first time 40 years ago, and was transfixed by its beautiful lines and fine workmanship of construction .

Like most people I was devastated when it was severely damaged by fire in 2002 (or was 2007?  I can’t remember.  Anyway, they spent a lot of money and time repairing the damage.  And I revisited it today.

What the Cutty Sark Trust has achieved is nothing short of remarkable.

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Today, when I first saw it again, I thought “what is that strange glass structure around the hull?  Are they trying to do something modern and arty?”   The masts, rigging and hull otherwise appeared to be unchanged.

Then when I paid my money and went through the entrance… 1. I felt poorer.   The entrance fee was $AUD 54 for Cutty Sark and the Greenwich Observatory.  2. I was astounded to see that the entire ship has been lifted off the ground by ~2.5 meters, and is supported by 24 large steel props.

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It really is spectacular.  The fine lines of the hull are absolutely stunning from beneath.  And it has removed pressure from the ageing hull structure, which was sagging from its own weight.   The metal sheathing is Muntz metal, an alloy of copper, used to prevent barnacles and algae from attaching to the hull and slowing the ship speed.  I am unsure whether it has been renewed, or just polished, but as you can see it is gleamingly beautiful.

And speed was what this tea carrying cargo ship was all about.  Each ship load of tea was worth about 6 million pounds, and there was huge competition between the clipper ship captains to be the first home to England with the precious cargo, to get the best prices.

This greyhound of the seas regularly hit 20 knots, and on one voyage from China, averaged 17 knots. (20 knots = 23 mph = 37 kph).  Remember, this is a sailing ship.  Many modern cargo ships would struggle to reach that speed.

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The hull consists of 4″ thick planks, sheathed with Muntz metal, attached to steel ribs.

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Inside the hull, showing the iron frame.

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The lowermost section of the masts is rolled and riveted steel.  Wood above that.

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The masts and rigging are as I remember.  Extremely complex and purposeful.

The intricate woodwork in the captain’s cabin and officers areas, the precisely made steering mechanism, the brass fittings are all as I remember.   This really is a beautiful machine.

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The steering mechanism.  Left and right hand square thread.  Precision metal work.

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And there is a working model of the steering mechanism to demonstrate how it works, for those people who cannot figure it out for themselves. (like me).

 

 

Big Triple Expansion Steam Engines

I knew that the triple expansion engine at Kempton Pumping Station would not be steaming today, but I wanted to see it anyway.

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It is sited next to the Thames, and pumped water from the river up to a holding reservoir.

As I walked to the building I could see the outlines of the huge engines through the windows.

But it was closed!  Damnation!

But, a kind volunteer, hearing how far I had travelled, let me in, and gave cart blanche to wander at will.

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There are two of these 63′ high monsters.  This one has been restored, and is run on steam occasionally, after the boilers have been lit for 48 hours.  The other engine is currently being restored.  The crankshaft of the second one was rotated with the barring engine about half a revolution, after no use since 1985.  Of course it is a triple expansion steam engine, and it now is run on a newish boiler which is gas fired.  Unfortunately the old Lancashire (?) boilers were scrapped.

The interior of the building is also interesting.  The walls are glazed bricks which look like tiles, and there is a 20 ton gantry crane.  The engines weigh 1000 tons each, so must have been assembled on site.

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The walls are glazed bricks.  Note the piston rings on the walkway.

Below the engines are huge water pipes, pumps and valves.

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The space between the triples is occupied by two steam turbine driven pumps, about which more in a later post.  The space was originally intended to be occupied by another triple, which never occurred.   Interestingly, the triples are mirror images of each other, rather than identical, which means that a lot of components cannot be interchanged.  It probably made the plans more symmetrical and elegant.  Very British I suspect.

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Hey, that’s me.  In my tourist hiking gear

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Overall engine height 62 feet (18.9 meters)

 

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Monster big ends and cranks

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HP gauges.  Beautiful artwork hey Frank?!

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And aren’t those column bases works of art?

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Barring engine.  Steam powered

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Those are my fingers against the flywheel, and teeth for the barring engine.

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One of many oil distibutors

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Right on top of the LP

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Piston rod and crosshead

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On top of the world

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Looking down to a big end and the crankshaft

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Big machines need big nuts

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The HP cylinder

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A volunteer pointed out that some of the safety fence posts are recycled Boulton and Watt parallel motion bars!

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check out those cylinder diameters and clearances!

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Spare piston rings

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Piston ring, my finger

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Piston ring join.

I am rapidly running out of posting space, despite many more pics.  So I had better pause.  I didn’t get to the turbine engined pumps.  But I have many more photos…

Let me thank the very kind volunteers who spent time with me to talk about their engines at Kempton.  A marvellous experience.  I must return one day to see them under steam.

Trevithick Dredger Engine at The London Science Museum

I landed at Heathrow at 6am, dropped my bags at the BNB, then caught 2 buses to the Science Museum.  Not jet lagged, but on a high, to see the only intact Trevithick Dredger Engine known to exist.

The room which houses the Trevithick, also contains 4 large beam engines, a Parson’s turbine (of “Turbinia” fame), and a very large 2 cylinder compound.

Disconcertingly, the first atmospheric beam engine, with wooden beam, was partly obscured by a souvenir stall and racks of clothes for sale.  WTF!   Don’t they realise the historical importance and rarity of these engines.  And 3 further moans, to get them out of the way.   The descriptive labels on all items had minimal information.  Nothing like dimensions, power, etc.  The attendants knew virtually nothing about the engines.  And often, items were behind glass or perspex which was reflective, and prevented good visualisation or photography.   To be fair entrance was free, but to get past the entrance desk it seemed pretty clear that a “donation” of 5 pounds was expected, (which I was happy to contribute).   Those complaints aside, I have to say that the collections were fabulous.

I could see the Trevithick at the far end of the room, so to curb my mounting excitement, I forced myself to not rush up to it, but to try to look at every exhibit on the way.

Eventually I was there and it was there in front of me.

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It was one of the smallest engines in the room (The “Energy” hall).  The older beam engines were many times larger, but that was a major reason this engine was so successful..  more power, lighter, smaller, and several times more efficient at converting coal to rotative motion.  No one could tell me why there is a huge divot in the cast end of the boiler.

The con rods, stands, standard cross tie, and chimney are not original, but were added when the engine was restored in ~1875.  But that is now part of its history.

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From that side it was apparent that the main shaft was square over its entire length, something not previously known to me.

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The boiler feed pump was relatively tiny.  I do not know if it is original.

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The firebox has been re-sleeved.  The chimney mount is part of the end plate casting.  And I think that I got most of these items pretty close to right on my model.  Does anyone know what the incomplete flange at 5 0’clock would have been for?

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Note the odd bolt pattern around the inspection hatch.  I got that wrong.  My change to the oblique slide rod stay angle brackets was correct.

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safety valve weight is adjustable.

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Water preheater pipe detail.  Aren’t the square nuts great!

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The throttle restraints are curved, and have fixed position holes for pins.

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Boiler feed tank.  Cast iron.

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Engine supports appear to be cast integrally with the boiler.

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Flywheel hub

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Flywheel spoke detail.  Likely original.

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Chimney mount detail

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Finally (although I do have more photos), a nice view from above.  I do like the crosshead shape.  I wonder if it is original.  Remnants of another Trevithick dredger engine  not currently on display, reveal a wooden crosshead beam.

So there you are.  Fascinating to me.  Interesting enough I hope to you.  I could see no evidence of wooden lagging at all, but i still intend to install some on my model to slightly improve its efficiency.

i have heaps more photos of other exhibits which I may post later.

 

 

Broken Lathe Gear – Update.

I searched the lists of stock spur gears from international suppliers but I could not find a supplier of a 77 tooth, module 3 gear.  77 teeth is apparently unusual.  Plenty of suppliers for 76 and 78 tooth gears, but none for 77.

I did find an Ebay seller who had some old new stock of rotary HSS gear cutters and I  considered making a new gear.

But meanwhile, after airing the situation at a GSMEE meeting, I had a recommendation to try a local gear maker.   Well, fairly local.   He is 1 hour up the freeway.   But the phone calls were unanswered, repeatedly.  Another fellow GSMEE member also required a gear cut, for a telescope mount (a BIG telescope…. another story), and it was on his route home, so he called in, prepared to bang on the gear maker’s door.    Despite the industrial turn down in Australian manufacturing, the gear maker is so flat out with work, that he has stopped answering the phone.  But he received Frank very cordially, and was also very friendly and helpful to me when I turned up 2 hours later.

I took the broken gear and its shaft, and he is preparing a quote.  His initial recommendation is that the gear be replaced entirely, rather than repaired, or a toothed ring shrunk on.  So I am waiting for the quote.  But frankly, the lathe is unusable the way it is, so I cannot imagine rejecting the quote, unless it is so high that I am pushed back to making a gear myself.  I will post this when I get the quote.   Meanwhile, a photo, and a plug for the gear making business.

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This is Johnny, the owner manager of Sunshine Gears

Johnny proudly showed me around his factory, and we discussed the options for my job in detail.  He has many (~40) gear hobbing machines, lathes, mills, and jobs in progress.  He is just about to get his first CNC machine, a lathe.  The  machine in the photo was making a gear cluster of 6 or 7 different sized gears.

Sunshine Gears is at 14 First Avenue, Sunshine, Victoria.  Telephone 0393117152.   Probably best to just call in rather than telephone.

Post script.   After considering the quotes I have asked Johnny to make me a gear which I will attach to the original hub.  It should be ready for me to pick up when I return from my UK trip.   It saves several hundred dollars to do it this way, rather than getting the entire gear with hub made from scratch.

By the time this post is published I should be in the air…..

 

OZ to UK

Well, I am off to Blighty tomorrow, to check out the originals of some of the models which I have made in recent years, and to pay homage to Richard Trevithick.

First stop London.  And the first stop in London is the Science Museum, where I will head straight for the Trevithick Dredger Engine.  This particular engine was made in 1806, but was designed by Trevithick several years earlier.  It was used to power a dredger on the River Thames.  Later the design was used to make steam engines to power the mills and factories of industrial England.  About 600 were made altogether, but this is the only surviving intact example, having been found in ~1878, and restored, albeit with some non authentic features.

I am due to arrive at Heathrow at 6am, and I cannot book into my accomodation until 2pm, so I will front up at the museum and put my case into storage while I spend some happy hours with the Trevithick, and browsing some of the rest of the museum.  I believe that the museum also houses a model of the road steam vehicle, which was built by a clockmaker for Trevithick as a proof of concept model.

So my next post here will hopefully include some photos of the above.    It is planned that this will all follow a 22 hour flight from Oz, via Singapore.  Not sure what shape I will be in, but hopefully I will have something to show you.

The next few days in London are planned to include The London Water and Steam Museum at Kewbridge, the pumping station at Kempton, The Crossness Engine at Abbey Wood, HMS Belfast, and maybe a return visit to pay my respects to the Harrison Clocks at Greenwich.  Busy busy!

Then a 4+ hour drive to York.  If I leave early enough I should reach York with enough time to visit the viking museum, and maybe even fit in a visit to the glorious minster.

The next day is scheduled for the National Railway Museum, which I have never seen before, and has been recommended by many bloggers.  And I will be meeting a reader of this blog, who will be showing me around the rail museum, and other interesting sites around York.

And so on.

I hope to be able to post some photos as I progress, but that will depend on Internet connections at my booked accomodations.  All Air BNB.

Later stops will include Manchester, Coventry, Leicester, Swansea, Merthyr Tydfil, Camborne, Dartmouth, Portsmouth.  Each place has been chosen so I can see outstanding museums, engines, mines, historic ships and places significant for Richard Trevithick.

The final stop at Portsmouth was mainly to visit the Fort Nelson Museum so I can see the Dardanelles Cannon close up.  But I will not miss the opportunity to see the Henry 8’s Mary Rose, HMS Victory, HMS Warrior, the submarine museum  etc etc.    Ben L, I will be in Portsmouth Tues 28 May pm until Fri 31 am if you are able to meet, perhaps one evening?

If you are getting the impression that I am very excited about this trip, you are absolutely correct!     John.

 

MASADA

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Cover.  Looking down on the modern remains of the Roman camp from the Masada plateau.

MASADA by Phil Carradice

Mass Suicide in the First Jewish-Roman War, c. AD73

This is another title from Pen & Sword in the “History of Terror” series.  128 pages, soft cover.

Masada, in case you are unaware, was a mountain top fortress in Judea, where Jewish men, women and children fought off veteran Roman legions for 2 years.  The traditional story is that facing defeat, the 960 defenders committed mass suicide.

There is only one source for the story, and that was Josephus Flavius, a contemporary Jewish general who was captured by, then joined the Romans.  His information, veracity, motives and biases are therefore suspect; however, some aspects of the story have been validated by modern archeological evidence.

The account of the siege, the defences, the huge ramp which was constructed by the Romans, and the details of the ultimate Roman victory, is compelling, riveting reading. The dissection of the available evidence is thorough, and various alternative possible scenarios are weighed.

Modern use of the Masada story by the nation of Israel is also discussed.

Australia’s worst military defeat (Gallipoli) is our national Remembrance Day. It is telling that Masada, also a defeat, has become the source of national pride for Israel.

An excellent read.

Dr  John Viggers.

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Rear cover photo. Modern remains of the Roman ramp.

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And just for some perspective of the site, watch this superb video

A Fraternal Photo

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Me and my brother Peter.  No doubting the genes.

My brother also makes steam engines, but he prefers the ones which move on steel rails. Unfortunately he lives a long way away, in the deep north of Australia, so we see him and his wife only once a year or so.

Free History Books

I received this notice from Pen & Sword Publishers today.  I have not tested the offer, but I can vouch for its authenticity.  So if you are into Napoleonic history, and would like some free books (ebooks actually), then go for it!

Good Morning!
This Sunday marks the anniversary of Napoleons death, to coincide with this anniversary Pen and Sword will be giving away four eBooks for free from Amazon. I wondered if you would be able to share this with your readers, if you are doing a post around this anniversary. It’s not often we give away eBooks for free, so I am keen to spread the word as far as possible! Here’s the four eBooks that will be free on the day and the Amazon link to download the titles.
Have fun on Sunday (UK or US timezone I presume)
John

A New Hobby for Metalworkers (a book review)

You guys could consider a new hobby, to balance your personalities, and develop the artistic side of your brains.  (can’t remember which side of the brain that is, but here is my suggestion…)

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Hard cover, 120pp, from Pen and Sword Publishers.

UZBEKISTAN.  AN EXPERIENCE OF CULTURAL TREASURES TO COLOUR

This book was surprising.

I was expecting wonderful pictures of Islamic art from Bukhara, Tashkent, Samarkand and other central Asian cities of the Silk Road.  And indeed, every second page is a full page colour picture of the amazing tile work, mosaics, ornaments, paintings and fabrics from Uzbekistan.

Every other page is a fine line drawing of the corresponding colour page.  What was most surprising to me, is that this is actually a COLOURING BOOK.   The drawing pages are there to be coloured in.

SWMBO tells me this is a common adult hobby, used for relaxation and stress relief, and making beautiful artistic pictures.  Well I don’t see myself swapping steam engine making for colouring-in exercises, but horses for courses.

Whatever, this is a beautiful, large format book, and will be enjoyed by anyone who enjoys the superb, stylistic, Islamic decorative arts.  If stress relieving colouring-in is your thing, well, so much the better.

Dr  John Viggers.

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The right hand page is for colouring-in, probably after scanning to art paper.  (might make interesting patterns to CNC engrave too.)

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ps.   No luck finding spare gears for the big lathe, but lots of suggestions from my readers.  Thanks bloggers.  I will let you know what happens.

 

Lathe Woes

Removed the gear with the broken tooth from my GBC 400-1000 lathe yesterday, with some help from my brother.    Approached the disassembly a bit nervously.  Did not want to break or damage anything else.

First took some photographs, so I can put things back together eventually, in the correct places and order.

Then removed the chuck, then the back gears, then the large heavy plates at each end of the spindle.  The cap screws came out without any drama, but the end plates required breaking free of the paint, and out of the tightly fitting mounting rebates.

Then loosened the big nuts against the internal gears, the external gears, and one grub screw.

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Tabbed locknut undone, allowing the gear cluster to be slipped and driven towards the left, eventually allowing the spindle to be removed.

Gradually removed the spindle by tapping the gears along the spindle with brass drifts.  Pretty tight.  And retrieved the little bits as they fell into the oil in the headstock.

Was finally able to lift the spindle out through the chuck end of the headstock.  It is heavy.   Took two of us to lift it out without damaging the outer races of the tapered roller bearings.

Then looked at the broken gear, and retrieved the tooth from the headstock oil.

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The broken tooth.  Unfortunately, on closer inspection, and adjacent tooth is also cracked.  And very likely more are on the way.   This is more serious than initially thought.  It is a big heavy gear, 240mm dia, with a 65mm long collar,

Next step was to look closely at the meshing gear.

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With a good light, and getting close I still had trouble checking for cracks.  Only when I looked at this photo did I realise that I had forgotten to change my sunglasses.   Ah, the joys of getting old and forgetful.

Meanwhile, I remembered a tool which might help with the inspection….

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It is a cheap fiberoptic inspection camera.  Worked fairly well here, and I am reasonably happy that the other gear is not cracked.   But it did convince me that I should have bought a better quality fiberoptic camera.  Put it on the wish list.

So, I have a large, hardened steel gear with at least 2 cracked/broken teeth.  Options?….

  1. Buy a new gear.  I will try, but not confident.  The local importer of these particular Chinese lathes went out of business last year.
  2. Get a new gear made.  I will get a quote.
  3. Make a new gear myself.  Or, if all else fails….
  4. Machine off the teeth of the damaged gear, and the adjacent 20-30mm.   Then make a new set of teeth on a ring which will be attached to the old core of the damaged gear.
  5. Use the lathe without that gear.   This option does not appeal.
  6. Install a VSD and use electronic control of spindle speeds.  The main spindle motor is 5HP, so it is possible.

More information required.  Watch this space.

Read the rest of this entry »

Back in the workshop, a Lathe Problem…

I have a problem with my big Chinese lathe.  I was hearing a KNOCK-KNOCK-KNOCK as the main spindle was revolving at low speeds with one setting of the gears.

It is a GBC 1000-400 lathe, meaning that it has a maximum of 1000mm between centres, and it will turn a 400 mm disk.  It weighs 2 tons.  Has been quite useful when turning flywheels, big lumps of metal, large pieces of wood and so on.

So today I removed the cover from the headstock and had a look.   The cause of the knock was quickly obvious.

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The headstock of the GBC 1000-400

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The big gear on the main spindle at bottom.   See the broken tooth?  The meshing gear is intact.

So, what do I do about this?   I need some suggestions, people.

Thoughts so far….

  1. remove the spindle, remove the gear and bronze braze a replacement piece of steel or bronze, then machine a new tooth.
  2. same as 1, except use silver solder.
  3. same as 1 or 2, except do the job insitu (after draining all of the gearbox oil, and screening off the other headstock parts).  Unfortunately the missing tooth is close to the headstock case, so filing or grinding a new tooth would be tricky.
  4. leave it as is, and just avoid using that gear.  I can do that.  It removes 3 of the 9 gear ratios, including the slowest speed (40 rpm), and is not an elegant, or desired solution.

So what do you think?   The gear is most likely made of steel rather than cast iron, from its appearance.  The base of the break is shiny, smooth and not porous.

Here are some pics of the ends of the main spindle.   It does not look too complicated to remove the main spindle, but what would I know.

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The main spindle is the one in the centre.

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And the other end, with a self centering 4 jaw in place.

I imagine that the main spindle bearings will be pre-loaded, tapered, roller bearings.  I certainly do not want to damage them.  And how difficult will it be to reinstall the bearings and main spindle?   I imagine that it will involve some careful and precise work.   Am I taking on a job which is way beyond my abilities?   If anyone has experience of this task I would be delighted to hear your views.   I have no drawings or plans of the headstock to assist.

(In parentheses, when I was a teenager, I remember my father pulling a Toyota Crown automatic gearbox to bits, identifying a fault, and fixing it.  There were bits of the gearbox everywhere.  But he fixed the problem.  He was not a mechanic, but he had a go at things, and usually managed the task, as in that case.  Similarly, I dont mind having a go at this lathe job, but I would prefer not to risk destroying the lathe, so any expert opinions will be welcome.   Option 4 above remains a possibility.)

 

The Trafalgar Chronicle

Another terrific read from Pen and Sword!  Particularly relevant for me, as I will be visiting “Victory” at Portsmouth, UK, in a few weeks.

TRAFALGAR CHRONICLE edited by Peter Hore

This is the first volume of articles on the subject of the Georgian period navy, ie. The epoch of Trafalgar, Nelson, Napoleon, 1812 war etc.    The volume contains 17 individually authored articles, maps, quality black and white and colour plates, notes and contributors’ biographies.

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For this general reader, most of the articles were very interesting, but some contained a level of detail which would be more of interest to researchers.

I particularly enjoyed the articles about  the American in The Royal Navy, Frederic Rolette, and Nelson as a junior officer.   I am certain that “Victory” modelers will find invaluable, the analysis in “What Did HMS Victory Actually Look Like?”

The crucial role of James Cook in the conquest of the French in Quebec was fascinating to this antipodean, who was not previously  aware of this period of Cook’s career.

I look forward to further volumes in this series which are intended to be published annually.  (This review covers Book 1 of the new series.  Since I wrote this review Books 2 and 3 have been published.  I hope to review 2 and 3 soon.)

Dr John Viggers

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My readers might be wondering why most of the books which I am reviewing in johnsmachines.com are “highly recommended”.  The reason is simple.  The books which I read and decide are crap do not get reviewed by me at all.  The ones which you will see in the blog also exclude those which I have decided are just OK.  The ones which you will read about here are those which I have really enjoyed, like “The Trafalgar Chronicle”.

 

How the world’s greatest navy was defeated by beginners. A book review.

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ROME SEIZES THE TRIDENT by Marc G. DeSantis

This oddly titled book is a most interesting retelling of the three Punic wars, with an emphasis on the contest for naval supremacy.

Carthage was the naval superpower of the Mediterranean, and Rome had almost no seafaring history or capability.  Yet Rome won the naval contest.  This book explains how.  It also explains how the destruction of Carthage was the single most important event in the forging of the Roman empire, yet also planted the seeds for Rome’s eventual fall.

The author includes fascinating information about the design and construction of  galleys, and the financial and manpower implications of the massive undertaking of building a navy from scratch.

I particularly enjoyed chapter 4 which explained the technology,  capabilities and limitations of galleys, and the implications and risks of various strategies such as ramming.  Rome’s use of the corvus, which permitted the use of its famed infantry in sea battles, provided a technological edge for a few years but was ultimately discontinued, probably due to a resulting reduction in seaworthiness of the galleys caused by the heavy corvus.

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The book includes a few maps (too few in my opinion, and not all locations in the text are on the maps) , and diagrams of the likely appearance of the corvus.  It is well written, and appealed to this general reader. It should particularly appeal to students of ancient history, military history, naval history, and ship construction.

Hardback, 253 pages, including notes and references, bibliography, index.  Pen & Sword.

Highly recommended.    Dr  John Viggers.

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Early Railways…A Guide for the Modeller (a book review)

When I saw this title from Pen and Sword, I thought “wonderful”.  Anticipating information about the Pen-y-darren railway, for which Richard Trevithick designed the world’s first useable steam locomotive.  I will be staying at Pen-y-darren near Merthyr Tidfil, Wales,  in a few weeks.  I know that little of the coal mine railway remains, but I just want to soak up the ambience of the area.

But to my disappointment, there is no mention of Trevithick or Pen-y-darren in the book.  An astounding oversight IMO.

Otherwise, the book is excellent, although I do feel unqualified to comment about model railways.

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It is hard cover, 120 pages, richly illustrated with photos, diagrams, and plans of railway locomotives, carriages, tracks, signals, uniforms, tunnels, stations etc etc from 1830-1880.

The chapters are:   Introduction (which should not be skipped) 1. Mike Sharman – pioneer modeller of early railways, 2. Infrastructure, 3. Locomotives 4. Carriages  5. Waggons  6. Layouts and models  Appendix of sources of supply for modellers, and a brief index.

This book is a quality production.  Carefully and articulately written, and beautifully illustrated.

I have had no previous particular interest in model railways, but after reading this book, I do wonder what I have been missing.

Here are a few pages chosen at random.

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The illustrations are profuse, well chosen, high quality and interesting.

This book will be enjoyed by anyone who is interested in railways 1830-80, and especially modellers.

Dr John Viggers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trevithick Engine by Lumix, and an Ottoman cannon.

Some more photos with the Panasonic Lumix LX100M2.

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The Trevithick dredger engine, still lacking lagging and paint.  The chimney has a chimney extension connector, sitting a bit crooked.

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I am very impressed by the quality of these photos.

And some shots of the 1:10 model Ottoman Dardanelles cannon, which I made a few years ago.  It was intended as a practice run in wood, before making it in bronze.  The wooden model is 600mm (2′) long, and since finishing it I have not felt the need to make a bronze example.  I plan to visit the original at Fort Nelson, Portsmouth, in a few weeks. Watch out for a video/photographs on johnsmachines.com

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I think that you will agree that the quality of these photos is excellent.  The photographer is still learning.

Travel

Hi bloggers!

Sorry about the intervals between posts lately.  I have been busy with other stuff.  Mainly to do with planning my trip to UK in May.  But also doing jobs for SWMBO as she requires (part of the price for going on my own to UK).

Also, my CNC mill is not working.  The Y axis suddenly stopped functioning.  I pulled out the servo motor, a heavy, awkward job, and Stuart discovered a broken wire leading to the encoder.  That was fixed.  Reinstalled the servo and the mill seemed fine.  Then the same fault recurred.   So later today I will pull out the servo again, and take another look.

This post will be mainly about a new camera which I have bought, instigated by my forthcoming trip.

 

It is a Panasonic Lumix LX100M2.  And although small, its capabilities are astounding (at least to me, who has not bought a camera for almost 10 years- except for the iphone camera, which is also astounding.)

And this the reason I bought it.

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The Nikon D300 is still a great camera, and I have some excellent lenses and other gear for it, but it is just so big and heavy.

The Lumix does not quite fit into a pocket, but the cameras which are that bit smaller,  have other limitations… like controls which are too close together for my older, fatter and clumsier fingers.

It is also a video camera, and Panasonic do excellent video cameras.  One major minus is the absence of a microphone jack.  The built in mike is ‘OK’.

I am still learning how to use this technological marvel.  It has a few surprises.  One was a feature which takes multiple photos of single object at different focus points.  This allows picking the frame which has the best part in focus.

It has Bluetooth, and Wi-Fi, but I have been unable to get them to connect with my iphone or computer, despite following the instructions.  Need some help on that one.

I wont list all the features.  Look it up if you are interested.  Instead, I will show you some of the first shots which I have taken.  These are all taken at 8 megapixels rather than the maximum 17-20, to reduce uploads and storage space.

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This is a shot where I chose the focus point after shooting.  I could also have amalgamated all of the shots so every point was in focus.

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I am very pleased with the picture quality, but wish that it did not show the machining mistakes.  Must get around to bogging and painting.  It has a fixed  zoom lens, 17-20 megapixel, mirrorless.  This is 3:2 format.  The previous picture was 1:1 format.

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Bronze statue in Geelong’s Botanic Gardens.  One of only a few of these of Queen Victoria in existence.  The Lumix does not have a cropping facility (that I have found), so this was cropped after loading onto the computer.  (21/4/19- found the cropping facility, and heaps of other options buried in menus.   My admiration for this camera grows as I am becoming familiar with it.)

The video capability also seems very good, and you will see evidence of that as I post stuff on my trip.

 

Sir Ding Dong.

Not much happening in the workshop.  Visited by my middle daughter and family this weekend.

The boys are now 3, and responsive enough to not touch hot or moving parts and to watch out for wriggly pets.  I have seen 3 so far this season.

So we decided to give the boys some exposure to live steam.  They were intrigued by lighting the fire in the boiler, then adding wood and coal, and building up steam.  Nervously then enthusiastically operating the whistle.

Then the fun bit.

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Sir Ding Dong is a 3″ scale 2 cylinder compound steam traction engine.  It will tow this load easily.

We have had virtually no autumn rain yet, and the ground cover is very dry.  But it was a sunny and windless day, so it seemed safe enough to operate the steam engine.  No problems.  The kids, aged 3 to 69, loved it.

 

Oh, and by the way, the Trevithick dredger engine boiler passed its final inspection!  WooHoo!

 

Video of the gas burner which works

The first 6 minutes of the video  is getting up to 40psi.  Then a couple of minutes of the engine working.   Big file, so be patient.

At Last, a burner which does the job!

You are probably fed up with my burner trials.  I certainly was.

Fundamentally, I was trying to get enough heat into the Trevithick model dredger engine boiler, and just not managing it.  My boiler is a scaled down version of the original, in copper.  It takes a lot more heat than the 6″ vertical boiler which I made last year and I think that the reasons are…

  1.  The Trevithick design, although revolutionary for 1800 was and is a very simple, primitive, relatively inefficient design by later standards.   No water tubes and only one fire tube (the flue).
  2. The linear dimension is scaled down 1:8.  The surface areas (heat exchange surfaces) are scaled down 1:64.  The volumes, representing power output, are scaled down 1:512.  So the scale is a major factor.
  3. The firebox is 60mm diameter.  I had no success burning coal or wood, although I gave up on that one quickly after one attempt.
  4. Absence of lagging.  Reproductions of Trevithick’s engines have wooden lagging, but there was no indication of lagging on the LSM engine, or in the 1819 drawing.  I do intend to install wooden lagging, in fact I have cut and prepared the strips ready to install.

So my colleague Stuart suggested that I try his Sievert burner…

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This is a Sievert 2954.  Stuart tells me that at full blast it puts out over 40kW!   The ring is steel, machined to fit the firebox, and a close fit to prevent cold air being sucked around the edges.

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Fitted into the firebox.  It coped reasonably well with the back pressure at about 1/2 strength. 

This unit raised steam from 2500cc of cold water in 10 minutes, and got to 20psi in 14 minutes.  The target of 40psi was reached in 18 minutes.

At 40psi the safety valve operated, and despite continuing to pour in the heat, the pressure did not rise above 40psi.  So I am expecting that the boiler inspector will be happy with the safety valve.

I then ran the engine for 45 minutes, turning the boiler feed pump on and off to keep the boiler water level up.  All went well.  I have made a video of the event, but the upload failed last night, so I will try again later.

Next, to contact the boiler inspector for the final (I hope) inspection.

 

Travel Appeal

Relax.  this appeal is not asking for money.

I have been wanting to see  1. the Trevithick dredger engine in the London Science Museum  2. The Dardanelles cannon at Southampton  3. The Musee des Artes Et Metiers (Paris)   4. The York train museum   …. for ages.   And waiting for months and months for SWMBO to agree to set aside the time to do so.  Finally, today, I had a frank discussion with her.

And she has agreed!  I am going alone.   Considering my aims, that suits both of us.

There is a price to pay (of course), but more about that some other time.

The appeal is for recommendations of what to see.  I lived in UK for almost 2 years, 1979-80.  But I was working hard, and sightseeing was brief and of the traditional tourist variety…  stately homes and countryside mostly.  Beautiful and interesting.

But this trip will be for me only.  And I daresay that my readers will get some reports too.  I want to see industrial England.   Probably wont get to Wales, Scotland or Ireland this trip.     Going early May to early June.  Will probably be mainly London, Southampton, Cornwall, Manchester, Birmingham, York areas.

So, if you know of a particular engine, museum, ship, or industrial history site, or other industrial/scientific “must see” in England or Paris, please leave a comment.

I am also considering a new camera.  I dont fancy carting around my excellent and reliable, but large and heavy Nikon with lenses and flash guns, but I want something a bit more versatile than the iPhone, and something that will take videos.   I have not looked at cameras for a couple of decades, and suspect that the options might have changed somewhat.  Recommendations welcome, please.

Another Good Read. “The Mongol Art of War”

I will not be in the workshop for a few days, so I will post some more reviews of books which I have really enjoyed.  (you don’t want to hear about the ones which I thought were crap do you?)

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Paperback, 211pp, Pen & Sword Military.

THE MONGOL ART OF WAR  by Timothy May

In the thirteenth century the Mongol armies, led by Chinggis Khan and his successors, swept out of the depths of central Asia to conquer China, most of Asia, and much of  Eastern Europe to form the largest contiguous empire which has ever existed.

It was probably only the death of the Khan which prevented the Mongols from conquering all of Europe, in their quest to rule the entire world.

The Mongols rarely lost a battle. 

Dr Timothy May is an expert in Mongol history , and in this eminently  readable book he analyses the available evidence to explain how armies of horse archers took walled cities and defeated heavily armored European knights.   Much of the history of the Mongol conquests is described, but the book is more about how and why the Mongol armies were so successful.

As usual with successful warlords, the Mongol characteristics described are intelligent and ruthless leadership, terror, adoption of new technologies, effective organization, and disciplined soldiers. 

There is finally a most interesting description of the legacy of the Mongol “art of war”, including how the tactics and high degree of mobility of the horse archer armies has been studied and copied by more modern armies, including the panzer forces of the Germans in WW2.

As expected in a book written by a respected academic, there is an extensive glossary, and extra notes for each chapter, select bibliography, and index.

This book will appeal to the general reader, as well as students of the era.

Another excellent read from Pen and Sword.  Highly recommended.

Dr JCL Viggers.

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Some basic, but quite useful line drawn maps

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More Gas Burner Experimenting

First I tried the Sievert 2943.  I tried different gas settings, and different positions of the burner in the fire box.  I quickly discovered that an opening had to be present next to the supporting flange.  Despite that, steam was produced in 10 minutes, and 20psi was achieved in 15 minutes.  My aim is to obtain 40psi, and maintain 40psi during engine operation.

Unfortunately this burner does not work if there is any significant back pressure in the system.  Stuart has advised me to try the Sievert 2954 which he says will cope better with back pressure.  The Sievert 2954 has a similar appearance to the 2943, so I have not photographed it.

I have borrowed a Sievert 2954, but it needs some setting up, so I thought that meanwhile I would try a burner style which had been mentioned earlier.  It is a tube with multiple transverse slots.  Despite being constructed rather roughly and quickly, it produced a good hot flame.  Perhaps a bit small, but promising.

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If the next Sievert is not satisfactory I will come back to this style, and experiment with different slot numbers and sizes.

If you are becoming a bit bored with all of these gas burner experiments, I understand.  When the burner is finally sorted I will be delighted and relieved.

I have machined some wood to be used for lagging.  It is West Australian Jarrah.  A dark coloured wood which is often used for exterior flooring.  I will apply it to the boiler soon.

 

Experiment Failure

Sometimes information derived from a failed experiment is just as useful as a successful experiment.  Several readers predicted that burning coal would not not work in my dredger engine boiler, but I had to be convinced.

So, I removed the gas burner.

I have 3 types of coal.  One is Welsh steaming coal in 25-30mm lumps.  It has an attractive shiny appearance.  The other is coal lumps which were picked up next to a local railway line and are probably from Newcastle NSW.  I also have some brown coal, but it is in the form of briquettes, and I did not attempt to use them.

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Welsh steaming coal top, railway line droppings bottom.  All too big. 

Both black coal types were too big for the ~60x40mm diameter firebox in the dredger engine.  How to make them smaller?

Smash them up with a hammer and pass them through a sieve?  That would leave a lot of unusable tiny fragments as well as bigger bits.  And be very messy.  And require making a sieve.   If my experiment was successful that is what I would do in future.  Did not happen.

Meanwhile, I tried a hammer with a splitter edge.  The Welsh coal had definite layers, and split fairly predictably, with not too much dust or tiny fragments.   The Australian coal crumbled unpredictably into many fragments with a much lower usability fraction.

I started the fire with newspaper, then pine and hardwood kindling.  I should have paid more attention to the wood sizing, because it was problematic getting the wood alight.  Also, I had not set up a blower for the chimney.  I was relying on a really long chimney extension to provide enough draught.

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Chimney extension.  worked well.  Now what is that black circular patch on the ceiling?

Got the fire going with the assistance of a gas torch.  When the fire got going the draught seemed adequate.

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The wood fire at its best

Tried to add coal lumps, but they would not fit the firebox while the wood lengths were in place.  Firebox is just too small.  So I persisted with wood.  Soaked some in mineral turps.

I was not impressed with the appearance of the fire, but surprisingly, eventually, steam was produced, but never enough pressure to run the engine.  And the fire did require constant attention.  The front of the boiler was quite dirty after all of this.  I am glad that I have not yet painted it.

I will give the wood + coal fire another attempt, but size the pieces better (smaller).  The Sievert type burner is looking more likely.

Later in the day…..

…after a further discussion with Stuart I have decided to try the Sievert burner.   Made some steel rings which are a press fit on the burner, and an easy sliding fit inside the firebox.

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This is the new burner inside the firebox.  Not exactly @Trevithick, but I bet that he would have used it if it had been an option.

I still need to make a fitting to hook up a valve and the propane hose.  And try it out maybe tomorrow.  Another experiment.  I hope to not see flames shooting out of the chimney.

 

 

A Coal Grate. And Monster Emperors of Rome.

Firstly, the book review.  It is short, because I did not enjoy it.  Not that it is badly written, or poorly researched.  But it is really shocking.

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EMPERORS OF ROME.  THE MONSTERS.  by PAUL CHRYSTAL

From Tiberius to Theodora.  AD 145-548

This book is one of the series published by Pen & Sword on the architects of terror. Other volumes include Al-Qaeda, The Armenian Genocide, Bloody Mary, Einsatzgruppen, to give you an idea of the scope of the series.

Now that I have finished with the book, I am examining my own motives in choosing it.  I have read many books about ancient Rome, and find the era fascinating; the personalities, the reasons for the rise and fall of the empire, why the military was so spectacularly successful etc etc.

But to be truthful, I did not actually finish the book.  I had a similar reaction when I read about the Nazis and the concentration camps.  Just too horrible to contemplate.  And I closed it after reading about half.  And will not reopen it.

Paul Chrystal is a well-respected author who has written many books about ancient Rome. He states an aim to use primary sources, and to balance the horror with the mitigating aspects of the monsters. The book is 127 pages long, and it covers 10 emperors, so there is not a lot of space to give a balanced view. Mostly, despite its aims, the book is about rape, murder, treachery, nasty and insane men and women with absolute power doing whatever they felt like doing.

And to be realistic, even the “good” emperors started wars, executed rivals, instigated massacres and mass maimings.  That was the way things happened in ancient Rome. And twentieth century Germany, China, Cambodia etc etc.

So, if you enjoy seemingly endless descriptions of sadistic torture, rape and mass murders, with many illustrations, this book might be for you.

Not for this this reviewer though.

John V.

Now, back to getting enough heat into the 1:8 Trevithick Dredger Engine.

I have made a grate to place into the firebox, and which will replace the gas burner, which has proved to be inadequate, despite many, many experiments with improving it.  So here is the grate.

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Putting a rather unpleasant book to good use.

The holes in the grate are tapered, with the smallest part of the holes uppermost.  The fold at the back is to prevent coal being pushed off.  The taper is to prevent clogging the holes with clinker, and possibly to improve the velocity of air flow through the fire.

And how did I drill so many small holes so neatly?

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CNC of course.  Took about 45 minutes.

But after that I had a conversation with Stuart Tankard.  He reckons that I will do no better with coal than I have with propane to date.   Hmmm.   Might give it a go anyway.

Stuart’s suggestion is to try one of these….

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It is 50mm diameter, has a large jet (0.81mm diameter) and has a fearsome flame.  Looks more like a silver soldering torch.  If I use it I might get a flame coming out of the chimney.  Hope that it does not melt the silver solder.

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine. Gas or Coal?

Despite my best efforts, and good advice from experienced modellers, I have not been successful with using propane as fuel.  The engine runs, but I cannot get the boiler pressure over 20-22 psi, and that is not adequate.  Partly the problem is that the Trevithick boiler is the FIRST high pressure boiler ever, and is rather simple and primitive.  I do have alternative propane solutions, but they involve redesigning and remaking the burner.  I might end up doing just that, but meanwhile I am going to try coal.

I use coal to fire my 3″ scale traction engine.  It is messy, dirty, and a bit of a pain to get fired up.   But once going it is HOT.  And smells good.  But needs constant attention, observation, and skill.  Not just a matter of adjusting a gas knob.

But, the original Trevithick dredger engines used coal.  Or wood.  Or dried alpaca dung.

So I intend to build a coal grate.  The firebox is only 65mm diameter, so the coal lumps will need to be small, about 1cm diameter I guess.  I will make some sort of crusher to reduce the size of the traction engine coal.

I have made a start on the grate.    Again, it is all experimental.  And I will need a blower of some sort.  Maybe a small computer fan on the chimney.   All fun.   Wait and see.

No book review today!   And Antarctica and moon not mentioned!  I do have  a review in the wings about the Roman emperors who were monsters.  But another day for that one.

Not Another Book Review!

Yup!

I am still experimenting with the gas burner on the Trevithick, and frankly, totally over it.  So much so that I am considering scrapping the gas burner, and seeing if coal will get better steam pressures.

But nothing to show yet.   So another book review.

This one is another ripper!  I bet that most of you have never heard of Mithridates The Great!  That is because of our Rome-centric ancient history.  Everyone knows a bit about Julius Caesar.  And maybe even heard of Spartacus, Hannibal, and Attila.

But Mithridates has been described as Rome’s deadliest enemy, with good reason.   Here is the book review….

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MITHRIDATES THE GREAT by Philip Matyszak 

 

(or GAME OF THRONES minus dragons and nightwalkers).

Why bother with fiction when real history is as dramatic and complex and shocking as this story?

Mithridates the Great was arguably the greatest threat to republican Rome in its pre common era history, even taking into account Hannibal,  Spartacus etc.  That he did not finally succeed was not due to lack of resources, military skill, wealth or intelligence.  He faced the awesome might of the best infantry in the ancient world, and some of the best generals that Rome ever produced.  As the king of Pontus, a small country on the Black Sea between Rome, Parthia (Persia), and the barbarian tribes of central Asia, he fought Rome intermittently for over 50 years.  And, according to this book, he came very close to winning.

Matyszak describes a man of intelligence, imposing stature, commanding personality. Generous and loyal to his friends, utterly ruthless to his enemies, and guilty of treachery, mass murder, fratricide, matricide, filicide and every other “cide” in the dictionary.  He arranged the murder in one day of 80,000 civilian Romans, to bind certain cities to his cause.  He ordered his entire harem to suicide rather than let it fall into the hands of his enemy.

He returned from hopeless situations many times, but as an old man, following treachery by a son, he took his own life, and his kingdom was added to the Roman empire.  The reader knows that it will not end well for Mithridates, but I found myself hoping against hope that it could somehow be different.

This book is a terrific read.  Even though it is only 180 pages long, (plus references, maps, picture section etc), I found it richly rewarding.  It is not quick reading.  It kept me going for almost 2 weeks, where I normally devour a book in 2-3 days.  I often needed to re-read sections, to adequately grasp the details.  The language is mostly precise and articulate, peppered with humorous but appropriate modern jargon.  (e.g. p155 “Mithridates had left several juicy castles stuffed with treasure” )

Incidents which are based on less reliable sources are identified, and the author offers personal interpretations which seem quite believable.   The summing up of the epilogue was particularly useful. 

One aspect, which I found annoying, was the paucity of place names and total absence of scale on any of the maps.  Many places are mentioned in the text which do not appear on the maps.  

The book is intended for the general reader rather than the academic but I suspect that it might be confusing if the reader does not have some familiarity with the history of late republican Rome. Eg. It would be an advantage if the reader knows something of characters such as Sulla, Pompey and Sertorius.  The 13 page introduction is an excellent summary of the situation of the Mediterranean world in the first century BC and should not be skipped over.

J. V.

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Good maps, except no scale.

 

The Battleship Builders (another book review)

This one is just to demonstrate to reader Stan that some of my book reviews are positive.

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Hard Cover,

UK £30.00 Seaforth Publishing,  available at Pen and Sword Military.

 

THE BATTLESHIP BUILDERS  Constructing and Arming British Capital Ships

By Ian Johnston and Ian Buxton

I am writing this review less than 24 hours after opening this book.  It is a gem!  I admit to so far reading only 5 of the 13 chapters, and those almost at random, in preference to a night’s sleep, and I am greatly anticipating devouring the remainder.

The subject is the making of battleships 1863-1945.  320 pages, triple columns, and a cornucopia of photographs, tables, plans, diagrams and maps. 

I like history, engineering awes me, and I appreciate thoroughness and detail.  This book has it all. 

Despite the mass of detail, the writing style is clear and articulate and easy to read.

At this time I have read the chapters on armament, armour, money, and the introduction and conclusions.  I will soon go back to the powering, the facilities, the building, etc.  I was wondering just how they did make, shape, and attach steel armour up to 12 inches thick to the sides of ships*.  And how did they make those huge guns?  It is all there, including detailed descriptions and photographs of the manufacturing processes, the factories, the work forces, the costs, the materials, the physical handling of the huge pieces, the testing.  And the corruption, and the cost to the national economy. 

A fascinating story.   Absolutely, thoroughly recommended.

*spoiler alert!  The armour plates were bolted from the inside, into threaded holes, using bolts 3-4 inches diameter.  The holes were made and threaded before the plates were hardened.  The plates had tongue and groove edges.

After writing this I read the remaining chapters, and I confirm that this is an awesome book.  Well written, plenty of pictures diagrams and tables, and thorough.   So there Stan!

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If you have ANY interest in battleships and their construction, buy this one!

 

 

 

M1 ABRAMS TANK (a book review)

One of my interests is history, particularly military history, and I have been writing book reviews for an English Publisher, Pen and Sword Military, for several years.

Activity in my workshop is not particularly photogenic at present, so my posts have become less frequent.   I wonder if my readers might be interested some book reviews to fill the gaps.

So here is a review of a recent read.  I will be interested in any feedback, positive or negative.   Please be assured that my primary interest on this blog remains making and using machines, and any book reviews will only be used to plug gaps.  Might make a change from my obsession with Antarctica?

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UK. £14.99    US $24.95   Paperback, with a quality texture.  Glossy paper, 184 pages.

M1 ABRAMS TANK  by Michael Green

As an uninformed but curious reader, I was interested to find out about this, the world’s best known Main Battle Tank (MBT).

 “MBT” is one of the many, many, acronyms used in tank parlance.  Indeed, at times I felt that that the main purpose for the text of the book was to list and explain the meaning of the acronyms.  But that is a bit unfair.   The Abrams tank has been in use for almost 40 years, and is projected to be in use until 2050, so it is not surprising that it has seen multiple versions and revisions, and those do need to be explained.

The history of the development of the tank is well explained.

At the end of the book I found myself unsatisfied however, and felt the need for some perspective.  Of just how the M1 Abrams compares with other modern tanks.  Of how much it costs.  Of how governments finance it.  And how it will be used in future conflicts with increasing use of unmanned weapons. I got answers to those questions from Internet searches.  I suppose that the author is to be congratulated for being the stimulus to such searches, but I feel a little disappointed that the information was not included in the book.  I was also rather disappointed that there was no recounting of battle tales and experiences. Just what was it like to be a tanker, in the desert wars in an Abrams tank?

The 184 pages are crammed with excellent, large, colour photographs, and some diagrams. Perhaps the excellent photographs are the main justification for the book.

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So that is the review.  What is your reaction?

 

 

 

 

A Visit to The Boiler Inspector

My colleague and friend Swen is building a 1″ scale traction engine, and he is about to commence the boiler.  He wanted to discuss some issues regarding the plans with the club boiler inspector.  I had some questions regarding the Trevithick Dredger Engine final inspection, so I tagged along.

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Swen (purple T shirt) and Adrian discussing the traction engine boiler plans.

The boiler inspector is a marine engineer, currently working on tug boats, but with a lifetime of experience in ocean going ships.  His personal interest is mainly with steam and other trains.  But he is very happy to watch the progress of older, more historic models, like the Trevithick.  But always the emphasis is on safety.   Safety over historicity, authenticity, etc.   As it should be.

I was interested to note that Australia’s model steam regulations are widely used as the bench mark in other countries.

My current obstacles to final boiler certification are

  1.  The boiler feed pump is not working.  When I described the situation to Adrian he diagnosed the problem as the suction ball valve.  So afterwards I was working on that.  I have attached a sacrificial ball to a brass rod, and given it a firm whack to the seat.
  2. The difficulty getting the boiler pressure up to the pressure to demonstrate that the safety valve is working. Using propane, I can get the pressure up to 22psi, which is adequate to run the engine, but not high enough to make the safety valve release.  Adrian suggested that I reduce the mass of the lead weight, so it releases at 35psi rather than the current 40-45psi.  And to consider lagging the boiler.   The picture from 1819 shows the dredger engine boiler unlagged.  But the Pen-y-darren engine and the “Catch-Me-Who-Can”  and the Cambourne Road loco are all lagged.   So I suspect that Trevithick would have approved if the dredger engines were lagged.   So guess what?   I am going to lag my dredger engine, and I hope that if Richard Trevithick is watching that he will approve.   I will use Australian hardwood, and paint or stain it black.  Or maybe some English oak, if I can find some in my workshop.   The lead ball in my model is much bigger than shown in the 1819 drawings, so I will have no hesitation in making a smaller one.
  3. What is the water volume of the boiler?  I knew that I had to use 2000ml to get the water half way up the water gauge, but I did not know the actual volume of the boiler.  So today I measured it.   Surprisingly, it was 2750ml.   Almost 3 litres!   No wonder it takes 20 minutes to get it steaming!

So, very close to the final inspection.

Meanwhile, there is very little of pictorial interest for this blog.   So I decided to show some of my workshop(s).

Next, in response to reader Tim, I will show my silver soldering and brazing setup.   Then maybe some of my lathes.  Please note that I am not claiming any expertise.  Just interested amateur stuff.  Might be a change from Antarctica hey?

 

Somebody is responding to my Antarctica Posts

Look at the blocking graphics today, over the area of my interest in Antarctica.  The blocking pattern has changed, but it still extends 1985 through all years to 2016.  The sea ice changes every year, but the blocking pattern, and the clouds, stay unchanged.

Some of the odd shapes in 2006 are visible again.

And the big black rectangle is visible again.

This is not cloud, not natural features.  It is deliberate blocking.  The co-ordinates are at the bottom of the screenshot if you want to check it for yourself.  Use the timeline in Google Earth Pro to check out 2006.

Why has the area of blocking changed?  No idea.  Maybe whoever is responsible is embarrassed to have been called out.

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P.S.   appointment with the boiler inspector next Monday.

Antarctica Again, Again

Some of you might remember my posts about Antarctica from December 2018.  I believed, and still believe, that something has been going on down there that is being kept from us by “someone”.

Do you remember the odd 300mx200m rectangular shapes of which I took screen shots and posted?  And how most of those areas were later blanked out on Google Earth Pro?

Well today I looked at the area again on Google Earth Pro, and the entire region has now been thoroughly blanked out, including ALL of the previously visible rectangular shapes.

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The grey splodge in the middle of the above picture could be mistaken for cloud, but it is not cloud.  Look how it includes ALL of my markers which I placed on the rectangular shapes.   And it is present on every year from 1985 to 2015.   It is deliberately obscuring the area of interest.

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That is NOT cloud, or any other natural feature.  It has suddenly appeared.  So please excuse my paranoia, but I believe that the purpose of the blanking is to hide the objects which I showed in my posts about Antarctica last year.

The area includes the HUGE BLACK RECTANGLE which is no longer visible.

Just to refresh your memory, and hopefully to piss off those who are trying to conceal these images, I am reposting them today.

Firstly the huge black rectangle.  21kmx7km

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Then a few of the scores or even hundreds of 300mx200m, and 300m x150m shapes which I had taken screen shots of, from approx 5km

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A colour enhanced view of one of the “objects”.

I do not know what these objects are, but they are NOT natural features, they are visible only 2005, 2006, 2007, and someone does not want people using Google Earth Pro to be able to see them.

I have 25-30 screen shots of different but similar objects.

To be sure, you would prefer to be looking at photos of my engines, but this “other stuff” category is compelling.

Next Project

The Trevithick dredger engine model is almost finished.  Currently applying some paint.  And getting it ready for the final boiler inspection.  I am guessing about 2 weeks.

I have chosen a spot in the house where it will sit, and will post a photo in due course.

A few people have been asking if I have decided what to make next.  In terms of a major build, the answer is no, I have not decided.  I have considered a few possibilities.  Those possibilities include a model of Stephenson’s “Rocket”, Trevithick’s “Catch Me Who Can” or “Pen-y-darren engine”, a Shand-Mason fire engine, or even another cannon.

What I will do, is to complete several unfinished projects, and if a major project becomes obvious, imperative, then anything is possible.

The unfinished projects include…

  1.  An Arduino controlled rotary table.  The mechanicals are made.  Just need to dive into the electronics.
  2. The Southworth steam powered boiler feed pump for the vertical boiler.
  3. The CNC controlled tool post milling attachment for the Boxford CNC lathe.
  4. Paint the Bolton beam engine.  Lag the cylinder.  Install a cylinder oiler.
  5. Finish the triple expansion model marine engine.  The lagging, the piston rings, the gaskets, the oiler and oil pipework, and painting.

Looking at that list, I really do not need to start another major project.

And sometimes it is nice to sit back, and enjoy the glow and satisfaction of previous projects.  It does sound rather self satisfied, no?  So here is a selection of videos, mostly first runs of newly completed projects.  Most are YouTube links, but one or two will run directly.

This was the first model steam engine which I made about 5-6 years ago.  It is a Bolton 7 single cylinder mill engine, and this was the first occasion I had run it on steam.  It was a very exciting moment, seeing it actually running on steam.

Next came the Bolton 12 Beam Engine.  Still a crowd favourite.  The beard was ordered off by SWMBO not long after this.

Then a couple of Stirling engines.  How they work is still a mystery to me.

 

Then the problematic, difficult triple expansion engine, which took 3 years and several extended breaks to get to the working stage.  Still not finished completely.  Stuart Tankard’s boiler.  Since then I made a vertical boiler.

And somewhere in there I made this little reversing engine for the club competition.  Alas, it failed in action.

And 3 cannons came out of left field.  They started as a CNC project, but then took on a consuming interest of their own.  About this time I saw the necessity of learning how to put together a video.  Still learning.

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The 6″ vertical boiler.

And finally the Trevithick dredger engine.  The historical aspects of this engine, the genius of Trevithick, the fact that the engine works…. has been marvellous.  The engine is looking quite different with some paint applied.  And the propane burner is significantly better than appears in this video.

So, if you are still with me after all of those videos, congratulations on your stamina.  It is  therapeutic to take stock sometimes, and to wonder about where making all of these engines is going.  It was not to any plan.  Still no plan.  Just enjoying the moments, the days.

Painting the Dredger Engine

OMG!

You are not painting?

You know that…

1. You always get runs

2.  You always get hairs in the paint

3.  You have NO artistic sense of colours

All of the above is true.

So I have relied heavily  on opinions from my readers about how to put some paint on the Trevithick dredger engine and the colours.

Firstly, yes, I got some runs, and sandpapered them out between coats.

Secondly, yes, some brush hairs ended up in the paint on the engine, but I was on the lookout for them, and removed most of them.  The few remaining were sandpapered out.

Thirdly, yes, I have no artistic sense of colour, but neither did Trevithick so I am in good company.  Most of my readers said to paint it black, so that is what I am doing.  Matt black.  (SWMBO says that matt hides a multitude of painting sins.)

But, I am leaving most of the brass unpainted, so that I can polish it up for special occasions.   I will paint the boiler.

 

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So here I am painting the chimney.  Note that I have found a good use for the 4 jaw chuck.  Apart from holding the Xmas tree steady. 

I am brushing on the paint.  I have an air brush, but there are a lot of surfaces which I do not want to get paint on, so I am brushing.

I am using matt black epoxy enamel for most surfaces, and pot belly stove black for the hot surfaces.  No primer (except on the base).  2-3 coats.

 

Housekeeping

G’day readers.

The videos which I have been adding to these posts recently have been gobbling up my WordPress storage space, and there is less than 10% of my 13Gb allocation remaining.  Before it runs out altogether  my options are:

  1. Upgrade my payment plan to a business plan.  230% more expensive.
  2. Delete the older video files.  These would no longer be visible.  The rest of the blog would be visible (text and photographs).  Shoot future videos at a lower resolution.
  3. Monetise the site.  There would be advertisements, over which I would have no control.  
  4. Ask for reader contributions.  No, that is not an option. I will not be going there.
  5. Put all future videos onto YouTube.  There would be a link from the johnsmachines.com post to YouTube for each video.

None of these options are appealing.  Wordpress does not offer an option of simply increasing storage space at a lower cost than migrating to the Business Plan.  This is not a business for me.  It is just a bit of fun.   And a portal for communicating with other model engineers.  And a diary.

For the moment, I will carry on, but will probably delete some of the previous videos, and shoot future videos at a lower resolution, to hang on as long as possible.  Option 5 would look like this…….(an old video, you have probably seen it.  Just as an example of a YouTube link.  You will need to be subscribed to YouTube to see it.  It’s free.)

I need some feedback on this.

The rather noisy popping sound is coming from Stuart Tankard’s IC “Farm Boy” engine.  The beam engine is almost silent.

 

 

 

Trevithick Blower

I am sure that my readers will have gathered by now that I am not an expert.  At least in matters of metalworking, model engineering etc.  I am, or was, an expert in my profession, some years ago.  But this blog is about how a non expert copes with  problems in model engineering.  It aims to be entertaining, occasionally helpful, and a diary of my workshop doings.

When Trevithick designed his revolutionary engine, (“revolutionary” in all senses), he arranged for the exhausted steam to be funnelled into the chimney, after pre-heating the boiler feed water.

It was a matter of convenience apparently.   Rather than ejecting the spent steam directly  into the air, it would go up the chimney, away from the operator.

But almost immediately it was noticed that the fire in the firebox was more vigorous, hotter, more efficient  Thus was born, the steam engine blower.

So I made the junction between the exhaust and the chimney as per the plans, at an angle of 90 degrees.

But, I noted that on the exhaust stroke, the fire in the firebox spluttered, and occasionally went out altogether.

In more modern steam engines, the exhausted steam is inserted into the chimney, but parallel with the chimney, not at a right angle.

So, I thought, do I stay with the Trevithick design, or the more logical more modern design.  I was having problems with my fire, so the decision was easy.  I would pretend that Trevithick would adopted this design.  Maybe he did.

But that meant breaking the silver soldered join, inserting a new angled copper tube, and rejoining it all.

 

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As Trevithick designed it on the left and on the right as I remade it today

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Right is the exhaust piece between the preheater and the chimney.   Left is the new blower tube, which must be joined end to end, and then poked up the chimney.

This was going to be tricky.  And end to end join of 2 pieces of 9.5mm copper tube, and the join being right where the tube enters the chimney.  But then I remembered a tool which had sat unused for several years…

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OK,  This is probably very old hat to most of you.  But it was exciting to me.  First I had to assemble the tool.   Sorry I missed the camera.

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I decided to solder the pipe join first.  Rested the end with the flange on a lump of scrap brass, to act as a heat sink, and protect the flange join.

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That worked well.

Then I soldered the assembly into the chimney, after bolting all of the parts into their positions.  Sorry.    Forgot to take a photo.    But it all worked well.   I like the tube expander, but it needs some extra fittings so it works on smaller tubes.

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine. Almost There.

Firstly some pictures.

 

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So, I have reassembled the engine and the burner and the base.

Did you notice the base?

No?   Excellent.  That is the idea.  A nondescript matt black base which is barely noticed.

Yes?  OK,  well it must be OK.

Then a trial of the burner inside the firebox, using the changes which have evolved over the past few days.

During the video I am constantly changing the propane flow, and there is a clear “sweet spot” point where it looks really good, and feels very hot.  I have not yet tried to steam with it.

Oh Shit!

PART 1

I was drilling a hole in the end of the Trevithick burner today.  The burner was securely held in the vice, but the heat annealed brass was not as strong as the torque in the 6mm drill bit.

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After the initial self hatred at misjudging the situation, I thought …oh well, I will have to make another one.    Then I thought, …I wonder if I can repair it…..

I still have the wooden forms which I used to make the burner originally, so, roughly twisted the part back into shape.  It was pretty malleable still.  Then forced it into the wooden form.  And beat it into shape with the copper hammer.   This was looking promising.

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Then forced in the other part of the form, and applied the 20 ton hydraulic press.

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The curved shape was pretty good, but there was still some twist.

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I still had to drill an 11.5mm hole, so this time I used the form, successfully.   Then removed the twist by hand after knocking out the form.

Tapped a 1/2″ x 26tpi thread, and assembled the burner.

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All beautiful again.  And now the burner tube is properly secured.   The bulge under my thumb was pushed straight.

 

PART 2

My reader/advisor Huib, suggested filling the tube with stainless steel scouring wool, in order to improve the flame.

I asked SWMBO, and was directed to the appropriate supplier.. the local supermarket.

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Bought 3 types of stainless steel scouring pads.  The finest grade was available only impregnated with soap.  I am not sure how soap burns, probably pretty well, but I do not need that added complication.  Fortunately it mostly came out when tapped.   All very inexpensive.

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Then I experimented with all 3 grades, various degrees of packing it in, and using various lengths.  I even tried mixing the different types of steel wool.  It cuts easily.  Eventually I decided the best way was to have a loose wad of the fine mesh in the first 1-2 cm of tube, then a very light piece of the fine mesh in the distal 10cm.

It has improved the flame;   there is no back lighting of the jet itself, and there is a more even flame along the length of the tube.   I think that I will be able to improve the flame further, but will wait until I can test it inside the boiler itself.  In the video the roaring of the flame drowns out my voice somewhat.  You will not miss much.    I am varying the gas control.

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So, sorry about the voice track.  The stainless steel stuff is interesting.  It is like swarf, but not sharp.  I wonder how they make it.  I imagine that it works in the gas-air tube by creating swirls and eddies, and better mixing the gas and air, without impeding the flow much.

Back in the workshop tomorrow.  A few connectors to make, check the feed pump, then make an appointment with The Boiler Inspector.

By the way.  The parcel opening post was apparently not very interesting, so I wont bother with that format again.  I am aware that my video technique was pretty ordinary, but I am not inspired to try that one again.  Pity.  I enjoyed making that one.

 

 

Beware of Greeks Bearing Gifts

Well, this one is OK because it came from a Hollander.

One of my blog readers, Huib, decided that I would be the recipient of some of his workshop items which he says were surplus.  This was as a thank you for johnsmachines.com.

So, a parcel arrived yesterday, and after a quick look inside, I decided to make a video of opening the items, and showing you.   It was great fun for me, and I hope that it will be entertaining for you.  It is the biggest file which I have uploaded, so give it a few minutes to open.

Oh, any other readers who would like to send me surplus tools or other interesting bits and pieces….  please feel free.  If Haas, or Hardinge would like a review on one of their machines please send it and I would be happy to do a review.

Experiments With Propane and Paint

The gas burner on the modelTrevithick dredger engine has been more problematic than anticipated.  In the absence of published information about gas jet sizes, air hole sizes and numbers, the effect of a ceramic cover, and firebox size and shape, I have resorted to trial and error.  Having read many of the comments on the subject in Model Engineering web sites, I can see that most other builders adopt the same approach.

I have lost count of the number of changes which I have tried.  These are the ones which I can remember.

  1. Burner surround made from brass, as per the blog on Feb 5,6 8.   Ceramic top.  Burner difficult to light, and only the end distal from the jet would light.
  2. Fitted a tube with about 40 2mm holes beneath the ceramic plate, to better distribute the gas-air mixture.  The entire ceramic plate lit up, but the heat output was poor, and the the time to boiler steaming was very slow at 25″.  Also the flame contained lots of yellow, indicating inadequate air.
  3. Drilled holes in the end of the burner surround, to increase the air flow.  Some improvement.
  4. Tried 3-4 different gas jets.  Problems with obtaining jets.  Lack of published info.  Different threads and jet body sizes.  Used the CNC lathe to recut some threads to fit the Primus jet enclosure.  (0.5mm pitch, 4.5mm diameter).  This was all trial and error.  Air is admitted through the 4 holes next to the jet, using a venturi effect, which relies on the velocity of the propane coming out of the jet.  Important factors are the diameter of the air holes, the number of the air holes, the velocity of the propane, and probably the diameter of the propane cone of gas.
  5. In order to further increase the supply of air, I drilled the air holes progressively from 4mm to 6.5mm.   6.5mm was the limit due to available metal.  In the video which follows, you will see the effect of reducing and increasing the number of air holes.
  6. Drilled an extra 20 holes in the distributor tube, but the flames from the initial 2mm holes were too big.  Then made another distributor tube, with 60 holes, about 1.5mm diameter.  Better size flames.  See the video.
  7. Each variation has been tried with and without the ceramic plate.  I have decided to not use the ceramic.  It seems to restrict the flow of gas-air mixture, and causes flames to shoot out backwards through the burner surround air holes, sometimes setting the jet alight.

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Concurrently while experimenting with the burner, I have been applying some paint.  SWMBO insists that I am a hopeless painter, but I think that it is going on OK.

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Trevithick Engine. Tweaking the gas burner. Winning?

Looking at yesterday’s photo, the yellow flame indicates inadequate air for the amount of gas going in.  The air holes at the gas jet level were already at maximum size, so I drilled some holes in the burner base itself.

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Yesterday’s photo.  Feeble flame.  Not enough air.   So I drilled holes in the burner end, next to the gas inlet.  (thanks for the suggestion Huib!).  Unfortunately, the improvement was minimal.  And gas flames shot out backwards towards the operator and gas jet.  A bit disconcerting.  And, I wondered, could the ceramic burner itself be restricting the flow?

So the next step was to remove the ceramic burner, and make changes to the spreader tube beneath.

The ceramic burner broke in pieces during the removal.  Possibly still useable.

But I thought, maybe I will see what the flame is like without the ceramic burner altogether.

And this is what the flame looked like…

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Now, that is more like it!  (you can see the holes which I drilled in the end of the burner to increase air intake)

Admittedly, the flame will change when the burner is back inside the boiler, but this is the most encouraging flame yet.  Minimal yellow.  The gas flow will need to be reduced.

Next session, I intend to experiment with the hole sizes and number and angles.  I do not expect to be using the ceramic insert in the final version.

Model Trevithick Dredger Engine on Steam. Fail. Well, maybe a bare pass.

Well, I was really not expecting this.

After all, the engine was running well on compressed air at 30psi, and the burner appeared to have a good flame.

And Stuart was coming to be involved with the big event.  So nothing could go wrong!

I set up the iphone on a tripod.  Checked the light.  Oiled the bearings and slides.  Filled the boiler.  It takes 2 litres of water.  And hooked up the propane.  when Stuart arrived I lit up the burner, and sat back to see how long it would take to raise steam.

Some steam leaks were expected, on this first steam run.  Leaks don’t show on compressed air, unless they are severe.  As the water heated up, some leaks appeared.  The water feed clack valve and the sight glass were bad.  The clack valve just needed some goo.  Later I disassembled the sight glass, and cleaned the valve, with some improvement, but more work needed.  Or a new sight glass valve.  A couple of other trivial leaks were easily fixed.

So we watched the clock, and checked the temperatures.  Ot took 20 minutes to start raising steam.  That is a bit slow.  Eventually it reached 20psi, but the pressure refused to go any higher, despite fiddling with the gas and air controls.

At 20psi, I opened the throttle and gave the flywheel a swing.  You can see the result.

After that, we let it cool down and fixed the clack valve leak.  The sight glass valve leak was looked at later, but could not be fixed simply.

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The burner flame.  A bit feeble.  A bit yellow.  And occasionally blown out by the cylinder exhaust gas puffing into the chimney.  Stuart says that I need to angle the cylinder exhaust gas upwards in the chimney.  Apparently Trevithick did not do that on the full size models, but perhaps he should have.

The burner was definitely not up to the job, so in this last video, it got some assistance.

It does go!   Just needs a few tweaks.  Lovely sound.

Workshop Tidy

I bet that a few of you grimaced at my before and after bench tidy photos yesterday.  I was expecting some howls of outrage, but surprisingly none.  I must have very polite readers.

But in anticipation, I spent 3 hours today, tidying up the workshop….   keeping an eye out for tiger snakes….  but to my great relief no snakes made themselves visible.   Maybe my swarf laden floor is having an effect!

After 3 hours, I stepped back and looked at the result.  I was pretty buggered.  And you know what?  The workshop looked virtually the same.   I could actually see some of my workbench.   And all of the end-mills, drill bits, parallels, and fasteners were in their appropriate receptacles.   But it still looked messy!

So I went and had a cup of coffee, and some biscuits and cheese, and came back and looked again.   It still looked really messy.  I needed some therapy, not more tidying.

So I pulled out my next project, and made a start.  I am making a CNC controlled tool post spindle for the CNC lathe.  I used the CNC mill to machine and mount the spindle in the tool post.  Photos soon.  I felt much better.

I did have to ring my advisor and friend Stuart, for some advice, and he asked after the Trevithick.  I am planning to fire up the boiler, and run it on steam on Sunday.  Stuart indicated an enthusiasm to be present, an offer which I gratefully accepted.    Tomorrow is committed to a book launch by my cousin Karen Viggers, who has written 3 or 4 books.  She wrote “The Lightkeepers Wife”, and “The Stranding” (my favourite).  I am looking forward to reading her latest book.

So Sunday night, all being well, you will see a video of the Dredger Engine running on steam.

Drilling is not boring

Firstly the base.  I wanted to drill all of the wooden pieces together, to make sure that they aligned, even if the lengths weren’t absolutely accurate.  Wood is like that.

So, using the bottom piece as a pattern, and squaring each piece as it was placed, I glued them together using PVA glue.

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And squaring each piece as it was placed.

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Those angle blocks made handy glueing weights.  The short bits are intentional.  That allows the flywheel crank room to rotate.

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My workbench.  I needed some room, so I tidied it.

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That is better!

Now some short videos of the drilling.  Sorry the videos are so short.  If my Internet connect was better I would have stitched them into one video, but alas…

I was intending to show making a 5mm drill bit longer, by silver soldering a piece of 5mm drill rod to the bit, end to end.  I have done this before, quite successfully.  Silver solder is very strong.   Almost as strong as the parent metal.  But in this case it was unnecessary, as the videos will show.

 

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With the base complete and bolted to the engine, I made the last pipe connection joining the feed pump to the pre-heater.

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Ready for the first run on steam next session!

A Long Drill Bit

I have not been looking forward to attaching the Trevithick Dredger Engine to its base.

I needed to drill through the steel plinth and the wooden plinth, and then through the top part of the base.  Trouble was that the boiler and engine were in the way.

And it was not feasible to tip the whole assembly upside down and drill from underneath.

Ahah! what about a long drill?   I measured it.  The drill would need to be 450mm long!  Even a long drill bit, ferociously expensive, comes at a maximum length of 150mm.

So, I made a long drill bit, 5mm diameter, 600mm long

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That is a new 5mm cobalt drill bit, silver soldered into some 8mm drill rod.  Could have been a bit shorter, but it was long enough.

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Using the long drill bit, I was able to drill through the steel support, and through the top wooden layer of the base.   Then bolted the parts together.   And was then able to place the engine and the wooden layer on their ends, and to drill the remaining holes from below, confident (fairly confident anyway), that nothing could go wrong.   As in the above picture.

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Meanwhile, I had added the valve which controls the boiler feed pump output, and connected it to the boiler feed pump.

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Boiler feed pump valve.  This valve was left over from the vertical boiler project.  Just right, when I have repainted it.

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Next I must drill a 5mm hole through all layers of the base.   150mm!  4 holes, one in each corner.   The long drill made today will not do because the 8mm shank is too thick.   I must make another long drill, with a 5mm diameter shank.  Watch this space!

 

 

Moon

I know that this blog is titled “johnsmachines”, but I do get interested in “other stuff” too.

I came across this video on YouTube yesterday.  It runs for 4 hours.

The footage was shot by an amateur astronomer, through telescopes which anyone can buy.  A 9.5″ Celestron  reflector (Schmitt Cassegrain I think),  and an 80mm Orion refractor.

I used to be an amateur astronomer, and still retain an interest.  One of my worst decisions ever was to give away an Orion 10″ reflector about 10 years ago.

Anyway, back to the video.  It shows the surface of the moon, concentrating on some interesting areas.  Following are some screen shots.  It is titled “Live Moon Surface Observation”.  Worth a look.  Suggest jumping to 28minutes and watch maybe 5 minutes, zooming in and out.

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80mm refractor.  Look at the protruberance in the top left crater.  Looks like a clenched fist.  That is really unusual.  Impact craters often have a central spike, and it is thought that the moon has had volcanic activity in previous aeons.  But there is no atmosphere to cause wind erosion, and no surface water.  Just traces of ice in the depths of craters at the poles.  So how could that shape have arisen?   And look at the bottom right crater…. that rectilinear shape.   Circular shapes are meteor impacts, in many case impacts upon impacts.  So how do you explain straight lines like these?

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The same craters through the reflector scope.  Image reversed.   Look closely at the areas surrounding the craters.  Do you see the other rectangular and square shapes?

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Close up of the fist.  Pixellation appearing.

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Earth’s moon is strange.

It is the largest moon in the solar system relative to the parent planet.

It is much less dense than earth. (why? if it is made of the same rock).  (5.51g/cm vs 3.34g/cm.  Thought to be due to Earth’s metal core.)

It almost exactly blocks the disk of the sun during a lunar eclipse.  Coincidence?

The other side of the moon always faces away from earth.  Until the space program, no human had ever seen the other side of the moon.  The other side, incidentally, is quite different from the side which we see.  Much more cratered, no large flat areas.  Presumably most meteors come from the direction away from the sun (because they are scooped up by the gravitational field of the sun).

One moon day is exactly the same length as a lunar month.  It is the only moon in the solar system where this applies.  That is why the other side of the moon always faces away from earth.  Another coincidence?  (correction.  Pluto – Charon also exhibit this behaviour, so it is not unique, just unusual.  Thought to be due to “tidal locking”- thanks Gene).

OK.  I know.  You came to this site to look at my machines, particularly the Trevithick dredger engine.   I am still fiddling with small details which are not very photogenic, but necessary before I run it on steam.  Currently hooking up the boiler feed pump.

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I was intending to pull apart the pump to show you the components.  It is more complicated than the exterior shows.  Piston, O ring, 2 stainless steel balls, one spring.  I machined that 3 way junction box from a gas fitting, adding the delivery union to the top.   Nothing tested yet.  I hope that it works!

 

 

 

Sight Glass on the Trevithick Boiler

Not real happy about this one, but it is necessary if I am to run the dredger engine in public, at club meetings etc.

The original dredger engine had 3 taps to check on the boiler water levels,  like this.

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An earlier stage of construction, using taps to reveal the boiler water level.

Unfortunately that setup is unacceptable for boiler certification, so I have installed a sight glass using the same penetrations.

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The red colour does not help.  But when I run the engine on steam, this is what will be seen.   Functional, but nothing like the original.  If I use compressed air, or steam from an outside boiler (i.e. my burner not being used), I can reinstall the taps.

The sight glass is a bit short, but it should comply with the regulations.

I have spent another half day experimenting with different spring configurations, so that the safety valve releases at 40-50psi.  Eventually I decreased the coil pitch of the spring, and the valve now releases at 45-50psi.  That will do.

Trevithick Dredger Engine. The Dredger

I have no intention of modelling the dredger, but in making decisions about the engine base have gone back to the sources to find out about the gun ships.  These are referred to as “gun brig”, “bomb-ship”, “hulk of a dismasted ship”, in letters by Trevithick and others.

The first three of these dredgers were recorded by Trevithick as being 80, 120 tons and 300 tons.

Trevithick dredger on Thames - Rees

This diagram is probably of the dredger “Blazer”, with a 6hp Trevithick engine powering the bucket chain and winch. The cylinder diameter was 14.5″ and the stroke was 4′.  Trevithick recorded that his dredger would lift 100 tons of mud per hour.  Rock and gravel 180 tons per 6-8 hour tide.  It must have been impressive enough for him to obtain a contract to lift 500,000 tons per year from the bottom of the Thames at 6 pence per ton.   Other dredgers had Trevithick engines of up to 20hp. (ref. “The Life of Richard Trevithick” by Francis Trevithick 1872)

 

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Magnified view of the engine house on the dredger.  Note the relative sizes of the flywheel and the bucket chain driving gear.

 

And this is the diagram of a cross section of a bomb-vessel from a century before Trevithick.  It is mounting a 13″ bore mortar.  Note the massive supporting beams.  You can see why Trevithick chose this type of vessel to mount his steam engine and dredging machinery.  IMG_7452 2.JPG

A Tour of the Model Dredger Engine

Now that I have a tripod for my video camera (an iPhone), I have become a bit more enthusiastic about making videos.  Terrible standard of video compared with Joe Pieszczynski, and This Old Tony, and Stefan Gotteswinter, but maybe better than just text and photos.  I will be interested in your responses.

The Dredger Engine is still not quite fully made, but while I had the video set up for the spring making exercise yesterday, I added the following.   It is totally unscripted, and unedited, so there are errors.  “pressure valve” instead of “pressure gauge” for example.  Have fun counting the errors.   The final 30 seconds is me having difficulty turning off the camera!

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Making Springs and Other Stuff

Other stuff first.

MOVING STEPS

SWMBO has always considered that having a winch on a vehicle is a bit of a wank, but I have used it many times getting out of bogs, getting other people out of bogs more often, moving machinery, pulling down/moving trees, straining fences etc etc.   SWMBO was intending to replace these concrete steps, because they were crooked with respect to the house which she is fixing up.  I said that I could straighten them.

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This is after straightening.  I jackhammered the path slab, lifted the floor slab with the 4WD high lift jack, and pulled the steps with the Landcruiser winch.  Easy as.  Took 30 minutes.  SWMBO was delighted!   

MAKING SPRINGS

And I used my new spring tool.  Brilliant!  Recorded on videos.  Again, apologies for my lousy video technique.  I had forgotten to bring the spring making instructions, so it was all trial and error.

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This was my first effort.  Aluminium wire, just to try the tool.  As you can see, there were multiple errors.   Feed rate too slow for the RPM, forgot to enter a stop command at the end, feed rate much too slow at the beginning on the left.

So I started with aluminium, making many mistakes, sometimes repeatedly, but eventually learning.  Progressed to soft iron wire, and eventually to stainless steel spring wire.

Following is a series of pics and videos.

 

 

The mandrel was 4mm diameter, and there was a bit of spring back, with the final ID of 4.4-5.0 mm.

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Initially I secured the end of the wire by catching it in the collet, but quickly replaced that method, and drilled a 1.5mm hole in the mandrel.  Again, I forgot to issue a stop command in time.   The starting coils were hand wound by manually turning the spindle and jogging the feed.  If I was making multiples of the same size spring that would be simple to program on the CNC.

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Ah!  Getting the hang of this!  That one looks good!

In the next video, a good spring is made.  The mandrel wobble is occurring because I had bent the mandrel, when the steady was not hard enough against it.  Bend straightened afterwards.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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And the safety valve with its new spring…

 

 

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But screwing in the safety valve was a bit of a struggle…

 

 

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And re-installing the safety valve lever was almost comic..

 

 

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So, that’s it for this post.

How did you like the videos?  I suppose that I should have stitched them together into one long video.  Maybe I will do that later for YouTube.   And to edit out all of the errors.

Later today I will post another video, this time a longer one, a tour of the Trevithick engine.

Well, what a nice day!

Wednesday is always a good day.  That is when our model engineering group has its weekly meetings.  Mostly a 2-3 hour informal gathering around a large table, chatting about current projects, new tools, the weather, rarely politics or religion.  Coffee.   And once each month a more formal evening meeting, involving discussion of club business, “models on the table” and usually a guest speaker.   Today was the informal 2-3 hour chat variety.

I used the opportunity to ask about methods of making a rectangularish water tank for the Trevithick dredger engine, riveting, folding brass, caulking with solder, etc etc.    And Stuart T, knowing that I had to make a stainless steel compression spring for the safety valve of the Trevithick, brought in his tools for making springs.

This is one of the tools.  It was designed by Dwight Giles, and made by Stuart.

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Published in Model Engine Builder 2007.

The tool is mounted in the lathe tool post.  The V supports the chuck mounted mandrel, and the brass washers apply drag to the spring wire.  The lathe threading gears supply the pitch to the spring.  Looks excellent, and I was hoping that Stuart was intending to lend it to me.  Otherwise I would make one of these tools.   But why were there two of the tools?   “Oh, one is for you!  I was making one for myself, and it was just as easy to make two.”

Not the first time have I been the recipient of Stuart’s generosity.  When I make the spring (soon) I will take some pics, and post them here.

Later in the meeting, Swen Pettig, recently returned from a fabulous trip to Scandinavia and UK, called for shoosh, and stood up to make a presentation.  Some people knew what was coming.  I didn’t.  But in “recognition for writing about his model making” (now my ears pricked up), Swen had picked up an item in the UK which he thought I might find interesting.  Knowing of my current interest, some might say obsession, with Richard Trevithick, he had looked for and found the following item.

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A Two pound coin.  I did not get the significance, until I looked more closely.  Holy Shit!  That is a Trevithick engine on the coin.  The Pen-y-Darren railway engine if I am not mistaken.  Made in 1804.  And using many recognisable features which are in my slightly later dredger engine.  The coin was minted in 2004, 200 years later.  Wow!!

I did not even know about the coin until today.  But I am honoured and very grateful for this lovely gift and thought, Swen.

One wag suggested that I should make another gas knob for the engine, and mount the coin in the knob. (thankyou for the suggestion, President Brendan.  I will do no such thing).  It will be a  valued possession.

Incidentally, the reverse of the coin has an image of the Head of State of Australia.

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Gas control on an historic model?

Well, no likes and no comments on this morning’s post… no picture the problem????   hmmm???

So, this afternoon, the weather was windy and wet, and unsuitable for winching concrete steps, so I retreated to the workshop.  Much to SWMBO’s disapproval.

And did a bit more with the gas supply and control.

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And that is what it looked like.

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OK, except that Primus knob does not appeal.  And the wooden base is looking decidedly wonky.  More about the base later.  I have some improvements in mind.

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This wheel was a reject from my triple expansion steam engine model.  I wondered if it would look OK on the Trevithick.  It certainly looks better than the Primus knob Yes/No?

Possibly not historically accurate, but maybe yes for 1850-60?

 

Historic Model Compromised?

I was attempting to model the Trevithick Dredger Engine as true as possible to the original.  But, I also wanted it to run, so the flywheel would spin and the crosshead move up and down and the unusual valve control lever flick up and down.

There are several problems with this approach.

  1. The 1 in 8 scale.  This is the biggest problem with making a model.  Since the scale applies only to linear dimensions (e.g. the boiler is 6″ diameter compared to 48″ for the original), surface areas are at a scale of 1 in 8×8 (1:64) and volumes and weights are at a scale of 1 in 8x8x8 (1:512).  So my little model weighs a few kilograms (not actually weighed it yet) compared to 4 -6 tons for the original.   It does mean that there is a safety advantage in scaling down, in terms of boiler explosion risk, despite the fact that the model will be run at roughly the same boiler pressure as the original (50 psi).
  2. Some components do not scale well.  For example, the square nuts.  To my eye, they look too big.  If I was to make another of this model, I would make the fasteners smaller.
  3. The requirement of the model actually running.  The original was fired with coal, or in some situations wood, and even dried animal dung (in Peru, look it up.  There was no coal and no trees in the silver mines area).  I have made my model so that it could run on coal, but to be honest, that is unlikely to happen.  So I have made a gas burner.  And that involves gas pipes and regulator valve, which are impossible to conceal, and detract, IMO, from the appearance.
  4. Boiler regulations.  I want to run the model at club exhibitions, which means that the boiler must be certified.  The boiler certification regulations make no special allowance for historic models, so several compromises have been made.  For example a pressure gauge has been installed, and the water level taps must be replaced by a glass sight tube.  Not a biggie I guess, but it all adds up.  I will keep a separate set of parts which can be used when it is displayed as a static model, which will be most of the time.
  5.  Is this a model dredger engine or a model factory or mine engine?  I still have not decided.  Hence the rather ambiguous base.  I do not intend to build a dredger or section of a dredger, or a factory or mine or parts thereof.  But I have to admit that the base which is appearing in the photos so far does not look “right”.  Still pondering that one.
  6. And finally the colours.  Although Trevithick was a brilliant engineer, he was no artist.  I doubt that beauty, or attractiveness of line, ever entered his thoughts when he was designing.  If his engines were painted, the colour was probably utilitarian black.  Not that we know.  I can find no reference to colour in any of the works about Trevithick and his engines.  And there is not a skerrick  of original paint on the original engine in the London Science Museum, as far as I know.  Later engines, in the Victorian era, were painted in gorgeous colours, and I am tempted to paint my model as if it were a Trevithick engine which was being used in the Victorian era.  That is not so silly.  It is known that Watt engines, and even Newcomen engines were still being made in the 19th century, and Francis Trevithick records that many of his father’s engines were in use in the mid 19th century.  That little subterfuge could also explain why my model has a pressure gauge and sight glass!

I had a full day in the workshop yesterday, so I had better front up and straighten those steps for SWMBO.   Actually, it will an interesting job.  I will use a 4WD high lift jack(s) under the house to free the steps, then use the Landcruiser winch with a snatch block to pull the concrete steps into position.  Might be worth a photo.  How the steps ended up out of position is a mystery.

 

 

Fitting the Boiler Feed Pump to the Trevithick Dredger Engine.

The feed pump is attached to the base, and since I had not decided on the final form of the base I had to leave the pump sitting all alone on my messy bench.

But I have now decided to proceed with a wooden base, made of 32x32mm hardwood beams, and a solid wooden top to which the engine and the feed pump are attached.

So today I attached the feed pump.  The engine itself is still just sitting, not attached.  And the bits of the base are still a loose pile of beams of wood, not bolted glued or screwed together.

One minor problem was that there were incomplete dimensions on the plans for the feed pump and its supporting column.   Fair enough.  I assumed that the dimensions would be measured on the job.

First I had to make the steel beam which attaches to the cross head, and the column at the other end, and the pump… 3 attachment points.  I had cut out the beam last week, but it needed a couple of bends.   It was 4mm thick steel, so I did the bending in the workshop press.

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Bending the feed pump beam.

Of course one of the bends was too angular, so a bit of cold blacksmithing to flatten it.

And fitted everything to the engine sitting on the base.

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The holes which were drilled in the top of the base were a bit of a guess, because the distance between them was not on the plans.  I drilled them 28mm apart, but it was clear after assembly that they were too close together.

Then the penny dropped.  The holes in the base should be the same as the corresponding holes in the steel beam… 32mm.  so I filled one of the holes with epoxy filler, redrilled it, re-tapped it and reassembled everything.

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The re-drilled hole and filler are hidden beneath the feed pump.  The space in front of the boiler face is now occupied by gas piping and a gas control knob.  Not quite finished so no pics yet.  Notice the boiler pressure gauge on top of the boiler.  Not as per R Trevithick, because the Bourdon tube type pressure gauge was not invented until 1849, but it is required for boiler certification.   Maybe I will label this as a model of a Trevithick engine which was updated in 1850.

Next to make the pipe between the feed pump and the boiler feed pre-heater, and a bypass tube with valve.   I have not decided on the size or form of the water supply tank. A riveted squarish tank, or even a riveted cylinder would be nice.   Probably make do with a plastic bottle for the time being.

I also need to fasten together those base beams.  Have still not decided how to do that.

There are 4 types of wood in the base.  I might have mentioned one or two of them.  One is the top, one is the beam under the front of the boiler, the base beams is another, and there is a sizeable block underneath everything.  I doubt that anyone will be able to identify all of the wood types.  2 are Australian, one is European, and one is Asian (I cut up a breadboard for that one).

And thinking about a colour scheme.  Flat black is the favoured colour in most other models, but I want to include some Georgian reds blues greens or yellows.  And leave a bit of brass and copper for polishing.

Oh, and I made a ring for the top of the chimney.  Seen in the second pic.

A Day In The Workshop.

One of those days.

Warm night.   Restless sleep.  Woke at 4:30am.  Got up.  Dressed.  checked the emails, blog, Facebook.  Dozed until 8am.

Went to workshop. (15km drive).   SWMBO a bit peeved because she assumed that I would install some laundry cupboards and straighten some outside steps at the property which she is preparing for sale.  Baby sitting yesterday was fun, but I was thinking about the burner on the Trevithick.   So I told SWMBO that I would do an hour or two at her job at the end of the day.

So I went to my workshop, and started mounting the permanent pressure gauge on the Trevithick dredger engine.   It was fiddly, not totally satisfactory.  I dropped things.  I burnt my fingers several times.  I could not remember where I had put things 5 minutes earlier.  The workshop is really in a mess and I should have just tidied it up.  But I didn’t.  I had not had breakfast because the bread was mouldy and my normal cereal was empty so I skipped breakfast.  Except for coffee of course.  I cannot skip that.

Eventually the pressure gauge was mounted.  I thought about running the engine on steam and making a video for the blog, but I was just not in the right mood.

I packed up, and went to where SWMBO wanted me, and installed some cupboards.  Oddly satisfying.  Only took an hour or so.  SWMBO was happy.  I made some lame excuse why I could not straighten the steps, and went home and had a few reds.

Shit day in the workshop.  But sure beats working.

Trevithick Dredger Engine Burner

Reader Huib suggested that I would need to modify the gas burner for my model steam engine even before I had tried it.

He was absolutely correct.  The burner was difficult to light and keep going, unless I blocked off at least half of it. (see previous post).

So, today, I modified the burner along the lines suggested by Huib.

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I added this stainless steel tube with drilled holes to the bottom of the burner, underneath the fire clay burner.  It is wedged into position.

And this was the result.  The burner li up easily when gas was admitted.

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From above you can see that the fireclay burner is red hot over most of its surface.  And hottest at the end which is deep inside the boiler.

I measured the temperature of the burner, and it was 790ºc.  I think that it will do nicely. After that, I sealed the fire clay burner into the brass container with a high temperature boiler sealant.

Yesterday I received in the mail a tiny pressure gauge.  3/4″ diameter, 0-80psi.  from EJ Winter, Sydney.  Order was placed Wed, arrived Thurs.  Great service.  Thanks Ben deGabriel.

Trevithick would not have had a pressure gauge in 1803, but modern boiler regs insist on one, so I have bowed to the inevitable, and will install this gauge on top of the boiler.  Photos to follow.   I expect to be running the engine on steam next time I am in the workshop.   WooHoo!   Not tomorrow though.  Baby sitting.

 

Trevithick Gas Burner Problems

Today I connected the gas burner to a propane bottle, and it would not light.

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The jet, tubing, control knob, and connectors were removed from an old gas camping stove.  The camping stove burner is in the picture above.

The only way that I could get the engine burner to light up was to block off about half of the outlets in the ceramic burner.

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With half of the burner blocked, the other half produced a nice hot flame, but whenever I increased the open area the flamed spluttered, and died.

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The more area exposed, the worse the flame.

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..And eventually it died.  Adjusting the gas settings made no difference.  Blocking the other end of the ceramic burner resulted in being unable to light it at all.

It appears that that the gas air mixture is being blown to the distal end of the burner, where it will burn.  But if too many holes in the burner are exposed, it just will not function.

So, I came home to ask for advice from my readers, and lo and behold, before I even opened up the blog I checked my emails, and there was a message from reader Huib who predicted the problems after looking at yesterday’s post, and told me how to overcome it.

Huibs letter,

Hi John,

I have read your blog about the gasburner, I  suggest that you  make a brass pipe with small holes in it to spread the gas all under the ceramic stone, otherwise I think the stone will only fire up at the beginning of the stone.

Or as I did, fill the space unther the stone with stainless steel wool, this material will also ensure a spread of the gas under the stone, but not as much as a brass pipe with holes.

I have the stone sealed in the holder with stove kit, this kit is heat resistant.   I think that is available in your area.

 

Regards Huib

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There are some aspects of this blogging business that I really like!!  I will let you know how the suggestion works in a couple of days.   Thanks Huib!!!

 

A Gas Burner for the Trevithick Dredger Engine

Last post I asked if anyone could guess what the redgum pieces were going to be used for.

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Today I turned up another piece of the puzzle, which might be helpful..

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And look where it fits..with a 1mm gap.

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Just to bend a piece of annealed brass in the press.   Hmm.. I wonder where this will fit..

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Ah… now I see…

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Silver soldered.  Ceramic burner needs to be cut.  Diamond saw?  Maybe I will try the bandsaw..

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Well, that is surprising.  I expected that the ceramic material would laugh at the bandsaw blade.  But no problem at all.  Like a hot knife through butter.

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After sawing the burner roughly to size, the edges were given the curved contour with a belt sander.  Again, easy as.  It is sitting in position, but needs the edges sealed with some heat resistant goo.   Any suggestions?

The gas burner will be easy to remove if I ever run the Trevithick engine on coal.  I am still fiddling with gas jets, hoses and connections.

Trevithick Dredger Engine – Base -4

Reader Jenny asked about original mounting methods for the dredger engine.

This picture appeared in the Rees Cyclopedia of 1819, and as far as I know, is the only picture exisiting of the engine in its use as a dredger engine.

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Gun boats had no method of propulsion, so they were towed into position.  They were very strongly constructed to withstand the enormous forces of firing cannons, mortars and siege guns.  Often they carried only one very large blackpowder gun.  Trevithick chose one of these vessels to mount his steam engine to dredge the Thames.  Somewhere I have seen a drawing of the construction of one of these vessels, showing the massive oak beams and thick deck.  At this time I cannot relocate the drawing, but when I find it I will post it.

Many more of Trevithick’s “strong steam” engines were used to pump out mines, and operate factories and mills.  We can assume that those engines would have been mounted on a base of bricks, stone blocks, or large wooden beams.  The engines weighed about 4 tonnes, so it is possible that they just sat on the strongly constructed factory floor, with a slot for the flywheel and driving gear.

And in writing this I have come across another drawing from the Trevithick era of one of his engines mounted for use in a factory.  This layout drawing was by John Rastrick, an engineer at Hazeldines, who made the engine which is in the London Science Museum.  It shows a 4 hp Trevithick puffer engine, driving 2 “scouring barrels” and “a set of polishing lathes”.

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This is very interesting to me.  First, the engine mounts are likely to be masonry, possibly topped with wooden beams.  The flywheel is mounted not on the crankshaft, but on a separate, extra shaft.  The connecting rods are straight, and rather too thin to be wood;  more likely steel or cast iron.  The safety valve weight is suspended on a long shaft, well away from the front of the boiler.  The front boiler support has angled ends, not squared. The crosshead has tapered edges, not parallel.  And the firebox door is approximately as I had guessed it, although rather smaller proportionately than the firebox than I have made it.

I am sure that this is not intended to be an accurate representation of the details of the Trevithick engine, but I suspect the engineer who drew it would have got the proportions approximately correct.

Wonderful!

Now I have to decide whether I have made a model dredger engine, or a model factory engine.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine Base.- 3

Just a quickie.

One of our GSMEE members, Stuart Tankard, solved the base issue on his most recent engine build like this….

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Those bricks are CNC’d out of aluminium bar.

Reader Huib suggested that if I follow suit, I should program in some imperfections!

Maybe I will ask Stuart to make my base.  (relax Stuart.  I wouldn’t do it to you.)

Trevithick Dredger Engine Base -2

It is odd how the most trivial part of the model dredger engine, the base, seems to have occupied more consideration than any other parts of the entire boiler and engine.

Thankyou to those readers who have offered opinions about the base options.  The most common design preferred, including SWMBO,  was the brick base.  I am still thinking about that one.  Meanwhile, here is a photo of the engine sitting on the blocks of wood which I had cut yesterday.   Not joined yet.

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SWMBO opined that it looks a bit “bitsy” and clunky – (I always get an honest opinion from that one). To me it looks sturdy and believable and functional.  And it would be darker when finished.

Another really hot day here, so just an hour or so was enough in the workshop.  And this is what I made.    Can you guess what it is for?  It is made of redgum, a very hard dense Australian eucalypt.

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Held as firmly as possible in the 4 jaw, Center drilled, then 16 mm through drilled.  The check does not matter. 

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Then 30mm

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Then 49mm

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Then  bored to 60mm and split.   135mm long.

It will be used in the next workshop session.

Trevithick Dredger Engine Base

This may well not be the final version of the base for the model dredger engine, but of the alternatives it is the simplest to build, so I will put it together and see how it looks.  Most readers who responded to my query for opinions about alternatives opted for the model bricks base, and that remains a possibility.

But the wooden block base is attractive because it is simple, has a reminiscence of the gun boat origin of the dredger, and would be easy for me, a previous woodworker, to build.

This is how it would look..

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The top is European oak, chunky, simple.  Has some appeal.  Would look more appealing when fastened and polished.   The top would be grooved, to look like thick oak decking planks.

By no means committed to this option, but considering it.   The square section wood is Australian Mountain Ash, a superb furniture quality hardwood.

Trevithick Boiler Feed Pump, and a base.

Quite a few potential workshop days are being foregone because we in southern Oz are experiencing a very hot summer.  And the few more moderate temperature days are “lost” to essential jobs for SWMBO, and around the house.   Shouldn’t complain about the weather.   Townsville, Queensland, where my brother and family lives, has been declared a disaster area due to torrential floods…  1000mm (39″) rain in the last few days, with more on the way.  And the next ice age has apparently started in USA.

But,  back to the workshop for a few hours here and there, I have made the boiler water feed pump for the Trevithick dredger engine.   As usual, I grossly underestimated the time these few simple components would take to make.

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The pump is driven off the crossbar where the stroke is 100mm (4″).  At the pump, the stroke is ~17mm (~5/8″).  The suction side has an 8mm (stainless steel) non return ball valve and the delivery has a 6mm non return SS ball valve.  The plans specified a dummy pump, for appearance only, but I have made it functional.

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The 2mm ss cap screw is to limit the ball movement to 0.8mm travel.  Something less conspicuous will replace the cap screw.  Probably a ss grub screw.

The rod driving the pump piston is a piece of bronze brazing filler rod.  Just happened to be the correct diameter.

I will need to add a further pump, hidden somewhere, for boiler approval.  It will probably be a hand pump.

The next step is to design and make the stand for the engine.  The plans specify a large, and in my opinion –  ugly, wooden box.  So that is not on my option list.

Most of these “dredger” engines were used in factories and mills.  Some were used to drive mine pumps, and a few were used on dredgers.  In the factories and mills they would have sat on masonry or wooden bases, and on the dredgers they would have sat on the very solid decks.  (the dredgers in some cases were converted gun ships, designed to mount large black powder cannons,  mortars or seige guns, so they were very solid!)

Now, some pictures of other dredger engine models, and the reconstructed full size one, and their bases.  I have numbered the pictures, and I would be interested in my readers opinion about which would best suit my model.  Please leave a comment.

 

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1. The engine as mounted in The London Science Museum, on large wooden blocks.

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2. A Model Dredger Engine on a masonry base.  I could do something similar, but I would used aerated concrete.

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3. A very simple wooden base.

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4. A beautifully crafted model on a cabinet maker’s base.  Acknowledgement to fredyfredy42.                                              I like the colour scheme too!

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5. Another simple wood block base, reminiscent of the gun boat decking and frame.

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6. An elegant wooden base

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7. And finally, the modern, aluminium base for the beam engine which I made a few years ago.  I like it on the beam engine, but I doubt that it would look OK under the Trevithick.  The dredger engine is shorter, taller, and narrower.

 

 

New Oxy-Propane Torch just watch!

Yesterday I took delivery of a tiny oxy torch.  I guess that most buyers would be jewellers,   but if you watched my post about silver soldering the tiny Trevithick dredger engine firebox door hinges, you will understand my interest in this Ebay offering for $AUD28.

I am experimenting with making videos for this post, so please excuse the amateurish faults in the following videos.

And here I am experimenting with the tiny torch.  Frankly, It is probably not up to the job here, but it was interesting trying it.  I can see that it will be very useful for other small jobs.

Please excuse the awful video technique.  I can see that I need a better camera, tripod, and technique.

This little oxy – propane/acetylene/MAPP gas/hydrogen/ etc is pretty awesome.

And BTW, the leak in the water pre-heater was fixed!

Brass Lust

Record hot temperatures in Australia today.  Highest temperature ever recorded in Adelaide 46ºc 114ºf.  And Alice Springs has now had 14 days over 40ºc.  Not so bad in Geelong 39ºc 102ºf,  but too hot for my workshop.

So I decided to celebrate the running of the Trevithick Dredger Engine 1:8 model, by driving to Melbourne and stocking up on round rod brass.

Geelong is 65km from Melbourne, freeway all the way, but the non ferrous supplier is the other side of Melbourne,  in Clayton, 100km away.   About a 2 hour trip.  But what better to do on a hot day.   And I had a new audio book to listen to.   (The book is “A.D   – After Disclosure”.  Yes, I am close to certain that UFO’s are real, of non terrestrial origin, and that their existence has been known to various militaries and governments for up to 70 years.  Another story.)

So I arrived at George White P/L in Clayton, and told the guy that I wanted a 3.6m length of every round brass section, metric and imperial, up to 22.11mm (7/8″) diameter, cut into 1.2m lengths so I could carry them in my car. (I had some 25.4mm 1″ already)

I had told SWMBO that I was going to spend a few hundred dollars, and she just responded “that’s OK, a lot cheaper than joining a golf club”.  So, without really doing a detailed calculation, and with that permission, I just sat back, and waited.

As the bundles of brass rod gradually accumulated on the bench, I was thinking….”Hmmm, that is a lot of brass”.

Then there was the offcuts box.  It was full of chunks of brass and bronze and copper.  At the flat rate price of $AUD6 per kg.   So, as I waited, I made a pile of all the bits that I thought would look good in my bits and pieces bin in my workshop.   It came to 34kg (75lb).   Eeeew.

Needless to say, the final bill came to more than a few hundred dollars.

But you know what?  I am really delighted that I can stop rummaging around and making do with wrong sizes, or machining little parts out of big bits of brass.

I do wonder if I will ever use up all of this round stock.  Some will probably be used by friends and members of my model engineering club.   Some will probably be there when there is a “clearing sale” after I snuff it.

Reminds me of a sign which I saw at a steam meeting   “When I am gone, I hope that my wife does not sell my engines for what I told her I paid for them”.

Timing the Trevithick Dredger engine-4

Success!!

After the debacle of the valve sleeve rotating because I had not secured it, I secured it with a grub screw, and had another attempt at running the engine today.

But before that I shortened the valve lever blocks by 2-3mm.  I had noticed that air was entering the cylinder well before top and bottom dead centre.  Shortening the bars delayed the entry a bit.   Still a little bit before TDC and BDC, but watch the videos to see the result.

 

So, it is still not finished, and the timing will need some fine tuning.  But it works!   Phew..

It works in forward and reverse, depending on piston position when it starts, or if the flywheel is given a initial swing.

In the above videos the engine is not bolted to the box, and some of the noise is the cranks hitting the box.  The valve arm being hit by the striker is also contributing to the noise.

I will work on the gas burner next.

 

Timing the Trevithick dredger engine-3. How embarrassing….

As planned I removed the engine from the boiler, to discover why it would not work with compressed air yesterday.

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After yesterday’s failed attempt with compressed air, I removed the cylinder and piston and valve assembly from the boiler to check the steam passages, throttle and rotary valve. 

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These components were removed so I could see what was going on.

I wish that I had checked this before going into print yesterday.

I discovered that the bronze cylindrical insert with the steam ports had never been fixed/Loctited into position.  Clearly it had rotated with the first engine movements yesterday, causing all steam passages to be blocked.  No wonder I couldn’t get the engine to do anything!

And worst was that I had mentally made a note to secure the insert, when I inserted it, a month or so ago.

So today I drilled and tapped a hole for a stainless steel grub screw to hold the insert into position.  I decided not to Loctite it at this time, but will do so when I am sure that the timing is correct.  I might need to alter the shape of the ports, and the insert would need to be removed to do that.

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Tapping the thread for the grub screw using the shop built tapping head which I made to Mogen Kilde’s design a couple of years ago.  I have never broken a tap while using this tool.

After reassembling the components I ran another test with compressed air.

Somewhat to my surprise, at 20psi the engine ran for a few revolutions, before  settling down into a back and forth motion.  It still needs to be timed, but hey, it moves.  But by this time it was becoming hot in the workshop, so I left the timing for another day.  Maybe tomorrow pm.   Not Thursday because it will be HOT.  42ºc  (107.6ºf)

 

Timing the Trevithick Dredger Engine_ 2 making the fittings

Today I made the fittings which would enable timing the dredger engine…

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I needed access to the boiler for compressed air, and a temporary installation of a pressure gauge.  I decided to add a valve, so that I could shut off or adjust the compressed air.

I had made a safety valve, with a lead weight, but I had no idea of what pressure the valve would release, hence the gauge.  A spring had been specified in the plans, but I did not know whether it was actually required, so initially I left it out.

So, with the above setup completed, I turned on the compressor, and waited to see when the safety valve would vent.

It vented at about 20psi, a bit low.   So I added a spring.   That pushed the venting pressure up to 30psi.   At 30psi, the engine was still not turning over.

I was expecting that the engine would move at 30psi, but that the timing would need adjusting.   After an initial movement back and forth…. nothing.

The engine is still a bit tight, so maybe more pressure required, so I installed a heavier spring.

Nothing.

So I installed a heavier spring.  Pressure rose to 50psi before venting.  Still no movement in the engine.   Something is wrong.

Possibilities…

  1. The throttle is not working properly.  Maybe the plans are back to front, or I have made the throttle back to front.  I have made both of those errors in previous builds.
  2. The steam valve is back to front.  Yes, I have done that before too.
  3. There is a blocked steam-air passage.  Yes, I have managed that one before too.

Next steps…   re-examine the plans.    Do a tear down of the throttle and steam valves.   If no obvious cause for the failure of movement…. call for expert help.   Yep.  I have done that before too.

Timing the Trevithick Dredger Engine – 1. theory.

The plan is this…

  1. Finish constructing and installing all of the components, including gaskets, seals.
  2. Install a pressure gauge, in a temporary position.  Trevithick did not have pressure gauges available, but the current model boiler regulations insist on one.  So my plan is to have one installed eventually on the base, out of the viewing public sight, but where the operator (me) can see it.  For the purposes of the timing, which requires some pressure in the boiler, the gauge location will be on top of the boiler, but moved to its final position later.
  3. Install a fitting to admit compressed air to the boiler.  And a valve to adjust the flow and turn the air on and off.

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The lever with the hole controls the entry and exhaust of steam into each end of the cylinder. (The other handle is the throttle.)

The timing is adjusted by removing material from the blocks above and below the lever.  The blocks were made, deliberately, a few millimeters too long.

I will put some compressed air into the boiler, at about 20psi, and slowly move the lever until I hear air entering the cylinder at each end.  The lever position at which  air enters each end of the cylinder will be marked and measured.  Then the blocks will be machined or filed to the correct length.  I will assume that if the entry point is correct, then the exhaust will automatically be correct.

That’s the theory.

I have started making fittings for the pressure gauge and air couplings, and hope to get to the timing in the next day or so.   I will also be checking the pressure at which the safety valve lifts.  I will be aiming for 55-60psi.

Trevithick Dredger Engine. The con rod bearing wedges.

Well, if the comments and likes drop off again, I will threaten to take my bat and ball and shut down again.  10 comments so far on this mornings post (I Give in)!  Thanks everyone.  It is very encouraging.

So here is a Trevithick dredger engine update.

Yesterday and today I have been making and installing the wedges which secure the connecting rod bearings.  The wedges are only 2mm thick, and have a 3 degree taper.  They sit in slots also 2mm wide.

The 4 wedges were fairly simply milled out of 2mm thick brass sheet.  Steel would probably have been preferable, but if the brass wedges ever wear out I will make steel ones then.

The slots were milled manually.  I have some 2mm end mills, and I used them in the accessory high speed spindle at 18,000rpm, taking 0.3mm depth each pass.   Even so I managed to break 2 end mills.

This is the end result.

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The wedge is below the 3 square nuts.  It pushes on the split bearing.

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And similarly the wedge at the cross head end of the con rod.

The wedges have tightened up the con rod bearings, removing slop and noise.   They look a  bit rough in the magnified photo, but in reality are OK IMO.   Each wedge is individually fitted to its slot, so I have engraved them to identify the position for when they are removed later on.

Next job…. make a fitting to admit compressed air so the steam valve opening and closing timing can be adjusted.

I GIVE IN

I had decided to cease my WordPress subscription, and cease writing these blogs, recently, and a few readers have very kindly expressed regret about the impending demise of johnsmachines.com.

The annual WordPress fees increased by 23% a year or two ago, and this year they added a domain name charge which amounted to another 25%.  It adds up to about $aud160 each year, not a fortune, but it would buy a handy supply of end mills.  And the price increases are way in excess of inflation levels, and show no signs of slowing.

But more importantly, I do wonder just how much interest there is in the blog.  Roughly 150 people log in each day, and look at one or two entries each.  The “like” button is pressed maybe once each day.  And a comment is entered about once each day or less.  Not very encouraging.  I do wonder if I am wasting my time and money.

So those are the reasons I had decided to stop.

Then yesterday, a friend who I shall call Les, told me that he was very disappointed that johnsmachines was stopping, and how much he had enjoyed it.  He said that he was always pleased to get the notification of another johnsmachines entry, and reading what was going on in my workshop.

Les is paralysed from the waist down, the result of polio when he was a teenager.  He was a champion athlete when he was struck down with the then dreaded disease.  In those days, vaccination against polio was not widely available.  (If you would enjoy a highly articulate tongue lashing, just make critical comment about vaccination to Les.)  Despite the disability, Les worked full time, and was very active in the workshop, and at our model engineering club.  In fact he was one of the founding members of GSMEE, 30 years ago.   He has an incisive intellect, and when he speaks, it always pays to listen carefully.

So when he made that comment about johnsmachines.com, I listened, and reflected.

And I have decided to continue for another year.

(thanks also to Huib Hoogendoorn, Tim Gee, Brendan Wallace, daredesign, someone, Peter, Jenny, johnf, Ben, and others, who encouraged me to continue).

 

Another axis for the Boxford 125TCL

Watch the video of Stuart Tankard making tiny valve handles on his CNC lathe.  Changing the old Boxford spindle motor to a new generation servo motor allows him to use Mach3 to control the spindle to turn very slowly and to a set number of degrees, producing the very attractive handle cut-outs and rim dimples.  i.e. he has added the functionality of an indexing head to his CNC lathe.

It required adding a small milling head and motor to the toolpost.

I can see one of these on my Boxford 125TCL in the near future.

Trevithick Dredger.. attaching the flywheel and driving gear to the mainshaft.

The flywheel and driving gear both are attached to cranks which join the connecting rods to the mainshaft.  It is important that both cranks are attached with the same angularity.   Seems simple.  The cranks are identical.  But small taper holes, through brass and silver steel.

Drilling the 2 holes took most of the day.

Figuring the setup was the biggest challenge.

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This is the setup on the milling machine.  The mainshaft is cramped on parallels, and ends of the cranks are resting on smaller parallels.   The square sections of the cranks have been centered.

First problem was that the 2.5mm drill bits were not long enough for the chuck to clear the gear.   I did not have adequately small ER collets (would have required ER8’s), but I did have a Dremel chuck which was small enough.  But no spindle for the Dremel chuck.  The Dremel chuck has a really odd thread.  I measured it at 40tpi, and 7.05mm diameter.

So I made a spindle.   Thank goodness for CNC threading.

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The Dremel chuck and the shop made spindle.

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Dremel chucks are convenient, but they are not very accurate.  Fortunately, once the hole was centred, the drill bits and reamer seemed to follow the centred start.   Here I am about to ream the hole which has 3 steps   2.5mm, 2,8mm, and 3mm.   The shop made spindle is held in the milling machine drilling chuck.

I took the reaming very gently, not wanting any broken bits of high speed steel stuck in the workpiece…. and all was well.

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And here is the gear crank pinned to the mainshaft.

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And this is the setup for the flywheel end.   Fortunately, by good management or good luck, I was able to remove the flywheel, leaving half of the crank insitu, for drilling reaming and pinning.

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I spent some time assembling the cranks and testing the rotation movements.  It does rotate, but there is still some sticking on the guides, the cause of which I have not identified/isolated.

So I sat back and enjoyed one of my Xmas presents.   Ah!   Bliss!

Making a Lead Ball for the safety valve

The deWaal plans for the Trevithick Dredger Engine call for a 30mm diameter lead ball for the safety valve.

I considered substituting steel or brass, and turning the ball, but lead is almost 50% more dense than the other metals, and that could be detrimental to the functioning of the safety valve, so I worked out how to make the ball in lead.

I have previously cast lead balls 14mm diameter, but this is significantly bigger.  I did briefly consider making a plaster of Paris mould, but I could find no balls of the correct diameter for the POP mould, so I decided to mill the mould.

On rummaging through my big milling cutters, I discovered that I have a ball nose cutter, 31.75mm diameter.  It was part of a package of cutters which I had purchased years ago, and almost forgotten.  I had bought the cutters BY WEIGHT.  I think that I paid $US5 per pound, and I bought 20lb.  Mostly the cutters were resharpened end mills, but one of them was an unused 31.75mm ball nose.  Pretty close to perfect for this job!

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First I cut off two 25mm lengths of 40mm square solid alu bar.

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Then milled them pretty close to square and identical.

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Then used the 31.75mm end mill to make a hemisphere in each alu blank and drilled and tapped for a 5mm cap screw in each corner. 

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On the left is the mould, screwed together, with a hole drilled into the spherical cavity.  Here I am heating it in a frypan, ready to accept the molten lead, which is being prepared in the cast iron saucepan on the right.  I hasten to add that SWMBO knows nothing about this.  Those utensils are part of my workshop gear, and will never be used for human consumption.  SWMBO does not read this blog, so I am safe.  I hope.

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From my previous experience with lead castings, I have decided that the mould should be 250-300ºc so the lead will not solidify in the small entry hole, and also to minimise the formation of voids in the casting.

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Here is the molten lead after pouring.  It is still liquid.

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And after cooling and splitting the mould.  The hemispheres were not exactly aligned.

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And there was a big void.  I could have filled it.  But I decided that if I made the mould even hotter, it might work better, so I made another lead sphere.

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The next one, on the left, worked perfectly.  I heated the mould to 300ºc, and no voids at all.   I also reversed the bolting positions which removed the hemispherical misalignment. Drilled and tapped for the supporting ring.

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And here is the weight in its final position.   I dropped it, resulting in a Death Star indentation, which I kind of like.  A little bit of polishing will remove the latitude lines.

Only one part for the day’s work again.  But it was a LOT OF FUN!

 

 

 

How Many One Off Parts Can You Make Per Day?

Obviously it depends how many machining operations are required per part, but these days I find that one or two parts per day is about all that I can manage.  That includes deciding on then finding the material,  drawing up the part in CAD, mounting the material and the cutter(s), then machining and finishing time.

Take today for example.  My aim was make a steam pressure valve for the Trevithick Dredger Engine.   It consists of a lead ball weight 30mm diameter, a lever arm with a hook, a simple stand with a M6 male thread, a movement restrainer, and the seat and valve.  6 fairly simple parts.  I thought that I might get it all done in one day.

But at the end of the day, all that I had made was the arm, stand and restrainer.  3 simple parts.

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The pressure valve arm, stand and restrainer in place.

Admittedly the arm is stainless steel of unknown grade.  I broke 2  (4mm) cutters before I had slowed the milling feed rate to a snail’s pace 40mm/minute.  Machining time for that part was over an hour!  Then at least another hour of hand filing and finishing.

It is just as well that the worst day in the workshop is better than the best day of working!

And next will the interesting job of making the 30mm diameter lead ball weight.  Still thinking about that one.

Boxing Day in Oz

So, Xmas day was great.  Perfect weather, middle daughter’s home and vegetarian cooking thanks to her husband and all guests, and limitation rules for presents so that aspect was not gross.  And SWMBO agreed to be designated driver home.   So I could freely partake the lovely Aussie big reds.   And whiskeys.   And best of all… cigars.

Don’t remember much about the trip home.   But apparently we made it because I woke up with a dry throat but no headache. Must have been good reds and single malts.

Then best of all…. Boxing day!   Means that it is all over for another year.

A slow start to the day, then a half day in the workshop.

I spent several hours measuring various dimensions of the build to date.  Although I had been careful to keep the dimensions correct, the cross head was sticking and jamming on the slides.   Some dimensions were out by up to a millimetre…   mainly due, I suspect, to movements during the big silver soldering sessions.

So I tried various permutations and commutations to minimise the aberrations.  And started introducing brass shim strips to remove the aberrations.

And It gradually started to improve the situation.

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Shims under the base, and between the base pieces and the boiler.

Then I installed the valve timing mechanism.

But…..  it fouls the domed end of the boiler.

What to do?     After a lot of messing around, trial and error, swapping components around, I have decided to remake a couple of components AND to ease the fit between a couple of the others.    At least the cross head has stopped jamming so I am winning.

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Close up shot of the valve switching mechanism.

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The photo shows a vertical mark where the mechanism is scraping along the domed boiler end.

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where I left it for the day.  Will give it a miss tomorrow…   very hot day predicted.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine.. the steam valve operator.

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I did not know what to name this assembly.  It attaches to the cross head, and pushes the handle of the steam valve up and down each revolution to admit and release steam from each end of the cylinder.

It uses the U shaped metal strip which I cut out and bent yesterday.   It is 230mm long, and I made it from brass, including the filler strips which actually contact with the valve lever.  I made the filler strips a few mm longer than necessary, so I can file them as necessary when the engine is timed.

Trevithick Dredger Engine.. the firedoor fittings. Or silver soldering tiny pieces.

Another day in the workshop.

Yesterday I  bolted the latch to the door.  But how to attach the catch to the surround, and the restraint to the door.  The plans call for tiny screws, but that method did not appeal.  I decided to silver solder them in place.  Silver solder is immensely strong, and does not require tapping and threading minute screws into position.  The problem with silver solder is that some parts of the firedoor are already silver soldered, and I did not want to risk undoing that previous solder.

So, I used a heat sink.

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The catch is held in position by pressure from the latch.  I did NOT want to melt the solder of the hinge, so I rested a sizeable block of brass on the hinge.  Pure copper would have been even better.  Then, as I was soldering the catch, any heat travelling toward the hinge would have been absorbed into the brass heat sink.

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A staged shot, after soldering the catch was finished.  I was careful to keep the flux just in the joint which was to be soldered, to avoid the solder running into other areas.

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A close up of the soldered catch.  The iphone camera is pretty good hey?  That catch is only 3mm wide.   A bit of filing and finishing needed.

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And the finished door.  Looks OK IMO.

The next job for today was to machine a strip of metal 6mm wide, 2mm thick and 600mm long.  I decided to make it from brass because I have a sheet of brass the correct thickness, and I was already thinking about the tight bend which was going to be required.

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So, I bandsawed a strip of brass from the sheet, about 50mm wide.  Then removed the milling vice and universal divider from the milling machine.  I am amazed at how those items are becoming heavier with age!    Then cramped the brass strip to the table and machined the sawn edge with a 6mm end mill which protruded into the milling table slot.  Fortunately I managed to not enlarge the T slot during this procedure.

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Then moved the brass strip, and indicated it parallel.  Then used the 6mm endmill to cut off the 6.5mm strip.  Probably not very efficient, but it worked, and the strip was correctly sized and dimensioned.

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Finally, annealed the middle of the strip, and bent it around a 5mm thick piece of steel, with a rounded edge.   This will become the fitting which operates the steam inlet/outlet valve.

Trevithick Dredger Engine ….Con Rods

I had previously bent the brass U pieces which hold the split bronze bearings to the wooden connecting rods.  I had also made the con rods and the bearings.  Today’s job was to fit them all together.

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Bending the U pieces on my shop made bender.

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And the Jarrah con rods.  The U pieces need to be shortened.

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With the bearing in place, measuring the amount of shortening required (approximately).

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Using an end mill to shorten the U piece arms.  Note the paper between the workpiece and the vice jaws.  That reduces the chance of the work moving.  How do I know?  Dont ask.

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The holes are carefully drilled M4 through the U piece and the wood.  Stainless steel square nuts on SS threaded rod.   Then the bearing was reamed again to the finish dimension.  I have yet to make the wedges which hold the pieces in position.

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The (almost) finished connecting rods.

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And a test installation on the engine.  A bit of workshop clutter to add to the atmosphere.

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And I had a bit of daylight on this beautiful summer day, so I made and installed the firedoor latch.

I am hopeful that I will have this engine running before I say goodbye as my subscription to WordPress finishes.  Not exactly sure when that will happen, so if I suddenly disappear, do a search on YouTube for the video of it running on steam.    Still a fair bit to do before that happens, but things are progressing!

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine… hinges for the fire door.

No big deal?  This “little” task caused me quite a bit of heartburn.

I had redesigned the flat face of the boiler, including the door and had not really thought through the door design and hinges.

Needless to say, the original hinges as designed by Tubal Cain and Julius deWaal, were quite incompatible with my redesign.

There are NO original drawings of Trevithick’s original designs of this face.  The Rees Cyclopedia drawings do not include this face, and it is hard to tell if the London Science Museum reconstruction is original in this respect.  I did read somewhere that the firedoor in his engines was a casting, so I did not feel bad about silver soldering components to build up the final parts.

In the end, after a failed effort at making a hinge, I decided to wing it, and make something which would work.

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This is my interpretation of a Trevithick fire door hinge.  No idea if it approximates Trevithick reality, but I suspect that no-one else knows either.

The tricky bit was silver soldering the 5mm brass tube bits to the appropriate base, and not getting silver solder into the hinge itself.

It was tricky, but it works!!

 

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The latch, the catch, and the movement restrainer come next.  The hinge pin is the cobalt drill which I could not release after the soldering.  Oh well…  cobalt steel should work well.   Incidentally, the stainless steel cap screws will be replaced with studs and square nuts when I around to it.    Now thinking about the propane burner and tubing.

 

Antartica Again!

Large sections of Antarctica have been suddenly hidden from view on Google Earth Pro, using fake clouds and checkerplate patterns.

They ARE fake because 1. they appeared suddenly (just a day after I had posted photos of strange objects, with coordinates, and the “clouds” neatly covered the areas about which I had posted.   2. the “clouds” are present, despite turning off atmosphere in GEP.  3. the “clouds” are present in all dates of the timeline, extending back 20-30 years, and the cloud pattern is unchanging over those decades.

Well, the fake clouds are still there, obscuring the interesting area, so I spent some time looking at a nearby area beyond the clouded area.

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The red and yellow placemarks are those which the “clouds” and the “checkerplate” neatly cover.  The blue placemarks are those placed by me today.  They are not obscured, yet.   Take a look at what they are showing in the following photos.

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Zooming in a bit, still 665km above the surface, showing the position of the blue placemarks.  The checkerplate line zigzags across the screen and everything to the left is deliberately (IMO) obscured.    Scale is bottom left, and compass top right.

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Look at that straight line of odd objects.  I counted 28 of them, at about 1 km intervals.  From 14km above the surface.   Maginot Line?

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Zooming in closer.  Same again!  300m long, 200m wide, black centre, grey objects surrounding.   Still 2006.  They appeared in 2004 and disappear 2008.  2006 is the clearest year.   From 5km above surface.

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And another.   Dozens of them in this area.  These are NOT natural features.

And the huge black rectangular object which is still showing in Google Maps…

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 A Google Maps image said to be taken in 2018.

Open your eyes people.  There is stuff going on, and we are not being told.

More Trevithick, and Xmas

The last 20% of the build takes 80% of the time.  Someones law.  But SO true.

I should be Xmas shopping.  But frankly, buying stuff which costs money, is not wanted or appreciated, takes time, and should be donated to people who really need it….  irritates me.

At least the adults in my family have taken a sensible decision to randomly allocate one person to buy a present, for one person only, to a maximum amount.

But it does mean that the one present should be meaningful.

I decided on something that my allocated recipient might like.  A bit unusual.  Something they (he or she) would never normally buy, and should make an impression.  But there was a catch….  I had to drive to the shopping centre, park, find the shop, and buy.

So I looked up the shop on the computer, noted the address, drove there, parked, paid parking, walked several hundred meters, and could not find the shop.  Walked for about an hour.   The shop no longer exists.  It has closed and they have not changed the Internet info.  Bummer.

But at least I actually own one of the items.   It is a bit old.  Actually about 40 years.  But it is in good condition.  so I will wrap it and give it.  And hope that its aged condition is not  detrimental.

My allocated recipient is the au pair, from Italy, aged 19, who lives with and looks after some of my grandchildren.  She is a lovely girl, and I believe that she is really enjoying her stay in Australia, with my youngest daughter and her family.

The present is an Australian flag.  I hang it on out front gate every Australia Day.  I hope that she sees it as a compliment, and a memory of her stay in in Oz.

I will buy a replacement for myself.  It will probably be made in China, but so what?

So today I had a few hours in the workshop after wasting a half day in the shopping mall.

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And made and installed the water feed tube from the pre-heater to the boiler.  I had made the clack valve in my previous session.

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I find that it is actually quite tricky to make the bends in exactly the correct place, with exactly the correct angular bends, and to silver solder the flanges at the correct angles.   This one worked out well.   I usually bend a piece of aluminium wire to roughly the correct dimensions, on which to base my copper tube bends.

Finally, normally, I detest Christmas (actually it is Saturnalia, a pagan roman festival).  The commercialism, the waste on presents, the killing of turkeys, pigs, sea life.   It is all gross, and I hate it. Yes, I am a grinch.  Once, I just refused to take part in it, but the fall out was immense, and I am not strong enough to repeat that protest.  But this year, my adult children have made a decision which makes me immensely proud.  They have decided to limit adult presents to one per person, (the grandchildren still get heaps), and the meal will be vegetarian.  A step in an wonderful direction.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine… No more aliens, just a gear

Another few hours in the workshop, and I made the spur gear which transmits power to the dredger bucket chain.

I chose bronze, because 1. It will not rust 2. It machines fairly easily 3. I had some in the correct size!

I did think about whether to CNC mill the gear, or make it on my lathe and form the teeth with a custom built cutter.  In the end, I decided to CNC mill the entire part.   The plans called for a tooth shape which looked like an Acme threaded part.  I decided that Trevithick would NOT have made it like that, nor would he have known about pressure angles, and parabolic tooth shapes, so I winged it and drew a shape on the CAD which was a bit between both.

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As you can see it is a blank of bronze which I bought at scrap price from a local supplier.  Here centering it on the CNC mill using a Starrett wobbler.

Roughing the shape was with a 6mm 4 flute carbide cutter.

 

And finishing, to impart the fine fillets, was with a 3mm carbide cutter, taking 1mm depth bites.  I broke one, but the next one, new, finished the job intact.

 

And here is the gear, still attached  to the bronze rod.  Now, how to detach it?

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The blank gear still attached to the bronze rod.

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So I started by using a parting blade, but I chickened out when it had plunged about 12mm.

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So then I parted the gear from the bronze rod on the bandsaw.  It was a bit tricky… became quite hot.

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After bandsawing, I counted my fingers, 9, hang on there’s another, so 10.

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Then I surfaced the back of the gear on the mill.  Actually, I tried gluing the gear to a silver steel rod, and turning the back face, but the glue did not survive.  So I resorted to this solution which worked fine.

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And this is the gear, with the crank push fitted.  pretty neat hey!

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And the inside face.  Some filing required to remove sharp edges.  Or maybe I will put it in the gemstone tumbler for a couple of hours.

Hey, no aliens!  But watch this...

Trevithick Dredger Engine.. connecting the water pre-heater

A few more hours in the workshop today.

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The steam exhaust from the engine passes through a tube to the chimney.

Since this was the worlds first “strong steam” (high pressure) boiler, the water level in the boiler needs to be constantly replenished.

Trevithick thought that the water coming into the boiler could be preheated by the exhausted steam.  So he conceived a double tube, with the exhausted steam exiting through the inner tube, and the water being pumped through the outer tube….  A heat exchanger.  It was awkward to make using modern heat sources and silver solder.  I can only imagine how it was made 200 years ago, using castings and black-smithed iron panels.

The users noticed that the steam which was injected into the chimney improved the coal fire.

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The cap screws are temporary, until I replace them with square nuts and stainless thread.

The hardest part of these connection pieces was keeping the flanges square to the 1/4″ copper tube while silver soldering them.    Any clever methods out there?

Back to the Trevithick Dredger Engine. No aliens… promise.

OK, it is not just the fascination with Antarctica and whatever it is that is going on down there, and that they are NOT TELLING US!

But SWMBO has insisted that I assist with the renovation currently going on with an investment property.  Unfortunately, I am very handy with all sorts of skills which she finds useful, like assembling flat pack kitchens and laundrys, and welding broken windows, and winching crooked concrete steps, and removing rubbish in my ute (which is now fixed after the failed thieving attempt).

But I managed to grab a few hours in the workshop today, so I made the pre-heater for the boiler water feed.

This was another Trevithick invention, using the exhausted steam  to heat the water before it is pumped into the boiler.

It is a tube within a tube, and the inner tube (copper) has separate inlet and outlets, each with its own flange.

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It looks simple, but it has 10 parts.  All silver soldered.  Too many to solder in one heating session.  It needed several redos before it was satisfactory.  But seems good.

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There!  Did not mention aliens once.  But did you see this video…just watch it!

Antarctica Again. Bear with me. This is so weird.

OK, I will get back to the metal working soon.  I promise.

But this is so odd that I have to record it.

Reader Richard  thought that I would be interested in this Antarctic site, which was recorded on YouTube a few years ago.  The original YouTuber, thirdphaseofthemoon,    was lampooned in the comments on his post,  having called the site a “mega alien city” but I believe that this site could be significant for a different reason.

Go to 75ºS 0ºE (not exact but close enough.  The exact coords are in the screenshots which follow.)

And the following screen shots go back in time.  Just bear with me.

 

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Note the fake cloud cover which appeared a few days ago.

 

The area of interest today is at the centre of the screen, and is marked 75ºS0ºE.  Note that it is in the middle of the shapes which I posted yesterday.

Zooming into this spot using the most recent Google Earth photos shows this..

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Now you have to admit, that is unusual!  A flat, snow covered plain, with a bit of a hill, and a straight row of somethings, at regular intervals, about 2km long.  And a hole of some sort to the NE.   Stay with me!!

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These images are from 2016.  Close up, each “something” appears to be a hole.  The V shaped patterns to the SW I believe to be snow patterns, formed by the prevailing wind.  Note the reddish discolouration.   (Please check this out in Google Earth yourself!)

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And this is the big hole/cave mouth/whatever to the NE.   All a bit puzzling.   So let’s go back in time.   Google Earth does not make this exercise easy, because images disappear, and you have to zoom out, then in, but it can be done with persistence.

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Well, look at that.  2013.  The same spot.  An airstrip, some well travelled tracks,  excavations in the region of the big hole/cave mouth, and if you zoom in, you can see some machines.  Note the red discolouration again.  I have no idea what that colour is caused by.

Now we go back through some years….

 

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2012.  Before the excavations.  Look at the shape of the mound under the snow.

 

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Closer, 2012

 

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2011.  Note the shape before the excavations.  What does it remind you of?  Possibly a V shape or a chevron?  Does it remind you of some of the UFO’s which have been video’d in YouTube lately?    Hang in there, it gets better!  The chevron appears first in the satellite pictures of the area in 2001.

The oldest Google Earth image which I could obtain of the area was from 1984.  It is slighly north of the 75ºS 0ºE area of the later chevron and the excavations.  What do you see?   I see lots of coloured objects, with the same shapes, and differing orientations.  I do not believe that these are natural features or swamp gas.

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1984, close to where the chevron shaped mound later appears.

 

And close up

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These “objects” are about 60 x 150 meters big.  Pinks, yellow, green.   And they are located around the region of the chevron shape, and nowhere else that I can find!  What are they?

So, what have they found, and are excavating in 2013?  Dare I say it?  Well it looks like a UFO shape to me.  The 2013 regular row of holes and the big hole, I suspect are human efforts to investigate whatever is buried, without obviously displaying it to observers like us.

And I have no idea what the 1984 coloured objects are.

 

 

Why the SECRECY about ANTARCTICA?

Google Earth has suddenly obscured the area in Wilkes Land Antarctica with “cloud” cover.  Turning off “atmosphere” in the Google Earth settings does not remove the “cloud” cover.  Scanning back and forth over the years 1954 – 2016 does not remove it either.  It remains unchanged over the years 1954-2016.

The cloud cover has a checkerplate edge.  It does not have a realistic appearance.

Also, it conveniently and almost exactly covers the placemarks on the map of Antarctica which I posted a day or two ago, which show the location of the odd rectangular shapes.

But, today, I have scanned other areas of Antarctica and found a lot more of the rectangular shapes in a non obscured area.   See the screenshot below.

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The odd shapes appear only in the years 2003 to 2006, so if you want to check this yourself, use the timeline.

In the picture above, the unobscured area is at the 12 o’clock position.  It is south of the South Atlantic ocean if you are looking for it.   The co-ordinates are in the screen shots which follow.    The huge black rectangle and surrounding shapes are in the area which is now hidden by the “cloud” and checkerplate. (at the 4 o’clock position in the picture above).

I am certain that these shapes are not natural features for the following reasons…  1. they appear only in the years 2003-7; 2. they do not have a similar appearance to other natural features such as non snow covered mountains;  3.they do not appear in any other snow covered areas that I have searched such as Greenland, Novaya Zemlya, Alaska; 4. they have remarkable consistency of size and similarity to each other of shape;  and the fact that someone appears to have attempted to stop other Google Earth users from seeing them.  So take a look before the next cluster is covered with “cloud” or checkerplate.

For the public record I have taken screenshots of 30-40 of the shapes, and I am posting some of these below.   The coordinates of each one is at the bottom of the screen in each case.  The are mostly taken from a height of about 4000 meters.

The first 4 shots are of the same location, over 4 years.

 

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2003 nothing to see

 

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2004  Hello! WTF is that?

 

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2006  A bit clearer

 

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2007 gone.  Never to be seen again.

Now some more, but only in 2006, which was the clearest year.

 

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They are all close to north-south orientation.  Note the projections from the central black area and the barely visible grey shapes in the white rectangular surrounding area.  The white area usually measures 300m x 150m or 200m.

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This group are natural features, from the same altitude and of a similar size.

 

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Some of the rectangles are in close clusters, but most are are separated by many kilometers.

 

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And this group (from a higher altitude) forms a straight line.

 

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Some are in more rugged terrain

 

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Different sizes

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There are hundreds of these over the surface of Antarctica 2003 – 2007.

Why did Admiral Byrd of the USN take an invasion fleet and 4700 soldiers to Antarctica in 1947, 2 years after the end of WW2?  Look up Operation Highjump.

Why did President Obama visit Antarctica just before his presidency finished?  (unconfirmed)

Why did Buzz Aldrin visit Antarctica just before his death?

Why did Prince Harry,  and Patriarch Kirill of the Eastern Orthodox church visit Antarctica?

Why did John Kerry (US Secretary of State) visit Antarctica on election day?

Why are we not being told what is going on down there?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paranoia

I realise that most of you who look at this blog do so to watch the progress on my steam engines, and lately you have been getting a lot of weird stuff about Antarctica.

Well, this is another one about Antarctica.

Suddenly, the Google Earth images of the area of Antarctica which I have found very interesting, have been blotted out with a crude graphic which blots out the items of interest.

The crude graphic looks a bit like cloud cover from a distance, but it does not change over the years timeline and close up it is obviously not real cloud..  Look at the screenshots below, and notice the relation of the graphic to my placemarks, which were inserted by me before the blotting out graphic appeared.

 

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The blotting out graphic is the two “checkerplate” strips and the area between and nearby.  See how it neatly includes my placemarks.

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The “Atmosphere” setting in Google Earth is off.  But it persists in some areas.  And look how it neatly includes all of my placemarks. 

 

Come on guys!  This is beyond coincidence.  Someone does not appreciate my posts about the odd shapes in this region.

Either that, or I am really going a bit pararoid.

 

WTF!

I subscribe to a YouTube site named secureteam10.  It collects many odd videos and photos  mainly about UFO’s and other unexplained phenomena.  A lot is total rubbish, but his post for today caught my eye.

This is a screen shot from today’s secureteam10  post  of a Google Earth view which includes clouds.

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Notice the straight line cloud (?) between Perth, WA, and Antarctica.

It might be a natural cloud formation, but it does look unusual.

Then I thought, “I reckon that the Antarctic end is somewhere near the area of Antartica where I located the huge reflective black rectangle, and the other scattered odd shapes which I had placemarked”

Well, guess what….

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Do you see my yellow and red placemarks?

 

Read this response to Antarctic Weird

I received this email today.  I am posting it with Jennifer Edwards’ permission.  Just reading it made the hairs on my neck stand up!   
BTW, I will continue posting until my current subscription runs out in a couple of months.
John,

sorry to see you go. I was enjoying your wit as well as great machining skills. I have the same issue with a web site I maintain for my partner. The bastids nickel and dime mw to death, send me renewal notices a year in advance, and try to sell me security crap with e-mails spouting fearful phrases that always seem to include the words “haters, Spammers, and internet thieves. I do not blame you for pulling out.

When reading about your Antarctic pictures it reminded me of an experience I had when I was about 18 years old. I have not told this to many people over the years simply because every time I do they look at me like I am crazy, however you seem to have an open mind so I will risk never hearing from you again….
 
The event occurred over forty six years ago. There were three of us present, and unfortunately I am the last surviving member of the group.
 
It was Late October 1972,  the Friday evening before Halloween in Southern New Jersey. My future X, my little brother, and I were on our way from our home town of Cinnaminson to our family cabin on Bamber Lake, in the Southern New Jersey pine lands. I was driving. Our route took us on unimproved two lane back roads that normally only see farm traffic. The weather was a crisp and clear October evening with unlimited visibility.
 
About a mile east of  Vincentown I rounded a bend and there it was in the north west corner of a small rectangular field of maybe three possibly four acres. The road ran the length of the field. The field was surrounded by large old oak trees along the West and the North. The road ran along the south boarder and then curved along the eastern boarder. The field was long and narrow.
 
As I rounded the bend a brilliant light caught my eye. There in the north West corner of the field was a large object hovering. It was shaped like a bell, about 40-50 feet high and maybe 70-80 feet in diameter. Only an oval dome at the top of the bell was above the tree line. 
 
Upon later reflection we realised that the location of the object was less than three miles to McGuire AFB. It would have been a great vantage point to observe the airfield.
 
I noticed that there was a berm along the edge of the field which I drove up on to put my headlights on the object. We sat in awe for maybe 20 seconds at which time the three of us exited the car to get a better look. Please note, to this day whenever I think of that evening the hair stands up on my neck, it was that profound an experience.
 
The object was hovering, maybe ten feet off the ground. It was shaped like a bell with a convex bottom. It was a dirty whitish grayish in colour. The apex had a brilliant white light which radiated beautiful, quickly pulsing, beams of light in pure crystalline colours, vivid blue, violet, red, and green. The beams seemed to come from a brilliant blue white point just below the oval disk on the top of the “bell” to a row of the same colour of white lights evenly spaced along the rim, then from those white spots to another white light in the centre of the convex bottom of the craft.
 
Maybe ten years later I saw my first laser light demonstration, it was that type of pure crystalline single wavelength light that instantly reminded me of that object. In fact the hairs on the back of my neck and on my arms stood straight up.
 
As it hovered it made a sound akin to a very large saw mill blade swinging. I cannot find other words to describe that whirring sound other than a saw mill blade spinning.
 
The three of us were standing in front of the car, headlights on the object just gawking at the objet. This went on for maybe a minute possibly a minute and a half. 
 
BTW I am a licensed pilot and also a highly experienced sea captain, I am a good observer, with an eye for size and distance. We were maybe 175-200 feet away from the object.
 
At that point I alone started walking towards it, my x and brother were too awestruck to move. When I got extremely close, less one hundred feet, probably more like seventy five feet away. The size of this thing sank in. It was the size of a small house! I started smelling that lightning storm ozone odour,  began getting a strong metallic taste in my mouth, and felt tingly on my skin. This scared me so I made a slow retreat back to the car never taking my eyes off the object.
 
When I rejoined the other two we stood there for maybe two more minutes, just looking, listening to the whirring, not speaking beyond a few “wows” and “oh my gods”. Then it hit me, I had a Yashica 35mm camera loaded with asa 400 film and sporting a 200mm lens on the front seat. 
 
I reached into the car, grabbed it and began fumbling trying to remember how to focus  it when you could not see thru the view finder. It was one of those old 35mm cameras with all manual controls. I was unfamiliar with the camera and fumbled around. I never did get a shot, something I truly wish I had done, as anyone I related this story to since that day some forty six years ago has either thought I was crazy or simply humoured me.
 
Any way, as soon as I aimed the camera at the object it seemed to immediately react to the threatening move of pointing what may have been perceived as a weapon at it. 
 
iI’s sound began to change. It got higher and higher and higher in pitch and volume until it was just a deafening hiss, like high pressure steam being vented thru a small aperture. 
 
Some years later in San Diego I had another hair standing up moment when I went to work with a fixed hard disk manufacturer. We had tanks of liquid freon that were huge ultrasonic cleaners used to clean the 18” stainless steel disks before transferring them into the clean room for final assembly. The first time I turned one on and heard that hissss there went the hair standing up again. That was the frequency of the sound. This had to be around 1982.
 
Sorry to digress, any way the sounds frequency went up, the pulsing lights became gradually brighter and more brilliant until the entire craft was one very bright white fuzzy bell. The craft slowly rose to an altitude of maybe 150 feet. It slowly went on paralleling the road heading northeast about 100 feet to the west of the road.
 
We jumped in the car and followed. We were able to keep up with it for maybe a mile and a half  while it slowly accelerated until it finally had a good lead of maybe several hundred yards. It’s altitude was increasing as was its rate of climb. Slowly at first, but obviously steadily accelerating in what settled in at about a 30 or 40 degree climb.. The road ended in a “Tee” intersection. So again we got out of the car and stood in the middle of the itersection watching as it continued its climbing. We were able to keep an eye on it due to the exceptionally clear sky and the fact that we were way out on the country, so light pollution was not a factor..
 
Finally after another five or more likely six minutes the thing was just another one of the stars in the sky. It grew fainter and fainter, until it was indiscernible from all the other stars.
 
At that point we got back in the car and continued on our way.
 
One interesting point is that from the point where that craft was to the runways of McGuire AFB is only a couple of miles. Back in 1972 the area of the jersey pines we were in had many Cold War installations,Nike missile installations, the Space Track “ golf Ball” and others. There had been a nuclear warhead on a missile that had caught fire and contaminated a very large area with plutonium, the active air base was there as well. Plenty to look at if you were interested In the military capability of a civilisation.
 
For the rest of our lives whenever either of the three of us met, right up to the ends of their lives, we always said ” hey remember the flying saucer”. I have only told this story to four or five others over the years. The blank stares or that look like you are some kind of nutter shut me down.
 
Any way there you have it. I wish you luck with your build, and YES please post a video when it is complete, and send me a link.
 
Thanks again,
Jenny




Jennifer Edwards

Bye Bye

WordPress has increased their annual fees by another 30%.  under the guise of a “domain name” fee.

Sorry guys and gals, but I am not wearing it.

Thankyou for following.  And a big thank you  for those who have commented or liked my posts.

But I am not forking out another 30% per year, on top of a similar increase a year or so ago.  They are just, fucking, greedy.  too expensive.


.

So bye!    ….John.

p.s.  when the Trevithick dredger engine is running on steam I will post a video on YouTube and maybe Facebook.

pps.  If you want to visit old johnsmachines.com posts, I believe that you will be able to open them by including “wordpress” before the johnsmachines.com

ppps.  if you think that this stinks, don’t tell me.  Tell WordPress.

pppps.  my email is jviggers@iinet.net.au

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine- the stays

 

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The stays appear simple but they took several hours to make and adjust.

When I arrived at my workshop today I discovered that someone had attempted to steal the Toyota Landcruiser tray which I leave parked there.   A window had been smashed, the doors were unlocked, and the cowling over the steering column had been removed and broken. (presumably in an attempt to access wires to start it.)  The driver’s door lock showed signs of being jemmied.   The ignition lock also showed signs of being forced.  The thief must have been an amateur, unable to get the vehicle started.

The police arrived soon after being telephoned.

Fortunately the vehicle is drivable, but repairs are required.  I am relieved that it was not actually stolen.  The police told me that these vehicles are in demand by thieves.  They are built like tanks, and useful in ram raid thefts.

So the dredger engine will be put aside while I install video cameras at my workshop.

(I have deleted a paragraph here.  It was written with exaggeration caused by anger.)

After the police left, I made and installed the stays which are visible in the photos.

 

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The lower end of the stays attach to the boiler flat plate end.

 

 

 

More Antarctic Weird – 2

Harking back to the Google Earth photos which I posted on Jan 6 2018.  “More Weird Stuff”.   The photo was from 1999 satellite imagery.  Why am I so obsessed with this?  I am not sure.  Please read on.

 

Antarctica 6 Jan 2018 #2

This 21x7km black rectangular shape/object in Antarctica.  With the white reflections? white-out?.  And the track(?) leading from the south -east.     I occasionally re-open Google Earth Pro to look at it, and wonder what it was.  I have scanned all over Antarctica, and have never seen anything else, remotely like this.

Google Earth Pro has a feature which allows the viewer to scan back and forth over the years to see how a site changes.  Guess what.  The above shape does not show up on the yearly images even 1999. 

Then in the 2006 imagery I noticed a tiny black dot on my screen, near to where the big black rectangle was previously.  The tiny black dot would not brush off my screen, so I zoomed in.  This is what appeared.

 

Screen Shot 2018-11-01 at 11.07.48 am

That black dot is sited in a white rectangle which measures 300m x 150m.  A pixellated natural feature I thought.  But scanning other areas of Antarctica does not show any pixellation anything like this.

 

Then I searched the vicinity.  And found dozens and dozens of similar objects.  Nearly all 300m long, and either 150 or 200m wide.  All with a central black area.  All with smaller grey shapes in the white areas.  Scattered around an area of 300 x 300 kilometers (~200 x 200 miles).  Some areas clearer than others, probably due to atmospheric conditions.  I started to count them, but stopped at 100.  Most of them were oriented close to North-South.

They only appear in the years 2004 to 2007, and they are stationary.  2006 is the clearest.

Then recently, I purchased a photo editor, and played around with settings on some of the screen shots which I had taken of the “objects”.

 

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Unedited Google Earth photo.  The coordinates are there if you want to check for yourself.  The white rectangle surrounding the black area is different from the surrounding snow-ice.

 

 

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Defogging turned up, with compensation

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Defogging turned up, without compensation.

 

These do NOT look like pixellated natural features.

There are too many, and too big to be man-made.

And they are scattered around the area of the 1999 image of the  26km x 7km black rectangle.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT THEY ARE?

p.s. The parallel lines which I puzzled about previously are probably artifacts arising from the Landsat photography.  Thanks to reader Brendan for the technical article which lists various anomalies in pictures which are stitched together from multiple passes of the satellite.   Still no explanation for the 300m x 150m rectangles shown in this post.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine Progress

First day of summer in southern Australia today.  And it was very warm and windy.  Keeping my eyes open for snakes, but none seen.

I was pondering how to attach the crankwebs to the flywheel.  I had decided that I would not silver solder them together, because the heat would likely distort the thin flywheel.  And pressing them was not feasible because I had machined them to a sliding fit.  Whatever method was used, I wanted it to be reversible i.e. future disassembly possible.  So, in the end, I used small brass screws which will not be visible when the engine is painted.

 

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countersunk brass screws holding the assembly together.

 

I made 2 more U shaped bearing retainers to fit on the ends of the connecting rods (same as shown in last post).

Then made 2 shafts which will be attached to the cross head bar, to join to the con rods.  These are made from silver steel.

 

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The concave end had a radius of 10mm.  Fortunately, I had a 20mm end mill which worked well to produce the curve.  A bit of finishing required for these parts.  I will probably run them for a while in my gemstone tumbler to knock off the sharp edges and polish them.

 

 

 

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They will be pinned in place at the ends of the cross head bar.

 

Woodworking for the Steam Engine

The connecting rods on the Trevithick dredger engine were wooden, presumably to save weight.  I used to do a lot of woodworking and still have radial arm saw, bandsaw, thicknesser and planer, etc, and too many scraps of wood and left overs from previous furniture projects.

The con rods are 16x10mm and about 320mm long.  Lignum vitae was recommended by Tubal Cain, and “hard wood” by Julius deWaal.  I looked through my piles of offcuts, and eventually settled on West Australian Jarrah.

 

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There are 2 con rods, but I cut enough sticks for 4, just in case.  One was immediately rejected due to a split.

Jarrah is hard, remains stable during machining, is dark and becomes darker with aging, and is relatively resistant to rotting and warping with water.  In Oz it is often used for outdoor decking.  The figuring tends to be quite wavy rather than straight, so very sharp tooling is required to avoid teatouts.

 

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Using a shell end milling cutter to make the end rebates.  It is really sharp and heavy, and quite scary to handle.  But does leave a beautiful finish.

I try to avoid machining wood on my metalworking machines.  The dust gets everywhere, and if not removed attracts moisture, and rust.

But, the metalworking machines are far more accurate, so that is what I used after the initial roughing cuts.

Next was the metal U shaped metal strips to hold the bearings at each end.  I chose brass, because I had some 2mm sheet, which was the specified thickness, and I imagined that it would be easier to machine and bend than steel.

 

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This is my bender, with a test strip of annealed brass.  I made this bender last year to bend copper pipe, and my advisor, Stuart, suggested using it to bend the brass ends for the Trevithick.  So I turned up some aluminium cylinders and a brass pusher to the appropriate diameter, leaving a 2mm gap for the brass strip.

 

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Worked like a charm.

 

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I will make the bearings before I trim the U strip to final length.

So that all went very nicely.

Hang on.  There are 2 connecting rods, with 2 ends each.  I need FOUR U pieces, not TWO.  Shit.

No time to make the other 2 today.  Got to get home to clean up before visiting my hearing specialist.  Should see a brain specialist too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dredger Engine- Crankweb and Firebox Door

Power is transmitted from the dredger engine to a cog on the crankshaft which is held in place with a crank-web.  It is similar to the crank-webs which secure the flywheel.  Similar, but more complex and more difficult to make.

 

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More finishing required, but the basic shape is done.  Note the 2º wedges securing the bearing housing and the oil tube.

 

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The firebox door is shaped.  Hinge, catch and latch coming soon.  The wooden front support is also seen.

The engine is really taking shape.  I am looking forward to seeing it run.

 

 

Scale Trevithick Dredger Engine- the Supports, and crank-webs.

Some photos of progress.  I have been busy, but the results are not particularly photogenic.

The support under the chimney end was in the plans as this:

Trevithick front support.jpg

…and many models of the dredger engine are made along these lines.

…but the rescued Trevithick engine in the London Science Museum is different..

LSM Dredger.jpg

The shape of the front support is appealing, but it is unlikely to be original.

….and this is the drawing of the dredger engine from the Rees Cyclopaedia of 1819..

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Look.  The front support is a block of wood!  And the rear support is quite open, showing most of the mainshaft.

The Rees drawing was made at a time when many Trevithick engines were operating, and it is likely that the drawing is representing an actual engine.  So that is what I have based my scale engine supports on.

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This is the rear support for my engine.  5mm thick steel, silver soldered.  Quite a bit of tidying up to come.  And you can see the wedges which hold the bearing housings in position.  The bushes are bronze.  And the vertical tubes just visible are oilers.

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The rear support before I milled out the middle section.  It was supposed to be 5mm mild steel, but the carbide end mill became red hot while plowing through, then broke.  Something really hard encountered there!

Then the bearing housings were made, and the main bearing bushes.  Straight forward machining.  Inserted the mainshaft (12mm silver steel).

The flywheel had been previously water jetted from 6mm steel plate.

flywheel flat

I chose water jetting in preference to laser cutting, in order to minimise heat distortion of the rather thin piece of steel.  Even so, it required some cold pressing to flatten it.  No olive oil appeared.

Then made the crankwebs.

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CNC milled from a chunk of brass.

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The crank webs sitting in position.  I have not yet decided how to fasten them.  Soldering is specified by Tubal Cain, pressing by deWaal.  I will probably use Loctite and a taper pin.

Next are the wooden connecting rods, and the driving spur gear.

Still thinking about the stand.  Wooden box? open metal structure similar to my beam engine? masonary block?  Wait and see.

Note that there is now an option to “like” these ramblings, at the end of each post.  Up to you the reader of course, but a tick of approval would be nice.  Your comments are always appreciated.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine Guide Bars

I was discussing the guide bars with a very experienced modeller, and he finished with some advice….  “make them either very accurately, or very sloppy, otherwise you will have problems!”

The guide bars and cross-head

Well, I decided to shoot for “very accurately”.

I made the cross-head bar, and silver soldered it together.

All seemed good.  Just the guide bar bushes to be made and Loctited into position.  After a soak in sulphuric acid and tidy up.

So I made the bronze bushes, drilled them in the lathe to 9.5mm, then reamed them to 10mm.  Or so I thought.

But when I fitted them to the 10mm guide rails, they were very, very sloppy.   Checked the guide rail diameter… 9.99mm.  Checked the reamer 10.07mm!!  Chinese reamer.

So I searched my reamers and found 2 more.  Another Chinese one measured 10.04mm.  Another was a Sutton, made in Australia.  It measured 10.00mm.  I reamed a test piece, which fitted the guide posts perfectly.   So which reamer did I use?   Guess.

I made some more bushes and Loctited them to the cross-head.  Then drilled and reamed them, carefully, accurately.  This time the fit on the guide bars was snug, perfect.

Is there a point to be made here?  You better believe it.

Trevithick Dredger Engine Guide Bars and Crosshead

 

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As you can see from the photo, I have made the vertical guides, the curved top bar and the crosshead.

 

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The curved bar was bent in the motorised ring roller which I made years ago.  Bending 3.2mm steel was easy.  I have bent steel bar up to 10mm thick in this machine.

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Parts of the guide bar.  2mm thick.  I confess that these were CNC’d.

 

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A few more parts required for the crosshead, but a test fit was quite good.  It is just pushed together at this stage.

 

 

 

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine- Valves

No workshop posts for a while because I have been making parts for the internals of the engine, and when installed they are not very photogenic.

Since the last post I have made the piston, piston rod and installed soft packing to seal the piston, made the valves and valve handles..

 

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Stainless steel piston rod, bronze 20mm dia piston, and soft packing inserted into the machined groove.

Also made the throttle valve and steam direction valve.

 

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This was the third attempt at making a steam valve.  I went slightly undersized with the first, totally buggered the O ring groove on the second, but the third one looks OK.

 

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Good one (I hope) on the left, and destroyed one on the right.  The lathe tool bit into the bronze.

 

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From left to right.  The bush, the undersize, the buggered, and the OK I hope.  and the plans.

And after all of that, and also making the throttle valve, I discovered a mistake in the plans.  A 1mm discrepancy, which I suspect was an arithmetic mistake on the part of the plan maker.  I decided to modify the valves, bush and valve block rather than remake the valves.

 

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I machined 1mm off the faces shown in the photo, then spent some time prettying it up.  Then took 1mm off the valve lengths, and the valve bush.

 

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This is what it looks like now.  All fixed.  Waiting for Viton O rings to arrive.  Looks OK IMO.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Home Invasion

We had just finished dinner and I was gathering the dishes for washing, when suddenly, very noisily, the broom cupboard door burst open, and two possums fell into our kitchen-living room area.

Possums are in most Australian roof spaces.  They are protected by law.  Not that that would make any difference to my Dr. Doolittle wife…. she actively feeds them, and they come to the broom cupboard from somewhere in the attic space, when she calls them.

But this is the first time that they have entered our living space while we were present.  I suspect that they were having a fight and fell against the broom cupboard door, then fell onto our kitchen floor.

Once before, when we away on holidays, they found their way into our pantry.  Obviously, they thought that they had gone to possum heaven, because every cardboard package had been ripped open and the nice contents were eaten.  The less nice ones were on the floor!

So why do we encourage them?  Normally they are shy and cute and timid.  They have babies.  And they keep stranger possums out of our attic, which is their territory.  And they are not dangerous.  And they are interesting.  That’s why.

So I took a video for a few minutes.  One eventually ran out of the open back door.  I decided to leave the room, because they are a bit more nervous about me, and I thought that my wife would have a better chance of coaxing them outside.

Enjoy the uncut, uncensored videos.

 

Error
This video doesn’t exist

The possums are a bit nervous about me, so I went to bed, leaving my wife to cope with the problem.  I think that she sat there with the outside door open until about 2:30am.  The recalcitrant possum had climbed up the curtains onto a pelmet, and would not come down, despite tempting titbits from my wife.  At 2:30am she came to bed and left the outside door open.

I was the first one out of bed at about 7am.  No sign of any possums, even up on the pelmets.  But he/she/it had been all over the kitchen living room TV area, shitting at every step.   There was a pile of liquid crap on the pelmet.  Poor thing must have been really anxious.  I decided that Dr Doolittle could clean it up.

 

 

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine….progress

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Finishing bits on the engine assembly.  The stuffing box, the gland, and a threaded plug in the throttle cylinder.  Throttle valve, stem direction valve,  piston and piston rod next.

Antarctic Weird.

Some of you might remember the Google Earth photos which I posted on Jan 6 2018.  “More Weird Stuff”.   The photo was from 1999 imagery.

Antarctica 6 Jan 2018 #2

This 21x7km black rectangular shape/object in Antarctica.  With the white reflections? white-out?.  And the track(?) leading from the south -east.   The satellite image was taken in 1999.  And I occasionally re-open Google Earth Pro to look at it, and wonder what it was.

Well guess what.  It has disappeared off Google Earth.   Nowhere to be seen.  Replaced with featureless white.

Suspicions aroused, I turned on the feature of Google Earth which allows the viewer to scan back and forth over the years.   I had place-marked the spot so I knew that I was in the correct place.  The “staircase” away to the north is still there.

While scanning the “spot” from December 2006, I noticed some odd lines.  Odd in that they were exactly parallel, exactly 1 km apart (you can measure things in Google Earth), and varying lengths, covering 1000’s of square kilometers.  then I noticed a little black dot on the computer screen.  It would not brush off.  Zooming in, it seemed to have a geometric shape, not at all like a natural feature, even pixellated.

Screen Shot 2018-11-01 at 11.02.40 am.png

I zoomed in and out.  If you look carefully (or better still, check this out on Google Earth yourself), you will see a white rectangular shape about 300m x 150m, irregular outline but quite angular and geometric, a black central shape, and a number of smaller grey shapes.  It is aligned almost exactly north-south.  It is bigger than an aircraft carrier.   Buildings?   Artifact?  Natural feature pixellated?

Buildings?   Well it is there, but whited out in the images Dec 2004 and 2005 but not after Dec 2006.

Artifact?  I thought maybe.  Then I looked around the vicinity.

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Every one of those placemarks pinned by me, represents a similar but not identical object.  Some are clearer than the first one which I saw, particularly in the group under the “Leopold and Astrid Coast” label.  There are at least as many again, less clear, which I did not mark.

If you zoom into the above photo you will get the Google Earth co-ordinates to check this out for yourself.   Make sure that you bring up the December 2006 images.  The centre of the above cluster is the location my original “More Weird Stuff” object, but it is nowhere to be seen after 1999.

I have scanned around the rest of Antarctica and I cannot find anything else remotely like this.  Nor is there anything like this in other years/dates.

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So, what do you think?  The images show 50-100 of these objects.  It appears to me that someone might have attempted to disguise the objects in the images by applying the thick parallel lines.

I have my own theory, but I will keep my ideas to myself.  For the moment…

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Soldering the Trevithick Dedger Engine

That is soldering.  Not soddering.

 

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These are the engine cylinder, valve chest, steam pipe (on the side of the cylinder), and flanges, pushed together.  I took this photo, because never again will these bronze parts look so pristine. 

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Firstly, a thorough soak in degreaser, then rinsed in water.

 

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Then the steam transfer tube was wired into position.   All joins were fluxed, then silver soldered.   Then a soak in sulphuric acid and a water rinse.  

 

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The 20mm bore still accepted a 20mm diameter silver steel rod (i.e. no significant distortion from the heat), so the rod was super glued in place, and used to turn the flanges flat and perpendicular to the bore.

 

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The assembly was heated to release the super glue.

 

 

 

 

 

Trevithick Dredger. A start on the Engine.

Some photos of progress on the Trevithick Dredger engine.  I am still making components for the engine, which is a single cylinder, double acting steam engine.  The valves and throttle are cylindrical, which is the method used by Trevithick over 200 years ago.

 

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From the left…  the cylinder, with rectangular steam ports and bottom cap; flanges; steam tube.  The steam tube was bronze rod which was OD turned, then drilled, then split longitudinally, then bevelled so that it fits snugly to the outside of the cylinder.  Tricky machining, done with a steel plug to avoid squashing the part in the milling vise.    Some of the 5mm holes in the large flange should have been threaded.  Error in the plans.  Now considering whether to remake the flange or thread the holes 6mm and make some stainless steel stepped studs.  Probably the studs…

 

 

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Components pressed together.  Later they will be silver soldered.

 

 

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The valve chest was made from a chunk of bronze, which was first squared up…

 

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Then marked out..

 

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After preliminary drilling and reaming, the block was sawn to produce the truncated cylindrical hole.  (any better suggestions to describe the shape?)

 

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The steam chest will contain the cylindrical valves for throttle and steam opening-closing and direction.  A complex item.  Quite a few hours of nutting out and machining.  Not quite finished.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydrostatic Trevithick Boiler Test

This is a video showing how I performed the hydrostatic test on the boiler.

The engine is currently being made, but not at the time of the video.

The test is to hold water at double the working pressure of the boiler, for 20-30 minutes, checking for bulging or distortion of any of the components, and any significant leaks.  Any leaks would need to be fixed, but for the boiler certification, as long as the pressure can be maintained for the duration of test, that is OK.

The working pressure of this boiler will be 50psi, but the minimum pressure in the AMBSC code is 60psi, so the hydrostatic test will be done at 120psi.   As you will see in the video, the pressure reached 140psi at times.

In fact, the AMBSC code is formulated in terms of materials and design to cope with 8 times the working pressure, so the safety margin is generous.

The video is taken over 20 minutes.  I ran the actual test for over an hour.

I am afraid that my very messy bench and workshop are evident in the video.  No apologies.  That is just the way that I work.

 

Model Engines on Steam

It is Geelong Show time again.  It is actually titled the Royal Geelong Show, but having had more than a gutful of royal non-entities visitors being adored by unthinking cringers, flocking around Harry and Meaghan Kardashian, Windsor, and being a committed republican, I refuse to bother with the “Royal” handle.  (they are probably very nice people, I just cannot stomach the hoo-ha).

More importantly, it gives us steam junkies a chance to run our small engines on real hot steam.

For a treat, I am sharing four short clips taken today.

The first is a small beam engine, made by Swen Pettig.

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The next two engines you have probably seen before.  My beam engine, and the triple expansion engine.

The small engine to the right is a Stirling engine which is running on the heat from the exhausted steam from the beam engine.

The triple is leaking a bit more than it should, although it is running amazingly smoothly on 25-30 psi.  The valve glands need repacking.

And finally, a model IC engine, the really odd Atkinson.  A 100+ year old design.  2 stroke. Made by Rudi vanderElst

 

Hydrostatic Boiler Testing

The boiler on the model Trevithick Dredger Engine was ready, I thought, for the next boiler inspection.

So far the boiler inspector has approved:

  1. The plans
  2. The boiler materials
  3. The machined materials
  4. The results of the first bronze brazing session
  5. The results of the first silver soldering session

Next was the hydrostatic test of the assembled boiler components.  This is a test which involves pumping water into the boiler, and holding it there for 20-30 minutes, at double the maximum operating pressure.

I intend to operate the boiler at a maximum of 50psi, but the minimum in the AMBSC code is 60 psi, so the test will be done at 120psi.

So I assembled the boiler, with a gasket under the big flat flanged end, and tested it in my workshop.  It pumped up OK to 120-140psi, but there were several leaks.  Most of the leaks were fixed fairly easily with teflon tape, but there was a persistent ooze of water from the big flat end gasket.  It was not holding pressure.

Next step, a thicker gasket.  Some improvement, but not enough.  I was still noting a drop of water every 3-4 seconds.

Next step, gasket goo on the gasket.  Maybe some further improvement, but still not enough.

OK, what next?  Maybe the big flange, or the big flat end plate was not  perfectly flat?  So an hour or so, rubbing the flange on 600 grit wet and dry on a flat plate.  There did appear to be some distortion.  The plate had been carefully lathe turned, but maybe the heat from the brazing caused some distortion.   A further reassembly then a test still showed more oozing than I was happy about.

Finally the penny dropped!

The flange was held in place by 24 stainless steel threaded rods with square nuts holding the flat plate in place.  Some of the holes in the flat plate had evidence of the threaded rod in the form of threading marks made by the threaded rod.  These were acting like threaded holes rather than relief holes.   So I drilled them all by a further 0.5mm.   Problem solved!

Pressure held to 140-160psi, with very slow pressure drop.  The drop was caused by slight ooze from the pressure pump taped joins.  See the videos.  The occasional drip which appears in the video is coming from the leak in the pump delivery hose.

So now back to the boiler inspector….

 

Why I Don’t Sweep Up Swarf.

Yesterday I spent some time spreading metal swarf around my workshop floor.

Why?

The weather is warming up as we enter spring in Australia.

My workshop is on a farm, and we have tiger snakes.  The authorities have warned us to expect more snakes than usual, due to the particular weather conditions this year.  I saw 2 snakes on the road leading to the farm.  And my neighbour visited me to inform me that he had spotted a 2 meter long, fat tiger disappearing into the freestone wall at the front of my property.   That is a very big tiger, even allowing for a bit of exaggeration!  Even baby tigers can kill.

And in recent years I have encountered tigers twice – IN my workshop.  Both times were after I had swept the floor.

So now, I spread the sharpest, nastiest swarf that I can find, all over the workshop floor.  To make the snakes feel unwelcome.  So far, so good this season.

Dredger Engine Bling

Getting ready for an exhibition tomorrow.  The organisers want “works in progress” so I am taking the dredger engine.  In its present state it is more a dredger boiler than an engine, but I doubt that anyone will mind.

IMG_7934.JPGSo I spent the day inserting a lot of square nuts on stainless steel studs, and bolting on some valves.   Looks quite interesting?   The stainless nuts came from China and were inexpensive.  A pity to paint them black.

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The boiler is almost ready for pressure testing.  All of the parts are made, but sealant needs to be applied to the threads and joins, and possibly some gaskets.  I will do a hydrostatic test to 120psi, fix any leaks, then take it to the boiler inspector.  I am aiming to have it certified for 60psi, but will probably run it at maximum 50psi.

I have made the engine cylinder and the bronze cap which seals the vertical tube.  Looking forward to getting stuck into the engine.

Trevithick Dredger Engine. Finishing the flat end plate.

Today I brazed the inspection hatch to the flat end plate.  I did have some qualms about using the shape which I hade made, because it is quite round, whereas the example in The London Science Museum is more elliptical with one edge shaved off, and bolts which are irregularly placed around the perimeter.  But it is done now.  I admit that I was influenced by reactions from club members who were complimentary about the hatch which I had made, picking it out for special mention when I took it to yesterdays meeting.  And if I do not like it later on, I can remove the surface and make another one, more wonky like the original.

 

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The inspection hatch is ready to be brazed into position, and I have made a ring to attach the firebox door and surround.  The blowdown valve is very close and I had to grind a recess.

Before brazing I made a firebox door and surround, and bolted it to the end plate.

 

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The surround bolts to the end plate, through the ring.  Here setting them up for drilling and tapping the M2 bolts.  That is an adjustable parallel, making sure that the door surround is horizontal.  Being glued to hold the position for drilling and tapping.

 

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Hand tapping the 2mm bolt holes.  I drilled them after glueing the surround to the end plate with SuperGlue in the previous picture.   Then heated it to release the glue.  Did not break the tap, but I was careful to avoid touching the copper, and used tapping lubricant.

 

 

The door is cut out, but yet to make the hinge, catch and latch.

 

And just to remind you what I initially made, according to the Cain/deWaal plans…

 

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These parts are now in the “failures” drawer.  Or should it be the “I changed my mind” drawer.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine- soldering the big boiler flange.

Today I soldered the large flange which holds the flat end plate, to the boiler shell.  The flange is a large piece of LG2 bronze, but it is quite delicate because the centre is removed, leaving only the rim.

Here is a photo of the flange in position, fluxed, and ready to apply heat and silver.

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But before this step I made a special tool.  Can you guess its purpose?

 

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It is a disk of 12mm thick steel with a steel bar bolted to the surface.   A hint….  the disk diameter is slightly less than the internal diameter of the boiler shell.

 

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Here is the tool in use.  With all of the heat from yesterday’s brazing, the boiler shell had distorted slightly, and the flange to be soldered was a bit tight in places.  So I identified the tight spots, placed the tool against the tight spot, and gave the bar a whack with a hammer, slightly expanding the tight spots.   After this, the flange dropped into position easily and nicely.

 

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After soldering the flange.  No video I’m afraid.  Not enough hands.   To minimise the risk of the flange distorting with the soldering heat, I rested it on a plate of flat steel during the soldering.   Note the different shape of the forge for this braze.   

 

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And after the brazing, the end plate was nice and square.

 

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Square in both directions.

 

 

 

 

 

Trevithick dredger engine – second silver soldering session.

Soldered the bushes, the boiler supports, and the engine support.  Did not quite have time to tackle the boiler main end flange.

 

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The LG2 bronze bushes were made yesterday, and the holes were prepared.  Today I fluxed them and silver soldered.  45% silver, cadmium free.

 

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After soldering, and before the sulphuric acid soak.  The Hebel blocks are ideal for setting up the forge area to a particular size and shape.

 

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The boiler is upside down in this photo.  I have just soldered the engine support.  Looks messy doesn’t it.  But it looks much neater after the acid soak.  And the splodges will vanish after eventual painting.   I used the bolt in the bush to get the support level and straight, while soldering.

 

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Then the boiler supports were soldered, and the unit was dipped in 20% sulphuric acid for 15 minutes, after slow cooling.  Note the Plimsoll line, which was the depth of the acid.  I was unsatisfied with the alignment of that boiler support, so I reheated it and tapped it into a better position.  If it leaks steam, I might need to touch it up, but at least it is properly positioned.

 

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At the end of this session.  The big flange is just sitting there, waiting for soldering in the next session.

 

 

Actually, this was not the first brazing session.  It was the third.  I had previously silver soldered the firetube.  And if you have been watching this build you might recall that I bronze brazed the domed boiler end and the boiler wrapper, and the vertical cylinder into the domed boiler end.  Despite the copper reaching red heat during today’s session of silver soldering, the bronze joins remained intact.  Bronze has a higher melting temperature than silver solder.  Which was one reason I did the bronze brazing first.

 

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine Boiler Bushes

 

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Drilled previously, with wooden plug to prevent boiler deformation

 

 

 

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Bushes made, but one is a bit tight, so using the Dremel to make it a loose fit, in preparation for silver brazing.

 

 

 

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That is about right.  Roughly 3-5 thou gap.

 

 

 

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The middle bush and the right hand one are additions to the Trevithick concept.  The middle one is a banjo fitting which will eventually connect to a modern pressure gauge… a boiler inspector requirement.   The big one is a water filler point.

 

 

 

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All plugged up, ready for silver brazing then a boiler inspector hydrostatic test.  The thread which is visible is blind.  It does not communicate with the boiler cavity.

Ready for silver brazing in a day or two.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine Progress

Made the cylinder, boiler bushes, and engine supports today.

 

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The cylinder is LG2 bronze.  Drilled and reamed the 20mm bore, turned the outside diameter between centres, then milled the rectangular steam inlets at the ends.  The inlets were actually milled then the square corners were filed.

The boiler bushes are also LG2 bronze.  Straightforward turning.  Not quite finished.

 

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The cylinder support looks simple but it is more complex than it looks.  The middle is LG2 bronze, but I did not have a large enough piece of bronze, so the wings are brass.  The join is bronze brazed, so it will not come apart when it is silver brazed to the boiler.  The angled supports are a tight press fit into the wings.

 

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Next I will silver solder all of the joins.  They are just sitting in place in this photo.

 

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine – what was the original design? -2

Further reading and exploring web sites, email to London Science Museum (LSM), asking opinions of boiler experts.  Even considering a quick trip to London. (from Oz).

What I have learned is interesting.

Richard Trevithick did not manufacture any of the several hundred of his high-pressure engines.  The ideas and designs were his, but the engines were manufactured in different sites and by different makers.  The designs changed with time and as new ideas presented themselves to the brilliant mind of Trevithick.  And each manufacturer put their own stamp on the designs.

For example, look at the following pictures of the boiler flat end plate.  One is in two pieces, riveted together.  The other is a casting, and the flanges for the inspection hatch and the chimney, and probably the blowdown valve orifice, are almost certainly part of the end plate casting.  The firebox looks newish, slipped inside the original end plate casting.  I guess that the original firebox had burnt out, but was probably similarly held in place.   If any Brit readers can pop into the LSM and check this out I would be very grateful.

Trevithick boiler shell

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The model which I am making, and dithering over the end plate design, is based on the reconstructed engine in the London Science Museum.  I intend to remove the aspects which are obviously Victorian in origin, and replace those with parts that I think will be closer to the Trevithick era designs.

Unfortunately, I have already made some of those parts, so my redesign is a bit compromised, unless I scrap them.  Which I do not intend to do.

So this is my redesign of the end plate.  Not quite LSM.  And not quite Tubal Cain/deWaal Not quite, but will have to be close enough.  The red lines are already machined so I am stuck with them.  14 drilled and tapped holes have been filled.  The bronze inspection hatch/plug has been made, but with less standout than shown in the lateral view.

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As an aside, while pondering the end plate, I have made a start on the engine itself.  The cylinder has been roughed out, and will be finished in my next workshop session.  Cain specified brass, deWaal specified bronze.  So I have compromised, and have used an unknown brass/bronze/copperish lump of workshop metal.  It is certainly hard, as assessed by filing.  Photo next post.

New Spindle Motor for the Boxford 125TCL CNC lathe.

Reader Ben asked about the spindle motor replacement on the Boxford.   This is a small CNC lathe, and was often used for teaching in secondary schools in Australia.  Mine was made in 1985, and I replaced the electronics a few years back because they were obsolete and not functioning.  The mechanicals of the lathe were beautifully made and in excellent condition.  I did replace the ball screws, but in retrospect, that was probably unnecessary.   I also installed new and bigger axis stepper motors.

I was still getting some unreliable results, despite the the upgrades, and wondered whether the spindle motor was lacking power.  I was taking lighter cuts to try and cope but clearly a new spindle motor was required.

The space that the motor occupies is fairly tight, and initial searches for a suitable replacement were fruitless.  The new  ClearPath motors looked promising, but enquiries to the manufacturer indicated that the required power and rpm’s were not available.  Then my expert friend (or should that be “friend who is an expert”?), spotted the Ebay ad below, and bought and succesfully installed the servo motor in his 125TCL, so I did likewise.  I am afraid that the electronic aspects remain a mystery to me, so I cannot help with those.  It is a 0.75kW motor, substantially more powerful than the original, but very compact.

 

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Do an Ebay search on the code on the controller.  I paid $AUD339 but it is now plus postage and GST, so close to $AUD400

 

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The new spindle motor and servo controller

 

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A new motor pulley was required.  There is still a high and low belt ratio available, but with the extra power and torque I never use the low ratio.  RPM range is 300-3200.

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This has been a very successful modification.

Many thanks to Stuart Tankard for his generosity in time, expertise and advice in getting it going.

 

 

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine. What was the original design?

As I am progressing with building the 1:8 model of the dredger engine, I am experiencing doubts about the authenticity of the design by Tubal Cain 1985, and redrawn by Julius DeWaal 2016.  Those plans are based on the engine in the London Science Museum, which we know was incomplete when found in a scrap yard (?) and reconstructed in 1886.  There are no known or published original plans.

Look at the following photographs.  The first two are boiler components labelled as Trevithick, although incomplete, appear to be unmodified.

The following drawing comes from Rees’s Cyclopaedia, published first in 1819, when many of the engines would have been operating, and given the quality of the drawing, is likely to be fairly accurate.

Finally, the engine in the London Science Museum, which shows some Victorian era features which are highly unlikely to be as Trevithick designed them.

 

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The firebox and firetube, riveted to the end plate.  Note the inspection hatch has no rivet or bolt holes.  How would the hatch have been attached?  

 

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Showing the end plate bolted to the cast iron boiler shell.  Interestingly, the penetrations are mirror image of the LSM engine.  Does anyone know where this boiler is currently located?  And why are there no rivet or bolt holes around the inspection opening?

 

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Drawing from circa 1819.  Note 1. the wooden support at the chimney end of the boiler, 2. the flange for the chimney attaches directly to the end plate, as does the inspection hatch and the firebox door.  None of these protrude beyond the end plate.

 

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This is the best photograph I know of from the reconstructed LSM engine.  There are multiple inconsistencies with the Rees drawings…

The inconsistencies which I note are:

  1. The support under the flat end is metal, not wood.  It is cast or fabricated, and curved.  Unlikely to be original.
  2. The rear support in the Rees drawing is metal which sits on wooden bearers.  Quite different shape from the Cain/deWaal plans.
  3. Some of the flywheel spokes have a moulding, some are plain.  I imagine that plain is more likely original.
  4. The connecting rods are bent at the top.  They are straight in the Rees drawing.
  5. There are no rivets or rivet holes around the firebox.  There appears to be a new cylindrical insert into the firebox. Unfortunately the Rees drawings do not show the firebox.   The firedoor hinges appear to be welded in position.  There are holes in the firedoor which could have been used for strap hinges, which would be more likely in use originally.  There is no provision for air intake control.  I wonder if Trevithick would have provided an adjustable flap?  I am told that some early Cornish boilers did not have any flap.
  6. The inspection hatch looks realistic.  But the hatch sits away from the end plate, presumably to permit access for the end plate to flange bolts.  Would Trevithick, I wonder, have designed such a complex setup?  Bearing in mind that every piece of iron or steel must be shaped in a forge by a blacksmith, then riveted or bolted into position, or cast iron, then bolted into position.   The rather irregular position and shape of the inspection plate and bolts looks authentic, but I have my doubts about whether the inspection hole itself is authentic.  Could this have been cut out later, when boiler repairs were required?

I have not looked closely at the engine details.  No doubt further inconsistencies will be apparent there.

So I am in a bit of a quandry.  Do I make the Cain/deWaal model, removing the obvious inconsistent features but including the dubious ones?  Or do I guess at what Trevithick would have designed, based on the technology which he had available?

Any opinions or thoughts/advice would be welcome.

 

 

 

 

Drilling holes into the Trevithick Boiler

Nothing much to add today.  I had only an hour in the workshop.  But here is a photo.

 

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The wooden plug is to prevent squashing the boiler shell in the vise.  Note my ambidexterity regarding metric and imperial dimensions.  

And as a matter of interest, a stranger turned up at our working bee in the exhibition cage, with 2 models about which he wanted some advice.   The models are beautifully made, and we hope that the stranger will join our little club.

 

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A Stuart Turner 5A with Stephenson’s link reversing mechanism.

 

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And I could hardly believe my eyes when I saw his 5″ boiler.  It is made to the plans upon which I based my 6″ boiler!

He inherited the models from a relative.  Lucky!

 

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine- First silver soldering session

Today I fitted the chimney right angle piece, drilled and soldered on its flange, and drilled the end plate to accept the flange.  Then I CNC drilled the big bronze end plate to accept the flange.

 

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The angle piece is a commercially available plumbing part.  The stainless steel square nuts came from China.  Joins are silver soldered.  In a departure from the Tubal Cain/Julius deWaal plans, I decided to attach the chimney flange directly to the flat end plate.  I reckon that’s what would have been done in 1806, and it is what shows in the 1820 Rees Encyclopaedia drawing.   Note the unwanted threaded holes, now filled with stainless steel threaded rod.

Then I carefully positioned the bronze end plate, the firebox and the firetube, and silver soldered them together.

 

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The parts are fluxed and pushed together, ready to apply some serious heat and expensive silver.

 

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Not pretty, but I am happy with the silver joins.  Minimal retouching required.

Next, the inspection hatch will be soldered to fill the rectangular hole.

Then the main bronze flange will be permanently attached to the boiler shell.  I intend to silver solder it, but considering bronze brazing.

 

 

 

Back to the Trevithick Dredger Engine

The 6″ vertical boiler is virtually completed.  Well, actually, I still have to make a Duplex steam pump, fit a steam injector, make a steam delivery manifold, paint some bits….  but yeah, emotionally, for me it is finished.   I will get back to those bits as the mood takes me.

So I have picked up the bits of the Trevithick steam dredger engine.  I will concentrate on the boiler, so I can get the AMBSC certification, then take a leisurely approach to the engine.  You know, 2 weeks to the boiler certification then another 4 weeks to finish the engine.  Or something like that.

 

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As you can see, I have redesigned the inspection hatch, and made the new version.  This is still not quite authentic, but it is much closer to the London Science Museum example.  The inspection hatch will be permanently closed, silver soldered shut.   And the wording reflects the fact that this is a model.  The model hatch is circular, whereas the LSE example is something between a circle and an ellipse.   Trouble is that we do not know what is original Trevithick and what was altered in 1870.   So I do not feel too guilty that I am guessing.

 

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Sorry about the poor focus.  I will retake this shot later.  You can read my new AMBSC ID number.  I do feel presumptuous writing my name the same size as Trevithick.

 

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I have marked the boiler perforations and will drill the holes then make the bronze bushes.

 

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A hi res photo of the dredger engine in the LSM.  You can see that the inspection hatch is something between a circle and an ellipse, not a rectangle. And that firedoor hinge is definitely sus.

 

 

 

 

 

How does a 6″ vertical boiler enhance house decorating?

When I was making the 6″ vertical boiler, SWMBO commented, “you needn’t think that is staying in the house!”

Well, she did say,  after the boiler bands went on “Hmm.  That looks quite interesting”.

So I took that as my invitation to put it somewhere….  in the house….

 

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This desk is just inside the front door.  The boiler sort of melts into the background, don’t you agree?   SWMBO has not spotted it , yet.

 

6″ Boiler Lagging -3, and back to the Dredger Engine.

The brass bands which secure the wooden lagging strips were installed.  5 bands were required to make sure that every piece of wood is held once the glue lets go.  The bands are only 4.75mm wide.   The bolts which apply the tension pass through small brass blocks which are silver soldered onto the ends of the strips.  (thanks Ben De Gabriel of EJ Winter for that tip!  And for the band material!)

 

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The boiler sitting on our kitchen table.  I will eventually paint the ashpit door assembly and angle plate at the base.

 

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The setup for holding the small blocks in position during silver soldering.  In order to not close up the gap between the small block and the brass strap, I centre punched the blocks, raising small dimples, which produced a thou or two of separation between the parts, allowing the molten silver solder to flow.  That silver solder wire is 0.5mm diameter. 

 

 

And back to the Trevithick Dredger Engine….

 

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The redesigned inspection hatch.  The bronze rectangular bit plugs the hole in the end plate.   I have plugged the unwanted 14 holes in the end plate, using stainless steel threaded rod.   And metal worker’s hands, cut, dirty, dry thick skin (SWMBO “don’t come near me!”).

 

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Four of the plugged holes around the firebox opening, 10 more under the inspection hatch (hidden), and the inspection hatch.  I will make the inspection hatch a little bit smaller.  It will be decorative, permanently attached and unable to be opened.  The dredger engine in the London Science Museum has the manufacturer’s name cast into the plate.  I am contemplating just inserting Richard Trevithick’s name and the date the first high pressure engine was made (1806).  There will need to be a separate area on the boiler wrapper the AMBSC identification.

 

 

 

 

Boiler Lagging -2

The Tasmanian Oak lagging looked too pale white to my eyes.  With use, steam, oil, dust, water, workshop grime and sunlight, it would have gradually acquired a well-used patina, but I prefer instant gratification.

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So after consulting my resident wood finish, artist, architect, expert, (SWMBO), I applied some wood-stain.

 

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Too orange, too patchy, she said.   And the white in the joins looked wrong.

Too orange, too patchy, and too much white showing.  “Put on some black boot polish” she directed.

So I did as I was told.

 

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With a boot polish brush…

 

 

 

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—and a toothbrush…

 

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… hmmmm.   I better clean her toothbrush before putting it back….

…(acknowledgments to Tubal Cain for using his old gag…)

 

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That’s the look I was wanting.

Now just waiting for the brass bands to arrive.

Ben De Gabriel from EJ Winter, Sydney, had sent me a remnant piece of banding to try, in my last consignment of parts from him.  It was perfect, but not enough for the 5 bands which I require.  So I rang him.  He thought that was the last of his stock of that particular size but he would check and let me know.  Sure enough, he returned the call, and he had found a couple more bits, and they would be just enough.  Old stock, a bit shop-soiled he said.  So I could have it for nothing!

Readers who have been with me for some time will know that I have bought 3 sets of engine castings and plans from EJ Winter.  The Bolton 7 horizontal Mill engine, the Bolton 12 Beam engine, and the Bolton 9 triple expansion engine.  A bit of very interesting news is that Ben is planning a new set of castings for the triple, using the lost wax casting technique, which gives a finish which should require machining on the mating surfaces only.  That sounds so good that I am almost tempted to make another triple.   Almost.   Some months until availability though.  (Hope that you don’t mind my premature announcement Ben.)

 

 

 

6″ Boiler. Lagging.

Lagging.  As in boiler insulation, not as in failing to keep up.  I have been working on the boiler for about 3 months, so I am actually happy with the progress.  And more than happy to have passed certification!

I decided to apply wooden lagging strips for the appearance and for ease of handling, rather than any minimal improvement in performance of the boiler.

After use, the boiler shell is too uncomfortably hot to handle, so there is a waiting time of 30 minutes or so to allow it to cool.  I am hoping that wooden lagging will reduce the waiting.

And wooden lagging will hide the splodges of silver solder around each boss and join.  And it looks the part IMO.

But how to attach it?  None of my books mentioned any method.  I presumed that the brass strips are the main method, and that is certainly so, on full-size boilers.   Then I found a short video on YouTube by Keith Appleton and I decided to copy his method.

The method uses Super Glue as a temporary securing method while positioning the strips, then applying brass strips to hold the wooden strips in place long term.  The boiler heat and expansion-contraction will result in the glue bond being temporary, and if the wood strips have to be removed later, for any reason, that will be possible. It also means that an insulating blanket cannot be inserted between the copper shell and the wooden strips, but I was not planning on using a blanket, so not a problem.

 

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The strips are 3x8x265mm.  I chose Tasmanian Oak which is actually an ash, because it is hard, fine grained, and I had some in old floor boards.  I cut the pieces to length a bit oversize, then ripped them to size on the bandsaw.  It is difficult to avoid fingers being close to the blade with small pieces like this, so I used a push stick.  I needed 65 pieces.  The blade teeth are a bit too coarse for this job, but I was too lazy to change it for a finer one.  Note the saw blade guide.  I did not like the one which was provided by Metabo, so I made that one.  Works well!

 

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Then I used a belt sander to remove most of the sawing marks.  The resulting thicknesses varied from 2.8 to 3.4mm but I hope that variation will not matter.

 

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Some hand sanding to remove wood fur.

 

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Hope that this will be enough pieces!

 

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The boiler feels out of place in all this woodworking rubbish.

 

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SWMBO was away, so I set up on the kitchen table.  Here deciding on the final length of the strips.

 

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Each piece is cut to length, then fitted into position.  Shaping the wood to fit around bosses and fittings is done with a small sanding drum in the Dremel.  It is a slow process.  Then each piece is glued into place, and held with rubber bands.

 

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It has taken about 4 hours to apply about 1/3 of the strips.  The Baileys was to keep me in an appropriate mindset.  I am looking at the slightly ragged top and bottom edge in the photo.  Looks a bit rustic and authentic, or just rough?   The wood will be darkened after oiling, and possibly staining.  And Tasmanian Oak darkens with exposure to light.

That was yesterday.  Today I hope to complete this job, but SWMBO is home, and not appreciating the dust and mess, so I am exiled to the outside.

I have realised that to secure all of the wooden pieces I will require 5 brass bands.  I do not want it to look too brassy, so I am ordering narrower strips than the 6mm material which I had previously bought.  I think that 4.75mm will be about right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VR-18-18

VR-18-18 Stands for Victoria, Geelong Society of Model and Experimental Engineers, 2018, 18th registered boiler for the club.

So this morning I fired up the boiler with the boiler inspector closely watching.  The gas was turned to maximum, and the water was showing full.

Steam appeared about 10 minutes later and the Sandberg safety valve started popping at 100 psi. Every couple of minutes the safety valve released and the pressure remained in the 97-100 psi range.  This went on for about 20-30 minutes.  All to the satisfaction of the inspector.

He was happy with the standard of the build, the pressure test, the accumulation test, and that all requirements had been met.

The boiler is now certified for 4 years.  There has been a change in protocol about which I was unaware.  The previous certification rule was for 12 months only, and retesting was required for a further 3 years.  So this new rule is much less time consuming for me and the inspector.  He is happy that before the next testing I will have a steam pump and a steam injector installed.

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I was so delighted with the result that I treated myself to a trip to the non ferrous metal supplier, and bought a selection of hex brass stock for the workshop.  When I returned to the workshop there were still a few hours of daylight, so I spent the time making the new inspection hatch for the Trevithick dredger engine.  Not quite finished, so no pics yet.

The next step for the boiler is to make and attach the wood lagging and to put on some paint.

New Skills in Retirement.

When I retired from my profession almost 4 years ago, I had an aim to become proficient at in CNC machining, and 3D CAD drawing.

I have definitely improved in those areas.  Trouble is, that as usual, the more that you learn, the more you realise that you need to know.

And in making some items, you encounter the need to learn skills entirely unexpected, like bronze brazing.

And all the while, your eyesight is deteriorating, your memory has gone somewhere (I forget where), and by mid-afternoon, all you are thinking of is sitting down with a good red.

One unexpected skill which has surfaced, which I am really enjoying, is cooking.

My wife, who is still working at what she loves,  announced a couple of years ago that since she is now the bread winner, that I could take over the cooking.  That was OK.  In fact it was something which I wanted to do when I was a teenager, but my rather traditional Mum did not think was appropriate.  So except for doing the camping cooking and barbeques, I did not cook until in my late 60’s.

Then I started cooking the evening meals.  And really enjoying it!  And my wife loves the freedom from the chore.

Trouble is that I detest shopping.  So the solution was a box of recipes and ingredients delivered once weekly.  HelloFresh.  It has been superb.

Then recently the cardboard box was not delivered.  Or at least it was not there at 7am on my doorstep, having been delivered at 2am.  A date stamped photograph was proof of delivery.  So it had been delivered, and stolen.  I am suspicious by nature, and having had no thefts here in 40+ years, I wondered about the delivery person.

Hellofresh took no responsibility.  I had no evidence to support my suspicion.  So we ate toast and cereal and take away for a week.  But I was really pissed off.

So I have spent several days installing a surveillance camera system.  I had installed a similar system some years ago in my workshop, so I felt reasonably confident that I could manage it.  Buying the system was straightforward.  Seems that they are commonplace.  4 cameras.  Recording machine with 2 terabytes of hard disk!  And connected to the Internet, so I can see what the cameras are seeing at any time, on my iphone!  And get alerts if the motion plus heat detectors are triggered.  Amazing!

Trouble is that I had to install the system myself.  It seems that the legal system has pushed professional installers to extinction, by making them legally responsible for thefts where systems are in place.

And at 68, I did not enjoy getting up and down ladders installing cameras and cables.  Or scrambling about amongst the spiders and crap under the house.  But at the time of writing the system is in place.  And working.    Another retirement skill.

And the clarity of the 4K pictures is outstanding.

What I will do if the alarm is triggered is another question to be pondered.  This is Oz, not US, so going outside with guns blazing is not an option.  Thank goodness.

A steam driven water pump, and a whistle.

Boilers, whether full size or model, get through substantial volumes of water.  When my 6″ vertical boiler is working hard, so is the water pump, to replenish the water which is turned to steam.

At present, the water pump is a manual pump, and it needs to be operated almost continually when the boiler is steaming hard.

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I am not sure whether operating the hand pump (lower right), or the propane burner, consumes more energy.

So it was with great interest that I viewed the steam pump in operation which was built by Stuart Tankard, at last night’s meeting of GSMEE.  I have plans and castings for the same unit, and expect to make it later this year.  It is a Worthington type pump, and the castings and plans were supplied by Southworth Engines.

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Stuart’s latest.

 

In this video, for the demonstration, the pump is running on very low pressure compressed air.  The larger cylinders are the steam powered driving cylinders, and the smaller ones are the water pumps.  So whatever the pressure of the steam, the water pressure will be greater, and able to be pumped into the boiler.

And finally, I bought a steam whistle.  It was supplied by Microcosm.engine from China and it was very reasonably priced. ($US39).  I have not tested it yet, but it came highly recommended by Keith Appleton.  It is certainly very nicely made.  I screwed it onto the boiler as a bit of bling because I showed my boiler progress at last night’s meeting of GSMEE.

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Almost ready for the boiler inspector.

Almost ready for the boiler inspector!

It feels like the countdown to the finals medical exams!

So today, I drilled the gas jet from 0.22mm to 0.3mm.   A drill bit to drill 0.3mm, is, at least to my eyes, barely visible.  It is finer than the finest sewing needle.  If I pick up a 0.3mm drill bit I can not feel it.  It has no discernable weight.

So this is how I increased the jet size from 0.22 to 0.3mm.

Oops!  I forgot to take a photo.  I bought a set of micro drills from Jaycar, and the smallest bit was 0.3mm.  So I mounted it in the Dremel, and ran it at 10,000 rpm.   for a vise I used my fingers.  The drill went straight through the millimeter or so of brass with no detectable resistance.   Managed to miss my fingers.

0.22mm to 0.3mm diameter is almost a doubling in area of the jet orifice, so I tested the flame.  It was (not surprisingly) much bigger!   And still a good blue colour, with minimal yellow.  So I stopped there.   I also installed an adjustable propane regulator Huib.

Then I made an angle piece to secure the boiler to its baseplate.

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I needed a non rusting disk, 165mm diameter, with a 152mm hole.  The disk was 2mm thick.  So I roughly bandsawed it out in 2mm brass sheet, then set it up in the lathe as shown above.  Turned the outside diameter.  The brass sheet is held just with pressure between the headstock and the tailstock, and the disks of wood.

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Then I held the disk in the 3 jaw chuck and used a parting tool to cut out a disk to form the middle.  The waste middle came out with a bang.  I was careful to stand to the side, anticipating the decapitating scythe.   And I was not disappointed.  I did have to check that my head was still attached.

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Again, I was so involved with the machining that I forgot to take pics.  The vertical part of the angle piece is a slice of copper tube which I had reserved.  It was silver soldered to the brass  disk, then screwed to the boiler wrapper.   Some further fitting, and it ended up like this.

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The hand pump has been mounted.  yet to be connected.  A steam driven water pump will eventually occupy the spare space.  And just to make quite sure that there is enough water pumping capacity I will also be installing an injector.

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And another nice bit of bling (John).  This globe valve was made by Stuart Tankard.  I have borrowed it, pending me making one of my own.

Another pressure gauge.

Stuart Tankard rescued this large pressure gauge from being scrapped, and restored it.  It is now often on display at our club exhibitions.  I confess that I did not pay it much attention, until my recent interest in boilers and pressures.

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It is a big gauge, and the works are all on view.  The blue light is aesthetic I think.

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You can see the Bourdon tube, the link, the quadrant.  The nice aspect is that this gauge is very accurate.

 

 

6″ Vertical Boiler- the ID plate

Last task before the boiler inspector.  The unique identifier.  In my case the VR-18-18 code is stamped on the boiler in a safe location, or engraved onto a plaque which is silver soldered to the boiler shell.

I chose the latter method.  And used the opportunity to put my name and date on it.

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CNC’d the info onto a brass plate, and bent it into shape,  I use V-Carve Pro for engraving jobs. 

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Then silver soldered it into position.   In this case I used a lower temperature silver solder… “StayBrite”, so I did not risk melting the previous joins.

 

6″ Boiler. First Steaming.

Today I put water in the boiler, about half way up the sight glass, hooked up the gas, and lit the flame.  Very nervously.  What if it blows up?  What if one of the soldered bosses blows out?  What if the safety valve does not work?

Admittedly, before that I had pressurised the boiler with water, with the fittings, to 150psi, and without the fittings to 200psi, and that seemed OK except for a leak in the sight glass.  But even so, a steam test has a lot more at stake.

I had set the safety valve to 100 psi with water, but steam is a quantum leap in risk.

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This is what it currently looks like.

The burner works OK, but I am expecting that it can be improved.

It took 5 minutes to get to 25psi, 6″ to 50psi, 7″ to 75psi, and 9″ to 100psi.  At that point the pop safety valve released, suddenly and loudly, giving me quite a start.  For a few psi under 100psi it had been releasing small amounts of steam, but the “pop”, in the confines of my workshop, was really impressive.

And a video of the boiler at 100psi.  Sorry about the commentary.  Must brush up on my video skills.

 

 

Boiler. The Pressure Gauge.

I have learned a bit about pressure gauges from Frank, who used to manufacture them, and from Stuart, who made a 5″ vertical boiler which was the inspiration for my 6″ build.

For one thing, pressure gauges become less accurate as they become hotter, so steam should not be allowed into the Bourdon tube.  Which means that there should be water in the line between the steam and the gauge.  That can be managed with a pig’s tail coil of copper tube, or a water reservoir, which is what I made.

For another thing, gauges have varying accuracy, and I am fortunate in having a friend who has calibration equipment, so I can obtain information about the degree of accuracy of my selection of British and Chinese gauges.

Then there is the aesthetic appearance of the gauges.  A matter of taste, but I really like the older “Smiths” made in UK gauge.

So this is what I ended up installing.  I might change my mind later, but for the moment…..

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These are the gauge components.  The Smiths gauge itself (needs a 100 psi red line), the brass support made today, and the copper tube which provides the water barrier.

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I like it!  Hope that you agree.  Still need that shed tidy-up.

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Boiler flame fixed, and firedoor progress

The propane burner was fixed by RTFM.  There I noted that the burner was intended to be run straight off the bottle with no regulator.

I replaced the jet with one of the original size, and connected the supply hose directly to the bottle without a regulator.  Resulting in a beautiful clear blue flame.  Which did not show up well on a photo so you will just have to take my word for that.  I intend to experiment with slightly larger jet openings to fine tune it.

Then to finish the workshop session I made some fiddly little bits for the fire door.  “Bling” as my friend John would characterise it.

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You might notice the latch limiter, and the handles on the latch and the vent.  M2 screws.  All of those bits work well.  Some finish filing still to be done.

Boiler stand, gas fire, and firedoor latch/catch.

The boiler will most often be fired on gas, but it is being made so that it can also use coal-wood.

So the base needs to cope with ash from coal or wood, and also have adequate clearance to fit a gas (propane) burner.  And to look OK.  And to be not too heavy to carry.

This is what I have come up with.

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Two plates of 6mm aluminium, separated by brass pillars.  It should polish up nicely.

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This is the first burning test. Fail!  Too much yellow.  Not enough blue.  Back to the drawing board.  Propane – air mix is not correct.

So I increased the jet diameter……

The flame size increased, but the mix did not improve.   A work in progress.  Another jet change, and an adjustable regulator to be tried next.

To do something positive, I made a firedoor latch and catch.  Some CNC and filing.

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Not finished, but going OK.

 

Just how strong is a silver soldered join?

I bought some 6mm x 0.7mm brass strip to hold on wooden lagging on my 6″ vertical boiler.   Trouble was that I could find suppliers who had the strips only in 300mm (12″) lengths.  So I decided to join 2 of the strips to provide the 450mm lengths that I need.

I have made band saw blades with silver solder, quite succesfully, but the ends were scarfed so the join was over a 5mm or so length of the blade.

I wondered whether I could butt join the brass strips with silver solder, and if so, whether the join would be adequately strong.

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So here are the brass strips end to end, fluxed and weighed down so they do not move.

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And here is the silver soldered join.  Not particularly neat, but OK for the purposes of the test.

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The other side.  As I said, not particularly neat. And I did not even bother with an acid soak.

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So I drilled a hole in the end of the joined strips, and wired on a hefty weight.  The top end was held in the vise.   Seemed OK so I increased the weights.

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Looking down the strip from the vise.

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By this stage I was standing back, expecting the soldered join to give way.  But it did not.  Hmm.   Must do a tidy up soon.

 

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21 kg, 46.3lbs.

At this point I stopped adding weights.  I think that the soldered join should hold the wooden strips to my model boiler!

Are you impressed?  I am.

 

 

 

A new skill- riveting stuff

And I don’t mean pop riveting.  I used some solid copper rivets on the vertical boiler today.  I tried to avoid them, hoping to use small bolts and nuts instead, or even soldering,  but ended up doing it properly and using solid copper rivets.

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They do look the part.  No?  This is the ash pan door.

The copper rivets are already annealed.  You need an anvil with a depression which is the same same shape and size as the rivet head, a hammer, holes drilled and a method of cutting the rivets to length.

I secured the anvil in the vise.  The anvil was a bit of steel rod into which I bored a hemispherical depression with a ball nose end mill.  I super glued the boiler parts together, then drilled them.

Then hand held the parts containing the rivet, used side cutters to cut the rivet to length so that about one diameter of rivet was protruding, placet the rivet head onto the anvil, then gave the cut end a few taps with the hammer, to pean it over and secure it.  Easy as!

Those are the first solid rivets I have used.   Ever.

Then I silver soldered the handle in place.

The next job was a bit trickier.  I made some holes in the smoke box lid to let the safety valve and dry steam header poke through.  I tried drilling them initially, holding the lid with my hand, but the inevitable happened….   the drill bit grabbed, spun the work around, threw it and left a row of little dents on the copper surface.  I had been contemplating polishing the copper or painting it.   I guess this little accident means that I will be painting it.

So next I held the lid on the wooden form which I had used to make it, and held the form in the drill vise.  No more grabbing and throwing, but it was a bit tense.  I gradually worked up the drill sizes, and when it became close to the desired measurement, I filed the last bits.

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Those taps are vertical.  They appear to diverge because the iphone has a wide angle lens.  2 penetrations made.  One more to go.

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Redesign Trevithic Model Dredger Engine

Further to my previous post I played around with the drawing of the boiler flat end.  I have come up with some changes, which will bring the design closer to the original Trevithick design, as far as can be ascertained.

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I have already made the cutouts and drilled the holes, so I have compromised somewhat with the changes.

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Not a great photo of a computer screenshot.

On the left is the end plate with the cut outs and drilled holes as at present.  The black holes are the ones which I would have to fill, presumably with copper or bronze thread, silver soldered into place.

On the right are the:

1. modified inspection hatch, covering the rectangular hole.  I would likely change the shape a bit closer to a circular shape than drawn here.

2. The chimney secured to the flat plate with a flange and studs with square nuts

3. The firebox flange a simple disk silver soldered to the end plate, a fire door roughly elliptical in shape with older style hinges and latch and catch, and an open ash pan.  Actually, I will check the ashpan situation to ask my expert boiler friends whether these were open as  in the London Science Museum engine, or whether it would have had a grille of some kind.

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Even painted, this just would not look right.

 

Trevithick Dedger Engine -Design Changes?

I imagine that everyone who makes a model reproduction steam engine faces decisions about whether to faithfully stick with the original design, or whether to accept compromises due to accessibility of fasteners, metric dimensions, new materials, safety factors and certification and ease of machining.

The Trevithick dredger engine was a quantum leap in its day.  Trevithick was a brilliant, original, creative, genius.

But his boiler was cast iron, 1.5″ thick, because that is what he had available as the safest method for his revolutionary high pressure boiler.  A 1:8 scale model, if it is to be AMBSC certified, must be made of copper, silver soldered.   And the flat end must be LG2 bronze, not cast iron.  Fair enough.  When painted, the metal type will not look wrong.

And I am working from plans originally drawn in 1985 by Tubal Cain, and redrawn by Julius deWaal in 2016.

Unfortunately, despite manufacturing at least 600 engines of this type, there are NO intact authentic Trevithick high pressure boiler/engines or plans in existence.  The Trevithick dredger engine in the London Science Museum was rebuilt in the late 19th century, in Victorian times, and although it contains some original Trevithick components, some of the components had to be built from scratch, and reflect more of the Victorian style than the 1806 Trevithick style.

There are NO known original Trevithick plans or drawings, except for one concept sketch.

The earliest drawing of the Trevithick dredger engine comes from an encyclopaedia which was published in about 1820.  It is, I consider, the best image for the modeller to work from.  Many of Trevithick’s  engines would have been operating when this image was made.

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Note the straight connecting rods, the straight boiler supports, and the absence of decorative mouldings on the flywheel

 

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This is a drawing of the reconstructed Trevithick dredger engine in the London Science Museum.  Some of the features are more Victorian than 1806.

Knowing that the boiler cylinder and vertical cylinder end were all cast in one piece does explain how that complex shape was made.

This is a photo which I recently found, showing the flat end of the LSM reconstruction.   The location and shape of the penetrations is probably accurate, and are possibly original, even though some other details such as the con rods are not.  I am disappointed that the modern plans (Tubal Cain and deWaal) chose to modernise the shapes of the inspection hatch and firebox door.  Unfortunately my 1:8 construction has progressed beyond the point where I could readily make the older, more authentic shapes.

(Note made 12 Sep 2018.  I have actually changed the design of the end plate, and am well into making components which are more in keeping with the 1820 encyclopaedia drawing.  After discussion with the boiler inspector, I have filled the unwanted drilled holes, and made a new, circular inspection plate, and filled the rectangular cut-out in the end plate.  I am sure that the changes will look more authentic.  I will post the changes soon.)

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The flat end of my model as per Tubal Cain and Julius deWaal. It is quite different from the Science Museum engine.  The end is bolted to the boiler flange, so it would be a straightforward task to totally remake it.  The newer version has a larger fire door opening which would be an advantage if the model is fueled with coal.  The inspection hatch is the feature which I find most disconcerting.  As an interim measure I will remake it with more rounded corners and no central depression.  I am considering whether to remake the firebox opening, door and surround.  Some drilled holes would need to plugged in the flat bronze.  The shape shown in the LSM engine would make it easier to fire it with propane.

Or, I could just finish the model as per the plans.  Any thoughts from my readers?  And does anyone have photographs of the LSM engine?  I have scoured the Internet but the quality of most published photos is awful.

This post is a bit rambly, because my ideas are changing even as I write.  Clarifying my thoughts is one advantage in putting thoughts to paper.

6″ Vertical Boiler. Finishing the firedoor

The doors on this boiler have consumed more time and energy than I expected.

Partly because the firedoor has a vent, has a heat shield, is oval shaped, and is mounted on a curved surface which will get very hot in use.

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It is still not quite finished, needing a catch and a latch.  There is a spring which pushes the vent against the door.  And a heat shield which needed a few shaping processes to make sure that it did not foul the firehole.  The heatshield is supposed to be stainless steel, but the copper cutout left over from when the firehole was cut in the wrapper, seemed ideal for the job.  The central shaft is stainless steel, threaded M4 at back and M3 through the door.

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I intend to use propane as the main fuel for the boiler, but I have constructed the firebox so it could use coal as an alternative.  This is the ash pan opening.  Constructed from 1.4mm brass, and silver soldering the join.  Pretty neat hey!  I have made the door and hinges, and will hang the door next session.  I will replace those cap screws with something more suitable.

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The hinges are quite small.  3mm wide, and when trimmed will be about 18mm long.  To make them I drilled a 1.5mm hole in a piece of brass rod, silver soldered the rod to some 1.3mm sheet brass, then bandsawed- cut the piece into separate hinges.  Since that pic was taken I have milled the width to 3mm, and trimmed the lengths.  I dropped one hinge, and spent a fruitless hour trying to find it.  Fortunately I had made a spare, but I cannot aford to lose another.  The hinges will be riveted to the door and the ashpan surround.

Hanging a door on a boiler.

After yesterday’s disaster, I realised that I could not fix the door and vent that I had spent so many hours making.  The vent holes and the vent itself were too big for the opening into the boiler.  So I had to totally redesign and remake them.

But you know what?  When you make something a second time, you have done it before. And the second making is MUCH faster.

So I remade the firebox door and the vent control grill.  Then I made another hinge.  And I attached them to the boiler.  And you know what else….   I broke another f*****g 1.5mm drill bit in the hinge…. again.  But it is OK.   I have made that mistake only twice on this job, so I have got two more goes before I slit my wrists.

As for the suggestion that I use EDM to remove the broken drill piece, I really doubt that would work on a 1.5mm drill.  But maybe…..

But the broken drill bit was in both the door and the hinge.  So I just left it there, and it can become half of the hinge pin, permanently.

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The top hinge pin is the broken drill bit.  The bottom half is the 2mm cap screw which I managed to thread in place.  The photo is upsidedown.  This is not yet finished.  I still need to make and install a baffle for the door.  And the ugly soldering splodge will disappear under the paint or the wooden slat lagging….  haven’t decided yet. 

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The door is eliptical.  And it will be painted so I have not fussed too much about finish.  This photo needs to rotate 90º.

 

Two steps forward one step back again!

I had a whole day to myself, in the workshop.  SWMBO was happy painting or something, and the kids did not need us to baby sit the grandchildren.  So, let’s make the 6″ boiler fire door and ash pan door.

But first, I silver soldered the 4 joins on the super heater, and all went well.

The firehole is oval shaped, and the plans call for a rectangular door.  So I spent some time planning the machining for the rectangular door boxed section.  Then I thought … hang on…. this oval is really nice… why am I hiding it behind a rectangle ?

So back to the computer, and I worked out a method to make an oval door.  A bit like a hobbit door, with an adjustable vent.

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And here I am, machining it with a 2mm cutter.  In 1mm deep bites.  That brass is 4mm thick.

And I made a bracket to complete the hinge….

Drilled the holes for the 1.5mm pin…..

And the f*****g drill bit broke!!!!

I could not get it out.  It was a cobalt bit, and all of my methods for digging out broken bits were tried, taking a couple of hours, and failed.

So I reshaped the hinge end of the door..

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and I will silver solder a hinge end on tomorrow.

6″ Vertical Boiler.Spearhead Superheater

Some more progress on the 6″ vertical boiler.  Not much to show, but here it is.

Actually, I have been wondering whether to continue with this blog as a “what I have done today” type diary, or whether to post less often, but when a significant milestone has been passed.  Your feedback would be welcome on this decision.

The superheater is a copper item, which steam passes through, and is located in or just above the furnace.  As a result the steam becomes hotter and drier and more energetic before it is passed through the engine or whatever it is being used for.

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This is a lump of copper, 10mm thick which I have cut off a bar which I had in stock.  It will be machined into the superheater spearhead.

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The copper spearheads machines into shape.  Copper is soft, but it grabs the cutters.  Not nice to machine.  Expert Stuart said that I should have used lubricant.  Next time. 

The sperheads are bronze brazed to copper pipes, but the difficult bit was bending the 1/4″ copper pipe to fit.

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The spearhead is bronze brazed to the copper pipe.  Tricky, but seemed to go OK.  Don’t know yet whether the bronze join is steam tight.

The tricky bit is the 2 x 90º bends, really close to each other.   Does anyone have any good method for doing this?  I ended up with this result, but it is not pretty, and I am sure there must be a better method for creating the bends.

The silver soldered joins are yet to be done into the brass fittings shown.  I ran out of time in the workshop.

This is getting exciting!  I am not too far off firing up this boiler!

Then a visit to the boiler inspector.

Trevithick Dredger Engine-2 steps forward, 1 step back.

A few posts back I reported how I very cleverly silver soldered together some “sliced bread” bits of brass and bronze, because I did not have big enough material.

Then I spent a day machining the outlines, drilling the holes and finishing the parts.

Today I silver soldered the parts to the Trevithick boiler.  The joins in the material were so good they were invisible, and the fact that the joins were there did not enter my brain.

And this was the outcome.

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Before

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After

The beautiful silver soldered join melted as I attempted to silver solder the part to the boiler.  It has made the part unusable.

I will go through the exercise again, but next time I will bronze braze the join.  Bronze will not melt or let go with silver soldering temperatures.

I will try to not make this mistake again.  I try to not make the same mistake more than 3 or 4 times.

Trevithick Dredger Engine- Supports

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These are the boiler supports for th Trevithick Dredger Engine, which need a little more finishing.

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As you can see my CNC mill is working nicely.  The slow feed rate is because the brass is just super glued to the mounting base and I did not want to risk it coming adrift.

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The CNC milled parts.  The brass is 7.5mm thick.

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And this was cut out from the edge silver soldered brass bread slices.

And I have also been working on the 6″ vertical boiler.  The brazing with silver solder is almost finished.  I have been redoing some of the joins, and can now get the pressure up to 200psi.  There are 101 soldered joins in the construction (so far), so I am not too upset that a few of them were not perfect and required a redo.  SWMBO was wondering about the bills from the industrial gas supplier.  I have used several fills of oxygen.  Totally abandoned acetylene and using propane now.  It delivers more heat (at a slightly lower temperature), and much less costly.

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How to make small bits of brass (or bronze) into big bits of brass (or bronze).

I needed some brass plate 6mm thick, 50mm wide and 150mm long for the Trevithick boiler-engine..

Prices on Ebay were horrendous for thicker material, and I could find no local supplier.

Silver solder, when properly used, is said to be as strong as the parent metal.

And I had some 75 x 75mm brass square section about a meter long.  I bought it years ago for a project and most of it was unused.

So, I cut some slices off the end, sliced bread fashion, and silver soldered pieces together.

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2 Bread slices of brass (centre) and machined joined pieces on the sides.

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The square section brass log (I can barely lift it), 2 slices at the back, and 2 pieces edge silver soldered and surface machined.

I also needed a large thick piece of LG2 bronze for the Trevithick dredger engine.  The middle round piece needed to be bronze because it is exposed to boiler pressure.  The outside pieces could be bronze or brass so I used brass.

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So I silver soldered brass edge pieces to the central piece of bronze.  The soldering was done on the very flat Hebel aerated concrete block,  and the final piece was very flat, requiring minimal machining.

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This is the non machined underside of the brass-bronze-brass piece.  It has been rubbed on a surface plate covered with emery paper, just to demonstrate the flatness of the soldered piece.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine. Making and brazing the boiler cylinder tube.

The boiler cylinder tube is the vertical cylinder which penetrates the boiler shell, and boiler end plate, and eventually houses the cylinder and piston within the boiler.

In the previous post I described cutting the hole which encloses the cylinder.

Today I made the cylinder, and brazed it in place.

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Reference lines accurately marked using machinists blue.

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It is 51mm diameter, and wall thickness 3.2mm.

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Bronze brazed into position.

And now that the brazing is completed I can cut the boiler tube to its final length.  This was left until all the brazing had been completed, in case there was a major stuff up and it had to be repeated.  That should be the last bronze brazing join on this engine.  I can return to the easier, and lower temperature silver brazed joins from on.  I must mention that working close to a workpiece which is close to 1000ºc, for 5-10 minutes at a stretch is fairly uncomfortable.  Now I know why the bronze brazing torch is a minimum of 450mm long.  Even so, I got skin burns from the metal buttons of my jacket when I touched them after a session.   A leather apron from now on.

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Measure twice, cut once.  Actually, I measured this 3 times.

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Cutting with the drop bandsaw.  Very slow feed rate so the blade does not grab this very soft copper.  This removed 3 of the remaining 4 unwanted holes.  Just one remains to be filled.

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Final length of the boiler.  All nicely square.

 

Adjusting Pressure Gauges

In a recent post about 2 pressure gauges which I bought at a club auction, a reader (Daredesign) asked whether pressure gauges are able to be adjusted if the calibration is out.

 

 

One of our GSMEE members used to manufacture pressure gauges, so I asked him.

Frank and an artist made about one gauge per day.  They were precision instruments, reading within 1:200 of the gauge reading.  And priced accordingly.  The face marks were painted by hand onto each gauge face by the artist, in positions marked by the instrument maker in a temperature controlled room.

Pressure gauges CAN be adjusted.  And the better the quality of the instrument, the more readily it can be adjusted.  The means of adjustment depends on the nature of the error.

If the error is a constant number throughout the pressure range, the pointer is removed from its tapered spindle and replaced in the new position.

If the error varies throughout the pressure range, the adjustment is of the inside mechanism.  Two arms named the link and the quadrant are joined together and the join position and angle between the parts can be adjusted.  The length of the link can also be adjusted.  Frank gave me a detailed explanation of the types of errors and the adjustments, and I do not remember the details.  I imagine that these procedures should be left to experts like Frank.

Frank also explained the workings of the Bourdon tube which is the main component of most pressure gauges.  The Bourdon tube is a thin walled, oval section, copper-beryllium  alloy tube, bent into an arc, and closed at one end.  With pressure increase the tube tends to straighten, and the movement is translated into movement of the dial needle.  The copper alloy is chosen because of a property called hysteresis, which I understand means that it returns exactly to its original shape when the pressure in the tube returns to its resting level.Bourdon tube pressure gauge. 

In this diagram, the quadrant is named “sector”.  The angle between the segment lever (or “quadrant”) and adjustable link should be 90 degrees when the pressure is halfway in its range.

So, I hope, Daredesign that this answers your question, and that I am reproducing the information accurately.

 

Steam Driven Water Pump for Vertical Boiler

Unfortunately I did not make this pump.  It was made by Stuart Tankard.  I have the castings and plans, and intend to make one for my 6″ vertical boiler but I have too much on the go at present and will finish the vertical boiler and the Trevithick engine first.

Enjoy the pics.  Stuart sets the machining standard for the rest of us to aspire to.

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We did not see it running today, but it does work.

It is a 6” Duplex pump from Southworth Engines.

Trevithick Dredger Engine. Cutting through the domed end plate.

This was a part of the build which I was dreading.

I needed to cut a 50mm diameter hole through the boiler wrapper and the domed end plate, and the bronze join in order to insert the vertical cylinder which houses the cylinder, piston etc..

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In this reconstructed Trevithick boiler, the vertical cylinder is visible.  

A series of photos is probably the best method of explaining the process…

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The boiler is held in a vise with extended jaws.  A wooden plug fills the cylinder so the vise does not squash the softened copper.  The 50mm hole saw is fine toothed, and run very slowly (250rpm), using hand feed also very slowly.  The copper is 3mm thick, doubled to 6mm at this stage, and with a middle layer of hard bronze.

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When the full depth of the hole saw was reached I cut a horizontal slit with an angle grinder and snapped the piece out.  Then resumed the hole saw cut.  The middle of the domed end was the least supported, and it flapped about a bit, despite its 3mm thickness.

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The wooden plug is visible.  2 more cuts to go.

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Some extra length of the shaft was required, so I switched to ER40 and ER25 collets to hold the hole saw.  Cut completed.

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The domed end was slightly distorted by the cutting, since the copper was annealed by the previous bronze brazing heat.  So I inserted the original wooden form, and hammered it into place to reshape the domed end.  Worked quite well.  The edges are a bit chewed rough, but since this join will also be bronze brazed, and therefore gap filled with bronze, it should not matter.  In fact I intend to chamfer the edges to create a V to fill with bronze.

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And with the 50mm cylinder in place it all looked nice and square.  The removed copper pieces sitting on the vise.

And….  thanks to Stuart T, my CNC mill is again in action.  Stuart identified the probable culprit component (a chip on a board for the encoder for the Z axis servo motor), made a new board for the new chip and installed it.  He was not confident that it would fix the problem, with the likelihood that a complete electronic rebuild of all electronic components would be needed.  But it worked!   Hooray!!   I feel like my right hand has been repaired.   Thanks Stuart.

Trevithick Dredger Engine- bronze brazing and some milled parts.

 

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The copper tube which I am using for boiler shell has 6 holes, intended for another project by the previous owner.  Here I am trimming the length, so 2 of the holes will eventually be removed.  Using a drop bandsaw, with a wooden plug so the tube is not bent by vise pressure.

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Bronze brazing the domed boiler end to the boiler wrapper.  The assembly absorbs a huge amount of heat before it reaches brazing temperature.  Showing the temporary forge, and the torch head for the oxy-propane fuel.  The join has been completed in this photo.

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The join in progress.  Note the positioning copper rivets, and the tacking points.  At this point I ran out of oxygen and had to finish the braze on the following day.

And today I made some parts for the boiler’s removable flat end.  My CNC mill is out of action, so GSMEE President Brendan kindly allowed me to use his machine.

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CNC spotting 3.2mm brass plate.

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The almost completed firebox door base.  Spotting did not allow for the removed material in the rebate, and the drill ran out in one hole- some repair required.  I will plug and redrill that hole.

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The manhole cover.  It will eventually be painted.

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Sitting in intended positions.  Fastener holes spotted, yet to be drilled and threaded.

Oxy-acetylene or Oxy-propane for silver soldering (and bronze brazing)?

There has been a big learning curve for me in making the 6″ vertical boiler and the Trevithick dredger engine.  I have used silver solder for previous projects, and I thought that I had the method under control.

I have always used oxyacetylene for my earlier, smaller projects, presuming that the higher flame temperature would produce results more easily.  That is what I tried to do with the 6″ boiler project.  But I struggled.  In order to produce a broad flame, and not burn the copper, I used a big, number 26 nozzle.  Initially it produced a lovely big hot flame, but within minutes it started popping, and blowing out.  Faulty acetylene gauge?  Gun not up to the job?  Acetylene cylinder running low?  So I replaced the acetylene cylinder. Cost $AUD100.   Seemed to fix the problem temporarily, but then the popping resumed.   Faulty gauge?  A borrowed replacement gauge produced the same result.

So back to the welding and gas supplier.

“You cannot run a nozzle bigger than No 15 when using acetylene.  The acetylene does not come out of solution in the cylinder quickly enough”.

OK.  So what do I do?  “Use propane”.  “but you need different hoses, different gauge, different mixer and nozzle”.  OK, give me those….  cost $AUD 260.   And it worked!!!

Propane and oxygen burns at a lower temperature (~2820ºc) than acetylene and oxygen (~3420ºc) , but the gas volume delivery of the propane is MUCH greater than the acetylene.  So the delivery of the heat is much greater.

For me, I will be returning the acetylene cylinder and permanently switching to propane.  Much cheaper and much more heat.  But, that heat can lead to unintended consequences…So, here we are on the Trevithick dredger engine.  I needed to bronze braze the join between the firebox and the firetube. (a boiler inspector requirement).  Bronze melts at 836-1030ºc which is not far off the melting point of copper.  And my first attempt ended in disaster!  I melted the copper firetube!!!  An expensive blob of copper and bronze!!! (no photos.  I was too cross with myself).

The next effort was an improvement, but not pretty.

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Using a holesaw to cut a 38mm hole in the 64mm copper tube.

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The angle was not quite right, but fixed with some careful filing.

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Setup, ready for bronze brazing.  The firebricks are holding the pieces in position.

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After bronze brazing.  It is not pretty, but I am a beginner at this.

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The end plate was used as a jig.

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And then I accidentally dropped it. (#$#%&**#)  Restored to proper shape with some careful blacksmithing.

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My great great grandfather was a blacksmith.  

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OK.  It is not pretty.  But not bad for a gynaecologist.

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And to show you what Trevithick’s blacksmiths made to his design.  I count at least 19 individual iron pieces, riveted together.  This was the firebox and firetube of the first high pressure boiler.  Incredible!

 

 

 

 

 

6″ Vertical Boiler. Calibrating the pressure gauge

I bought 2 pressure gauges at a recent Model Engineering Club auction night.  I paid $AUD40 for the pair, although I was really only interested in the smaller one.

It was a bit of a gamble.  Would they work?  Accurate?

Stuart mentioned that he had an instrument for calibrating gauges, and he checked my gauges.

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This gauge was item 51 at the auction.  It is about 4″ diameter and has some style!   Brass of course.   The cream painted instrument with the shiny brass weights is the calibration gauge.  It confirmed that my gauge was spot on at pressures of 50, 100, 150, 200 qnd 250psi.

The smaller gauge, 38mm  1.5″ diameter which I will use on the Trevithick dredger engine, was not quite as accurate, being 2.5psi out, but is adequate for use.  It is also British made, brass, and nice appearance.

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6″ Vertical boiler. 2nd Braze

Today was cold, wet and windy. so the wood heater was started when I arrived at the workshop.

Then a couple of hours using emery paper and steel wool to get shiny copper surfaces ready for silver soldering on the vertical boiler.  Then copious application of flux to the surfaces.  Loose bits held with iron wire.

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A slight re-shaping of my forge to accomodate the shape, and allow access to the top front and sides.

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Not so pretty after applcation of heat from the oxyacetylene torch and the weed flamer at the same time.  Both hands were fully occupied, so no action photos.

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And after the usual sulphuric acid bath and rinse.  A couple of joins need to be redone, and then a test for leaks.

Reader and GSMEE member Ian asked about the cam lock clamps which I used in a recent post.

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They are “KNU-VISE” clamps, used in aircraft manufacture I believe.  I bought a box full of them in Ebay’s early days, when bargains were still to be found and US postage was not prohibitative.  Very useful for powerful clamping up to about 50mm.

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A Nice Day!

First was a trip to the boiler inspector, to inspect the first silver braze on the 6″ vertical boiler.  Passed!  And quite complimentary about the quality of the build so far.

And….  he has OK’d my plans for the Trevithick Dredger engine boiler.   Which is nice because I have already started it, and was going to build it in any case.  Only requirement is that I have to add a pressure gauge.  As far as I know, none of Trevithick’s engines used pressure gauges, just weight based safety valves.  So a pressure gauge will not exactly be in keeping with the historicity of the model, but it seems a small price to pay to get the boiler certified.   Now I am trying to work out where to place the pressure gauge so the operator can see it, but not the viewing public.

Then a late entrance to our GSMEE day meeting.  (Geelong Society of Model and Experimental Engineers).   I showed my progress on the 6″ vertical boiler.  And took some pics of some of the other items brought in by members.

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A very nice lagged boiler and engine by Neil

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and that firebox door is titanium!  And check out the screws in the base….  no-one is going to be able to unscrew this model!

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The steam control valve for Neil’s engine.  He used a solder with which I was unfamiliar…. “StayBrite” which is said to have a melting point above soft solder, but not as high as silver solder.   Bought at JayCar.   The cap screws have BA threads… unusual!

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And finally, a small steam driven pump brought in by our senior member Laurie, made decades ago by a friend.  Laurie is a club treasure, being a great raconteur, especially about his WW2 experiences in the Australian army, and having made superb models when younger which are still regularly run and exhibited.   The coin for scale is an Australian 50 cent piece; large, heavy, and it takes about 10 of them to buy a cup of coffee; much disliked.

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine- the flat end

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The 6″ vertical boiler has had its first brazing session, and has been put aside while I wait for the boiler inspector to give the “go ahead” so I can proceed to the next brazing session.  I am told that the first braze is the most difficult.   The next braze is bigger, but the components are all on or near to the surface, and it is consequently more straightforward.

So, while waiting, I pulled out the Trevithick Dredger Engine, and decided to make the flat end plate and flange.  These are machined from LG2 bronze disks 13mm and 8.5mm thick.

bronze blanks

204mm diameter.

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An aluminium sacrificial plate was made and held in the milling vise.  The bronze disks were CNC drilled.

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The disk which will become the flange is tapped.

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The holes in the end plate were CNC’d on the mill, which died during the procedure.  The Z axis went crazy.  Fortunately I managed to hit the panic button and the end plate was not destroyed.   Currently Stuart & I are trying to determine the cause of the robot madness, but that looks like being a lengthy process.   The rebate being completed on the lathe in the pic would have been an easy CNC mill process, but the workpiece was quite thin to be held in the lathe chuck.

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Showing how the end plate was held in the lathe chuck, with double rare earth magnets holding the plate away from the chuck jaws permitting the tin workpiece to be turned.  A bit tricky, but went well.

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The flange on the left will eventually be brazed to the boiler shell.  The end plate on the right will be bolted to the flange. 

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The end plate and the flange mated together

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The big tube 65mm diameter will become the firebox,  the smaller one 38mm dia will be the firetube exhausting to the chimney.

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None of the tubes are yet cut to length, but starting to take form. 

 

Timing a Stuart Triple Expansion Steam Engine

Reader Steve kindly sent me these notes which detail how to time a Stuart model Triple Expansion Steam Engine.   The notes are quite clearly written, and I recall that a few readers had an interest in the subject.  Thanks Steve.

Easier to read if you enlarge the picture of the text.

Triple Timing

6″ Vertical Boiler- First silver Brazing

So what is the big deal?

Well for a start, this is a big deal financially.  The materials to be joined are expensive, and some are difficult to obtain.

And the silver solder itself is expensive.  We ended up using 4 sticks of 45% silver solder, and an unknown quantity of oxygen, acetylene and propane.

And the end result will be inspected by an expert boiler inspector, and if it is substandard, it will be rejected.  No argument.

So yeah, it was a big deal.  Look at the pics.   A few friends called in to watch and help.  It was a cold wet winter day, and I had the workshop wood heater working to keep the troops happy.

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I used steel wool to expose the elemental copper.

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Me applying flux.  Note the silver solder rings which were made on the lathe.  Don’t ask where the brush originated.

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The firebox wrapper was placed on the aerated concreted form to keep the tubeplate level, and allow the tubes to penetrate exactly 2mm.  The tube ends were fluxed, and silver solder rings placed into the join.

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The 44 fluxed firetubes with their rings of silver solder are in place.  The top tube plate will not be brazed at this time.  It is there to keep the firetubes in the correct position.  The firebox tubeplate is also fluxed and sitting in position on its Hebel block.

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Me on the left with the propane weed flamer applying gross heat, Stuart with oxyacetylene applying local heat and silver solder, and Swen cheering.  Brendan is the photographer, trying not to get burnt.

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We probably should have reshaped the forge to reflect the heat more efficiently.

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When the brazing seemed to be finished, the work was allowed to cool to 200c, then quenched in water then a 15″ soak in 20% sulphuric acid to remove any remaining flux, then a further water soak to remove any acid.  Yes, the top plate is upside down.  Yes, it will be reversed eventually.

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Inspection from inside the firebox.  Most firetubes have taken the silver solder properly, but a few of the inner circle and the flue require a second application.  The brazing heat looks to have been inadequate near the centre, probably due to the density of the firetubes.

So, not a perfect result, but not bad for a beginner.  Stuart opined that the job would have been better if my silver solder was the older, (more dangerous) but more runny type which contained cadmium.

Turning Concrete on a Metalworker’s Lathe

OK.  The concrete is aerated… Hebel.

But, it does turn easily and cleanly.

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But it is concrete, and probably very abrasive, so I have covered everything in plastic, and used an old carbide cutter.

I needed to refine the dimensions and shape of the supporting block while brazing  my 6″ vertical boiler, so I turned it.  And it worked brilliantly.

 

Gaskets with CNC, and progress on the Trevithick Dredger Engine.

Tomorrow I start silver brazing the 6″ vertical boiler.

But today I started machining the bronze end plate of the Trevithick Dredger Engine.

First I prepared a 100x25x200mm sacrificial aluminium block to hold the expensive bronze disks which will become the end plate and flange of the Trevithick boiler.

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CNC drilling the 8mm thick bronze end plate and the sacrificial mounting block.

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This thicker bronze disk (13mm thick) will become the flange which is brazed to the boiler shell.  The holes were also CNC drilled, then threaded using a battery drill, held vertically in my shop made threading jig.  The flange and the end plate require more holes and shoulders.  The mounting block will assist with repositioning.

Earlier I had called on GSMEE president Brendan, who happens to possess a CNC laser cutter.  I had discussed the possibility of CNC cutting some gaskets for the steam pump which will be made for the 6″ vertical boiler.  “No Problem”, said Brendan.

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Taping the gasket material to the CNC laser cutter table.

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Starting the cut.

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The 15 gaskets accurately cut out.  Cut out by hand would have been a half day job.  The laser finished it in about 3 minutes, perfectly (plus maybe an hour drawing the pattern using a CAD program).  It is a 40 watt laser, and will cut through 3mm plywood.  No problem with this 0.4mm gasket material running the laser at 25% power.

 

 

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6″ Vertical Boiler. Ideal soldering set-up block. Concrete!

OK.  My non machinist readers will have no idea what I am talking about.  And I suspect that my machinist readers wont either.

I need some precisely machined and measured blocks to set up the soldering for the boiler.  I want them to not suck up my soldering heat (so no metal), and to not stick to my silver solder (so not steel, copper, etc).

How about concrete?  More specifically, aerated concrete.  Hebel.

Look at the pics……  I need a cylinder, about 100mm high and 110mm diameter, which will not absorb heat and not stick to silver solder.

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This is a 600x400x75mm Hebel block.   Cost $AUD4.60.  It is part of my forge, but will be replaced easily.

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Marked out the bit I want.

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So I cut it on the bandsaw.  It is aerated concrete.  Hebel.

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Cuts quickly and easily.  Probably not good for the blade.  But we will see.

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How accurate is the thickness??   Pretty amazing IMO.  within 0.1mm.  The second measurment is after a quick touch up with emery paper on a flat plate.

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And this is the first setup, ready for soldering.   Watch this space.  soldering in 2 days.

 

6″ Vertical Boiler- Steam Outlet & Safety Valve Standard

Some more progress over the last 2 days.

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The chimney flare sitting in its intended position.  The attachments at the smokebox are completed.

 

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The smokebox tube plate, waiting for its firetubes.  The bronze fittings are the safety valve and its standard on the left, and the main steam outlet standard on the right, sitting in position.

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My workbench becomes increasingly cluttered as a job progresses.

Silver brazing is the next step.  There will be 2 major soldering sessions, with boiler inspections after each one.  I will enlist some extra hands and expertise for the soldering.  (Stuart, I hope that you are reading this.)

6″ Vertical Boiler Chimney Flare

I was relieved from duty with the ankle biters for a few hours today, when my wife took them to the local animal sanctuary.  They petted a Tree Python (OMG!), and a Koala, and were entertained by the talking Sulphur Crested Cockatoos, one of which is aged 91 years!

Making the most of my temporary freedom I visited the workshop.  Soldered the chimney support to the smoke box roof, and made a chimney flare.  It probably has a more technical name, but when you see it, you will realise where it goes.

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6″ Vertical Boiler- Chimney flange

I was not required for childminding for a few hours yesterday, so a quick visit to the workshop.  Not much to show, but I did make 2 circular flanges to attach the chimney to the smoke box lid, and soldered them in place.

Getting a flange to be exactly perpendicular to its tube was tricky.  I set it up in place, and soldered it, only to find that it had moved significantly out of position.  To fix the problem I turned a steel collar to fit around the chimney, re-heated the soldered pieces with oxyacetylene, trying not to overdo the heat so I did not melt the brass flange, but enough to melt the silver solder, but not allowing the solder to join the steel collar to the brass or the copper.   Then I lightly tapped the flange onto the turned collar, hopefully into the correct position this time.  Sounds simple?  But applying the heat, and tapping the flange required one or two more hands than I possess.

But it turned out OK.

I had drilled and tapped the holes prior to soldering, and they all matched well.

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The chimney is about 300mm long.  The bottom part has been dipped in suphuric acid, hence the clean appearance.  Still considering options for the chimney flared section.  It needs some form of decorative flare.

 

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The bottom flange is soldered to the “Heldon” labelled tube, which will be soldered later to the smoke box lid.  The fasteners are M3 stainless cap screws, which will be reversed on the boiler with nuts showing above the flange.

6″ Vertical Boiler- Penetrations

Another few hours in the workshop today.

Continuing preparing the parts for the boiler.  Drilled and reamed 9 holes and the bronze bushes which will be brazed into them.  The bushes provide the screw in points for water inlets and wet steam outlets, pressure gauge, water gauge.

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All of these components are just sitting in place, but giving an idea of size and form.

There will be no progress on the boiler for a week, due to forced absence from the workshop.  Child minding the grandchildren.   Hmmm… I wonder if a 2 year old could help in the workshop?   Possibly not a good idea.   Yet.

6″ Vertical Boiler. The final flange on the smoke box.

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This is the smoke box lid.  The chimney comes out of the middle but it requires another flange.

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So this is the cover, with the extra flange.  How did I make it?  Read on…

First a video.  Click on the arrow.  Listen to my dulcet tones.

 

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The setup on the hydraulic press.   The copper cap has been annealed, and a 19mm hole drilled to just admit the steel taper pin.

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After pushing the steel pin with 20 tonnes pressure.  Re-annealing required. 

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After the next 20 tonne push.  Re- annealing again required.

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After the third annealing and a final push with the press.   A bigger press might have done this in one step, but at the risk of the copper splitting. 

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and a 10 minute soak in 10% sulphuric acid…

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—and a tidy up of the edges in the lathe.  The intermediate piece is pushed into place, ready for silver soldering.   A couple of circular flanges to be soldered in place to hold the chimney.

Considering the force exerted on the wooden forms, I would not have been surprised if the wood had split on the hydraulic press.  But it held up.  Even so, another time I would be tempted to make the forms in steel.

6″ Vertical Boiler – drilling for bushes

I swapped vehicles to drive to my workshop today because the automatic park brake on my BMW X5 would not release.   And  in swapping vehicles I forgot to take the plans for the projects, so I could not do very much.

But I did set up for the remaining boiler wrapper perforations.

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The boiler is ready for drilling the multiple holes.  It is parallel with the mill bed, in 2 dimensions.  But without the plans I could do no more.  Ready for progress tomorrow.

Note the rectangular cut out for the ash pan.

I had previously cut the 44 firetubes from 3/8″ copper pipe.  Today I spent some time squaring the ends and deburring them.  No photo.

It is cold and wet here in southern Victoria, Australia.  I had my wood burner going in the workshop, and spent some time hooking up an industrial gas blower heater, for an extra bit of warmth.

Trevithic Dredger Engine – New End Plate

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This was my first effort at making a boiler end plate.  It was OK, but a lot of my hammer blows left dents which looked pretty ordinary.

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I tried to improve the appearance by polishing, but that just accentuated the dents.

The boiler inspector passed it, but I coud see that he was not too impressed.  And neither was I, so I made another one.  This time I made male and female wooden forms, annealed the copper disk and pressed the domed shape.  Then re-annealed and hammered out the flanges.

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It was worth the extra effort No?

I will keep the reject part.  Might be useful for something, and will remind me to be more careful.

6″ Vertical Boiler- the Firehole

The firehole is the opening where coal is shovelled into the firebox.  It is oval shaped, and is exposed to the boiler pressure.  It is made from thick copper tube.  Oval holes must be formed through the boiler wrapper and the firebox wrapper.

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The elliptical hole in the boiler wrapper, and the firehole tube.

The first task is to shape copper tube which is circular, into oval shaped tube.  I decided to make an oval shaped split wooden form and to compress the annealed copper tube with the form.

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The wooden slab is cut into 2 pieces which are then cramped together, and the oval hole is CNC machined.  

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A 1″ 25mm length of 3.2mm thick walled tube is cut off, then annealed.  Note that I have upgraded my forge.  I bought some aerated concrete blocks (Hebel), and enlarged and encased the forge.  The white Hebel blocks reflect the heat and the forge temperature rises quickly.   the outside of the forge remains quite cool, testimony to Hebel’s insulating properties.  Hebel is quite inexpensive.  A 600 x 200 x 100mm blocks costs $AUD4.60.  Heating time is 60 seconds, vs 90 seconds with the previous setup.

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The wooden form and the unshaped thick walled copper tube.

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After squeezing the annealed coper pipe in the form, using a 6″ vice.  Nice elliptical shape.  Note the pencil witness mark.

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Then the elliptical hole is cut into the boiler wrapper.  The vice jaws were replaced by temporary aluminium jaws 4″ high, adequate to hold the 6″ diameter tube.  Cutting the elliptical hole on the CNC mill.  There are wooden plugs in the boiler tube to prevent the boiler tube from distorting

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The finished boiler hole and the elliptical insert.  This was tense machining. 

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The fit is a bit too tight.  I will take off another 0.1mm so it is an easy sliding fit, suitable for silver soldering.    Then to cut the same elliptical hole in the firebox wrapper, but while the main cylinder is set up in this position I can cut openings for the ashpan and safety valve bush.                                                                                                                              

6″ Vertical Boiler Smoke Box Cover

Today I made the smoke box cover for the vertical boiler.

I decided to try a different method for making the 20 degree conical shape.  Previously I have beaten or tapped or hammered the shape.  This time I decided to press the annealed 3mm thick copper into the desired shape.  It worked!

I needed a 20 degree conical shape.  For various reasons I decided to use 3mm thick copper.

So firstly I turned a male and female form in hardwood.

Then I cut out a circle of 3mm thick copper plate.

Then I pressed the shape between the forms in my 20 tonne hydraulic press.

It worked perfectly! In one go. But the flange still needed beating with a hammer, after multiple annealings.

 

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This is a staged shot of the pressed copper between the male and female hardwood forms.

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The female form on the left, and the copper, already flanged over the male form.

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The male form

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Prying the copper dome off the male form

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This is the smoke box lid, shaped and turned, ready to be attached to the boiler cylinder.  It looked a lot nicer after a soak in sulphuric acid.

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This is how it will look with the chimney attached.

6″ Vertical Boiler. CNC Drilling Firetube Holes

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After all of the careful flange forming I was careful to not screw up the firetube perforations in the boiler end plates.  At times like this it is great to have a CNC mill/drill.

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The wooden form is useful as a clamping aid.

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No major stuff ups (or should it be “stuffs up”?).   And I am not pointing out the small ones.  I was unsure in the firebox plate which side to chamfer.  Will I silver solder the top side or the bottom side?  Eventually I decided that I would solder between the firetubes rather than the underside.  Still unsure whether that was the best decision.

The “ligaments” (the metal between the holes) must not be less than 3mm.  The minimum in these plates is 3.5mm.  The holes are chamfered to make the silver soldering process easier.  The extra hole in the top plate is to install the bronze bush for the attachment of the wet header.

6″ Vertical Boiler, Using Clekos, and dropping the Traction Engine into a hole.

Tha firefox wrapper is made, and today I fitted a butt strap.  The butt strap will be riveted to the wrapper, and brazed later.  In order to drill the rivet holes, the parts needed to be held together, Clekos proved perfect for the job.

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Using the external clamping Clekos to keep parts in place while I drill the first hole.

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Then as each hole was drilled an internal Cleko was inserted.  Worked very well.

Then, a Bit of fun on the TRACTION ENGINE

Oh Bother.  Where did that hole come from?  And why isn’t this traction engine a 4 wheel drive?  Had to uncouple the trailer, and two men to push it out of the hole.

The redesigned steam regulator worked very well, as did the steam driven suction pump.  The new oiler filled up with steam, so I need to fix the non return valve.  Probably a bit of grit in it.

 

Vertical Boiler Firebox Wrapper

Next part to make on the 6″ vertical boiler is the firebox wrapper.  I had ordered some 3mm thick 5″ diameter tube from the UK, but when it arrived, at vast expense, it was only 2.5mm thick, and would not pass the boiler inspection.

The vendor agreed to replace the item, but still no word when that will happen, so I decided to make the tube myself, by rolling 3mm plate copper sheet.

I calculated that I would require 399mm to make a 5″ tube, and bandsawed a piece off my 300x400mm sheet.

My hand roller is only rated for 1mm thick material,  and my powered shop roller would not fit the 105mm width.  So I tried the hand roller.  It would not look at the copper strip in an un-annealed state.  So I annealed it.   Photo opportunity!

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Too big for my “kiln” so it took longer, and lots of spilt heat.  But it was a cold winter day again, so the heat in my workshop was welcome.

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The 3mm thickness was a bit of a problem.  The gears in the roller are really not designed to mesh at this thickness.  But with a bit of gear jumping, and a lot of elbow grease, the roll started to take shape.

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Re-annealing was required at this stage.  Looking a bit rough.

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Just love that colour

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The wooden form gives exactly the final shape and size.  Determining the longitudinal cut was tricky.

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I determined the squarest end, rested it on the table, and bandsawed the mark.  Then a bit of hand hammering. over the wooden form.

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The foundation ring was machined to the final size yesterday.  The outside of the ring fits nicely inside the boiler wrapper. And the firebox wrapper fits neatly inside .  It needs to be OK’d by the boiler inspector before I silver braze it.

 

6″ Vertical Boiler

Today I made a start on the vertical boiler.  I will be working on this as well as the Trevithick dredger engine, trying to coordinate the boiler inspection stages for both projects.  I have most of the materials, including the boiler cylinder copper tube and the copper plate for the boiler ends.  So today I made the top tube plate and the foundation ring.

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The tube plate was a similar process to the Trevithick boiler end which I described in the previous post.  I made another form but this time I used Gippsland blue gum.  The European oak form which I made for the Trevithick did not last the distance with all of the hammering, and it broke.  The blue gum is an incredibly hard tough wood, and it did not even show any marks after making the boiler end today.

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The end is quite flat.  It is an easy sliding fit.  Holes for firetubes and flue yet to be drilled.

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The electronic thermometer is quite handy, making sure that the copper is adequately heated.  I take it up to 600c, and maintain it there for 30 seconds before quenching.  Dull red is 500c, bright red is 600c.

THE FOUNDATION RING

The foundation ring is made from square section copper 9.5×9.5mm.  I rolled the rod to form the circle so it just fits into the boiler tube.

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This is after 3 or 4 passes of the un-annealed square rod, through the home made ring roller.

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The ring is almost closed

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Measuring the external diameter of the ring.  The large calipers are made of aluminium, were  inexpensive, and are surprisingly accurate.

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At this point I needed to bend the very ends of the copper rod, so I annealed the copper, and bent the ends by hammering over a steel form.  The ring roller does not bend the last 30-35mm.  The weed flamer gives out a lot of heat; nice on a cold day.

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The red hot glow of copper is a superb irridescent colour.

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Then the ends were trimmed (after cooling) and bronze brazed.  I would have silver brazed the join, but I misjudged the position and needed to fill a gap, so bronze was required because of its gap filling property.

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Tidied up in the lathe, and cleaned with a brief soak in sulphuric acid.

So, making progress.  A beautiful winter day in the workshop in Victoria, Australia.

Trevithick Boiler End-2

I could not understand why the domed boiler end would not fit into the cylindrical boiler shell.  After all, I had carefully measured the required diameters, and precisely made the wooden form, and I used a heavier hammer to finish the bending the flange.    But the bent over flange still remained too big to fit into the cylinder by about 1mm.

A phone call to my expert friend Stuart provided the answer.  Of course!   When you make a 7″ disk fit into a 6″ space (roughly speaking), the material has to go somewhere.  The material thickens up!

So back to the lathe.

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Skimming the surface until it fits into the boiler cylinder.  Turning copper, I discovered, requires a very sharp cutter, and low rpm’s.  The relief on the cutter was too severe, so I flatttened the cutting edge when sharpening it.   Those chatter marks occurred at 600 rpm but vanished at 300 rpm. 

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And at this point it was an easy sliding fit, perfect for silver soldering later on.  I also polished the surfaces for the photo.  Those hammer marks were more persistent than I expected.  Probably just as well that it will be painted.    The scrathches on the turned face were from test fitting the end in the cylinder.

AND ON A DIFFERENT SUBJECT…..

Reader Tim sent me some photos of this lathe which he has aquired.  Looks like a quality machine.  And I look forward to seeing it after restoration.

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Trevithick Boiler End

The first part to be made for the Trevithick dredger engine is the domed end of the boiler.  It is formed from copper plate which is 3mm thick.  first a circle is marked out, then bandsawn from the copper plate.

I decided to make a wooden form.  Fortunately I have a CNC lathe (see earlier posts about the CNC conversion of a manual lathe), so drawing the profile and generating the G code using Ezilathe was, well, easy.

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CNC’ing the wooden form for the boiler end plate.  The roughing steps.  Carbide tip which has been sharpened to a cutting edge, suitable for wood.

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This is the final roughing cut, and starting the finishing cut.

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CNC turning.  Light sanding required to remove the fur.  The wood is European oak.  Central hole for a locating pin.

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The oak form was attached to a red gum block which was held in a 6″ vise.  I have already commenced shaping the copper disk here.  The copper is cramped to the oak form after annealing, and gradually hammered to shape.  Tapped rather than hammering.

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My “forge” is a few fire bricks in a steel shell, and a roof of steel to help retain the heat.  The torch is fuelled with propane.  It was originally a weed flamer, used to burn serrated tussock.

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Red heat was achieved in 90 seconds.  This is 600 degrees centigrade.  copper melts at 1084c, so there is a good safe margin.  I quenched to cool, for speed.

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This welder’s clamp proved to be the most effective method of holding the copper disk to the form.  I fitted  copper and  brass heads to the tapping hammer to minimise the chance of “bruising” the copper.

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Progress

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About 10-12 heating-hammering cycles in 1.5 hours to get to this stage.

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Getting close.  I will finish it tomorrow.  Might wash up before cooking dinner.

Home Made Ring Roller, and first attempts at bronze brazing.

The two projects for which I am currently accumulating materials, will require rolling copper sheet and rod into circular shapes.

A few years back I made a ring roller to make components for steel gates, and it would have been perfect for rolling the copper foundation rings and fireboxes.

It is fairly heavy duty roller, powered by a 1/2 HP motor, geared down 1:40.  I have bent mild steel up to 1/2″ thick 4″ wide, but I founds its limits when I tried to bend some hardened rod.   It left some grooves in the rollers.   And those grooves would imprint marks into the soft copper, which would be totally unacceptable in the two boiler projects.

So yesterday I disassembled the machine, removed the rollers, and turned the rolling surfaces in the lathe until the grooves vanished.  The 31.75mm diameter finished at 30.4mm.  Nice and regular and smooth.  And working smoothly again.

Pretty mundane stuff eh?  But oddly satisfying.

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BRONZE BRAZING

And after that I tried my hand at bronze brazing joins in copper parts.   The boiler inspector requires that certain joins in the boilers use bronze brazing, instead of silver soldering.  I am now reasonably proficient with silver soldering, and had no experience with bronze brazing.  So, do I try to learn a new skill and use it on my expensive copper components of the boilers?   Or do I pay an expert to do the bronze brazing for me?

Well, I decided to buy some bronze rods and flux, and give the bronze brazing a try on some copper scrap.  The AMBSC boiler code requires the use of Tobin bronze.  Local welding suppliers had never heard of it, but I found a supplier on ebay.

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Tobin bronze is another name for Naval Bronze. (according to my quick Internet “research”).  It is relatively resistant to corrosion, and very strong.  Actually much stronger than silver solder and with a much higher melting point.  Silver solder is said to be as strong as the parent metal, so bronze must be awesome.  Bronze will fill gaps, indeed a V gap is desireable, wheras silver solder prefers an even, tiny space which the solder fills by capillary action.

The brazing rods are available in diameters 1.6, 2.4, and 3.2mm.  I had no idea which size would be best, so I bought 1.6 and 2.4mm.  I also bought some 303 flux powder, even though some experts say that flux is not necessary.  OK, lots to learn.  (p.s. flux IS necessary. )

So, onto YouTube, and watching multiple tutorials on bronze brazing copper.  I reckon that YouTube is fantastic for learning new skills.

With silver soldering, the solder goes to the areas which are fluxed.  But, it seems that when bronze brazing, the bronze follows the heat, so the application of heat is critical.  And not just where the heat is applied, but how much.  The thing is, that the parent metal is not melted in either process (unlike welding).   When bronze brazing copper the temperature range between succesful brazing and melting the parent metal (which means disaster) is quite narrow (about 100ºc), and the brazing temperature is about 950ºc, so it is tricky.

And copper is an excellent heat conductor, so the heat spreads rapidly through the parent metal, with result that the bronze filler spreads and it is difficult to get a good appearance.

Here are the results of my first efforts.

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The copper is 3mm thick.  The bronze filler is not pretty, but this is my first ever effort.  I discovered that you cannot actually see the molten puddle until you have moved on a bit, and by then it is easy to have applied too much filler.

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I cut across the join to check the adequacy of the brazed join.  I was quite pleased to see that there were no gaps or voids.  Also, although the bronze filler looks ugly on the surface, it is actually fairly flat, and should be insignificant when painted.   You can see the V which was prepared in the edges of the join.

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Next I tried an angle join.  Looks neater, but not enough bronze filler at one end.  USB for scale.

OK, looking promising, but what about thin copper?  Will that just melt away?  By the way, my heat source is oxy-acetylene.  I tried MAP gas with air, but got nowhere near enough heat.  Oxy-acetylene burns at 3500ºc and copper melts at 1083ºc so it is not difficult to end up with an ugly, expensive blob of copper and bronze.

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This is 1/4″ pipe with a 0.7mm wall.   No problemo.

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and the final test for the day was end joining the 1/4″ pipe.  The hardest aspect was holding them in position.  Quite happy with this.

I tried both 1.6 and 2.4mm bronze filler rod diameters, and for this scale job I preferred the 1.6mm.  The  joins were significantly lumpier with the 2.4mm.

So, with a bit more practice I think that I might be able to bronze braze where necessary on the vertical boiler and the Trevithic dredger engine.

P.S.  Those readers who know about brazing will get a laugh.  I did the brazing without dark glasses!  None of the tutorials mentioned that dark glasses allow you to see what is happening in the molten puddle.  I found out about dark glasses at my model engineering club club meeting last night.  John.

 

 

 

 

 

Bolton 7

For reader Timothy, I hope that these photos answer your query.

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The Bolton7 was my first attempt at engine building.  As you can see, the finish leaves a lot to be desired.

Another Use for Magnets

I purchased some bronze disks for use in the model Trevithick dredger engine.  The disks 204mm diameter had been bandsawn off rod.  I had specified minimum thicknesses of 7mm and 12mm.  One disk was 9.2-9.7mm thick and the other was 12-15mm thick.

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The bandsawn blanks of LG2 bronze.

In preparing the disks for machining I filed off a few protrusions, and using a straight edge, identified the valleys and ridges.

The thicker disk was held in the 3 jaw chuck and both faces were turned flat with no problems except avoiding the needles which were thrown off in a wide arc around my lathe.  Final thickness 12.5mm.  A persisting divot should be able to be avoided in the final part.

The thinner disk needed to be packed out from the jaws of the chuck by 4-5mm in order that the lathe tool  cleared the jaws during machining.  In the past I have used machined packing pieces, but it is always a fiddle to hold the workpiece, the 3 packing pieces and the chuck key in only 2 hands.  Today I had a brainwave.

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I used rare earth magnets!

I tried to measure the thickness of the magnets, but they are so powerful that I was not confident that I was getting accurate readings.  So I just used them and measured the thickness of the finished workpiece.

I am sure that this idea is not original.  But it is to me.

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Here is the thin workpiece held in the 3 jaw, and packed away from the chuck by rare earth magnets.  Of course the magnets are attracted only to the jaws, and not the bronze workpiece, which helps, but I will try this on steel later.  Should work for magnetic metals also.

After machining both faces I took various measurments of the workpiece thickness.  The measurements in mm were 8.73, 8.68, 8.69, 8.72, 8.70, 8.72.   Not perfect, but not too bad at all.   I wonder if I might have improved the measurements by surface grinding the magnets.  I wonder if the chuck and its jaws are contributing to the variation.  It was certainly an easy method.

If the workpiece had been thinner I could have increased the thickness of the packing by doubling up the magnets.

For those who are following the Trevithick Dedger Engine build, the bronze was not cheap.  The 12-15mm disk was $AUD90 and the 9mm disk was about $AUD80.  From George White P/L, Melbourne.  I will be nervously trying to not muck up the machining.

A New (to me) Tool

One aspect of our weekly GSMEE meetings (Geelong Society of Model and Experimental Engineers) is that I learn something new at every meeeting.  The exposure to new information is not too surprising considering that our group has members who are or were a machinery designer, mechanical engineer, CNC operator, marine engineer, aircraft mechanic, a quarry operator, gun enthusiasts, a fireman and various other areas of expertise.  Even a bee keeper.  And even a retired gynaecologist.

Recently Neil brought in a boiler which was assembled but not yet soldered.  And it was held together with spring loaded clamps the like of which I had never before seen.  Some other members were also very interested in the clamps, which are, apparently, extensively used in aircraft panel assembly and repair, and also in car body work repairs.

boiler clecos

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Neil’s boiler end plates, clamped together.

The clamps are called CLEKOS or CLECOS.  They are easily applied and removed and are reusable.  They are used for temporary joining of materials to facilitate marking, drilling, riveting, soldering, welding or gluing.  Exciting to me because I can see many applications in model engineering and wooden toy making.

The Clecos come in a variety of sizes and configurations.

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This Cleco requires a 1/8″ hole, and will join materials up to 1/2″ total thickness.  This type joins 2 or more pieces of material which have a hole drilled as small as 2.5mm up to 5mm.  The range of hole sizes may be larger than I am aware.   Only one face of the materials needs to be accessible, so the Cleco can be used to fasten material to a closed container such as a boiler.   It is spring loaded and requires a tool to apply and remove it.  Application and removal is very quick.  Any materials which will accept a drilled hole can be used-  metal, wood, cardboard.  It would not work with easily compressed material such as foam rubber.  The application pliers are available on Ebay and are inexpensive.

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This spring loaded Cleco looks particularly interesting.  The clamps are small, have clamping thickness of 20mm and a reach of 1/2″ to 1″.  Again, they are not expensive ($AUD7-11), and very quick to apply and remove.  Surprisingly powerful grip would be quite adequate for gluing or riveting or soldering.

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Some Clecos do not require the application pliers but use a wing nut.

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And others use a hex nut.  Anyone know why there is a copper surface coating?

The Clecos are surpisingly inexpensive.  On Ebay I have seen the spring loaded fasteners as cheap as $AUD1 each, and the pliers at $AUD15.    I bought a kit comprising pliers and 20 fasteners for $AUD49.  Ebay UK has the best selection and many have free postage.  The range on US sites is good, but postage costs assigned by Ebay are astronomical.

(A reader has commented……

The Clecos and other skin pins are colour coded, silver 3/32, copper colour 1/8; Black 5/32′ gold 3/16 brown 1/4…..     thankyou “someone”.)

 

 

Trevithick Dredger Engine Flywheel

You must forgive me for rushing this blog.  I do feel rather pleased to have made a start on the Trevithick Dredger Engine.

The first part for the TDE was waterjet cut from 6mm mild steel.  I emailed the DXF drawing Tues, it was cut out Wed and picked up today.  Impressive service from Colin and Sandy at Waterjet Geelong.    340mm diameter.  The finish of the cut is so good that some light filing and rounding the sharp edges is all that will be required.  I will machine the bore hole after the shaft is made.  The magazine article is my workshop copy.  It will not remain this pristine for long.

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The thinness of the flywheel is a Trevithick characteristic.

Buying Copper Pipe for Model Boilers

My next 2 projects require 150mm (6′) copper pipe for the boilers.  The Trevithick dredger engine will operate at only 30psi so the wall thickness needs to be only 2mm thick to comply with the AMBSC regulations.  But the other project, the vertical test boiler will operate at 100psi and the copper needs to be a minimum of 2.5mm thick, or preferably 3.0mm or 3.2mm.

I had purchased a 350mm long x 2.8mm wall thickness piece of 6″ copper pipe at an engineering club swapmeet, so I thought that would be OK for the test boiler, but when I examined it closely I noted some scribed lines from the previous owner’s intended project.  There were also some drilled holes, but they can  be used or filled.  The scribed lines were unacceptable, so thinking that they were not very deep I carefully skimmed the cylinder surface on the lathe.

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The headstock end is held lightly in the 3 jaw chuck.  The tailstock is centered in a piece of fitted Delrin.

Taking off 0.05mm per pass, and using a sharp Diamond lathe tool (from Eccentric Engineering), when the marks finally were removed, the wall thickness was down to 2.45mm, just below the minimum thickness for the test boiler.  Bummer!  I can use that piece for the lower pressure Trevithic engine, but what to use for the test boiler?

So I contacted every Australian copper pipe supplier that I could see on the Internet, every model engineering vendor, and visited every plumbing supplies vendor in my region.  2mm thick pipe is available but nothing thicker.  Then to overseas suppliers.  Eventually I located some at MaccModels Engineering Supplies in the UK.  £7.67 per inch for the 3.2mm x 6″.  So my 12″ piece will be almost £95 ($AUD190) plus postage.  I took the opportunity to stock up a few other sizes which I will need for the 2 projects.  Postage came to $AUD170.   A bit painful.

So, to end this expensive story, my 3.2mm thick copper pipe is on its way.  I do feel a bit guilty about the Avgas being burnt to get it here, the kilogram x kilometers of air pollution and CO2.  And the annoyance that it is quite possible that the copper ore was mined in Australia, but I had to go to the other side of the world to buy a bit of the manufactured product.  Or is copper still mined in the UK?

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Gradually accumulating the materials.  The copper sheets and disks are 3mm thick.  The square section rod is for the boiler foundation ring.  I don’t want to start cutting until I have all of the materials.

The OTHER NEXT PROJECT

In the previous post I showed the boiler which I am intending to build.

In this post I will show you the steam engine which I also intend to build when I have AMBSC approval and I have accumulated the materials.  I have discussed the plans with the boiler inspector, and am in the process of redrawing the plans taking into account the required modifications so it can be run at public exhibitions.

It is the TREVITHICK DREDGER ENGINE, at 1 in 8 scale.

This was designed by Richard Trevithick, and made in 1806,   It was the first high pressure steam engine.  It also employed a steam blower, cylindrical boiler, safety valve, and many other innovations.  Incredibly, the engine worked in its first iteration.   Richard Trevithick was indeed a genius, although relatively unrecognised in his own lifetime, and for almost 2 centuries since.

Here is the earliest drawing which I could locate of the dredger engine.

It is from an encyclopedia which was published in 1818.

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This is a drawing of a Trevithick dredger engine which was reconstructed in 1885, with some errors, including the bent connecting rods..   Of particular interest is the piston-cylinder assembly which is partly encased by the boiler to minimise heat loss. The large, thin, flywheel is a characteristically Trevithick feature.

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The Trevithick engine as reconstructed, and as it is displayed in the London Science Museum today.  The blacksmiths who formed the domed boiler end, pentrated by the cylinder assembly must have been incredibly skilled.  (ps.  note added 10/4/19.  The domed end was a casting which included the cylindrical sides, and the flange at the chimney end.  It was not forged by blacksmiths.)

The Trevithick Dredger Engine was drawn at 1:16 scale by Tubal Cain in 1987, and modelled by him. His plans were published in “Model Engineer” magazine.

It was redrawn by Julius Dewaal at 1:8 scale and published on the Internet in 2016.  The plans are currently freely available on Google Images, as 9 pages of A3 plans.  The plans are beautifully drawn, but require some modification to comply with current AMBSC regulations.  I am currently redrawing the Dewaal plans with the necessary modifications.  When they are approved I will detail the modifications.  A 1:8 scale the flywheel is 340mm diameter (13.4″).

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A schematic drawing of the engine, as it was reconstructed.

So, watch this space.  Getting the plans finalised and the boiler approved will take some time, as well as gathering the materials.  From my preliminary discussions with the boiler inspector I will need to learn how to braze in bronze, and I will document that process.  Finding a supplier of phosphor bronze in the required sizes is proving difficult, and I might have to settle for the nicer to machine, but weaker, LG2 bronze.  If any reader knows of a supplier of cold rolled phosphor bronze sheet 200mm wide and 6-8mm thick, I would be delighted to hear about it.

Triple retrospective

This post is for reader Roy, who asked how the triple expansion engine columns and base and cylinder blocks were aligned, and also about joint sealants.

To be honest, I did not really remember the details, but the posts on or close to Feb 2015 include the following photos.  The aluminium plates were precisely machined keep the column faces exactly separated by the final width.  The plates were bolted to the columns, then to each other.   I lined up the join in the plates with the center of the main bearing housings in the base plate.

The longitudinal alignment with the cylinder bores was determined by the precise drilling in the tops of the columns, and the cylinder base covers.  And a little longitudinal movement in the crankshaft allowed for a few thou discepancy.

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And this is what I used to steam proof the joins.  I used no gaskets.  The Loctite 567.  It was recommended by an expert friend who uses it on full size steam engines (thanks Tom!).  The Loxeal 58.11 is also excellent but it sets very hard, and is very difficult to separate later.

 

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BOILER FOR MODEL STEAM ENGINES

Now that the model triple expansion engine is working on steam, I feel able to put it aside, again, and move onto the next project.  The triple is not quite finished.  It needs cylinder lagging, control rods for the cylinder drain cocks, drain tubes for the cylinder drains, and an extra pump for the condenser cooling, and some paint, possibly.

It also needs a boiler.  I would like to exhibit the triple at club demonstrations and public exhibitions, but for that I need a boiler which is certified by our boiler safety authority.  So I intend to make a boiler to AMBSC code, and big enough for the triple or any other engines which I might make in the foreseeable future.

This is what I have in mind….

boiler assembly

This is a copper boiler with a 152mm (6″) diameter barrel, a superheater, gas or coal fueled, and firetubes (most not shown).  The plans call for a 5″ barrel, but I have been unable to find any suitable copper tube, and I have some 6″, so that is what will be used.  I am currently drawing up the plans.

The certification process here in Australia requires the following steps:

  1. Preliminary discussion with the boiler inspector (done)
  2. Submission of 2 sets of plans to the boiler inspector.  If acceptable, one set is signed off and stamped and returned.  The other set is held by the inspector.
  3. Inspection of the prepared components by the inspector prior to soldering/brazing/welding.
  4. Inspection of the firebox and tube assembly after soldering/brazing/welding.
  5. Inspection of the barrel and outer wrapper after soldering/brazing/welding.
  6. Testing the boiler after completion.  This involves a hydrostatic test, at double working pressure for 20 minutes, then a steam test at 10% above working pressure.

If it passes, the boiler is certified for 12 months, after which it must be retested.  If it passes the retest it is certified for 3 years.

The certification process is performed by volunteer inspectors attached to model engineering clubs, and is done at no cost.

However the materials for a boiler like this are quite costly.  I managed to obtain some  copper tube for the wrapper, and bought some copper plate for the firebox and boiler ends on Ebay.  Bronze for the bushes from a local bearing supplier (LG2), and firetube copper tube from local plumbing supplies.  All up, so far, is approaching $AUD1000.  And yet to be factored is the safety valve, various cocks, sight gauge, hand pump silver solder.  And I intend to make and fit a steam driven feeder pump, and possibly a steam injector.

If there is any interest in this project I will post progress notes and photos.  Let me know.

Small Tube Bender

 

I have recently been busy installing a steam powered water injector on the 3″ Fowler traction engine.  Involved quite a few bends in 1/4″ copper pipe.

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Some of the new pipework on the traction engine.  Since this photo, I have also made the winch functional.  (pics of that in future post)

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Hand pipe benders.

I was not totally satisfied with the regularity in the bends, or the straightness of the runs in the pipe.  That provoked some discussion at our model engineering group, and one member (Stuart T) showed us the pipe bender which he had made some years ago.

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Pipe bender designed and made by Stuart Tankard.

 

As you can see it has a  heavy duty frame,  shoulder bolts holding the rolls with machined slots for various sized pipe, and a 19mm hex connector for the driving battery drill.  A demonstration of pipe bending on this machine convinced me of its superiority to the hand held benders

Fortunately for me Stuart still had the plans which he had drawn up, so I made my own bender.  I made a couple of changes to Stuart’s design.  I made a 1/4″ hex on the driving screw, to accept the commonly used connector for battery drills.  And I did not have any suitable bronze for the main bush, so I made a brass bush, which incororated  a thrust ball bearing which engages during the bending procedure.  Probably unecessary but it was there in my junk drawer so I used it.

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The radius of the bend in the tube is determined by the radius of the roll.  1″, 3/4″ and 1.5″.  Each radius has grooves for 1/8″ 3/16″ 1/4″ 5/16″ 3/8″ and 1/2″ tube.  Since then I have also made 2″ rolls.

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Aluminium rod for the rolls.  

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Using a bearing to centralise the tailstock end before center drilling.

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The lathe tools used to make the grooves.

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3 rolls turned from each length, with an allowance for parting.  Then drilled and reamed, and parted in a lathe big enough for the 2″ bar to be securely held.

 

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Completed bender.  The wooden box keeps the components organised.  Not a tribute to the craft of wood working but it will do.   The vacant pegs are for 2″ rolls which are yet to be made.

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The raw materials for the tool.  1″ X 3″ and 1″ square mild steel, and 1/2″ silver steel.

The bender is held in a bench vice.  The bending process is quick and controllable using a variable speed battery drill.

The symmetry of the rolls (as opposed to the asymmetry of the hand held tools) means that the centre and the mid point of the bend is totally predictable.

Since then, I have made some further changes in the design of the pipe bender.

  1. I have added some feet so it sits squarely on the bench and does not require a vice for support, although it can be held in a vice if preferred.  The tool is quite heavy, so small jobs can be managed without a vise.
  2. I drilled and threaded some extra holes, to accept 2 rows of 3 rolls.  See the photo below.  That pipe bender has now become a pipe straightener.  I made some extra rolls, so now there are 6 rolls of the 2″ size.  As long as the 3 rolls in each row are identical, the rolls in the 2 rows can be different for the straightening process, but ideally there should be 6 rolls for each pipe diameter.  Straightening copper pipe is easy, as long as there are no kinks or very sharp bends, and the copper must be annealed.  The pipe should be approximately hand straightened, cut to length plus about 2″, then pulled through the rolls which have been adjusted so the rows  are almost touching.  3 or 4 passes, with some rotation of the pipe each time results in a near perfect straight pipe.   Any slight residual bend can be eliminated by rolling the pipe on a flat surface.

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Some extra threaded holes added pipe straightening to the tools functionality.

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Two rows of rolls are needed to straighten bent pipe.  So I made 3 extra wheels in 1/4″ and 3/16″ sizes.  Later I realised that the extra three rolls do not have to be identical diameter to the first three, as long as each triple are identical.  The tool straightened this bend quite nicely, although with some experience, I would now probably hand straighten it a bit before putting in the tool. 

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After 2 or 3 passages.

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And some rotation with each pull through

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The copper does have to be annealed to get a good result.

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And to put a bend in that nice straight tube…  some shuffling of the roll positions….attach the drill (slow speed setting)

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And a quick and easy bend. 

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Pretty good

 

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The underside.  Substituted cap screws for grubscrews, so the tool sits flat on the benchtop.  quite adequate for light bending jobs, but straightening needs a vise.

 

Scale Traction Engine – installing a steam powered boiler injector.

My 3″ Fowler R3 Traction Engine boiler can be filled with a hand pump from the tender tank, by a crankshaft powered pump from the tender tank, or by a battery powered electric pump from the driver’s trailer.   The full size original R3 (see previous post for photos) has a steam powered injector, which uses boiler steam to suck up water from the tender tank using a venturi effect, then using black magic passing the steam+ water through some cones, increases the pressure which forces the mixture back into the  boiler.

Here is a link to a YouTube site which sort of explains how the black magic works.

And this is the steam injector on the full size R3 Fowler.

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And this is the injector which I bought for the 3″ scale Fowler.

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It is a vertical injector, with connections for 1/4″ (6.35mm) pipes.  But I did not use it because it protruded too far underneath the tender.  So I have used an identically sized horizontal injector, which is shown below, during installation.  The full size original also appears to be horizontal.   The black fitting connected is the water inlet valve.  The control handle will extend above the rim of the cockpit.

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The red thing is the winch, and its driving disk.  Winch engaging pins have never been completed, another job for later.  The rear wheel has been removed.  The injector pipework passes between the winch drum and the hornplate, with just enough clearance.  Running the pipe around the brake axle seemed like a good idea at the time, but I am not so sure now.  When painted black it will not look so odd.   The water connection with the tender tank is yet to be made, as is the steam supply connection.  A few more hours.

How to time a Model Triple Expansion Steam Engine

The daunting aspect of timing the triple delayed the completion of mine by at least 6 months.  In the event, it was not difficult.

If timing a steam engine is not a particular concern of yours, I suggest that you turn off now.   Otherwise this will be particularly boring.  This post is in response to a request by a reader.

The engine needs to be pretty much completed and assembled.   Everything fitting.  Crankshaft rotating.  Valve rods tightened.  Stephenson’s reversing mechanism assembled and working. Cylinder drains installed.

Next I suggest that you make or buy a 360 degree protractor, and attach it to the crankshaft at the high pressure end.  Like this.

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Note that top dead centre (TDC) of each piston is marked (H,I,L), there is a pointer, big marks at 120 degree intervals, and identifiable marks at 10 and 5 degree intervals.  I added a rotation arrow later, because it is easy to mistake clockwise and anticlockwise directions when making adjustments.

Next, decide where in the cycle you want steam to be admitted.  On expert advice from a marine engineer who is also a model engineer, I decided to admit steam at 10 degrees after TDC. (thanks Rudi!).  I also decided to cut off admission of steam at about 70% of the  power stroke. (pretty standard).

The easiest valve to time is the low pressure valve.  It is on the end of the engine.  It is the biggest, and there is not much engine stuff getting physically in the way.  Despite that, I decided to start with the high pressure valve.  It also is on the outside end of the engine.  The reason is that I wanted to follow the passage of the steam flow, in order to understand what was happening.  Each cylinder is timed separately, independently.  So the order is, high pressure, intermediate pressure, low pressure.  Forward direction first, then reverse, for high, then F & R for IP, then F&R for LP.

The timing is adjusted by 1. changing the distance between the crankshaft and the valve, usually by adjusting the length of the valve rod and 2. by changing the position of the eccentric on the crankshaft.

Firstly, the valve must move equally over the steam inlet slots. (the top and bottom ports). The point at which the inlet slot starts to open is noted on the protractor for both steam inlet ports.  The number of degrees before or after TDC is noted for the top port, and the procedure is repeated for the bottom port.   For the bottom port Bottom Dead Centre (BDC) is the reference point on the protractor.  The angle should be identical for TDC and BDC.  If it not identical the length of the valve rod needs to be adjusted.  On my machine, that was done by adjusting the nuts holding the valve rod to the valve bracket, but it could be the valve rod to the eccentric strap.

Determining the point at which the steam inlet port starts to open is easy.  Remove the valve chest cover, bolt the valve chest to the cylinder block, and rotate the crankshaft by hand until the port is obviously visually open.  Cut a sliver of paper 5-10mm wide, (I used copy paper), measure the thickness of the paper (0.1mm in my case), insert the paper into the open port, rotate the crankshaft to close the port until the paper is jammed, then while applying tension to the paper, slowly rotate the crankshaft to open the port, until the paper just starts to move.  At that point the port will be open by the thickness of the paper.

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The valve cover is off, a sliver of paper is pushed a centimeter or so into the port, the crankshaft is rotated to jam the paper then the crankshaft is rotated in the direction that is being adjusted until the paper is just released.   At that point the port is open by the thickness of the paper.  I calculated that 0.1mm was equivalent approximately to 3 degrees of crankshaft rotation.  So whatever was displayed on the protractor, I subtracted 3 degrees to get to the exact point of port opening.

when the valve moves exactly equally up and down over the steam entry ports, the point of opening is noted on the protractor relative to TDC of BDC, depending on which is being measured.

The eccentric grubscrew needs to be loosened, and  rotated on the crankshaft to bring the point of port opening to 10 degrees past TDC.  Then the grubscew is tightened.  BDC will automatically be correct if the centering process has been done accurately.

I had bored a hole in the eccentric strap to allow access to the grubscrew from underneath the engine.  That meant that the crankshaft had to be in a certain position to allow access to the grubscrew, not necessarily TDC or BDC or whatever.  That does not matter.  What matters is that the eccentric is rotated a certain number of degrees on the crankshaft.  I did this by using the Allen key to loosen the grubscrew, then using the Allen key to hold the eccentric fast, while rotating the crankshaft.  Then tighten the grubscrew, being careful to not move the eccentric.   The measurements need to be rechecked of course.   With practice, it is not difficult, and can be accomplished first go in most cases.

If this all sounds complicated and difficult, it really is not.  But I did need to make a record of every step and measurement and direction.

For the intermediate cylinder, the HP cylinder block needs to be removed.  The HP valve chest can be retained, just swung out of the way, retaining the previous settings..  You have to be careful, but this method does save a heap of bother.

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One thing I would suggest.  When the opening points of both IP inlet ports are determined and set, I suggest that before the HP cylinder block is reassembled, that the IP valve rod is measured above the IP valve chest.  And that the measurements are recorded and placed in a secure vault.  Those measurements can be used for any future adjustments of the IP valve, without the time consuming and very fiddly necessity of removing the HP cylinder block.

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I have determined the opening points for the intermediate cylinder using the paper method.  With the depth micometer on the valve rod above the valve chest, I am measuring and recording those positions, for possible future use.

And I have a confession.  The next photo shows the HP upper cylinder drain, and the same view at top dead centre.  As you can see, at TDC the piston blocks the drain.)!*!)  Read on.

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There is another method for determining the opening point of the valves.

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Plastic tubes are pushed on suitable points for the cylinder to be set, in this case the HP. The valve is pushed against the valve face, in this case with rubber bands.  One blows into the appropriate tube while rotating the crankshaft.  When the port starts to open, you can hear your exhaled breath coming through (if your hearing is OK, which mine is not).  The protractor reading is recorded, and used as before.   Note:  the drain cock passages MUST NOT be occluded by the piston at TDC or BDC.  In my case, this proved to be a problem, hence the use of the strip of paper method.

So, I hope that this is of some use.  If my description is jaberwocky, please send a message and I will try to help.    John.

First taste of steam for the MODEL TRIPLE EXPANSION ENGINE

I made a video of this first run, but I am experiencing great frustration uploading it, due to our totally pathetic Internet speeds here in Australia.  I will include it later in this post, but the resolution is way down.  I will upload a higher res version next weekend.

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Stuart Tankard’s superb gas fired vertical boiler, was also getting its first run powering a steam engine.

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We did not connect the condenser until later.

OK, so here is the video.  Again, apologies for the low res quality.

Model Triple Expansion Steam Engine. First taste of steam tomorrow!

I was very excited to see my triple running reasonably well on air recently.  But it was tight, and required a decent gutful of air pressure to turn it over.  But it did go!

Then it seized.

The cause was the intermediate cylinder valve rod seizing in its guide.  Probably a bit tight,and not getting any oil.

So I have loosened the gland, installed a displacement oiler, and made and installed a flywheel.  I also finished the pipework around the condenser.

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Displacement oiler top left, brass flywheel, and pipework.  The condenser on a marine engine would have been cooled with seawater, pumped with a separate pump, but I have used the 2 pumps on either side of the Edwards air pump.  In future I might install another pump.  The book “Marine Steam Engines and Turbines” has been been very useful.  

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I just like all of the brass and copper and components in this picture.

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The flywheel is too big for the scale, but my model does not have the weight and momentum of a propeller shaft and propeller, so a sizeable flywheel seemed appropriate.  Later I will add some gear teeth on the flywheel and a cranking handle on a removeable pinion, which some medium size engines had to assist with cranking to a starting position.  

So, tomorrow I will hook my triple up to Stuart Tankard’s vertical boiler, and see what happens.  I am sure that steam leaks will be revealed.  Hopefully there will be a video worth posting!

TRIPLE EXPANSION MODEL ENGINE- FIRST RUN (air)

This is a short video of the first run of the Bolton9 Model Triple Expansion Steam Engine, which I have been building on and off over the past 3 years.

The video is a bit shakey, because it is taken on my hand held phone while I am using he other hand to operate the controls.  I really did not expect the engine to work!

It runs a bit roughly, and is still quite tight, but settles down in the final few seconds.

It is not running very smoothly, because it is on air rather than steam, and because it is probably only powered on the high pressure cylinder, and maybe a bit on the intermediate, and not at all on the low pressure cylinder.

The next day it would not run.  Very frustrating.  I suspect that one of the eccentrics slipped on the crankshaft, and threw the timing out.  Not the easily accessible low or high pressure valve, but the intermediate one, which needs another teardown to get to it.

But Hey!  It will work.  I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

One of my readers has requested a description of the triple engine timing procedure, so that will appear on this blog soon.  Unless you have a particular need for the timing info I suggest that you give that post a miss.

Geelong Vintage Machinery and Classic Truck Show – day 2

The oiler on my traction engine failed today, so I did not run the teaction engine, and I had some time to look around the other displays.  The oiler failed due to some grit in the non return valve, easily fixed when I got it back to the workshop.

As always at this annual show, the trucks and classic cars are fabulous.

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Ford truck, with Caterpillar Traxcavator as load.

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Mercedes truck with a startling colour scheme.

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Must have been more than  50 magnificent trucks in the lineup.

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This is an original engine from a WW2 Liberator bomber.  It was run for a few minutes twice daily.  Must have been heard by the entire city.  Absolutely awesome sound.  I cannot imagine what 4 engines on a plane would sound like.   1300HP!   An entire Liberator airplane is currently being restored nearby.

 

All weekend, tractors were competing in a tractor pull test.  The load gradually increases, with the tractor pulling with all it its might, until it runs out of either power or traction.

The smell of diesel fumes, and the noise,  was magnificent.

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And my favourite, of course, was the mighty R3 Fowler.  In this instance effortlessly powering a large pump.

Geelong Classic Truck and Vintage Machinery Show. Day 1.

I was busy minding the 1:4 scale Fowler traction engine today, at the show, but these were a few items which were of particular interest to me, of the hundreds on display.  Not to mention the tractor pull, the Liberator WW2 engine demo, and the magnificent vintage trucks and cars.

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Peugeot 403.  My first car was one of these.  For its day it was reliable, rugged and advanced.  Won the first Redex rally across central Australia in 1956.

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Marshall Compound traction engine on low loader.  The traction engine is completely original, unrestored.  Needs a lot of work.

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Marshall smoke door

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Marshall engine

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Marshall pressure gauge

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Marshall, from the driver’s position.

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Fowler R3 and baby R3

Back to the Triple Expansion Steam Engine

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I installed these cylinder drains on the triple, but was not satisfied with their appearance because they looked too big.   So I bought some of a different pattern from Reeves UK.

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The new cylinder drains are smaller, and have a handle which is suitable for joining all 6 drains to one control handle.

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The new cylinder drains are a more realistic scale.  I suppose that I should have made them myself.  

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From above.  Getting them to line up was a fiddle.

 

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The crankshaft protractor now has a (temporary) pointer.  When the timing is finally adjusted, the protractor and pointer will be removed.  I am planning to make and install a crank positioning gear and pinion and lever.

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The crank positioning gear and pinion shaft on the full size, ship’s triple expansion steam engine at The Geelong Showgrounds.  It is on the low pressure end of the engine.  I will make something like this to act as a flywheel on my model triple.

More Wierd Stuff

Since my “Strange Lights over Geelong” experience I have been looking at all sorts of weird posts on YouTube.  UFO’s, crop circles, megalith structures, evidence of buildings on the moon and on Mars.  There is a mountain of information out there, and while a lot of it is lies and rubbish, some is harder to dismiss.   It is not inconceiveable that Governments have information which they are witholding from the general populace, about aliens, UFO’s, ancient civilisations and so on.  Indeed, there are YouTube interviews with ex astronauts about UFO’s on the moon, and ex government ministers and officials about UFO’s and aliens, and Rothwell.  It may well be that the current increased talkativeness is due to a recognition by governments that they can no longer keep a lid on the previously secret information, so they are gradually allowing people to talk.

One line of posts which I have followed is evidence that something is going on in Antarctica.

And one source of information is Google Earth.  One post related to a strange set of giant “steps”.  I checked on the post information by checking the coordinates in Google Earth.

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Look at the middle of the photo.  That series of “steps” does look unusual.  You can check on this yourself by entering the coordinates on the photo into Google Earth.   The “staircase is about 2.5km long, with each step about 250 meters.

Anyway, to continue with my story, as I was zooming out from this point, I noticed a bright shape about 138km towards the south.

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The object which caught my eye was the white rectangle above the word “Coast”.  This section of Antarctica is directly south of Western Australia.  The rectangle is about 380 km from the coast.

And this is what shows up on Google Earth as I zoomed in.

Antarctica 6 Jan 2018 #2.jpg

The image is from 1999.  The black rectangle is 21 x 7km…  Quite a size!   I am unsure what the bright white is.  Possibly sunlight reflecting off a shiny surface.  Or a rough attempt at concealing the rectangular area?    This is at latitude 70.2 S, longitude  87.2 E.

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Also, there is a faint streak from the rectangle heading about 100km to the east.  It is also 7km wide.     The staircase area is also visible to the north.

So that is it.  I can find no reference to this structure, but if anyone knows anything about it, please enlighten me.   If you have any interest in this weird stuff, you might the posts on YouTube by SecureTeam10 worth watching.

I am heading back into the workshop tomorrow.  Installing a steam powered boiler water injector on the Fowler traction engine, and bit by bit, finishing the triple expansion engine.

I have installed the new AC Servo motor to replace the spindle motor on the Boxford 125TCL CNC lathe, my expert friend Stuart Tankard has wired it up and reconfigured Mach3.  I am delighted to report that it has vastly improved the CNC lathe.  Will post some pics in a day or two.

A New Spindle Motor for Boxford 125TCL CNC lathe.

The spindle motor on my 33 year old Boxford CNC lathe has struggled to machine steel, although it copes with brass OK.  My expert friend has recently upgraded his machine (identical to mine) with a new spindle motor, and I will do likewise.

The new motor is a 750 watt Servo, bought on Ebay from China.

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It is more powerful than the original DC motor, small enough to fit the limited space in the 125TCL, and my friend reports that it is performing very well indeed.

Some modifications to the mounting system and drive pulleys and electronic controls will be required.

For reader Tom, who is upgrading a 125TCL as a school project, I include the following photo.

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On-off switch of the 125TCL.

Triple Expansion Steam Engine Cylinder Cocks

Some further progress on the triple.

I bought cylinder cocks from Reeves UK, and the picture shows them fitted.  In case I eventually install a mechanism to open all of the cocks simultaneously, they are in straight line, which necessitated making extension peices for the high pressure cylinder cocks.

The handles required bending to clear the pipework.

The cocks look a bit strange to me.  Too big, and the handles are wrong.   I am thinking about making a set from scratch.  But that can wait.

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Drain pipes from the cocks will be installed at some stage.  Still deciding where to run them. And whether to join them into a common trunk.

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The engine turns over by hand, but it is still a bit stiff.  There was a tight spot which took many hours to locate.  It turned out to be a valve rod thread which was about 0.5mm too long, touching the inside of the high pressure valve chest.   Fixed in a jiffy.

I hooked up the engine to a small compressor at 30psi, but general stiffness prevented the engine from rotating.  So I gave it an hour being rotated in the lathe at 200 rpm.  It is noticeably more free, and getting very close to working.  The valve timing is approximately correct (checked by my expert friends Thomas L, and Rudi V), but will need fine tuning at some stage.

Steam Trains in Colour

4 months ago I made 2 wooden trains for my identical twin grandsons.  I handed the trains to SWMBO for painting, and despite frequent proddings of the verbal type, she got around to painting them only a few days ago, just in time for the twins second birthday.

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The fuel in the coal tenders is chocolate.

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The twins are really into “diggers”.  Check out the birthday cake!  Chocolate icing and chocolate Smarties.   I want to be a kid again.

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The “coal” was a hit.  SWMBO knows the way to the male heart.

 

New Mechanical Oiler for Fowler Traction Engine

The oiler on my 3″ Fowler compound traction engine was working only intermittently.  I bought a new Foster Lincoln oiler, and today installed it.

The old oiler flange which attaches to the engine, was flexing, so I made a new one from 3mm stainless steel plate.  That will not flex.

The oiler is powered off the high pressure cylinder valve rod.  Different geometry was required.  I could have modified the original valve rod clamp and arm, but just in case I wanted to revert to the old configuration I made a new clamp and arm.

It all fitted nicely and the ratchet wheel clicked over as required when the engine was turned over.  So I completed the installation by silver soldering an oil delivery pipe to the valve chest.

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The original oiler

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The new oiler

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Hmm…  that delivery pipe needs to be straightened.  Sacks of coal in the background.

Recycling Leather

I am a fan of Stefan Gotteswinter’s You Tube blog, amongst others. (the others include This Old Tony, Abom79, ClickSpring,  Joe Pieczynski, AVE, NYC CNC, mrpete, ……   you should know all of these if you are interested in metalworking).

But back to Stefan.   One of his hints some time back, was to use a piece of leather to protect his lathe bed under the chuck.   I adopted his idea, and I found that it was very effective.  It does protect the bed from dropped chuck keys, parted chunks of metal etc.  It is also handy for preventing small parted work pieces from disappearing into the swarf which hangs around under the bed.

Only problem was that the best piece of leather which I could find was from an old overnight bag, and it really was old, and thick, and stiff.

Some time ago, SWMBO gave me the job of dealing with a couch which had seen better days.  We were quite fond of the couch, as it had been used by our family for at least 3 decades.  But our beagle was also fond of it.  Sleeping on it,  digging holes in it, and it had become pretty disgusting, despite repairs.  So it became my workshop couch for midday naps.  But that change of environment did not improve its condition either.   In fact I decided to take it to the tip (landfill).

But here we pay for landfill by volume, so I decided to break up the couch to reduce the volume, and maybe use the frame to fuel my workshop heater.

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Me.  Removing the leather upholstery.  

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Where the beagle liked to sleep.   Yuk.

So I now have quite a lot of supple leather.  Some will end up covering my lathe ways, held in place with magnets.

Any suggestions for using the remaining leather?

Traction Engine Oiler

The oiler which had been made for the 3″ Fowler compound steam engine looked OK, with a nice rounded brass cap, but despite various adjustments I could not induce it to work reliably.  The pawls were very thin brass, not hardened steel, and the supporting bracket was very thin sheet steel which had little resistance to flexing.

I decided to replace the oiler.   I could have made one from the engine plans, but when I saw some photos of these Foster Lincoln oilers on scale model traction engines, I decided to purchase.

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The one which I purchased was designed for a 4″ scale traction engine, bigger than my 3″ Fowler, but the external dimensions were similar to those specified on the Fowler plans, and the Fowler is a 2 cylinder engine.  So I decided to go “too big” than risk “too small”.

It arrived by mail today, from the U.K.   Cost £116 + £10 p&p from “Live Steam Models”.  Not cheap, but the quality appears to be excellent.   Heavy brass body, hardened steel pawls and ratchet wheel, stainless steel water drain, and a powerful spring operated pump.  The lid closes with good tight fit.  Some filing will be required on a cut edge of the lid, but no big deal.

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The pump in the oil cavity.

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Running in the Triple Expansion Engine

The Bolton 9 engine is assembled, almost completely.  The valves are approximately correctly timed.  I can turn it over by hand, just.  There are a few tight spots.

So today I mounted the entire engine in a lathe, oiled all bearings and slides, and tentatively ran it for a few minutes.   The lathe was set at 60rpm, in back gear.

All seemed OK, so I ran it for about 30 minutes.   Then increased the rpm to 90 for another 30 minutes.  After that the tight spots still exist, but much less pronounced.

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I kept a check on bearing temperatures with a laser thermometer, and none were running more than a degree or two different from any others.

The test did show that a low pressure cylinder drag link is touching the condenser, and will need some relief.  Also the high pressure cylinder eccentrics need to be repositioned a little on the crankshaft.  But nothing major.  And it was very nice to see everything moving in quite an impressive manner.

I will upload a video when the upload speeds are reasonable.

 

TRACTION ENGINE STUFF

My brother and I visited a well known local machinery enthusiast.  Some of my readers might be interested in the photos.

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An excavator from the 1940’s, due for restoration.

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Said to be incredibly noisy and heavy for the operator.

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Excavator diesel engine works.

 

My miniature Fowler traction engine does not have a steam injector and I am considering installing one.  So here are photos from a full size Fowler, and another from a  Ransomes traction engine.

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Fowler R3 steam injector, located near the bottom of the rear water tank.

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Ransomes injector located similarly.

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A pin, for a pin, for a pin, for a winch. (Fowler traction engine)

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Why do the boiler stays have holes bored into them?  When a stay breaks it usually occurs on the inside of the boiler.  The break can be undetected.  If there are blind holes bored like this, steam will escape through the hole if there is a fracture, revealing the problem.

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The countersink on the stay holes here is decorative only, serves no useful purpose, and probably weakens the stay.   The differential gear on the left is very worn, but still useable.

 

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Ransomes traction engine on the left, and Fowler R3 heavy haulage engine on the right.  2 tonne rear wheel removed and chained to the post, while transmission gears are being remachined.

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The ash pan from the Fowler R3, after 4 days of continuous steaming at the Geelong Show.  Of interest to me, because on my 3″ scale (1:4) Fowler the ash pan has been almost exactly scaled and I suspect that it would benefit from a redesign.

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Kelly single cylinder traction engine.  Working condition.

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Kelly engine.  Everything visible.  Note the very useful steam dome.

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Fowler R3 nameplate.  I can see something similar appearing on my 3″ Fowler.

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Front wheel on the Ransomes traction engine.  Both front wheels were torn off in an accident in 1920.  Going down a long steep grade at Shelford, Victoria, there was insufficient steam pressure to brake the traction engine towing a heavy load, so the driver deliverately crashed the engine into the road cutting, at considerable speed.  It was succesfully repaired by a blacksmith.  The driver survived.

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The Ransomes engine.  The “Rolls Royce” of traction engines, according to the owner. (But I suspect that he prefers his Fowler).

So, I hope that you found these pics interesting.  John.

Traction Engine Safety Valves

Some videos of showing the safety valves functioning, boiler pressures etc.in my Fowler 3″ scale R3 traction engine.

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Warrick Sandberg safety valves.  Substantially bigger holes.  “pop” action.

And one of the Fowler being driven by my brother.

SNORING

Stay with me.  This is about a machine.

For years, maybe decades, SWMBO has been complaining about my snoring, and demanding action.  From her description of the events in our bed, I was experiencing apnoeas (stopping breathing altogether) which lasted up to 20 -30 seconds each time. Sometimes SWMBO wondered if I would actually start breathing again.  Sometimes, she admitted, she wanted to hold a pillow over my head to quieten the snoring.

I have tried nose drops, plastic gadjets to widen my nostrils, elastic straps to support my lower jaw.  I even paid my dentist to make a prosthesis to stop my lower jaw from sagging backwards.  That prosthesis was expensive, and worked a bit.  But it became totally useless after I had some unrelated dental work which changed the fit.

I had heard about CPAP machines being used to treat snoring.  From my work as an obstetrician, I knew about these machines being used to help premature babies with their breathing.  CPAP is an acronym for Continuous Positive Airway Pressure.  It reduces the amount of effort required for each breath of the baby, and has saved many babies’ lives.    At some stage someone found out that CPAP is effective treatment for snoring.

Normally, to obtain a CPAP machine, one has to have sleep studies by spending a night in hospital hooked up to monitors, and be assessed by a medical specialist.

From my wife’s description I had no doubt about my diagnosis, and I decided to self diagnose and treat my condition.   “A lawyer who represents himself has a fool for a client”  also applies to doctors who treat themselves.  And normally I agree with that description.  But in this case I did not relish the thought of a night in hospital, which I was sure, would be pointless because it would be sleepless.

So I discussed my situation with my GP.  And I was pleasantly surprised when he said go ahead with my plan to buy a CPAP machine from overseas, and give it a try.

The CPAP machine cost me $AUD600.  If I had bought it locally it would have cost $AUD 1500-1600.  It arrived about 6 weeks after the order onEbay.  I had no idea what size face mask was required, so I ordered the “medium” size.  Turned out it was  a nose mask, and medium seemed to fit nicely.  The machine itself seemed well made.  All of the plastic bits fitted well.  The electronic screen was clear and lit up quickly on power up.  There was a CD for installation of the software on a Windows computer.  It installed and opened, but would not function.  An enquiry to the seller revealed that the computer time-date setting needed to be in YYYY-MM-DD format, and it all worked well after that.  The program asked for age, height, weight etc.  I was a bit insulted when my BMI of 27 was described as “FAT”.

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The CPAP machine and nose mask.   The tubing is much longer than shown.  The perspex tank contains water to humidify the inspired air.

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The CPAP machine

 

I could find no instructions, so I left the machine on the default settings.  Some weeks later I found an instruction booklet in a side pocket of the storage case, but it did not offer any information about settings.  I guess that normally there would be a doctor doing the settings, based on tests.   Fortunately I have a friend who is using a CPAP machine for sleep apnoea, and the default settings of my machine were very close to the ones which were prescribed for him, so I continued with the default settings.

First night.   I was warned by my friend that it takes about a month to become used to the CPAP, so I was not too perterbed by the mask and tubing waking me up every time I moved.  My wife had the best night’s sleep which she has had in years, because I did not snore AT ALL.  The machine makes a low whirring noise, which is barely noticeable.  Being forced to nose breath, because the positive pressure almost totally stops mouth inspiration, is a very odd sensation, but I was very aware that the 10cm of water pressure was profoundly affecting my breathing.  I was totally unable to deliberately snore while awake, and when asleep I was not snoring at all even when flat on my back.

First week.  I fiddled a bit with the pressures, but the default 10cm water pressure (0.14psi) seemed best.  I used the air humidifier.  The air is filtered.  Several times I woke and ripped the mask off, but after a month of use, that happens rarely.

First month.  I got the software working eventually, and I was delighted to see that I have had no snoring events or apnoea events at all.  My duration of sleep has gradually increased from an hour or two each night, to 5-6 hours per night.    My wife is absolutely rapt.   Her only complaint is that I sometimes remove the CPAP in the morning, then go back to sleep for another hour or two, during which time I revert to snoring.

I like to read in bed for an hour or more before I drop off to sleep.  I cannot wear my reading glasses with the CPAP in place.  So I read until I become sleepy, then pull on the mask and turn on the CPAP.  Usually I am asleep within minutes, which is a big improvement on pre-CPAP.

Either that, or I listen to podcasts with earplugs.  But the CPAP tubing and earplug cables do tend to get a bit tangled, so I usually read.  It helps to pin the CPAP tube to the pillow, with a lot of slack to allow for turning in bed.

So, after a month I have noticed that I never nap during the day, compared with most days pre-CPAP.  My tinnitus (ringing in the ears) is much less pronounced now.  I do not feel sleepy when driving.  I would like to say that my energy levels have improved, but that does not seem different.  I am hoping that my borderline high blood pressure will have settled, when next checked.

Overall, this has been a major improvement in my life. IFLT.  (technology, not Trump).

 

 

Traction Engine. New Parts.

Another quickie.

The new safety valves arrived today.  Warrick Sandberg valves.  I will install them later this week, and fire up the Fowler R3.

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The old safety valves.  Not up to the job.

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The new safety valves.  about the same dimensions but the exit holes are bigger and the spring tension is adjustable and lockable.  

And another thing.  I noticed this label near the pressure gauge of the full size Fowler R3.

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So I made this one today.  Slightly modified the information to suit my 3″ scale Fowler.

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My enamelling technique could improve, but it will do.

MAKING A PROTRACTOR for TRIPLE EXPANSION ENGINE VALVE TIMING

Just a quickie.

I am close to running my triple expansion steam engine, and I am thinking about what will be required to set the valve timing.

The high and low pressure cylinder valves can be visualised by removing the valve steam chest covers and should not be too much of a problem to set.

However, the intermediate valve steam chest is buried in the middle of the engine, and can be visualised only by close to totally dismantling the engine.

So I have made a protractor which has the 360 degree circle divided into 120 degree sectors, and single degrees, with 5 and 10 degree markers for easy counting.

The protractor will be mounted on the end or the crankshaft using 6 bolts located into 6 precisely drilled and tapped holes.

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The protractor.  100mm diameter aluminium plate.

When the high pressure cylinder valves are set, the degrees of rotation of the crankshaft will be noted, the crankshaft rotated 120º, and the intermediate cylinders valves set to the same settings.  At least that is the theory.  I am sure that it will be more complex than that.

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The triple expansion engine with the protractor attached.

I just wanted to show the completed protractor.  I have not stamped or engraved the degree numbers, because they would need to be in groups of 120º, and the protractor would therefore be a single use item.

 

The Boiler Inspector.

Today I loaded the Fowler 3R traction engine onto its trailer and drove to Werribee, to have an official inspection of the boiler.

This is not a legal requirement, because I can operate my traction engine  whenever I please on my own property.  But all model engineering Clubs and Societies require a current certificate before they will permit steam engines to be operated at their meetings.

The maker of my traction engine had the boiler inspected and passed about 18 months ago, but that certificate has now expired.  So it needed re-certification.

The original test pumped water into the boiler at double the maximum operating pressure to test the boiler for leaks and distortion.  The boiler is actually designed to withstand pressures of EIGHT times maximum operating pressure, so the safety factor is reassuring.

But, boiler explosions are horrific, so the caution is understandable.

My boiler is made of copper, thus avoiding the problem of steel boilers which gradually becomed thinned by rust.   And my boiler seams were joined by silver soldering, which, if expertly done is as strong as the parent metal.  As a matter of interest, the maker of my boiler told me that he had used $AUD1000 of silver solder in the construction of the boiler decades ago!

The test today involved pumping water into the boiler at 25% above maximum operating pressure, and holding it there for 20 minutes, checking the boiler for leaks and distortion.  It passed that test without problem.

The next test was for the functioning of the safety valves.  I had cleaned them and replaced the balls and polished the seats, and I had seen them blowing off when the pressure was above 100psi, so I was fairly confident that the certification was “in the bag”.

So the fire was lit, and after some coaxing because I had stupidly forgotten to bring the chimney blower,  the  steam pressure was raised to 100psi.  The safety valves started venting off.  But, the test is fairly demanding.  The fire was roaring, the steam blower was turned on full, and the pressure continued to rise.  It rose to 120psi which fails the test because the safety valves should have released enough steam to keep the boiler pressure at 100 psi or 110psi maximum..  Some adjustments to the safety valves did not fix the problem.

Some machining will be required to fix the valves, but after consideration I have ordered brand new safety valves and the test will be re-done when the new ones are fitted.

The boiler inspector was quite particular and proper, and very helpful.  I am grateful that this safety issue was detected, and I totally agree that it has to be fixed.  Thinking back to my problem of about 1 month ago, when I “dropped the fire”, (see “Holes in Swiss Cheese) I now believe that the problem was partly caused by the inadequate safety valves.

Add one more hole to the Swiss Cheese theory of disasters.

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The inadequate safety valves.

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The safety valves AND the oiler were replaced.

The new safety valves arrived today.  Warrick Sandberg valves.  I will install them later this week, and fire up the Fowler R3.

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The old safety valves.  Not up to the job.

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The new safety valves.  about the same dimensions but the exit holes are bigger and the spring tension is adjustable and lockable.  

And another thing.  I noticed this label near the pressure gauge of the full size Fowler R3.

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So I made this one today.  Slightly modified the information to suit my 3″ scale Fowler.

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My enamelling technique could improve, but it will do.

MODEL ENGINES in the cage at the GEELONG SHOW

The following short videos show some of the engines on display by GSMEE in the Vintage Machinery Shed at the recent Geelong Show.  GSMEE is Geelong Society of Model and Experimental Engineers.  All engines are running on steam, except of course the Stirling engine,  the Farmboy, and the Atkinson engine.

These engines will be running again at the GSMEE exhibition 25-26 Nov 2017, at The Lifestyle Pavillion, The Geelong Showgrounds.  Several scale model traction engines, trade exhibits, outside entries, and the engines in the Vintage Machinery Shed will also be on show.  The Hatherly Challenge competition will be judged.  This year the challenge is to make a reversing horizontal mill engine.  Entry is free (gold coin donation accepted with gratitude).

Stirling Engine, running on heat from exhausted steam,  spinning a CD with spiral image, made by John V.

 

 

Stuart Victoria Twin, made by Malcom W

 

 

Bolton12 Beam Engine made by John V

 

 

Farmboy internal combustion engine, running on propane, made by Stuart T

 

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Horizontal Mill Engine running on steam, reconditioned by John V,  (GSMEE exhibit)

 

 

Atkinson Engine, running on petrol, made by Rudi V.  FIRST PRIZE.

 

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Stuart 5, running on steam.  Reconditioned by Rudi V.  GSMEE exhibit.

 

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Beam Engine “Mary”, completed by Stuart T.  THIRD PRIZE.

 

 

Mill Engine, running on steam GSMEE exhibit.

 

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Mill Engine running on steam.  GSMEE exhibit.

 

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Mill Engine, running on steam, made by Malcolm W.

 

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Triple expansion marine steam engine by John V.  Almost completed.  SECOND PRIZE.

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FOWLER R3 TRACTION ENGINE

Start of the parade of tractors at the Geelong Show.   Graeme and John driving the Fowler R3.   Video by Stuart.

 

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2 Triple expansion steam engines.

Fowler R3 at The Geelong Show

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I took my Fowler R3 3″ scale traction to the Geelong Show, and here it is on display.

The R3 is a bit of an uncommon traction engine, so I was rather surprised, delighted and awed to find a full size R3 on display also.  Of course I met with the owner and spent a lot of time talking to him and examining the real McCoy Fowler R3.  Apart from the size difference, the similarities were striking.  Even the colour scheme was similar.  And the full size machine was a heavy haulage model whereas mine is a road locomotive.

I found the numbers were interesting

weight     250kg/18tonnes

length 1.5m/ 6m

towable load 250kg/60 tonnes

cylinders 2/2

boiler pressure 100psi (copper)/180psi (riveted iron)

year of build 2016/1911

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Me, getting a driving lesson from the owner, Graeme Brown

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The firebox door, throttle, looking forward

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Winch

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Forward/reverse lever

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Water pump, crankshaft driven

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crankshaft with its cluster of big ends and valve rod eccentrics.

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Con rod big end hardware

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Fire box door and water level sight glass

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Fowler R3 heavy haulage engine.  spent most of its working life in and around Ballarat, Victoria, Australia

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Rear wheel hub and winch

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This could be a photo of my engine, but it is not

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Lubricant and tool storage area.  Actually the front suspension and steering drum.  I imagine that the springs are to protect the  gear teeth.

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Not sure that the brass cylinder cover is kosher.

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The wheels hardly dented the grass during the grand parade.

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The engine mechanicals, oiler, whistle, and hose support.

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Boiler inspection hatch, and water intake.

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Belly tank, steering gear

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The engine could be used as a cathedral reliquary

And a series of non-edited videos, to recapture some magic moments.

Traction Engine Lamp Lenses

My Fowler 3R, 1:4 scale traction engine had nice little lamp bodies, but they looked a bit odd because they had no glass lenses.

Old photographs suggested that the lenses were convex, not flat, so cutting out some circles in flat glass or perspex was not appropriate.

But in my junk store, I had been saving some perspex balls which had originally been part of a desk lamp.

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The perspex (?Lexan) balls were 50-60mm diameter

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With a 12mm hole

I needed the lens to be 22mm diameter, and I could not figure a method of holding the balls in a lathe chuck without damaging the Lexan surface.

So I milled the outside diameters.

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Holding the Lexan ball in the mill vice, and milling the 22mm outside diameter (CNC of course).  Then it was easy to hold the machined cylinder in the lathe chuck (collet chuck actually), and part off an 8mm thick lens.

The parted off Lexan lens was too opaque on its parted off surface, so I spent some time with 400 grit, then 600 grit wet and dry paper to remove the parting marks.   Surprisingly, it became fairly transparent.  If I had some 1000 grit paper on hand I expect that it would have been quite transparent.

Then I pushed the lenses into the lamp bodies, and this is the final appearance.

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They look like they have a squint, but that is a photographic illusion.  They are pointing straight ahead.

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Not bad Eh?  The side aperture needs glass or perspex.  I have some LED’s on order to provide lumens.  Not sure how I will arrange the batteries.

More Triple Photos

Reader Richard suggested that I include a ruler in some of the triple photos, for a sense of scale, so here it is.

It is approx 300mm long 200mm wide and 270mm high.  Weighs 12.4 kg.

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Triple Expansion Engine Update

Well, almost another whole year has elapsed, and still the triple is not finished.  Come December, and that will be 3 years that this project has occupied my thoughts and workbench.  With a few other projects in between.

Last week I assembled the components, in preparation for the Geelong Show.  GSMEE is a bit light on for new models, and it was suggested that the triple might fill some shelf space, despite being unfinished.

So I bolted it together.  All 429 fasteners!  And stood back and admired it.  It really is quite impressive, complex, and interesting.  So I took some pics.

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This is the condenser side, and the Edwards pump

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The other side is a bit lessy fussy, showing the steam inlet valve, the Stephenson’s links, weigh shaft  and controls.

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And the top, showing some of those 429 fasteners,

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The high pressure valve chest cover.  I will fill those holes where bolts cannot go.

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And the low pressure end, and links for the pump.

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And a close up of the steam valve and weigh shaft.

Not quite ready to run it yet.

It needs side covers for the cylinder block, drain cocks for the cylinders, and general freeing up.  It is still very tight.

Not to mention painting.  I expect that I will paint this one.   No idea of colours yet.

TRACTION ENGINE (update)

Finally found someone with enough speed to upload a video.  Stuart filming.

Shot near Geelong.  Tom driving.  SWMBO and me on the kids’ cart.  Ange supervising.   The safety valves blowing off some steam.  Not much smoke from the Welsh steaming coal.

 

Holes in Swiss Cheese.

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I decided that the time was right for me to fire up the traction engine.  I had seen the maker do it once, and another local expert do it again.  And I thought that I had taken in the essential steps and safety features.

So I wheeled the engine out of the shed onto a piece of thick plywood.  Filled all of the bearings with oil, pumped water into the boiler, opened the cylinder cocks, and lit the fire with kerosene soaked dry wood.   Then shovelled in some Welsh steaming coal.  The fire started up well, and within 15 minutes the pressure started to rise.

At 40psi I removed the fan on the funnel, and the pressure continued to rise.

At 60 psi I started the engine.  It turned over very nicely, and continued to run.  All good.

The pressure continued to rise, 80-90-100.   At 100 psi the safety valves started to vent, as expected, but the pressure continued to rise.   110-120 psi.

120 psi is well above expected pressure.  The safety valves continued to vent, but not quickly enough.  I decided that the fire was too hot.  What I did not realise, was that the cam which drives the water pump was slipping on its shaft.  The water pump was not functioning.   I could see that the boiler water level needed topping up, so I turned on the 160psi electric pump.  It did not seem to be working.  In retrospect, the nominal 160psi electric water pump spec is optimistic.  I used the hand pump.  There was some resistance which is good, but I could not see the water level rising.

To cut a long story short, I dropped the fire.  It was all very scary.  “Dropping the fire” involves pulling out 3 long metal pins which hold the fire pan in place.  The pan drops to the ground, spilling the burning coal beneath the traction engine.

Of course the pins, and the pan are hot hot.  And the burning coals are even hotter.

Then I could smell burning rubber.  Oh shit!  A piece of coal against one of the solid rubber tyres.  Panic pushed the engine a few feet away from the pile of burning coals, trying not to stand in them.   Stamped out the bit of plywood which had caught fire.  (I had rolled the engine onto a piece of thick plywood because it is difficult to roll it on the thick gravel which surrounds my shed.)

Steam engines are not for the faint hearted it seems.  Nor for the ignorant amateur.  I have a learning curve looming.

I had noted that quite a few nuts and other fasteners were not very tight.  I can only speculate about the reason for that, but the water pump failure due to a loose connection was a bit concerning.  So I have decided to disassemble the entire engine, check everything and reassemble it.  Should be interesting.

Considering the causes for this near disaster, I list the following in no particular order….

Shaft driven water pump failure due to an unexpected loose connection

Electric water pump not working at specification (to be confirmed)

Operator inexperience (unsure about hand pump pressures and valve positions, no experience in dropping the fire, furnace fire possibly too fierce, insuffient practice in emergency steps.  In retrospect I should have closed the fire damper, opened the fire door, and stopped the engine turning, and maybe used a fire extinguisher).

In medicine, disastrous outcomes are usually caused by multiple small mistakes, rather than a single big mistake.  “Holes lining up in the Swiss Cheese”  theory.

It seems that Swiss Cheese also occurs in steam engines.

p.s.  Note added 8 Nov 2017,  6 weeks later.  See my blog “The Boiler Inspector”.  It seems likely that the safety valves were not up to the job of venting adequate steam with a vigorous fire.  Another hole in the Swiss Cheese lined up.

Compound Traction Engine

A few of my readers will have no idea what a “traction engine” is, much less a “compound traction engine”.

I have recently bought one of these machines, so here it is….

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To be accurate, it is a miniature traction engine.  1/4 size.  A full size one would weigh between 14-18 tons, and a bit beyond what SWMBO would have agreed to me spending.  I see ads in the English sites offering them for between 250 and 400 thousand pounds.

This one weighs about 250kg, and it cost me a bit less than a full size one.

It is powered by lighting a coal fire in its belly, and producing steam.  The engine sits on top of the boiler.  You can see the cylinders, connecting rods, crankshaft and gears in plain view.   The steam is under a pressure of 100lbs per square inch.   It passes through the high presssure cylinder (the small one) then through the low pressure cylinder to convert the heat energy of the coal into kinetic energy of motion.   The fact that the two cylinders are powered by the same bit of steam is the reason it is called a “compound” steam engine.

Steam traction engines were the predecessors of modern diesel tractors.

As road locomotives, they pulled loads of many tons, at low speeds, from 1869 to the end of WW2.  This one was a scale model of a road loco of circa 1918.  Other types were used on farms as tractors (not terribly effectively, because of their weight), in saw mills to power the saws, and as stationary engines to power some factories.

Rather surpisingly, they are a quiet machine in comparison to more modern diesel and petrol powered ones.  They sound a bit like a steam train, puffing and chuffing along.  I fine the sound is very appealing.  I also like the exposed mechanicals.

The coal smoke is not quite so pleasant, but the Welsh steaming coal which I am using, produces very little visible smoke.   Most of the white stuff which is seen is esacaping or exhausted steam which has been cooled to become water vapour.   Steam, as I have discovered, is invisible.

So back to my traction engine….    It was made by a gentleman in Adelaide, commencing in 1984, and completed in 2016.   He also made quite a few steam train engines and traction engines over the same years.  He told me that the compound engine was difficult to make due to its complexity, and the tight squeeze of all of the components.

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The square box with the brass lid is the mechanical lubricator,

The boiler is constructed from copper sheet, 4mm thick, riveted and silver soldered.    It has been tested, and certified to 100psi.  Re-certification is due, and is planned to be tested again in a couple of weeks.

I have found a few issues with the engine, and am gradually attending to those issues.   The piston rod glands, valve chest, main throttle, and starting valve were leaking steam.  Those leaks have been reduced to a level that is acceptable.

One of the big ends is noisy.  I noticed that the plans called for adjustable wedges, and they have not been used.  So at some stage I plan to make them and install them.  That should tighten up the noisy bearing.  The valve eccentric straps are a bit loose, with noticeable movement, but they should be fairly simple to tighten.

The mechanical lubricator is not working.  I have cleaned and adjusted it, but to no avail.  There does not seem to be enough movement in the driving arm to click the gear over.  Might need a re-design or a new lubricator altogether.

Some of the water supply pipes are modern flexible types and look totally wrong, so they will be replaced with rigid copper pipes.

The painted colours are appropriate for a working road machine, but I am planning a more fancy appearance with brass belly strips, polished steel cylinder covers, some pin striping, and a name plate.   Also a Fowler coat of arms.  (It is a Fowler Class R3).

Still contemplating the name.  Traction engines seem to be named after girlfriends wives or mistresses, famous people, Lords and Earls.   There is a nice movie from the 1960’s about a traction engine named “The Iron Maiden”.  Its rival was named “England Expects”, a name which resonates.   I have long been an admirer of Sir John Monash, so that is quite a possibility.  Monash was the leader of the Australian Army 1916-18, and he was so effective that the British Prime Minister of the day said that WW1 would have been a year shorter if Monash had led the allied forces.  Monash was also my university.  And we share first names.  But still considering.

So you can see that I intend to place my own stamp on this machine, and have lots of interest and fun doing it.

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Boiler fire started, extractor fan on the funnel to increase the draft through the firebox, Ange, Tom and Stuart waiting for steam pressure to rise.

I attempted to upload a 2 minute video, but just too slow.  Might try later.

Steam Trains

Two of my grandchildren are identical twins.  Here is a recent photo of one of them.  Not much point showing a photo of the other one.  He is identical.

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Not sure which one this is.  They really are identical.  He is planning to join a circus.

Anyway, I had made a wooden train set for my other grandchildren, and my other daughter, the mother of the twins, suggested that the twins should have one also.   I decided to CNC most of the parts, and it was not much more time to make two compared to one, so here they are.

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The design, slightly modified,  is from a book by Jim Makowicki “Making Heirloom Toys”.  The trains are ready for painting by SWMBO.   She is planning to use wood dyes, and finishing with a clear laquer.

The materials are whatever I could find in my workshop, so there is an eclectic mixture of Australian hardwoods, plywood, and pine.   The panels were all CNC milled, and the chimneys and domes were CNC turned.

It has been a fun project.  I will post a photo when they are coloured.

BAND SAW WELDER

Some posts ago I described my method of making band saw blades by silver soldering the join.

My band saw does have a German brand welder attached, but I have never been especially succesful with the results, so I have continued to silver solder, and very satisfied with those results.

But a friend asked to use the welder because that was the method which he was used to, so I watched.

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Colin, examining the welder, after clamping the blade ends.

In the meantime, I had used fine emery paper to clean the electrical contacts, and Colin had cut the bandsaw blade ends square, then used emery to clean up the blade ends for a distance of 25mm.   Then the ends were clamped into position.

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The appropriate current was selected and the button was pushed.  The current lasted only a second or so.

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Then the weld was annealed.  Heated red hot and slowly cooled.  Repeated several times.  The annealing makes the weld less brittle, and softer, easier to file or grind flat.

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The join before grinding flat.

Colin made 2 blades, then I made 4-5.  Very quick.  Much quicker than silver soldering.  Time will tell whether the joins last longer.

 

INSTALLING LATHE LEAD SCREW COVERS

I decided to install lead screw covers on my Colchester Master 2500 lathe.  The lathe is about 50 years old, so you might say that it is a bit late in its life to install covers now, but I really like my Colchester, and the lead screw appears to be in good condition, like the rest of the lathe.   And lately I have been turning some cast iron, which is quite abrasive.  And I occasionally use a tool post grinder.  So, protect the lead screw I bought some covers from DY-Global in South Korea.

To give DY-Global a free plug, the covers arrived at my home in Australia, from Korea, 48 hours after I paid for them.   With a hand written thank you note.  Fantastic service.

Anyway, back to the installation.  I had installed covers on another lathe a few years ago, and I was not looking forward to repeating the experience.   If past experience is anything to go on, the installer is lucky if afterwards he (or she) does not require skin grafts and a blood transfusion.

Handling the covers is like handling an oiled snake, which bites.

So this time, I thought about the job in advance.

And I made mental notes, which I am now setting down, for your benefit.  And mine, if I ever have to repeat the task.  I might add that the covers do not come with any installation instructions.  Nor could I find anything on the web which helped.  So this is how I managed.

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The unprotected leadscrew

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With the carriage moved to the tailstock end

Firstly, clean and oil the leadscrew.  This can be done after the cover installation, but it is a lot easier if done beforehand.

Also, take note of the dimensions of the lathe hardware where the covers will sit, to make sure that the covers will fit, and not obstruct the leadscrew nut or anything else.

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There are 2 covers for each leadscrew.  Take note of the outside and inside diameters, and the compressed length of the cover.

Then, wearing eye protection and gloves, compress the cover with one hand, while removing the metal clip with the other hand.  Then very carefully, allow the cover to expand to its full length.  WARNING:  the cover is under considerable tension (correction…  Should read “compression”).  Do not allow it to explosively expand.  How do I know this?   Do not ask.

The alternative method is to disassemble the lead screw, half nuts, leadscrew bearing mounts and most of the carriage.  It might be easier to do this, but I did not,  so I will press on with my chosen method.

The expanded cover will be about 1 meter long, depending on specifications.  It will be oily and slippery, and attract whatever dust and crap you have lying around your lathe.  I suggest that you wipe the exterior surfaces clean, to make subsequent handling a bit more like handling a dry snake than an oily one.   Re-oil it after installation.

Lay the cover near the leadscrew, in its intended position.  The carriage should be at one extreme end of the lathe.   You will note a big diameter end and a small diameter end.  In my case I decided that the small diameter should be at the carriage end.

The next instruction is the pearl in the description.  Read it carefully.

Using fingers, prise open the big diameter end of the cover and slip it over the lead screw about half way long the exposed length.  It will resist you, but be forcefull.

Then twist the cover to screw on the rest of it.   Simple!

I found that 95% of the cover went on in a few seconds, but the final 3 or 4 turns of the cover would not go on by twisting.  To get those last turns on, I used small flat screw drivers to lever them on.   Even better, I realised later, would have been to use bicycle tyre levers.

The cover then snaps into place, in a most satisfying manner.

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The big diameter end of the cover slipped over the leadscrew.

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Screwing the cover on.   Make sure to keep the small diameter coils inside the big diameter ones.

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One of the covers in place.  The one on the other side of the carriage is mirror reversed of course.

The compressed cover occupies about 50mm, so the carriage movement is slightly reduced.

The first time I installed these covers took me several hours.  And skin grafts and a blood transfusion.   Now that I have this technique it takes me about 5 minutes.

Horizontal Mill Engine (HME)

The HME is our Model Engineering Club competition build for 2017.  I finished making the components and tried to get it running, unsuccesfully.

So today I took it to the GSMEE morning meeting, and Rudi, who is a retired marine engineer, and has completed his own HME, took one look at mine and said that the timing was totally up the creek.

Rudi fiddled for a few minutes, and said, “it will work now”.  A couple of other members doubted his assessment, but were not confident enough to put money on it.

Anyway, this afternoon I hooked it up to a small compressor (my air brush compressor actually), and at 10psi it started to move.  At 16psi it was ticking over quite nicely.  Then the big test, throwing it into reverse.  And hallelujah!  It reversed.

Seeing an engine working, which you have made yourself, is an immensely satisfying moment.

This one still has some finishing jobs to be completed.  Like sealing the joins against steam leaks.  And a bit more polishing.   And maybe a name plate.   And there is an annoying knock which might disappear on steam.  But if not, I might need to re-make one of the bearings.

But it goes!!   Yay!!

 

Traction Engine Disappointment

I had inspected a 20 year old traction engine, 3″ scale so about 1.5m long, never been fired, just run on compressed air, and appeared to be in excellent condition.

The seller did not have a price, so after discussing with SWMBO who was surprisingly supportive of my passion, I rang the seller with an offer.  I did not really know what it was worth, but I made what I thought was a reasonable offer.

The seller immediately accepted the offer.

Had I offered too much?

Oh well.  I would press ahead.  I made an arrangement to pay and pick up the engine 4 days later.  I needed some time to get the cash and there was an unavoidable baby sitting day in between.

So 4 days later I hitched up the trailer and set off.  Just as I was driving out the gate, the phone rang once, then a message came through.

The seller had woken up with a bad feeling, and decided to not sell after all.  Asked for a return call.

I was feeling very disappointed and a bit cross, so I did not ring him, but acknowledged the call with a message.

Had I offered too little, and the seller had second thoughts?

Did he really intend to sell in the first place?

A susbsequent email from me has not been answered.

I did consider consulting a lawyer about breach of verbal contract, but there was nothing in writing.  So I am moving on.  Just pissed off.

Now I am looking for another traction engine, preferably requiring completion or repairs.

Wood Heater Paint

Some readers opine that I should paint my workshop wood heater.

Well, I will probably not do that.  Reasons~

1. I quite like that rusty brown look

2. I have a lazy streak

3. I dont have the stove paint, although a friend has offered some free.

4. With use it is changing colour to a darker brown.  Interesting.  Is it a chemical reaction of the rust to heat?

5. Would paint stand up to these temperatures?

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Boxford 125TCL CNC Upgrade

This small CNC lathe was converted from the original c1985 electronics, to components which are compatible with a PC running Windows XP and Mach3.

Reader Paul M asked about circuit diagrams.  I must confess that I do not have such.  Indeed, I would not understand them.  The electronic connections were made by my expert friend Stuart T.   I believe that Stuart intends to write up the conversion for one of the Australian magazines, and possibly this post might give him a gentle shove~.

In passing, I should give Stuart a thumbs up for his excellent CNC lathe program, which is far superior, in my opinion, than Mach3 for running the CNC lathe.  It is called Ezilathe and is available as a free download.

Anyway Paul, here are the promised photographs of the electronic components of the Boxford, after the conversion.  You should be able to work out many of the connections by zooming in.

 

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The Boxford 125TCL sitting on a bought trolley which could have been made to measure.  The PC is on the bottom shelf, the extra toolholders and tools in the drawers, the wireless MPG on the front, and upgraded stepper motors in black.

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The rear view to show the extra power outlets to supply the screen and PC.  I still operate this lathe in a spare bedroom of my house.  Very handy if I have a sleepless night.  It is so quiet that it does not disturb SWMBO.

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The view with the back open.  The only components from the original setup are the spindle motor, the main switch, and the Gemini controller (RHS with orange cover).

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Power outlets, main switch and power supply.

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Transformer.  Can’t remember what the Fotek is for.

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Gemini with cover removed.

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C11 R9 Breakout board, the optical indexer (top), and Gecko stepper drivers (LHS), parallel cable from the PC,  all mounted on an aluminium plate.

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Spindle motor, original.  But now considering upgrading to a more powerful motor.

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new cable junction box for the stepper cables.

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New cooling fan, top LHS

So, I hope that these shots are some use.  If you do not recognise the components, I suggest that you follow my example and bribe an expert friend to do the connections.

Heat in the workshop. Heaven!

Today I fired up the pipe heater which I have welded up over the past few days.

Fantastic!!

I was so keen to get warm on this 10 degree celcius day, that I deferred water proofing the flue.

And of course it rained!

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I forgot to bring some newspaper or kindling, so I used a propane torch to get the wood burning.

Within 5 minutes the temperature of the burner was over 200c, and in an hour it was 350 degrees celcius/ 660 fahrenheit.  Heaven.

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The shape of the furnace accepts wood up to 1400mm long.   The handle at the bottom is the ash tray.  The hefty looking handle above is for the furnace door.   The bit of RHS on the floor is so I can open the door when it is hot.

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This is the external sheath of the flue.  The strip of corrugated iron is to separate the hot internal flue from the cooler external layer.

And then it rained!   And I had not installed the waterproofing fitting to the roof.   So water poured down onto the heater, and filled my workshop with steam.!!

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Despite today being only 10 deg celcius, I happily machined away until 6pm.  2 hours later than I usually stop due to the cold.

Then I had to go home to cook dinner.   SWMBO was getting hungry.

Oz is hot. Right? Bloody Cold just now.

It is the depths of winter here in southern Oz.  I know that is difficult for you northern hemisphere types to realise, but here at present we have frosts when we get up, and the workshop is just too cold to do anything productive after about 4pm.

And the tooling surfaces rust up in front of my eyes.

So I decided to make a wood burning heater for my workshop.

The workshop is 7m x 13m.  Not lined or insulated.  Just a tin shed.

Electricity supply is dodgy and expensive.  And I dont want to suck power away from my CNC machines.  Bottled gas is very expensive… about $AUD20-25 per day.

But I have plenty of trees dropping dead branches.

So I decided to make a wood burning heater.

Parameters…..

Not occupying much floor space.  No wall space available.

Able to be removed in warm-hot months (it gets up to 110 fahrenheit  / 45celcius in summer.

So this is what I have come up with.  I had some 220mm dia pipes left over from a building job.  That would be the body of the heater.

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The footprint is 300x400mm.  It is 1600mm high.  There is an ash pan under the grate.  The air intake (hidden) and flue are placed to encourage swirling in the pipe, and maximise heat transfer to the body of the heater.  The top is closed with a heavy plate.  I plan to add a proximity rail.

The heater is now finished, and I will do a test burn tomorrow.  If it works as hoped, I will post a video.

And totally unexpectedly, I have bought a model traction engine.  It feels a bit strange to buy rather than build, but here it is.

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1500mm long.  Deceased estate, never run on steam.  Beautifully made.   based on a steam engine which was used to power a sawmill.  ? 3″ scale.  Needs boiler re-certified. 

I will make a ride on driver’s trailer, and a kids ride on trailer.   I really have caught the steam disease.

TRIPLE FINAL(?) ASSEMBLY

Just one photo to show that I have not totally ignored the triple expansion marine engine.   I have started to re-assemble it, having made almost all of the components.  But there were quite a few finishing tasks put aside until later, which I am now tackling.  eg lubrication points.  I suspect that this will not be the final teardown and assembly.

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The gunmetal base, with main bearings and crankshaft installed.  The eccentrics are not finally positioned.  

And some reminder photos from 2 years ago, of making the crankshaft.

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The centres were drilled on the CNC milling machine, after the locating the top of the bar

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Turning the second big end bearing.  Note the packing to support the crankshaft after the first big end had been turned.   The main bearings were turned last.

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The finished crankshaft.  Not much remains of the 51mm stainless rod.

Model Ship’s Cannon

I spotted this model cannon at the Townsville Maritime Museum, Townsville, Queensland, Australia.  The barrel is cast and bored.  Nicely detailed, particularly the barrel decorations.  My understanding is that such exuberant decorations on the original cannons would have been very costly, and not used on naval ships.  But they were sometimes commissioned by pirates who were spending their ill gotten gains.

The staff very kindly allowed me to reposition it for the photographs, and I am very happy to give the museum a thumbs up for some most interesting displays.

MMcannonobl

MMcannon top

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Koffiekop Modification

I have been considering this modification for some time, and today I located the aluminium heat sink-radiator material which I needed, and which I knew was somewhere in my stuff.

The Koffiekop Sirling engine requires differential temperatures between the top and bottom plates.  I wondered if installing some heat shedding plates on the top plate might increase the running time on a cup of coffee.

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The heat sink material is glued to the top plate with a heat transmitting electronic silicone glue.

Afterwards I ran a test with a cup of hot water.

The engine ran for 26 minutes!  That is an improvement of about 25% on the best previous runs.  Success!

The Horizontal Mill Engine (HME) is assembled and ready for the D valve to be timed.  This is how it looks.  I wont get to it for a couple of weeks now.

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I did squirt some compressed air into the valve chest, but minimal movement.  Not surprising, considering the position of the eccentric was just a guess.  When I get it going there will be a video.  That crankshaft pin is temporary.  It is a 3mm cap screw going through a 4mm cap screw.  go figure.

 

If at first you don’t succeed…

Try again.

The small reversing handle lock on the horizontal mill engine took 4 attempts.

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Most of the components are made.  That is my blood staining the plans.  

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The lock is made of brass.  About 32mm long, then bent into shape.

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From the left.. 1. broke when turning the thread.  2, cracked during bending, not enough heat.   3. Too much heat melted the surface.  4. Success.

And on the same subject, the cylinder head and guide went well until I neglected to remove it while finishing the guide block.

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I might have mentioned this one previously.  It still rankles.

Another Diversion from The Triple

My model engineering club (GSMEE) has an annual competition build.  This year it is a small horizontal reversing steam engine.

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So I have taken another break from the triple to build the HME.  I have redrawn the plans to make my model 40% bigger, and also to accept metric fasteners.

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The HME blanks for the base, the cylinder block, the flywheel pillar and the flywheel.  The only stainless steel I had in my junkbox, er storage facility, had a  big hole in the middle, so I filled that with brass.

All was going well, and I spent almost a day making the piston head guide. Then finished off by making the guide rod and block.   I decided to take another thou off the guide block, and set the lathe going.

And heard an ominous bang.

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I had forgotten to remove the piston head guide from the from the piston before I restarted the lathe.  Destruction.  The lump at the bottom is another piece of brass, ready to be turned into another head guide.  I had run out of suitably sized brass, so I silver soldered a length of rod to some square section.  A day later and the new piston head guide is now made.  

At least I know from this (and other crashes), that the second part is always made much faster than the first.

And on a different subject, I recently bought on Fleabay a self centering 4 jaw chuck.

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It does not replace the independent jaw 4 jaw chuck for accurate work, but will be useful for turning small square stock.  Also, I plan to make a backing plate for it to fit into the tailstock, so it will hold taps.

A Base for the triple, and some oil holes…

Thinking about the options for a base for the triple expansion marine steam engine..

I looked at every photo I could find on the net, and thinking about whether I want to be historically accurate, or just really solid, or a bit interesting with an historical flavour.

At this stage, the decision is not set in concrete, but I am going with the last option.  Photos later in this post.

But first, I have pulled all of the major components apart, and I am spending time doing a few of those jobs which I had been avoiding because they are difficult and imprecise, and if they go badly it will be a major disaster at this stage.  Like drilling the oil holes and wells for the big ends.

Nothing precise about this.  The con rods and big end shells and bearings have been painstakingly machined, and I do not want to think about remaking them if I stuff up.  And drilling into curved surfaces, with a 1.5mm drill bit…

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That thread is 3mm dia.  The hole above the nut is the oil way, 1.5mm dia.  Very tricky and too anxiety provoking to be thinking about a video.   Amazingly, it all went well!   I now have 2 oil holes for each of the 3 big ends.  I will need to fill the well with oil with a medical syringe and fine needle, but.

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The crankshaft, turned from stainless steel a year or two ago, and the conrods.  The big ends now with lubrication points.

And here are the major engine components, after partial disassembly.

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At top left is the condensor, then the cylinder block in 2 parts, then the steam supply valve.  The square section tube is going to become the base.  And so on.  You get the picture.  I will count the bits at some stage.

Then I cut and drilled the square section aluminium tube for the base.

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The cast base of the triple, with main bearing studs and column studs in place.  All sitting on the square section alu.  Have not decided whether to bolt it together, or just Loctite it. 

Those holes in the square section were drilled and chamfered on the CNC mill.

 

Making Hubcaps

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I made 5 of these

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The 50mm diameter aluminium blank had a 12mm bolt inserted into a blind threaded hole.  The bolt was held in the lathe chuck.

The 2 short videos which follow show 1. the final rough cut 2. the finish cut.

The shape was drawn as a DXF file using CAD, the G code was generated using Ezilathe, and the lathe was controlled with Mach3.

 

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Total CNC turning time was 16 minutes per hubcap, plus cutting the groove for the O-ring, then a quick polish with a cleaning pad.

Chariot Racing

Another little job for my CNC lathe.

A fellow club member asked me to turn some hub caps for his car restoration.  And the shape was a bit unusual.

This is the first effort at complying with his request.

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It is aluminium, and will be held in position with an O-ring in the groove.

If I had put a knife edge on it he could have justified new car number plates…..

BEN-HUR

Metalworking for a cabinet maker

Our model engineering club has been locked out of our club rooms because MOULD has been detected in the building.   Apparently a lengthy process to reduce the mould to acceptable levels.  (note to self…. make sure that the inspectors never set foot in our house).

So our meetings have been held in various locations, including a sports centre and a basketball building.   I feel quite virtuous when I enter these buildings, but for some reason I do not feel any fitter when I exit.

A recent day meeting was held at my farm workshop.  Not my farm anymore, just the buildings.

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Not that one….   the other one.

And one of our more senior members requested a display of CNC machining, from design to product.

So, I drew up a finial which was required to complete a bookcase which I had built 30 years ago.  Then imported the DXF drawing file into “Ezilathe”.

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Showing Stuart Tankard, the author of Ezilathe, scrutinizing my drawing ….  and offering excellent suggestions for improvement using Ezilathe.

Then used Ezilathe to generate the G codes…..

Then to the CNC lathe…..

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CNC turning the finial in 51mm brass rod.  1600rpm, 100mm/min.  Controlled by Mach 3 Turn.  I removed the tailstock shortly after this photo was taken, to permit completion of the ball.

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Some GSMEE members watching the CNC turning.  I spent 3 days clearing up the workshop so the 16 members could fit in.   Amazing how much space was revealed in the workshop.   This is the Taiwanese lathe which I converted to CNC.  See old posts for details of the conversion.

I watched anxiously as the part was gradually revealed.  Admittedly, I had had a test run in wood to check the parameters, but this was the first run in metal.

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The finial.  The bar stock was parted later.

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Bookcase finally finished, after 30 years.

If you are interested in CNC lathe work, you should take a look at “Ezilathe”.  It is superb.

If you are on Facebook, (of course you are if you are reading this), you might like to take a look at the GSMEE Facebook site.

 

Arduino Controlled Indexer-2

Most of the bits and pieces have arrived for this project, so I made a start on the machining today.  I used 80mm dia aluminium rod to make the stepper motor support piece.

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Stepper motor (right), flexible 8-12mm shaft coupler, and the rotary table shaft (left)

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I cut a 92mm cylinder of aluminium, squared the ends, centre drilled a face, drilled it out to 25.4mm, shown in this photo.  Note the 4 ribbons of swarf coming off the work.  The drill bit is an industrial stepped bit, with 4 cutting lips. Then the hole was bored to 28.80mm.

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An upside down photo of the stepper motor (left), motor support which is hiding the flexible shaft coupler, and rotary table (right).  Next to drill and tap for the bolts, and provide access holes for the coupling screws.

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And some more milling to convert the cylinder to a rounded square section, then drilling and tapping for the grub screws and bolts for the stepper motor.  (tapping with the Mogens Kilde tapping head in the picture).

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The finished support block

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Mechanicals finished.  Now for the electronics.

Triple Expansion Steam Engine Pipework.

I am close to disassembling the Bolton 9, before gradually reassembling it in preparation for running it on air then steam.  Most of the components have now been made.  Most recently I completed the pipework associated with the Edwards air pump and the twin water pumps.

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This is the combined air and water pumps, and new pipework.  Most joins are silver soldered, but a couple are Loctited.  Loctite should be adequate.  These components will not get super hot.

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This valve is one of the few components on this engine which I have not personally made.  This one came from the effects of the late Harry Close, who was a valued member of our Model Engineering Club.

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The pipework adds to the overall interest , yes?  It will look good when polished.

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And the “tails” for the valve rods, which are attached to their respective steam chests.  The BA7 bolts are a bit oversized for the job.  The intermediate cylinder tail screws into place.  I am not sure why it is different from the other two.

So now I am making a list of tasks which need to be completed when the engine is taken apart, hopefully for the last time before it is run.  The list is not complete, and so far it runs to 3 pages.  Mostly like fixing parts which interfere with each other, and freeing up tight bearings.

I will take some pics of the components.

Cutting a thread up to a shoulder

A problem with some thread dies is that they have such a large “lead in” that they are unable to cut a thread up to a shoulder.

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A 3/8″ x 32tpi die.  Note the large lead in taper.

This results in the thread stopping a long way from the shoulder… undesireable in some situations.

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This is a thread made with the die in the previous photo.  I wanted it to go right up to the shoulder, but this is as close as it gets.  About 2mm gap.

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The screw in this upsidedown photo does not allow the shoulder to seat properly.

The solution?  Modify the tool.

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Here is the tapping die, held onto a magnetic chuck, within a machined steel disc to increase the magnetic attachment force.

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So I ground off the top 1-2mm of the die.  My surface grinder is out of action, so I used the tool and cutter grinder.   A bit rough but it worked.

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This is the die after grinding the surface.  Note that there is no lead in.  I ground the unlabelled face so I did not lose the specs of the die.

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And the screw after using the modified die.  The thread  now goes right up to the shoulder.  Incidentally, this is a zoomed photo using an iphone.  Not bad?

So that does the job.

The downside is that in future the thread must be started with the unmodified side of the die, and finished with the modified side.  Adds some time.  And the die is thinner and a bit weaker.

A pity that the dies are not manufactured with one “no lead in” face.

The particular set of ME dies will now all be modified in the same way.

 

A Turntable for the Triple Expansion Engine.

I have not weighed the Bolton 9 triple expansion steam engine, but I would guess that it is 20-25lb.  (weighed it.  25.5lb)

Access to the various bolt on bits and pieces has become increasingly difficult and tricky, and involves frequent repositioning of the engine.

I removed the bolt on base and that has improved the situation a bit.

Then I had a brainwave, thought bubble, inspiration  whatever, and I tried a ball bearing turntable….   you know….. one of those Chinese restaurant middle of the table gadjets.

It is incredibly useful!

Here are some pics and a video showing it in place;  just a demo of the engine at its current (unfinished) stage.  I think that the turntable might  become a frequently used tool for heavier models.

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The Bolton 9 on the turntable

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And the latest additional bits…   non return valves on the water pumps.

Project in the Wings.

While finishing the triple expansion steam engine, I have decided on my next project.  Actually, based on my past history of procrastination with the triple, I might even put aside the triple to start on this one.

Reading this article in “Model Engineers’ Workshop” gave me the inspiration to convert a rotary table to electronic control.

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Dec 2016 MEW article

So I have commenced accumulating the bits and pieces…

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An 8″ Vertex rotary table.  I have had this for years, but unused since acquiring a universal dividing head.  Should be ideal for this project.

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A Nema 24 Stepper motor, shafts at each end, so I can use the table manually as well as electronically.  The Microstep driver was supplied packaged with the motor as a kit.  $90AUD inc postage.

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From the same supplier, a 48volt power supply.  $38AUD

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The brain of the system.  A programable microcontroller “Arduino Uno”.  I bought 5 of these for $20AUD post included.

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And an easily attachable display.  To attach the Arduino.  $19AUD

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And since I knew nothing about Arduinos, a “Getting Started” book.  Excellent.  On loan from a friend (thanks Stuart)

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And to practice some circuits and get some idea about the Arduino programming, a starter kit of bits and pieces.    $75AUD, but has been very instructive and loads of fun.   The program to run the Arduino is downloadable free from the Internet, so this kit might be a bit superfluous.

And some items of kit.  Each under $20AUD.

magnifiers

A magnifier soldering station, and head light and magnifier

multimeter

A very cheap multimeter.  Previous purchase.  Works fine.  $10AUD

I have disassembled the rotary table, and ordered a 12/8mm coupler.  I am waiting for the coupler before I start designing and cutting the main part to be fabricated which is the piece which joins the stepper and the table.

Also ordered a box to contain the electronics and switches.  Havn’t yet thought about cables,  joiners etc.

 

 

 

Edwards Pump for the Triple Expansion Steam Engine

The triple expansion steam engine has been progressing, again.  I started this project over 2 years ago, but I have taken many breaks, some prolongued.  One break lasted over 6 months while I made some cannons.

I cannot remember when I made the Edwards pump for the triple, but it must be over a year ago.   In the past few days I have returned to it, finalising the mounting to the engine, and joining the driving levers to the pump and the engine.

The Edwards pump creates the vacuum in the condenser chest.  It is an air pump.

Attached to the Edwards pump are 2 water pumps, which return condensed steam as water, to the boiler.  At least that is what I understand from the descriptions.  It feels a bit odd, making these components before understanding what they really do.

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The Edwards pump is the central cylinder and rod.  The water pumps, bolted to the sides, are just lumps of semi machined cast gunmetal at the stage this photo was taken.

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The step before the above picture, where the base of one water pump is machined.

 

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The Edwards pump, and the 2 water pumps, almost finished, attached to the engine.

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There is no clearance between the pump gland and the condensor, so the intitial hexagonal glands which I made (not shown) were unuseable.  So I made these cylindrical glands which required a tiny hook  spanner to tighten.  The hook spanner was made on the CNC mill from 1/8″ brass plate.  A little filing was required to shape the hooked tooth.  Works nicely.

 

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The pump unit, lower left, attached to the engine.  Actuating levers driven off the low pressure cylinder (not yet connected).

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The pump unit viewed from the side.

So I am at the stage where I would like this project to be finished, so I can get on with other projects.  It feels like it is close because there are very few castings remaining in the box.  But I know that the entire engine has to be disassembled, and painstakingly reassembled, freeing up some of the tight parts so it will turn over more easily.  Then the steam pipe hookups and valve timing.  Then hopefully, a video of it running!

NEW SPINDLE MOTOR for CNC LATHE?

Now that I have replaced the stepper motors in the Boxford CNC lathe, (see “New steppers for an old CNC lathe”)  I am considering whether I might replace the spindle motor for the same reason…  that it has become less powerful due to the age of its permanent magnets.   Sometimes I am aware that it struggles to keep up the revs while cutting.

Watch the YouTube video about the next generation servo motors.  They use modern rare earth magnets.  They are powerful, compact and precise.  And not cheap.  Stuart T, who has the same Boxford CNC lathe as me, has suggested that these Clearpath motors would be suitable replacements for the ageing Boxford spindle motors .

 

 

 

Harold Hall Grinder Rest – modification; and triple expansion update.

Harold Hall has written many articles and several very useful books about metalworking, using a lathe, using a mill, and much more.

Recently he has been posting videos on YouTube.

He is a very knowlegable, dignified, elderly gentleman.  His books are precisely, beautifully written, and the plans and projects are excellent.  I have made quite a few of the project pieces in my quest to learn as much as I can about machining metal.

I came across his Youtube videos quite recently, and have been enjoying them.  One of them was about his grinding rest.

I made 2 of the HH grinding rests from plans in his book, and they have proved to be useful, reliable, and compact.  Here is a photo of one of them.

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The original HH plans specify that the footprint of the base is much smaller than I made it.  This one is 200 x 100mm.   The larger footprint adds some extra stability (IMO), and the slots permit the grinder to rest distance being easily adjusted.  It is a bit grimy because it is used frequently.  Polishes up quite nicely.

In HH’s video he mounts the rest on a metal plate, joined with a couple of switchable magnet bases.  Here is a link to HH’s Youtube video.

And in case you are wondering what has happened to the triple expansion engine, I have been working on the reversing mechanism.  The intermediate cylinder reversing curved slide would not fit into the available space, so I removed it, silver soldered in a new end, and ground it several millimeters shorter.  Then reinstalled it.   It is still a mm or so too long but I think that it will do.

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The high pressure reversing mechanism on the right, and the intermediate hiding behind, on the left of the pic.

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The intermediate cylinder valve rods and eccentrics.   Rather difficult access.

The Robert the Bruce approach to turning problems.

Robert the Bruce was watching a spider making a web in the cave they were sharing, so the story goes.  The spider tried 6 times to make a difficult connection, and on the 7th attempt, it succeeded.  Robert, who had tried many times to become king of the Scots, was inspired to try yet again, and he did indeed become King Robert 1 of Scotland, eventually.

I thought of Robert more than once recently, when I was making an ER40 collet chuck for my CNC lathe.  The particular  collet chuck involved making a 2.25″ x 8tpi internal thread, a 50mm x 1.5mm external thread, and cutting an 8 degree internal taper.   Not too complicated you say.  I agree, but for the chuck to be useful, each step had to be extremely accurate.

I made 4 successive collet chucks until one was adequately accurate.

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CHUCK 1, 2 and 3

Chuck 1 actually went very well.   Nice tight spindle thread, taper good, and external thread just right.  But the chuck did not quite seat firmly.  Could it be that the spindle thread (the internal one) was not quite long enough?   So I cut a deep distal groove.    Wound out the carriage.   Oh shit!   Forgot to clear the spindle thread.   Totally destroyed it.   The chuck actually fitted the spindle quite nicely, but with only 10% of the thread remaining, it was useless.

Chuck 2 was made in 2 pieces, on suggestion from Stuart T.  The idea being that if there was any inaccuracy in the lateral runout, the piece with the taper could be adjusted.  OK.   Sounded sensible.  Again all went well, but the spindle thread was not correct.  For some reason the thread cutter seemed to make a new path about half way through making the thread.   So the spindle thread was thinned  excessively.   But still tight.   So I made the tapered half, and joined it all together.  Fitted it to the lathe and measured the runout and taper.  All good.  Less than 0.01mm runout and perfectly parallel to 100mm from the chuck face.   But.   The next day I removed the chuck, replaced it, and did the runout measurements again.  I did not need a gauge.  I could see the wobble.  Chucked the chuck  into the rubbish bin.  That thinnned out spindle thread was hopeless.   But what caused the problem?  The thread was CNC cut, and it should have been perfect.

So chuck 3.   One piece again.    All seemed to go well, but again the big spindle thread was wrong.    Again there seemed to be 2 thread paths.

Then the penny dropped.   The spider made the web connection.   Robert got the throne and John saw the light.

The tool post had moved slightly during the threading!  It had twisted a little, as a result of the T piece in the carriage slipping.  F**K    F**K  F**K!!!

I replaced the T piece grub screws with more solid cap screws, and really tightened them.  Then made another chuck.    I must point out that each chuck was about 6-8 hours of machining, normally a very pleasant time.  But by this time, I felt like that  bloody spider in the cave.

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ER40 Chuck Number 4.

One advantage of making 4 chucks is that each one was made faster, and with more confidence.   This one was made in about 5-6 hours, including painting with selenium oxide to give it a black appearance.

It has a runout at the chuck face of 0 – 0.01mm (which might have been due to inaccuracy in the rod which was being measured), and a taper of 0.02mm at 50mm from the chuck face.  It feels nice and tight when being screwed on.   OK,  Success.   Eventually.

Next job, the throne of Scotland.

But obviously that slipping top slide on the CNC lathe has to follow chucks 1,2 and 3 into the rubbish bin.   It will be replaced by a fixed, immoveable tool post.

New Steppers for an old CNC Lathe

My Boxford TCL125 CNC lathe was missing steps in the cross slide, with resulting inaccurate work.  Obvious causes, like cutters not sharp, or gibs too tight were excluded.  Changes in the stepper motor settings maybe helped a bit, but not enough.

Stuart T suggested replacing the stepper motor, since the machine is a 1985 model, and the steppers look original, and therefore the 32 year old stepper permanent magnets are probably not as strong as they were originally.

We had changed the electronic controls in the lathe 3 or 4 years ago, so it would work with a Windows PC, and Mach3.  Mostly I use “Easylathe” for generating the G codes.

Stuart had a spare stepper motor in his junk box, and it was the correct size (Nema 23), but more powerful than original.  So I swapped it, and missing steps disappeared.  Hooray!  A minor problem was that Stuart’s stepper had shafts at both ends, and I was not comfortable about cutting off the unwanted shaft end, and I had decided to change the Z axis stepper also , so I ordered some new stepper motors.

A carton of 3 motors arrived a few days after placing the order.  They are made in China, and are nicely finished.  Each new motor had 4 wires, whereas the originals had 8 wires each, but reference to the wiring diagrams quickly determined the connections.  Total cost for the 3 motors was $AUD90, including postage, and now I have a spare.

A big advantage of the NEMA mounting system is that the motor mounting dimensions are fixed, so swapping motors is simple.  More powerful stepper motors are longer, but the dimensions are all available online, and can be checked before ordering.

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The black and silver new stepper motors fitted to the Boxford TCL125.  One cover waiting to be reinstalled.

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The old steppers on the right.   

A simple CNC turning test worked well, so I am hopeful that this problem is fixed.

 

Swap Meet Bargains

Yesterday I travelled to Ballarat, (Victoria, Australia) to a swap meet which was held on 22 acres at the airfield.

Most of the stuff in the thousands of sites, was junk from shed and farm cleanouts.  However, despite rapidly walking up and down the rows, I did not quite cover all of the sites.  My Apple watch indicated that I had walked 18km (11.2 miles) and much of that was carrying a backpack full of bought items, so it was no wonder that my ankles were aching at the end of it.

I was really only interested in the few sites which had tools from factory closures.  But my eye was drawn to the very old Caterpillar crawler tractor, a 2 tonner, not too derelict except for a broken exhaust manifold and some rusted growsers.  $AUD9500, so I kept on walking.   Lots of elderly, old and antique cars, motor bikes, and vehicular bits and pieces.

The following photos show most of the stuff which I bought, and some prices (except for the ones which SWMBO must never discover).

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A Japanese woodworker’s chisel.  9 mm wide.  Razer sharp, oak handle.  I buy one of these at each Ballarat swap meet from the same seller, a lovely Japanese woodworker who lives and works in Victoria.  These chisels are a pleasure to use.  $AUD25

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This was a bargain.  A set of good quality English BA open ender spanners, probably unused, for $AUD8

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I dont know what this is called, but it has an INT40 taper, and bolts to the workbench or mill for inserting and removing cutters from the toolholholder, and avoiding the cutter dropping down and being damaged.  Is it a tool setter?  Anyway, $AUD40

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Used but sharp, quality brands.  Carbide ball nose end mill, countersink bit, T slot cutter, and 1/4″ BSP spiral tap. $AUD30

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A new, interesting woodworking cutter, carbide, with left and right hand spirals to avoid surface furring.  $AUD10

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3 Mitutoyo telescoping gauges.  $AUD10

I mulled over a Mitutoyo 1000mm vernier caliper in perfect condition for $AUD300, but decided that it was a wanted rather than needed item, and walked on.

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A box of 12 brand new quality Wiltshire triangular files. $AUD12

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2 very nice Moore and Wright thread gauges, which have BA and Acme threads as well as metric and Imperial angles.  $AUD6

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A box of metric counterbores.  Not cheap, but good price considering the German quality, and condition.  $AUD55

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Small die holder, Sidchrome 10mm spanner, tiny Dowidatadjuster and new box of inserts.  All useful.  About $AUD45

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Chesterman vernier height gauge.  Unusual triangular column. Beautiful condition, complete range of accessories, in a lined box.  Metric and Imperial.  Price not to be dislosed to SWMBO.

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These are brass wick type oilers which I will give to the local Vintage Machinery Society.  No markings.

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My brother was a navigator in the Australian Air Force many years ago, before the age of satellite navigation.  He would sight the stars using a sextant something like this to calculate the plane’s position, while standing in a glass dome in the roof of the aircraft.  (I think that I got that description approximately correct).   He once told me that he would like to have a sextant again, so when I spotted this at the swap meet, and the price was OK, I decided to get it for him.  Maybe it will make up for all of those forgotten birthdays.  So little brother, leave some room in your suitcase when you next visit.  I will leave the clean up and renovation to you.

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Elliott Bros London.

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It looks fairly complete and intact.  Of course I have no idea how it works.

Assembling the Triple

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I got this far in assembling the model triple expansion steam engine, then lost courage and put it aside (again).  You can see the high pressure steam chest labelled “top”, the steam valve and handle, the drag links and levers for the reversing mechanism for the high pressure cylinder, and the worm and gear and control wheel for the reversing mechanism.   The reversing levers will need pinning with taper pins when the correct positions are finalised.  The short rod in the middle of the pic is temporary.  I need to make those properly.  The drag links clash with the condenser cover.  That was predicted in Bertinat’s notes.  The cover will need some material removed.  Slowly progressing, but taking frequent breathers.

The high pressure mechanisms are the most exposed, and easiest to access, and they were very tricky, and not yet compeletely installed.  I dread to consider what the intermediate pressure ones will be like, buried in the middle of the engine.   Then there is the valve timing.  Help!

A Full Size Weighshaft

The crowds were down at this year’s Truck Show at the Geelong Showgrounds.  Maybe the  38c weather prediction had something to do with that.

But those hardy souls who did turn up were treated to a feast of steam engines working on steam, and other antique engines popping away, as well as the magnificent trucks, tactors, and military vehicles.  There was a superb display of radio controlled trucks and excavators, and unbelievable machinery created with Meccano.

My interest was mainly focussed, for some reason, on the full sized triple expansion steam engine, which is the prize display in the vintage machinery shed.  it once powered a tug boat, and later a dredge on Port Phillip Bay.   And the following photos and video, if it will upload, show the bits which were of particular interest.

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The red control handle top right is the main steam control valve.  The one on the left is the reversing control handle.  Note the big steam piston centre bottom.  It is a steam powered reversing control piston.   This engine was made in 1951, so is just about the last gasp in triple expansion steam engine development.

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and the rod at top is about 5″ diameter.  It is the weighshaft, which carries the reversing levers for each cylinder.  On my model it is 5mm diameter.

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Another view of the weighshaft and the levers.   Massive.

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And note the drag links in the adjustable block.   That would have been set at intitial installation, and probably never altered since then.

Video of the big triple expansion engine working.  Maybe not.

For those following my triple expansion steam model engine build, I have put it aside again.  It is at the final assembly stage now.

Meanwhile, I am making some extra tool holders for the CNC lathe, and another ER40 chuck for the CNC lathe.

The ER40 chuck which I am currently using has an M5 shaft which is held with a drawbar, so I cannot feed work through the lathe spindle.  Plus it sticks out of the headstock a bit excessively.  So I have drawn up plans for a new chuck which I will fit to the lathe spindle and use the CNC to make the ER40 taper and threads.  Pics will follow.

And I really need some extra tool holders for the CNC lathe.  I have 5, but have material to make another 10.   The material is high quality cast iron off a scrapped T&C grinder.  I bought the grinder table cheaply (($AUD20 from memory) and have been gradually canibalising it over the last couple of years.   I have cut up the remains into rectangular 30x80x40mm chunks and will make the tool holders in the next couple of days, SWMBO and weather permitting.  Unfortunately there was insufficient material to make a long section, machine it, then cut it up, so each tool holder will have to be made separately.

Anyone for a swim?

High summer.

Hot workshop, wearing only shorts and boots.

triple-expansion-engine-1-36

I think that I will stay in the workshop.

Today was my deadline to have the triple expansion steam engine assembled and working, ready to be hooked up to steam at the Geelong Truck show.

GSMEE (Geelong Society of Model and Experimental Engineers) has a display in the Vintage Machinery Shed at the show, with many small working steam engines and the odd IC engine running.  Plus the Vintage Engine group has many full size engines running….  always a really interesting place to visit.

Another full day in the workshop would have just about had the triple in the display.  Unfortunately, I lost a day having to get a dental root canal abcess reamed out.

Then the day before yesterday, I could not find the drag links for my triple.   I had made them in early December,  and I was sure that I had put them in the multi- compartmented box where I store all such bits.  Despite thoroughly searching the box, at least 20 times, they were not there.  Could I have put them down somewhere else in the workshop?  So I searched the workshop.  No luck.  So I tidied the workshop, putting tools away, sweeping up rubbish, all the while searching.  Still no luck.   So I cleaned and searched my car, my bedroom, the living room, every where that I could concievably have left them.  (OK, I did not actually clean the bedroom and living room, but I did search).   I grilled my wife.  Had she seen them?  No.

So I slept on the problem.  Next day was going to be hot, so at 7am I drove to the workshop (it is about 15km from home), and searched again.   Still no luck.

So I searched the multi compartmented box for the 21st time.  I knew that it was a waste of time, but I was seriously considering making a new lot of drag links and bearings, probably a 2 day task.

There were some tiny containers with tiny fasteners in the compartmented box.  The drag links could not be them because they are too big, aren’t they…..??

The first tiny container, contained, you guessed it, the drag links.!!  They were smaller than I remembered.

Relief!

Self disgust!

Age related loss of short term memory…..

I had to get that one off my chest.

The other thing that I wanted to mention, is a superb machining blog site.  Actually, 2 superb machining blog sites.

The first is by Joe Pieczynski, who is a Texan who makes his living from machining.  His techniques and teaching are really, very, excellent.  Aimed mainly at an audience who are beyond absolute beginners.  Do a Youtube search on “Joe Pieczynski”.  Look at his video on machining ultrathin materials.

The second, I have probably mentioned before.  An Australian  machinist, whose videos and machining techniques have to be seen to be believed.  Mainly with a clock making interest, but the techniques can be used by all of us.  For some reason I cannot cut and paste his Youtube connection, but you will find it by doing a search on “Clickspring”.  What is particularly exciting in Chris’s “Clicksping” is that he is soon to embark on remaking an Antikythera calculator.  Watch it!  You will be hooked.